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Badgaz

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Everything posted by Badgaz

  1. its alright i think i found the answer when i looked up the honeywell part.
  2. yeah its driving fine...maybe i'll just leave it...i'm a little pedantic sometimes when i don't need to be lol.
  3. hooking timing light up to ignition lead betwee coil pack 1 and spark plug. i didn't lock the timing as per the procedure on the stinger ecu but i did check that no other ign correction was being made and set the cells all around the current map point to 20 degrees.
  4. is this cause by incorrect installation of the CAS? to remedy would i best take the CAS off and move engine to TDC then re-install? i've read this can also be caused by the rubber on the crank damper slipping? or should i just leave it?
  5. ^^ lol they're mint man...go well with the krusty old engine.
  6. what are you doing with your PFC? are you changing to get rid of the AFM?
  7. someone here will have the answer, but these are my thoughts and i'm still really learning so i could be wrong but advancing the exhaust cam timing will decrease overlap and increase cylinder pressure...which would lead to more heat being generated.
  8. Umm retarding the crank angle sensor will retard ignition timing. Advancing which cam? Generally more heat is produced when mixtures are leaner.
  9. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ just read that ...pretty good read.
  10. sorry so i guess i was saying earlier that 70 is too viscous for the rb25....is that better?
  11. but thats not pouring the oil through a fixed diameter like a lifter...so surely the higher viscosity means its thicker through a given sized hole? does the oil expand with the heat also? i understood the thicker/more viscous oils at temperature don't flow so well but do provide better oil film on the surfaces?
  12. Lol stop trolling me, so i can see what you are saying it's now confused me somewhat.... But i can't type what's in my head on my phone lol
  13. oil gets thicker when its hot.... full synthetic is best. run a flush everytime you do an oil change...
  14. most of the GT30 series should be right.... you'll need to shift kit and put a higher stall in your auto. what times are you hoping for?
  15. its not for loss of cylinder pressure that you increase timing its because the time between firing events (spark) is less when rpm increases.
  16. if your vacuum has decreased then perhap more air is needed to bypass the throttle through the idle air control...have you played with that at all?
  17. yeah brick on the throttle just to keep the butterflies open. yes cams would reduce vacuum if the overlap is increased.
  18. You can get away with a fair bit when only driving the car off boost.
  19. do a boost leak test see if you can find a leak... open the throttle as well with a brick on the pedal and spray soapy water on everything ...then find bubbles. do you have idle air control valve? or is it all ditched?
  20. accurate mixture control combined with the best timing would be ideal in any situation. my rb25det runs 18degrees at 1.2bar on 98octane. where do you want the most power to be? top end of the rpm or as early as possible?
  21. whats required to wire this up?
  22. yeah i noticed that too...maybe a moderator can delete the other one.
  23. Lol ^^ saving weight is good.
  24. Thanks. far too many acronyms
  25. They are both stock cam motors, vct is only 5degrees advance on inlet right?
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