Dievos

What it means is that the car does not have any issues continuing to make more power at high rpm - this set up made as much as 368kwatw with power actually wanting to increase but was out of the knock threshold for 98 and we couldn't try more boost as the ECU MAP sensor was maxed. Boost control does not spike when it reaches full boost and the control tables are still quite basic.

Updated results, still 98octane with the updated cam trigger. Skinny red trace: Old tune low boost Skinny green trace: Old tune high boost Solid green trace: New tune low boost (10.5psi) Solid red trace: New tune high boost (21.5psi) ECU onboard MAP sensor is limiting boost.

Yep that's the one!

I also have real results of an EFR7670 on an RB26, it was within my power goals and I felt like giving it a go seeing as the resaleability of EFR turbos is good and later going with an 8374 with the same rear housing would make it a straight fit. From what I found we really had to restrict how quickly it came on due to knock, results were inconclusive as I saw power loss in the exact same RPM area as my R32 Nismo turbos. I am wanting to see how far I can go with this before jumping ship and going to a larger compressor.

Car is just about to be painted following on from some rust repairs, will be tuned on E85 after I get a bigger fuel pump in there. I should have something within the month provided the tuner is available. The IWG didn't cause any problems for me apart from the actuator bolts on the arm coming loose.. the boost control was fine there. Will likely be getting a harder spring too before the tune. Will be good to see what happens when we can add more timing down low and see how aggressive it can really come on! Sorry for the lack of updates!

This particular one is just made here locally in NZ - just as a cheaper alternative to the ross ones you usually see. CNC'd disc and a bosch sensor. $380.

Just a quick update; Trigger disc and sensor now in - just needs to be calibrated. Also doing some rust repairs and a general tidy up behind the rear windscreen seal,

There is E85 available in the North Shore now, https://gull.nz/news/gull-forrest-hill-now-open/

Could be the case, a little hesitant on calling it that as the last setup dropped off in the exact same place

It's still a bit early to say that it's a disappointing result. This is what we have also mapped. I'm still puzzled at what might be causing the drop off at 6500rpm, it doesn't look like an ignition problem judging by the trace and the boost still holds fine.

Firstly, I'll say that the results were a bit inconclusive. We had real issues with the nuts on the actuator coming loose and being a general pain to adjust midway through testing. It was a rookie mistake from me in the first place to not set the preload accurately. We ended up double nutting the actuator to secure it in place, where it ended up being set was quite low and effected the spool by a fair margin. This is what we ended up with: From here I will adjust the preload on the turbo correctly but I'm expecting it to have a massive impact on the spool. What I found interesting was how things were out of breath around 6500rpm. Can anyone here say that standard cams would be the issue here - seems odd for that to happen so early. Valvetrain getting tired perhaps? This run was done on 21psi. The green trace is was the old setup with the LeMan turbos on 1.6bar and and red trace is the EFR. Off the dyno the car feels awesome to drive and along with the baby T51R sound I rarely see myself going over 5000rpm because of the torque.

Such a tease. Guess we'll have to wait and see tomorrow...

Cheers for the words mate, 300kW+ is plenty for me and making it quickly will only make me happier. You're right - will be using 98 for the tune. Should be going on the dyno this Wednesday, excited to see what results I will get on a standard engine.

This build was primarily started to alleviate the issue of having too much lag for a street car, in 2012 I had replaced the factory twin turbos with strengthened RS581 LeMans turbos. This turned into a bit of a mistake as I found the power delivery to be very linear and the car was incredibly doughy at low RPM. At the time I was very unaware of what a responsive twin turbo RB26 should feel like and I just accepted the lag as the car was making more power. The budget of an EFR setup has been a huge obstacle for me and as the years have gone by I have finally assembled and decided what is the best combination for my needs. My power limit of 300-350kW would rule out the EFR 8374 which was what I had been setting my sights on - but being greedy for more response drove me to the 7670. I also wanted the build to be simple and less complicated which is with I went with the IWG option. The last purchase I made was for the turbo and I wanted to get straight into it - I didn't want to wait and give my money to a garage to fit everything up, it was also my first real overhaul on any car but decided to hack away at it and give it a go. Conditions were not perfect, I had to remove the twins and all the factory hoses and piping, this was done outside after work so I only had a few hours of daylight each day. Starting from the top was a good approach and everything with a nut or bolt was loosened and removed to declutter and improve morale on the task ahead.. More and more parts had to come off the car which was daunting to begin with but everything had a bag to go in so I could be reassembled without any headaches, the A/C was also completely removed while everything was off. After many short frustrating nights I finally had the twins out and could start mocking up the fitment and how everything around the turbo was going to run. Immediately I thought shaping and welding sections of intercooler pipe would be the way to go with the plumbing for the turbo. Weather kept packing in and progress was delayed so someone kindly let me in to a hangar to make up for the time lost. All the recirc and blow off valve parts were removed to rid the car of dead weight. Plenty of progress was made while I could work in here and also while removing the old recirc piping I found that it would be a perfect fit and bend for the turbo and would subsequently save me a heap of time instead of an intercooler pipe fabricated to do the same job. Knowing that the factory actuator could potentially cause problems with boost control it was swapped for a Turbosmart IWG75 twin port actuator. Turbo was off and on more times than I could count to get everything torqued down and hose lengths and the p/s reservoir lines to fit up tidily. After everything was fitted and tightened down I removed the plugs to crank the engine over and confirm the oil flow for the turbo feed. After a few cranks the new oil started coming out and could be attached to the turbo. As the blow off valves were also removed and a cap was made for the hose. It would holt 20+psi better than a WD40 cap! The downpipe posed to be one of the biggest problems as no one in my area would supply or create pre-bent 3.5" stainless tube. I had to purchase a 3.5" stainless donut from sinco to sort out the rest of the exhaust. This was an absolute nightmare to cut. More and more small parts started to become apparent to me that I'd need to finish everything off and after a bucket load of invoices and receipts I finally had everything I needed. Most of my time was spend running back and forth from the shops to find the correct fittings, hoses etc. - rookie stuff. Everything started to take shape at this stage and I was very happy on how simplified I made the engine bay. Boost control and blow off valve lines were sorted after this and the engine bay had a general refresh. No leaks were discovered and the car has since been waiting for a dyno tune.

Hey guys, just wanting to confirm the routing of the BOV vacuum line, are the old charcoal cansiter hard lines appropriate for this? I've seen a few others that look like they've done it that way - it also looks a lot tidier. Let me know if there's a better way to do it!