discopotato03

The way I look at it is that it makes a bit more grunt in factory trim so that can't be a bad thing . The electronics running it are a bit more advanced so if you can get control of those then its tighter controls IMO . I think the non hydraulic buckets are a bonus and will open up your choice of cam profiles . If you really want to I'm sure there are ways to get larger injectors into them . Also don't write off RB26's if you can get them for reasonable money , a few people have used those in the US . Further O/T . If I was over there I'd be doing a killer KA24DE-T because there are so many parts available for them and they are std (DE) in a USDM S14 anyway . I guess its a case of how much your prepared to pay to be different . I don't remember the exact cc figures for both KA24 and RB25 but there's probably only 100cc's in it if that . Cheers A .

If you have the Haltech adapter harness it sounds like your mind is made up . When looking for an engine control box you have to ask yourself what you want your engine to achieve . I believe that 90% of people who modify road registered cars want exactly that - a better road car . Many people go down the road of stand alone computers and feel all warm and gluey about the 101 extras that they can do ie NOS/ALS etc etc but how many people are seriously going to use those features - on a road registered street car ? I've used early Haltechs and an Autronic SMC , both were used on street cars and both used manifold pressure load sensing . For me personally I will never again contemplate using anything but Mass Air Flow load sensing system if there is any choice . I can't understand why anyone would because it solves so many problems and makes tuning far far easier . I'd say early in the peace people had a phobia about MAF sensors restricting inlet air flow but with a Power FC that's really not the case . Whilever you can use VH44 sensors in single apps and two in double apps it very hard to argue that they are going to restrict airflow - on a street car . Now in long period camed RB26 (please say you kept the multi throttle inlet system) its dancing with the devil to marry TPS outputs with MAP outputs - what a nightmare trying to isolate where one systems outputs goes down the toilet and the other surfaces ... With the multi throttling I reckon the MAF's wouldn't see the pressure fluctuations because the throttle plates generally dampen them so with a steady flow and signal output tuning should proceed as per normal . I don't think the hand controller bit is a valid comment because to tune any of them properly you really need a PC interface , with a PFC its often via a Datalogit kit and software . Anyhow my 2C spent and your call , cheers A .

Your call , I reckon front wheel drive turbo cars are a bit lethal especially in slipery conditions . A .

I'm not really sure of what you mean by engine bay temperature ? I would have thought that the inlet air temp was shown but this is probably not going to reflect greatly on the temp in the bay - intercooling . Have I missed something or do GTR's/PFC's do things differently to GTST's ? Yes I know about the IAT sensor . Cheers A .

Just for the record I tried switching elec fans from the radiators outlet on my daily (dinosaur Subaru L RX-T) and it doesn't work very well . I thought that sensing the radaitors outlet temperature would work but all it really did was ensure that ALL the water in the cooling system got hot . I changed over to sensing the engines water outlet temperature at the top hose and it works much better . The reason being that the fans get going as soon as the outlet temp is a little above normal and the radiator has the best chance of having a reserve of cool water for the engine should the thermostat decide to open - or open further . Your call but I'd rather have the thermostat doing the temperature regulation than the fan relays temp switching device . While I'm here people like to argue that fans running longer or even permanently make an engine run too cool . The way I see it its no different to running around in 10 deg conditions , the std thermostat will still keep the engine temperature adequate if everythings running properly . Cheers A .

Hi SLYDA , I'm interested to hear how the .68 AR housing and 3037 goes on an R33 . Just be sure to check inside the mounting flange where it should have 68 or .68 cast into it . At least one person here bought a 2835 Pro S optioned with the .68 housing and it turned out to be the .87 housing , apparently even the packing box said 0.68 A/R . Cheers A .

Well the proper HKS RB version of the GT-RS uses a port shrouded comp cover and their unique turbine housing , can sometimes make all the difference . A .

I think some confusion exists here on who's running an RB20 and who has an RB25 , the differences are significant with that 500cc's and the better 25 head . I think a mid 200's kw turbo is going to be noticably "laggier" with a 2000cc 6 because it can't make the off boost torque or generate the exhaust gas energy necessary to drive these turbos into boost without some revs going . Realistically speaking a GT2871R 52T (HKS version = GT-RS) would be more responsive on an RB20 because it has a GT28 turbine in a GT28 turbine housing . One more time now and forever , I reckon you must screw as much light load advance into an engine now wearing a higher flowing turbo as it can take because the original tune would have been limited by greater restriction and retarted timing to avoid detonation . The best engine/turbo combination in the world is gonna feel like a worn out Camry if the timing is retarded and AFR's wrong . Cheers A .

Well for my 2c woth I believe the 0.68 was intended for RB20's and 0.87's for RB25's . MadGT4 not trying to split hairs but it sounds like you may have an external gate 0.73 A/R housing with the T2/25/28 (same) flange . I've only seen two A/R sizes for the T3 flanged 2835 and 3037 Pro S turbos and they are .68 and .87 . Cheers A .

These are not a "28" series turbo regardless of what HKS calls them . The proper name is GT3071R 56T , the turbine may be cropped but it didn't start out as a GT28 turbine . A .

Not criticising anyones pipes , I like the idea of a dump pipe that bolts to the engine pipe because with the 3 bolts/nuts removed you could very likely lift the turbo and dump pipe out as an assembly . These Hitachi turbos are pretty tight around the dump fasteners and it would make life easy to fit and remove them on the bench . Once the turbo/dump is on the engine fitting the engine pipe up should be same as std . Just my thoughts , cheers A .

The people I talked to about this said go the 0.87 housing on an RB25DET , its supposed to spool not much higher than std though it'd need to be tuned properly . Also I'd be doing something very soon with the cat because the compliance type are not exactly a free flowing item . It would be a shame to fit a 3000+ kit and choke it up with exhaust restrictions . Someone here supplied me with a direct fit 3" Catco and the difference was quite noticeable - and that's with a std turbo and a quiet Nismo exhaust . Also it may pay you to ask around and see what people think about the 3037 Pro S with a 0.68 A/R turbine housing . I haven't found anyone using this combination on an R33 but their feedback would tell you if it was a little laggy or not . A bit of homework pays off , cheers A .

Bolt on style 2530 or Garrett marketed equal , surely these must come up 2nd hand from time to time . Don't forget its a lot of work to R&R turbos in a GTR so ideally something practical first up I reckon .

Shoot me if this is OT but it is related . Where you can make some gain is attempting to get a bit more low speed low/no boost torque . Easy mods can be better/best filter elements and free flowing exhaust systems . On bog stock cars going up a level of SMIC can't hurt ie R33 or R34 SMIC on R32's . When you can control fueling and timing (ie PFC) it can be optimised around best part throttle torque . With the turbos themselves if you had to use a bog stock one maybe a little smoothing in the housings but the gains are probably small . Twin scroll systems are very dooable but mostly very expensive . Trying to find a TS turbine housing that is IW is virtually impossible to suit the std manifold ATM . I've been getting interested in Evo Lancers and even wonder if their std TS turbos (or Hi Flow versions) could be grafted onto an RB 6 . The problems are that those turbos are reverse rotation and use a unique mounting flange , they are also plain bearing which goes against the grain . I'd be trying the easy things first and screwing as much light load advance into your car as you possibly can . Cheers A .

Generally speaking by making the head breathe properly without losing trapping efficiency . I believe its a juggle between making some power pre boost and taking as much advantage as possible from the exhaust gasses pulse velocity energy . It sounds silly but I think you need to seperate throttle/torque response from turbo boost response here . How you go about getting torque is tied to static and dynamic compression ratio and how boost pressure/turbine and housing restriction affects these two . First things first what exactly are you trying to achieve and over what rev range ? I sort of get the feeling that the RB26's power characteristics don't suit you and you'd prefer it to pull hard without reving it .

Off the shelf from Garrett it doesn't exist . The only ones I've seen pics from are in the US and they use Garrett T04 turbine housings . Geoff Raicer sells a Turbonetics Twin Scroll version which is based on a larger cartridge than Garretts GT3582R . Which manifold do you have ? Cheers A .

No question if it was mine , Discopotato Turbo in 0.86 A/R turbine housing size . GTiR exhaust manifold if you can make it fit and GTiR quad throttle induction if using the early high inlet port head . No going to write/type an epic this time , its just what I'd do . Cheers .

Yes , IHI RHB52 as fitted standard to Subarus 1800 EA82 turbo found in L Series RX Turbos and turbo Vortex's . The give away is the plain fronted comp cover with the two threaded bosses . The 90 deg elbow bolts on and seals with from memory a gasket . Also the mounting flange is longer to that hole out on its own but this aside same as single scroll EJ turbo flange wise . They really are quite small and go back at least as far as 85 so hardly a modern design . Cheers A .

GT2530 or GT2860RS .

IMO if this workshop is worth their salt they will get a burette and cc the chambers first up . I think it would be highly irresponsible to build a customers engine with aftermarket pistons and not be certain what the static compression ratio was going to be . Just for the record I'm sure many here would like to KNOW for certain if R33 and R34 chambers are same or different volume . It sounds like some are guessing without knowing for sure . Cheers A .

Hi all , just out of curiosity what injector/rail options do you have with these (or the original Jap Gready) manifolds . Basically can the R33's side feed squirters be used with their std rail ? Cheers A .

Hi all , some time ago I posted a pic or two of a HKS GT3037 52T turbos ID tag . I can't find it here so if anyone took a copy or knows where it is can you let me know . Cheers A .

Yes entertaining Roy , it does show what happens with more power than traction . You mentioned that it uses a 6Boost manifold and a GT3582R . I think Roys idea of improving the std engine is a better one given the costs involved . Its nice to have the RB26's features but its the way to go broke method for a bit of shove in a road car . RB25's can be good things but they do need head work and mild cams . The std turbo will only go so far so HKS's GT Pro turbos probably make the best use of the std exhaust manifold and in kit form go bolt . The trouble with exotic bits is that they are expensive and need a fair bit of customisation to fit up . The more factory engineering you can get away with the better off you are cost wise . Also its only my opinion but I think the 400 odd ponies would drive a bit better with a GT3076R/GT3037 than a GT3582R , the turbine housings (Garretts anyway) look very similar and in mid A/R size I tend to think the torque delivery would follow the hoof a bit closer . My gut feeling is that the GT3037 Pro S in 0.87 A/R could go close enough to the red cars performance (with similar engine mods) the major difference being the exhaust manifold . You'd think it would pull up earlier and get to the wheel spin point a bit lower down the rev range - where with tuning you should be able to get it to the traction loss point and limit things to limit wheel spin . To me its a case of using 3/4 of the 3037's capacity rather than 2/3 of the 3582R's . My vote goes to improving what you have , sometimes we all have to remember that having a budget doesn't necessarily mean using it all . Another 2c spent , cheers A .

Its called overcapitalisation gone wild . Side draught carbs - spare me . I reckon I could have got fuel to from the carburettors for 1/20th of what he spent . Also note the mesh "strainers" inside the ram tubes . Don't flow and only keep the nuts and bolts out . Nooo thank you .....

Look honestly people , I don't want a he said/she said war in here . The facts of the matter are that yes the compressor on a GT2871R 52T is more than capable of churning enough air to make 400+ Hp . The turbine in a large A/R turbine housing may get close but I think its not very likely that any ones gonna get 400 Hp's worth of exhaust gas flow through a 0.64 A/R GT28 turbine housing . Next time you look at one of these housings shine a light down through its mounting flange and have a look at its internal passage . Now if you could get the 0.86 A/R version of the GT28 turbine housing and fit it you could be in with a fighting chance , problem is that neither Garrett or HKS make such a housing in T3 mount flange so its a problem . This is one instance where a four cylinder like an SR20 is a bit better off . As I've mentioned before someone here has a hybrid GT2871R 48T I think in bored out (re-profiled) R33 RB25 type turbine and compressor housings . Actually the turbine housing may have been the larger VG30 BB OP6 type . Its going to come down to what you can afford to spend and how much power/what kind of power delivery you can live with . If money is an issue then maybe look into a Garrett cartridge and RB25 housings , some turbo places have these housings from dead turbos and can make something up for you . Fred at Turbologic in Port Kembla (Wollongong area) is good at what he does so worth a call - just don't go wasting his time if not really serious . Turbo wise if you choose to go this way its worth chasing up that OP6 turbine housing to have one in hand . This is possibly the easiest way to get a larger turbine housing on a GT28 turbine based turbo and have it easily fit an RB25's std manifold and dump pipe . Turbine housings and waste gates - always the largest stumbling blocks . Mostly if you can solve these issues the rest is pretty straightforward , also don't use the largest trim compressors available because they are a significant part of the turbo (turbine) lag equation . Another 2c spent , cheers A .