discopotato03

Well your call , I'd say a GT2835 Pro S with the .87 A/R turbine housing would be my choice . The cost would be higher but IMO its a better turbo for an R33 RB25DET . Users of these say that they're running out of puff at ~ 270+ Kw and response is quite good . I defy anyone to make the claimed 400 Hp from a GT-RS (2871R 52T) especially with the only available 0.64 A/R GT28 turbine housing . Just my opinions , cheers A .

Well I think its high time the PFC and boost kit went in . LOL I can already HEAR Gary laughing at me but I promise fitting the PFC doesn't hurt a bit . A couple of screws , 1 bolt and in she plugs . Its very simple to fit the boost control kit with the hardest bit slitting the gromet to get its loom through to the computer . I followed someone elses idea and cable tied the map sensor to the std boost gauge sensors bracket . T'd into its vac line . I think the solenoid may be cable tied to the std ones bracket as well - can't remember . Since you are in the land of the flightless bird I suggest you get the datalogit kit and use it to tune the thing . I also strongly suggest you get some form of wide band 02 sensing devise like a Tech Edge so you know whats going on . It used to be possible to get those in electronic kit form and build them yourself . I think you need to do some sums and work out what the gear costs and think about doing some of the tuning yourself . This is what I intended to do before the daily driver turned into a project as well ... Cheers A .

Yes what he said . IMO GT28 turbine based turbos are really a bit small for 2.5L and up . The only people who tried to do them properly were HKS and the premium you pay is for unique application specific housings to make the generic Garrett cartridge work properly . The next size turbine is from the GT30 family and as mentioned comes in cropped and std sizes . Garrett don't make T3 flanged turbine housings for that either , HKS make them for their cropped turbine version and call it the GT2835 Pro S . Garrett do make T3 flanged GT30 integral gate turbine housings in 63/82/106 A/R sizes . Cheers A .

There is no possible way to answer that one , it would all depend on how you drove it . Can you be certain that you wouldn't give it a bootfull and not hear it pinging ? To be as safe as possible I suppose you could disconnect the waste gates actuator arm from the gates linkage or just remove the actuator completly . If the gate blows open as it will if theres nothing to stop it the turbo shouldn't boost at all you'd think . Ideally your next purchase be needs to be a PFC because there's no reason why it couldn't run your engine with the 3037 Pro S . You would have enough scope to make it fuel cut if it over boosted and retard the ignition if it detonated . If you ask nicely a few people here may be able to give you maps to make it run acceptably before the Z32 and larger injectors are fitted . Too late now I know but I generally suggest people make the turbo the last upgrade after PFC/pump/injectors etc . I believe most of the fun is learning how to make it go along the way . Doing it like this also means that you can make the mods go only as far as you need to get the required results . My 2c spent , cheers A .

On Sydneykids advise I got a Pipercross element from Faber Industries / Midel in Greenacre for My R33 GTST . I don't think it was a fluke that my std boost gauge rises to atmospheric faster with this element than the one it replaced which looked to be in good order . I've no idea what element GTR air boxes use but if there's a Pipercross one made for it thats what I'd use . Cheers A .

Hi all , I don't have a price figure but I suspect it would be quite a few thousand . They are based around the GT25 BB centre section so cartridge wise I don't think it would be real difficult to use the turbine/bearing cartridge and compressor wheel in the production bearing housing . Once you do this current GT30 turbine housings fit the hot side and the adapter ring/backplate/compressor housing fit the cold side . Production housings (both) would need to be profiled to suit the different wheels but thats not a biggie - for Garrett or the aftermarket . Competition turbos like these often have V band fasteners because it makes them quick to remove at service intervals during an event . The high tech materials used make them light and also high temp resistant . The rally people I speak to reckon its common practise to dump a bucket of water over these things to be able to get at them after hard use . Most of us roadies don't need this kind of durability so the production turbos use more affordable materials . Restrictors , yes and thats much of the reason that a lot of development went into these turbos . Its a big ask to make a lot of torque from a 2L four that runs out of puff at ~ 5200-5500 because of the air restrictor . The anti lags systems do help initially but that creates an extremely harsh environment for the turbo to cope with heat wise . Cheers A .

Garrett are saying that they will release the TR30R turbochargers for sale to anyone with the bucks . I would not expect everyone to rush out and buy a turbo with inconel and magnesium housings as well as the CNC machined from billet compressor wheels . Very deep into ouch territory . All the vulture at Planet Potato cares about is that we may at last be able to get our sticky hands on that yummy 60mm NS111 turbine that TR30R's have in either 76 or 73 trims . This is the missing link in the currently laggy GT30XXR saga and together with the billet wheels (cast for general use) could make for turbos with little lag and strong mid range torque . Ever noticed how you mostly see power graphs of turbo engines where the Hp numbers are higher than the torque figures in foot pounds ? The good news is that in the recent past any way WRC power figures seemed to float around 300+ horsepower and 460+ ft pounds of torque . Wouldn't that be a hoot in your Skyline ? Cheers A .

Slyda I'm not so sure that the smaller 0.68 A/R version is a "screw up" , don't forget that these turbos can bolt onto an RB20DET as well . The Garrett/HKS GT3037/GT3076R cartridge is not exactly small and to get it going early requires reasonably small (small side of medium actually) A/R turbine housings . Its interesting that HKS chose this 0.68 A/R size for the smaller of the two integral gate or Pro S type turbine housings . In external gate type HKS chose 0.61 and 0.73 as the lower end of five optional GT30 turbine housing sizes ie 61/73/87/1.01 and 1.12 A/R's . I think its a pity that the smaller Pro S housing wasn't 0.73 A/R because its a size that works well on 2L fours . It probably comes down to the fact that engines with small pots like RB20's take a few more revs (greater exhaust gas velocity) to get a turbo going with med to large turbine housings so the RB20 would have been a bit short changed . I also suspect that in the R32 era lots of petrol heads dreamed of GTR's but the money only stretched to GTST's so the aftermarket had to cater for what people drove . Anyhow a 0.73 size would have been better IMO on RB25's , users could have got a bit more from 2835's and 3037's before needing a larger rear housing . HKS should have also offered smaller compressor trims which they do sell with non integral gate turbos . Both the 2835 and 3037 are made with 48/52/56 trim compressors but only sold in 56 comp trim form for Pro S turbos . Generally the smaller trim compressors work better with the smaller A/R turbine housings IMO , its the way to balance compressor speed against airflow and turbine power requirement and exhaust manifold pressure . The thing is not everyone wants 440 Hp from a 2835 or 540 from a 3037 so the aftermarket has to make what they think people will be happy with and minimise their own inventory . To alter (lower) compressor trim size you need the compressor wheel itself and a compressor housing because it will naturally be smaller to suit the wheels smaller inducer size . Garrett don't supply spare wheels - they want to bite you for a complete cartridge if you use yours up or force you towards HKS for their unique sizes . However these wheels have been used in some other Garrett turbos say with other turbines and it can be easier to change the turbine and get what you want that way . An example may be that you want a Garrett GT3071R in 52 comp trim but can't buy it in that form . No prob , you buy a GT2871R in 52 trim and fit a GT30 turbine to it . Can get the 48T comp this way as well . Some dealers will mix and match new parts to get you what you want straight up . You would have to expect to go through someone that moves lots of turbos and regularly goes inside them for rebuilds and customization . You would not expect a small dealer to make you a bitzer turbo from two and only charge for one - they gotta eat too . I would also not expect to pay rock bottom prices for one offs and if it cost RRP so be it . Still probably cheaper than a complete HKS unit . Where the buck stops is should you go ahead and do this and it doesn't meet with expectation don't expect anyone to take the fall because its your non std combination . I think by the sounds of things most are fairly happy with a 2835 Pro S 0.87 A/R on an R33 RB25 , I'm told they pull from a tad higher than std and run out at around 280+ Kw . Different people think differently but I think thats pretty good from a bolt on kit (+ fuel/ECU/IC/exhaust) and more than enough for a road registered R33 realistically . With a bit of headwork and cams a bit over 300 Kw would not be unreasonable . Cheers A .

First things first , I'm not sure if Nissan had a turbo version of that engine actually I think not . If it were me I'd think strongly about the GT2860RS or DP turbo for the following reasons . Firstly its a high compression NA engine so it it should make reasonable torque at very low revs and not need boost right down low . Secondly IF you want to have a fighting chance of beating detonation you NEED low exhaust restriction at the bottom end of the usable rev range where you would expect to have a high CR turbo converted engine knock . Thirdly Id only use the larger 0.86 A/R turbine housing which this turbo was expressly designed to work properly with . Since you will probably have to have an exhaust manifold fabricated you get to choose which turbo mount flange it has . Its been quite a while since I've been there but you should find lots of info at American sites like SE/R Forums - Sentra SE/R's being their equivalent of our Nissan Pulsar SSS's . They were playing with hotted up and turbo versions of the QR25DE (I think its called QR25 ?) which is the 2.4L four they get in the I think N16 Sentra/Pulsar . I think we got that engine in the Nissan softonroader 4WD thing - name escapes me ATM . I probably shouldn't ask but whats the plan with engine management ? Had the car been an N15 I would have suggested a CA18DET or GA16DE turbo conversion which I think the Americans do . Also should probably do a search on Jim Wolf Technology (JWT) as they do cams and computer mods for some of those front drive Nissans . Lastly the bit you won't want to hear . I would not go down this road with an N16 Pulsar because of what they cost and how much money needs to be spent to do it properly . Front wheel drive turbo cars are an abonimation IMO because when the torque rises rapidly they wheelspin and torque steer when you least need it - like entering a bend with a B Double truck going the other way . In the wet they are lethal because you have no way of knowing if its going to go where you "aim" it . I think if the all mighty intended front wheel drive cars to have turbo torque he would have backed it up with rear wheel drive - AWD . Even then a huge amount of development has been undertaken since cars like the Jenson FF 4WD and the all conquering (in its day on the dirt) Audi Quatro first turned a wheel . I think your going to find that Pulsars have fairly basic suspension and brakes and they won't cope too well . If you really want a turbo performance car I think you need to start with something a bit more appropriate . Sorry if I'm bursting you bubble but on the flip side I may be saving you a lot of money . Your money your call , cheers Adrian .

From a dollars and cents point of view often the relivant series R32/3/4 GTR pumps can be good . I'd be asking if R33 or R34 GTR pumps fall in and go that way for a mild upgrade . Given a choice I would prefer slightly larger injectors over higher fuel rail pressure but it naturally costs more . The flow on benefit (yeh I know) is that at the std fuel rail pressure the pump should be able to keep its volume capacity up a little longer . The Bosch 044 pump moves a lot of fuel at low pressures and you can at times have fuel temperature issues because so much fuel is doing circuits from the tank and back . Could be a case of too much overkill . Cheers A .

The terminology stems from the pre ball bearing turbos like T2's and T25's and T28's . It was sort of hard in the BB era because early on they were mostly called GT25XXR turbos ie GT2530R or GT2540R etc . The small BB centre section is also commonly known as the GT25 BB centre section . Most of Garretts turbo families are based on their turbine series (by name) , from what I've seen Garrett developed the T2 series which later grew slightly larger diametre turbines and compressors (T25) and larger pairs again for the T28's . They went this way to make more compact/lighter turbos than the T3 series . You could look at a T28 as a turbo with larger diameter wheels than a T25 and a good example of this is the GTiR's turbo . When Garrett started making the BB version of the basic T2 centre section they used what looks like a BB shaft version of the basic 11 bladed T25 turbine and either 54 or 60mm diametre compressors on the other end . They also developed the high performance 54mm NS111 turbine and used these with 60mm compressors in turbos like the GT2530 . As time went by Garrett decided to call this turbine and 60mm compressor combination "GT2860R" or "GT2860RS" in one case because the RS ment BB modified or altered spec in that case . Really the names or descriptions are all over the place , you really need to know which turbine and compressor spec combinations you want to use and then hunt up the part number . This is not as hard as it may sound , aside from a TT engine like an RB26 that may need super responsive turbos I think the high performance NS111 turbine is way to go . It has less blades and is of a more open paddle bladed design with high inducer tips . Its what you get in GT2530/GT2860RS/GT2871R . HKS's GT-RS is just anothe name for a housing change on a GT2871R 52 comp trim cartridge . All this aside you need to work out which flange size the turbine housing has because most are T2/25/28 (same) and a small number from HKS have the T3 mount flange size which you would need for an RB20/25 . Off the shelf a GT2530 or a GT-RS (2871R 52T) are practical things on RB25's depending on what power/response you want . Its a shame Garrett didn't make T3 flanged turbine housings for this series because it would make life a lot easier for those needing GT25/28 turbos for Skylines . HKS saw a market and catered for it . Cheers A .

RaZ to my way of thinking its more ignition timing to suit the engine not the turbo . Generally when the factory specs small turbos for small capacity engines the gas passages have to be smallish to get enough gas speed into the turbine to spin it (and the compressor wheel) fast enough to make positive pressure - boost . Small capacity engines , particularly low compression ratio ones , don't make much torque off boost so its more important to get boost happening sooner than a larger capacity engine would need . The down side is that small passages become a restriction high up the rev range especially when the boost is greater than std . The factory knows this and tunes the computer around the amount of advance the std engine can take without detonation . Knock sensors and smart electronics try to keep it just under the detonation threshold for variables such as fuel octane and inlet temp etc . Once you start to "uncork" the hot side the std computer doesn't know to compensate and ramp up the ignition timing . It'll probably feel flat because the larger turbo passages and wheels have less restriction to exhaust flow meaning later onset of boost - turbo response is directly related to gas speed through its turbine blades and in this case the required gas speed will occur at higher revs . When you can advance the ignition timing to its best torque point its firing the mixture at the most opportune time for the available cylinder pressure to do the most good - not just to suit emission or anti detonation requirements . Bush/plate turbo bearings . Unfortunately a bit crude by todays standards and only still with us for costing reasons - arguably . For a pair of bushes to support a shaft there needs to be a fair area in contact to do the job properly . The shaft actually floats on a layer of oil and its this oil shear drag that slows the rate of acceleration of the turbine/compressor group . The plate thrust bearing system also has the same problem only because its diametre is greater than the turbine shaft it has greater surface speed and they fail easily under highb shaft speeds and thrust loads . Hardened steel ball bearings are a quantam leap because they have far less friction , only point contact between the balls and their races AND much much better thrust support . Annular contact BB's support radially and each support thrust loads in opposite directions so its all good . The better BB turbo use open bladed light weight high speed wheels so less innertia to over come and are much more compact for similar gas flow rates than the old dinosaurs . So if you've gone to a larger turbo with bush bearings its natural to expect it to be laggy all else being equal . I ah think a std RB25 turbo may have been a better first step given that they are reasonably cheap if you shop around and they bolt up with minor alterations . Cheers A .

If you must have 600 Hp then yes the GT3582R is a good off the shelf choice . Personally I think a GT3076R which is capable of around 500 on a very well developed engine is worth strong consideration . At these levels don't forget to factor in drivline strength and sorry for being sarcastic but I think spiritual intervention is gonna be required to get this power to the ground through two wheels . It may be ok for a hub dyno but cronic wheelspin gets you nowhere . Seriously you need 4WD and an RB26 to do it properly . My thoughts only , cheers A .

Common problem . What happens is that the engine can now breathe out more easily and will improve its combustion efficiency via better scavanging . I'd be looking at ways to increase its light load ignition advance whilst maintaining appropriate AFR's . I went from an RB20 BB turbo to the GT2860Rs on the old FJ20 2L 4 and the extra timing that it could then take was amazing , so were the results . Cheers , A .

Numerous housing and plumbing bits unique to RB26TT . The dead give away is thats its bolted to a 3 branch exhaust manifold and since I don't think Nissan did a three cylinder turbo its got to be half a twin turbo 6 cylinder pair . Cheers A .

Thanks all , cheers A .

Hi all , sorry not a Nissan question but can't find Aus Evo sites and out of time . Thanks in advance , Adrian .

Your engine should now be able to take a fair bit more ignition advance and that tends to improve bottom end torque and often the turbos boost threshold . I'm told that a properly designed split dump pipe also helps with those Hitachi integral gate exhaust housings . I think a tune session is whats needed and if you still don't like it then use the RB25 housing . Cheers A .

Short version . There are three very similar spec Garrett "GT2860R" turbos , cartridges actually and its mainly the compressor and housing specs that differ . The one everyone knows is the HKS spec Garrett "GT2530" . These can have turbine housings to be bolt ons for RB26 / CA18-SR20 / RB20-25 . The compressor is 60.1mm 63 trim with 47.7mm inducer . The compressor wheel is believed to be a modified T3 and given the era they were developed it that may well be the case . Another little gem is the GT2860RS AKA GT28RS or the Disco Potato Turbo . Cartridge wise same as above except its compressor is a 60.1mm 62T wheel and looks to be along more modern lines than the 63T one mentioned above . The -5 mentioned before is very similar to the GT2860RS , same 60.1mm compressor OD trim and ~ same inducer size . The difference is the exducers tip height which is not as high as the GT2860RS' compressor wheel . I've only ever seen the -5 version with RB26 specific housings and with the slightly less tip height I think this would better suit the more compact RB26 style compressor housings . People seem to want to argue the toss but the GT2860RS was designed to be responsive for a GT28BB turbo used on an 1800-2000 cc four in club spec motor sport . This is why it has large housings for a GT28BB ie 0.86 A/R GT28 turbine housing and the T04B 0.60 A/R compressor housing . Its compressor has a reasonably large trim size and its high tip height blades means the collector in its housing has to be wider too . So small frame turbo with best GT28 turbine and high pumping capacity compressor - in largish A/R housings . The SR20 people often claim they are laggy for a GT2860 turbo and fit the smaller 0.64 A/R turbine housing to pull up lower end torque . Some of you may think this sounds harsh but I think they need to alter their thinking of how to get an engine to breathe and spin and make torque without small turbine housings . Anyhow so you can ID them on sight . GT2530 CHRA no 446172-5021 . GT2860RS CHRA no 446179-5066 . 2860-5 CHRA no 446179-5056 . There has only ever been one version of any of these that bolts onto an RB20/25 and thats the HKS RB specific GT2530 . The others have GT28 (T28) flanged turbine housings and no one would use the compact RB26 style GT28 housing on anything but a GTR TT engine . Aftermarket and bored out std Rb20/25 turbine housings are a grey area because they arguably have not been developed in this form with the resources Garrett has available have had they decided to make a T3 flanged GT28 turbine housing . Thats not to say they won't work just maybe not as well as they possibly could . I do know of some respected engineers at Garrett America who could have cheerfully strangled HKS for not offering that T3 flanged 0.64 GT turbine housing in 0.86 A/R as well . Silly really because a bit more power could have been screwed out of 2530's on RB25's without choking them up in the upper mid range . One of the fellas here made a Hi Flow out of a GT2871R 48 trim and RB25 housings , he sounded pretty chuffed with the results . You should talk to him as its always better to follow someone elses example when the results are good . There is always risks involved with one off turbos - if it doesn't work no one else wants it and you've done your dough . I keep a VG30DET BB turbo here because one day I may just need its larger A/R OP6 turbine housing , I sort of hate the idea of having it altered because they're now harder to find . If it was bored out to suit anything it would be that high performance GT28 NS111 turbine because going any bigger roots the housings nozzle . I'd sacrifice an Rb25 housing first and only go larger if it really needed it . Talk to Dale about the 2871/RB Hi Flow , cheers A . PS think smart and don't bend self and or car in the festive season .

VLT , XR6T , I think some earlier Vovo T .

Neither , RB30E cheaper and not really any weaker . If your up for aftermarket RB rods and pistons I'd start with an RB30 . Being a "Mk 1" block ie non VCT its very easy to bolt the RB 26 top end on it . Do the rest as per RB26 and have the bottom end with .... bottom end . For the money I'd do the crank collar just because . Cheers A .

I'm in two minds about the return to the bottom radiator hose . If you can get the header tank/swirlpot high enough above the radiators top tank it may not be necessary . You'd just have to be sure that all the bleeds went ito the header tank down low . Those pics show some up high but I don't think its necessary because bubbles nearly always rise through fluid if its still or slow moving . If this is all about preventing steam traps with high mounted turbos then some value in a high mount manifold has to be not sitting the turbo any higher than absolutely necessary IMO . Cheers A .

Just in case you had the second stage boost always mod , disable it .

The std RB25 turbo is a bit restrictive on the exhaust side so going to a GT28 BB based turbo will open it up some . I'd imagine the std computer is not giving it enough innitial light load ignition advance and thats making it feel a bit flat . To have full control of fueling and ignition timimg you really need a programmable computer eg a PFC to take advantage of that turbos capabilities . I think exhaust/computer first is the best upgrade path because you can make the most of your engines spec at each stage . Cheers A .

Lithium I think you'll find that people with RB26's just accept the fact that in the early factory state of tune theres not a lot of poke low down anyway so what they don't have they don't miss . Its probably no issue to make a GT3582R "spool up" in the mid upper 3000s rev range so they most likely go for a turbo that can make serious power starting somewhere about where the std twins do . I really don't see a problem using a GT3076R on an RB26 - other than you lose the twin turbine housings (twin nozzles) and split exhaust system . Very OT but by the time you fork out for another manifold/gate/dump/lines you may have spent enough to buy direct fit turbos like GT-SS's or the Garrett equivalent . RB25's are definately in a lower state of tune than RB26's and thats because they are the toned down less expensive to manufacture ROAD car edition . Nissan obviously wanted the sort of power delivery characteristics that most people could live with on a daily basis in suburbia . The obvious internal differences are the higher static compression ratio and the single throttle plenum style inlet manifold which would be easier to manage than the multiple ones because they can pass a lot of air even when only just open . The VCT must do positive things as well . Putting around with an RB25 probably gives better MPG and thats not insignificant to some people . Possibly not as OT but if you ever looked at twin HKS spec 2835's and 3037's on RB26's the compressor trims tend to drop from 56 to 52 because they are struggling to get them going to start with . Extreme drag set ups and personally I reckon you'd have rocks in your head to do such a thing to a road registered car . HKS could and SHOULD have offered smaller comp trim options in both Pro S turbos - I'd say the max power potential numbers got in the way and looked limp in the hero stakes . If turbos were marketed around torque delivery rather than PS or Kw I think the situation would be different . Cheers A .