discopotato03

I have a set of 4 silver (aluminium) rims in 4 x 114.3 and 16 x 7 and they fit over DR30 brakes fine . Pics later , cheers A .

Should have some pics up over the weekend , cave getting a clean out . Cheers A .

The one I mean uses a 40 trim T04E compressor and 50 A/R T04E compressor housing . The turbine housing is integral gate , 58 A/R and V band outlet . The stumbling block is using large trim T04E compressors on these crossbreed turbos , no way a T3 (small series like we have in Australia) can properly drive them . They create lag down low and the small turbine/housings create restriction not long after the thing gets going . The smaller trim one like this (pics) has airflow more in step with the exhaust gas flow which is how turbos are supposed to be . Cheers A .

IMO the only "T3/T04E" - actually TA34 in Garrett speak worth having is one called a TA34-1 , do a search . Is supposed to work reasonably well on an RB20 . T3 flanged , .58 turbine housing and I think a 37 or 40 trim T04E compressor . Cheers A .

A late Intercooled type FJ20ET engine with 500cc injectors , a set of DR30 Inlet manifolds - early and late because plenum volume changed for the small or .48 A/R turbo intercooled version , set of S12 turbo manifolds , set of DR30 front struts and brakes , set of 4 16x7 4 stud wheels , std early turbo computer loom AFM + late intercooled ECU (+ injector dropping resistor and idle/EGR pulse solenoids) , pair of S12 engine mount brackets , Koyo R32 GTR radiator , uncommon 60 deg thermostat housing , FJ20ET box modded with RB20DET internals (needs baulk rings) , 3 button Foramic sprung centre clutch , R200 LSD - been opened and has a full set of plates , preload is ~ 60lbs , 1001 nuts/bolts/washers . Also JDM Z18 Turbo Bluebird cross member (and power rack pump/lines) modded to suit FJ20ET . Also a set of DR30 elec cooling fans . I'd rather have the space so any reasonable offers accepted . This was all the legacy of 10 years of building a S1 TRX Bluebird that had the complete late DR30RS drive line grafted in . Cheers all , Adrian . PS No R200 halfshafts , Big D got those and the A arms though I have one spare . Also may have a DR30 R200 rear diff mount bar , have to look .

Disk and drum IRS R30 rear ends are different , different angles used betwen the cross member and the semi trailing arms . Must use a complete set or the toe/camber angles get all screwed up . The rear diff mount for an R200 is different too , the crownwheel being larger in diametre dictates that the rear cover must extend out further and the mount bolts (studs and nuts from memory) onto the rear of this cover . There are minor differences to how the outer cables mount to the DR30s rear calipers as well . Also different calipers , longer legs on the fixed portion and larger diametre pistons in the floating section . I have a set of DR30 rear brakes if needed . Cheers , Adrian .

You'd have to check with FP what the ID numbers of their cartridge is . Off the top of my head HKS GT3037 and GT3037S unit numbers are 700382-10 and -11 , the cartridge number is 700177-5006 . The actual compressor wheel is a GT37 BCI-18C in 52 trim . Hi Cubes , I lost another long post to cyber space and don't have another hour to type it out . Long story short , my list shows the base model GT3037 sold in 48 or 52 or 56 compressor trim . They come with 0.61 , 0.73 and 0.87 A/R turbine housings meaning a matching set ie 48T-0.61 , 52T-0.73 , 56T-0.87 . Makes sense if you think about rising compressor capacity with greater turbine housing flow capacity . Rated at 420 , 440 , 470 PS . The GT3037S . These were only sold in 52 and 56 comp trims and with large A/R turbine housings , 52T-1.01 and 56T-1.12 . Obviously higher gas flow options where low end power/torque was not a concern . The S version also gets the 100mm inlet with the ported shroud where the base version has the plain or normal 70mm T04E inlet boss . Rated at 450 and 480 PS . These are all fitted with a special HKS GT30 turbine housing thats a hybrid because it has the T25/T28 mounting flange and HKS's slightly smaller GT30 outlet . They don't intent you to fit these to a T3 flanged manifold - Japan being the land of the rising bolt on . They reserved the GT3037 Pro S (sometimes called GT Pro) for the RB20/25DET application . They have either a .68 or .87 A/R integral gate T3 flanged turbine housing with its unique outlet flange style . I think they're probably the best single scroll integral gate housing I've seen to date for GT30 turbine based turbos within their A/R ratio limits . HKS has sold their turbine housings separately so they have no control over who bolts which housing to which turbo . One downside with the 3037 Pro S is that they only sold them in the 3037's largest compressor trim so for some they can get a littly laggy with no gains if the top end airflow is not needed . So Cubes I think you can see that using HKS's smallest ratio turbine housing (0.61) with the largest trim compressor option could very likely have issues . The 48T/0.61 or 52T/0.73 combinations would have been a bit less lightswitch and more user friendly I reckon . In my narrow opinion I think the future is much more mid range punch rather than moonshot revs to develop the power so HKS could do worse to go a little larger in turbine housing A/R with the smaller trim compressors . Time will tell , cheers A .

Hi Cubes , I went through all sorts of contortions years ago trying to solve the FJ20ET in Bluebird cooling issues . What you will notice with some OEM water thermostats is that they seal properly when closed on an O ring type seat . Aftermarket thermostats often don't have this and are relying on a metal to metal seal . The easy way to see if they seal is to put your mouth over the top of it and try to blow through it . If its airtight it should regulate ok . If your breath flows through it then don't use it because it won't close up . That little jiggler valve is there to let air out when you fill up an empty cooling system , the little ball tit thing closes so that it doesn't flow any appreciable amount of water but will let air escape in the system to help prevent air locks . I don't like drilling holes through thermostats because this then lets water flow through the radiator and that extends warm up times . I don't agree with this need to let a little through all the time idea , if the thermostat sticks shut the extra hole won't prevent the engine overheating because it won't pass enough water . If a thermostat won't seal shut then it can't regulate water temperature its a simple as that . If it leaks then temperature will be dependent on how much water gets through and how much and what temperature the air is running through the rad core . If I had my way engines would have two thermostats , one high temp one to get the heat into the oil sooner and another to run the system at a more appropriate temperature the rest of the time . Who knows , maybe one day we'll have an ECU controlled valve that opens to use a cooler thermostat under high loads and reverts to the higher one for light loads and in theory better fuel consumption . An oil temp sensor could tell the ECU when its cool or a little too toasty as well . See ya , cheers A .

As with all aftermarket computers the greatest dramas are usually the CAS interface and the software . I have used earlier versions of Haltech and Autronic and I found the Autronic software to be better . Not because pretty bar graphs were more user friendly but because air temperature/density compensation was more appropriate . Before EFI Technology (Haltech) moved I used to drop in and get their blurb sheets and occasionally talk to them about connectivity to various OEM sensors . Their later ECU's were getting to the point of talking directly to Nissan 360 degree optical sensors (CAS) but the box had to have enough processing power and input/outputs to sequentially drive 6 coils and 6 injectors . From past experience I liked Haltech because it was originally based around GM/Delco sensors which are (were anyway) cheap and plentiful because of the sheer volume of Commode Doors and Camiras . Actually getting the Haltech to talk to the engines sensors was usually pretty easy though they were not as concerned as I was/am about the benefits of sequential injection . The Autronic SMC software I used did a far better job because you had all sorts of options such as charge temperature compensation from either water or air temp and once I got my head around the compensation from air temp bit and some sound advise from Allen Engineering In Mallala it worked really well . That was much of the secret to making a cold engine start/run/warm up perfectly every time . Its also the thing that makes a huge difference to timing compensation on load because charge temperature can be a lot of the reason why engines detonate . If you can be a little behind the detonation threshold and know the computer can be tuned to be safe but not overly retarded its about as good as it gets for a MAP based system - without knock sensor feedback that is . BTW if you ever saw pics of Allen Engineerings dynocell you would have noticed a MAF or hotwire sensor being used to log airflow as part of the tuning process . That alone says it all about MAP sensors for me . Hope this helps be research current systems/software , cheers A .

I would ring Aron up and tell him or show him pics of the thing before buying it . If the turbines exducer diametre is larger than the turbine he uses then the exhaust housings no good . For a bolt on he'd probably prefer the compressor housing from a std RB20 or 25 turbo . Guys there really is nothing magic about the Hitachi bush bearing cartridge . Dimensionally tis very similar/same as a Garrett T3 and probably made under license - nothing special . At a guess I'd say JMS used a combination of parts to have a "turbo" made because the bits were lying around . I think years ago I tracked down the people who dynoed that car with that Hi Flow and they admitted that is was surgy and laggy and only made some Ok numbers at higher revs . In its final form I believe that car had some form of rotary Jap aftermarket IHI turbo fitted and being developed from a proper set of components worked to a degree though if memory serves me correctly the turbine housing was rather large . My advice is don't buy anything with an 8/16 blade T04B compressor because any turbine worth having won't work even passably with it . A .

GCG was supposed to have got a supply of 52 trim GT3076R's in a while back , give them a ring . The ID tag numbers shoud say 700382-10 or -11 and the cartridge number MUST be 700177-5006 for the Garrett factory item . You have to be careful with American turbo "specs" because they often call a compressor by its inducer diametre in mm . The GT37 series compressors used in the GT3076R/GT3037 turbos measure ~ 52.8 , 55 , 57mm inducer diametres for the 48/52/56T wheels . Who knows what FP's used in their version . Cheers A .

Hi Fatz , I'm curious as to why you run an X pipe downstream of turbochargers ? I can see what they were trying to do with V8's but not sure if it'd do anything positive for turbo . What sized turbos are the 2x2.5 pipes feeding into ? Cheers A .

If you do some research into engine oil you'll find the lower number is a cold pouring index not a cold viscosity reference . Could you imagine a lubricating oil with a viscosity rating of 10 at 20 Deg C and 60 at 80+Deg C ? It doesn't work like that . Good synthetic oils pour quite freely at temperatures significantly below zero C so pumping it round the system in cold areas is not the issue it once was . If you look at good factory workshop manuals they tend to specify oil viscosity based on the temperature of the environment its used in . Obviously the colder it is the lower the viscosity oil is recommended which makes me think maintaining adequate oil pressure is oil temperature dependant . I did talk to SK once about Castrol Edge 10/60 , he likes it and uses it with no probs I can remember . I'd like something a little lighter in the winter time and he said yes theres probably a small power gain to be had from a tad less oil drag . I don't thrash cars on the street so I probably don't need the oil to have the ability to get really hot to the point where pressure becomes an issue . If I did then a healthy oil cooler thermostatically controlled would cover most eventualities I think . Cheers A .

My opinion only , T04Z as I said with the larger T4 flanged twin scroll housing (greater gas flow than T3 flanged TS T4 housing) or possibly preferably a GT4088R and they come with a TS T4 flanged GT40 turbine housing . Will need a really flying manifold and everything else . A .

Its still lower than I'd like it to be . There's no reason you can't go round the front like an RB26 does except there wont be the barbed fitting like they have to connect it to . The inlet manifold really is the best place to do it . Cheers .

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Hi , I'm not quite sure which part your trying to plumb but assume you must mean the top hose that went via the steel line around the back of the head ? Surely there must be some provision on the inlet manifolds plumbing for this return if its designed for an RB25DET ? Anyhow if not , the idea is to not make the turbo a high spot in its water cooling plumbing , if you do the steam bubbles displace coolant (steam is less dense and lighter than water and it forms a gas trap) so it gets no cooling after hot shut down - bad . You MUST have cooler water rising from below the turbo and the post turbo water rising to a high point in the cooling system otherwise the bubbles can't escape and the turbos coolant system can't thermosyphon when the water pump stops . Also if you try to get water from the wrong side of the engines thermostat (radiator side) the water pump WILL draw water backwards through the turbo's coolant line because you've effectively added a bypass for the thermostat and so the engine takes longer to warm up from cold . You need to have the water supply and return to the engines coolant from the block and generally the head - but not on the radiators side of the thermostat - not a problem for an RB as the thermostat is on the bottom hose . I think the simplest thing to do is to tap into the water return manifold on the lower side of your new inlet manifold and place the return there . Basically recreating what Nissan did . Cheers A .

Just bit of load at low/med revs to get gas pressure behind the rings so they run a bit more tension against the bores to bed them in . No rocket science , I like SK's idea of using a cheap garden variety Castrol oil without the friction modifiers to help it along . Thrashers be warned , because everything has been apart there will always be a slight chance something may leak and if an oil/water hose connection goes in a big way its the expensive engine that may need another rebuild . Also if some mechanical thing works loose you may not hear it before it goes bang at high revs . Oopsh . Your engine - your money - your call . Cheers A .

Hi all , I followed a link to this site and at a glance looks good for those into dataloging and tuning engine management systems . If you search "enginuity" its the second one down , a link would be nice ... Cheers A .

Sorry link doesn't work . Search New exhaust manifold by Full-Race for Subies ! Page 15 . Cheers A .

With Variable Nozzle Turbine housing turbos (shortened version of VATN or variable area turbine nozzle) they want all the exhaust gas to go through the nozzle ie none wasted or bypassed around the turbine . The idea is to control boost (compressor speed) purely from variable gas speed (variable restriction) . If its possible to open the nozzle up far enough the exhaust gas velocity falls and the compressor speed becomes constant or even falls . Electronic controlls are what the manufacturers would need to stay on top of things like exhaust gas temperature and possibly to assist exhaust gas recirculation if need be . All sorts of strategies used to make NoX emissions suit the laws of the land . I think from our point of view the complexity is too great and too limiting for the "aftermarket" . Yes OT , I was just at Nasoic and found this in a thread I've been watching . Some interesting thoughts about T4 vs T3 flanged T4 twin scroll housings . Of no interest to those with split pulse T3 flanged manifolds but if you happened to have a T4 flanged manifold ie HKS low/cast with the T3 stud pattern and could have both T3 and T4 food for thought . Both the RB20/25 and RB26 low cast HKS manifolds have this T4 sized flange its just that the 20/25 one has smaller ports but they could be opened up ... Cheers A . Edit , link removed see below .

I think the other one looks like an R32 RB20DET turbo , real good upgrade to an R31 RB20DET . Cheers A .

Yes anyone with their thinking cap on wouldn't bother with the cropped version and unless it was the Pro S GT2835 it wouldn't bolt up anyway (wrong flange) . The GT3071R's I've seen Geoff use on SR20's also used his split pulse manifolds and they are T3 flanged . Anyone who looked at the thread I mentioned a while back should also have noticed that their GT3071R's had the T04E compressor housing with the smaller inlet snout or boss . Off the top of my head this boss measures 2.75" instead of 4" so a bit easier to plumb . Also the cropped turbine at 56.6mm is a bit small to be going into a GT32 turbine housing that had a 64 odd mm turbine originally . Cheers A .

Turn the turbos round sideways and compare the iron bearing housings , the later R32 RB20 turbos should be ball bearing and the middle is larger in diametre or fatter if you like . If your RB20 one is skinnier and its exhaust housing bolts are on a smaller pitch circle diametre then its probably an early R31 RB20 bush bearing turbo . These used much smaller compressors in an attempt to spool them early . From memory the exhaust housing A/R was very small and they're not much good for anything . The Hitachi BB ceramic turbos have a small bolt head in the side of the bearing housing , general consensus is that its some sort of bearing pre load device but anyway only the BB Hitachi's had them - from what I've seen anyway . Cheers A .

Yep they're not as agricultural (the truck type) as people often think . I'm sure people here would have seen the Nissan/Garrett style T04B comp cover , I think its standard on the GT-RS and Garretts marketed GT2871R 52T . Basically 3 bolt outlet and 2 bolt inlet something like I think SR20's have std though there are S13 and S14 variations . Internally its the same as the garden variety T04B .60 A/R housing and there's two variations of that as well ... Cheers A .