discopotato03

For my 10c I believe there is type A and B Poncams for the Neo Turbo 25 and I would go for the type As or OE cams . From memory the type As are about 252 duration and the type Bs 260 . Where the Neo has it over the R33 25DET engine is a bit more lift and more aggressive lift ramps on the cams . This obviously didn't work with the R33s hydraulic buckets hence the solid ones and shim adjustment . I believe Nissan was looking to pull the torque peak down the rev range on the GTt hence better valve train and different inlet manifold volume . I think the longer period B cams would cost you low down part throttle torque and be less suited to the NEOs manifold . One here with a Neo type Stag went B cams and regretted the decision later . You call , mine would be standard or at most the shorter Poncams . A .

Just off the phone to Rockdale Nissan spares and they have everything , mostly ex Japan , to pick up . To replace every heater hose inc the plastic junction , every hose and pipe under the inlet manifold inc all block fittings costs about a grand . Some of these bits are discontinued and if lucky old stock available . I will be using whatever coolant they recommend because they know their metallurgy best and what green blood works reliably . I had an old Subaru L Series RX Turbo a while back and that car tried to kill itself with coolant leaks a dozen times . Too many hoses in really awkward places to get at . Water leaks kill engines so cooling systems must be reliable . A .

This . http://Nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3898-rb25det/engine/211/14075N/

For an ECR33 the part number is 1405321U00 and on my invoice its called PIPE, WATER-OIL COOLER . They are only available ex Japan and mine came via John Robinson Nissan Rockdale in Sydney . I ordered everything under the manifold hose and tube wise that see's coolant including the screw in rear block fitting and the press in water pump end one and the longer tube that hangs under the manifold . Search ECR33 followed any of those part numbers on the Nissan diagrams . Brings up an American site with the schematic and actual part numbers . A .

Just in case you want the block water fittings part numbers ... Rear screw in barb , 14875P from schematic , equates to 1407504U00 . Front press in double fitting , 14875PA from schematic , equates to 1407575T05 . The steel heater return pipe that bolts under the manifold is 14075 schematic , equates to 1405321U10 . As mentioned elsewhere the four way steel pipe assembly in the short hose just off the rear block fitting is 1405321U00 . Its part description is "PIPE , WATER-OIL COOLER" . A .

Parts for 20 year old Skylines will be drying up so if you want them order them now . These are for an ECR33 (GTS25T) and as far as I know fit Series 1 and 2 , mine is 6/96 M spec . The schematic diagram header is this "MODEL: R33 278 - - C 01 HEATER PIPING" Part numbers off the schematic are : 27185 (Heater core side upper) 92410 (Heater core side lower) 92400 (Drivers side upper - engine side) 92412 (Drivers side lower - engine side) The actual part numbers are in same order 9240175T00 9241021U00 9240021U00 9241221U00 That double plastic hose joiner mounted to the fire wall is 92425 schematic and actual 9242570T00 . I'm renewing everything because I want my car to be reliable . The 4 way steel pipe under the back of the inlet manifold (feeds heater oil cooler and throttle body) has a pin hole leak and is a bastard to get at . I figure replace that and all water hoses under there including the oil cooler ones and should have no further probs . Double check these number before ordering , AFAIK they are correct . A .

After much searching the Nissan part numbers I found are 21308 and 20308+A . Individual part numbers are 2130721U15 and 2130721U20 . Cheers Adrian .

Hi all , does anyone know the part numbers for the oil heat exchanger water hoses for a 96 GTS25T ? I'm getting just about every other water hose under and behind the inlet manifold genuine from Japan via John Robinson Nissan at Rockdale in Sydney . Not cheap but the originals are 20 years old and I don't trust them . Thanks , cheers Adrian .

Rockdale Nissan Sydney kindly got me a new one ex Japan . Now on a mission to get a full set of genuine water hoses for everything under the inlet manifold and change everything at the same time . I figure they are 20 yrs old and living on borrowed time . Hate water leaks in hard to get at places . Also doing the heater hoses and the plastic joiner gadget on the firewall . Can anyone help me out with part numbers for the oil heat exchanger water hoses plz . Cheers Adrian .

I spoke to John Robinson Nissan spares today and the part is on its way from Japan . Also Nissan Import Spares has moved back to the old location next to Super Cheap on the south bound side of the Princes Hwy Rockdale in Sydney . Cheers , A .

Before biting me yes I posted in the maint section but no replies - and obviously this is an FI engine . In the heater feed line that exits the rear of the block on the drivers side there is a four way steel junction tube . It has two other outlets to feed the oil heat exchanger and the small line that runs up/over the inlet manifold to the throttle body . My mongrel has a pin hole leak just after the hose join on the TB line side . Really need a new or good used one to make a reliable fix here . Also this is going to be a count of a job to remove and replace so only want to do it once . Sounds like on a hoist underneath with the starter motor out . Luckily someone here in another thread posted the cooling system plumbing diagram and it shows this as part no 14075N which cross references to OEM Pn 1405321U00 . So has anyone else had this drama and is this "Pipe Assembly , Heater Feed" possibly still available new ? Car is a 96 GTS25T S2 btw . Just what you want when the ID squirters were fitted and wanted to go tuning . Any help much appreciated cheers Adrian .

More researching this pipe union is called "Pipe assembly , heater feed" . From the R33 RB25DET cooling system diagram the part no is 14075N which translates to OEM Pn 1405321U00 . A .

To give a better description its the four way tubular steel junction above the starter motor . A .

Hi all , I found a pin hole water leak at the steel fitting below the back of the inlet manifold . Its right below where the rubber water hose runs upwards and forwards to the back of the throttle body . Does anyone know if this part is available in Aus and how difficult it is to change it . Looks like a mongrel of a job with possibly the inlet manifold removed . Probably time to change all those original rubber hoses down there as well . Thanks in advance cheers Adrian .

High Kost Snail ...

Finally happening . Rail kit is Plazmaman and the squirters are ID850GM shorty EV14s . Reg will probably be a Turbosmart and should get it back Monday or Tuesday . A .

Same ceramic turbine , three different compressor wheel sizes . Late RB20DET smallest comp , BB VG30DET then RB25DET . From memory early BB RB20DET was same approx same as RB25DET but with smaller compressor housing casting . VG30 and R33 RB25s use same compressor housing machined for native wheel , RB25 with anti reversion groove in snout . The throat size in RB20 and 25 turbine housings isn't great but the 25 to VG30 is a bit more significant .

They are , or were supposed to be available on IDs site but I can't find them . A .

Hi all , I searched high and low and cannot find the injector dead time voltages I need to get these working with a ViPec R33 plug in ECU . BTW there is no paper work in the box and no they're not fitted yet . I may have to get a local workshop to do this but I'll no doubt have to do the injector setting myself . Any help appreciated cheers Adrian .

Quick question about those GTS-R exhaust manifolds , tube size wise they must be large enough not to restrict an RB25 . What do people think about using these with an IW GT3076R in an R33 ? Cheers A .

People used to say that smallish turbine housings are the go if you want anything even vaguely like OE turbo characteristics on an RB20 . I remember people saying that the GCG hi flowed standard turbo worked quite well for road cars as long as it kept the OE turbine housing size . IMO its the small individual pot size that causes the RB20 low rev limited torque thing so getting boost in early is the way to make good usable road power . It would be interesting to see one of the smaller EFRs on an RB20 , ball bearings and light weight internals has to give the best results .

A quick update cause I couldn't be stuffed looking for the E70 tuning thread . I went back from my United E85 (Green)/7Eleven 98ULP 50 50 blend (E42) to Caltex E70 cause I got fed up hand blending all the time . Laziness just reset the main fuel trim because my timing maps work pretty well overall . The headlines is I managed to get 530 Km from a tank of E70 filled to the neck and run till it started to lean out . This isn't too far short of the best I did on splash blend E42 . I'm planning to get the ID850GM injectors happening in about three weeks depending on when my tuners shop comes back on line . I'm very keen to see how much of a difference modern injectors make to drivability and consumption . No one I know has ever got brilliant consumption out of a 33 era RB25DET but 'd like to see what's possible . Realistically GTT head rods and pistons is probably way to go . 52T still doing a good job , cheers A .

A few Japanese mobs did the two small inlet ports per pot with a butterfly valve to close off one at lower revs/loads . Toyotas was TVIS in early 4AGEs but they like Nissan with early RB20s went away from that idea . With production engines inc turbo ones the manufacturer does everything possible to maximise the part throttle torque because again that's the state all roads car engines are in most of the time . It goes beyond port velocities to things like combustion efficiencies , in the turbo Neo 25s case Nissan kept the same static compression ratio using a smaller capacity chamber and a lower middle section on the piston crowns . Burning efficiency goes up meaning less fuel for the same heat and the ability to create better heat and therefore higher cylinder pressures at lower revs than an R33 spec R25 can . They obviously found ways to reduce detonation around the torque peak without retarding the ignition timing to the same degree . The extra torque at lower revs would be why they used better R26 rods to withstand greater compressive loads . Because the engine was making better torque at lower revs they could afford to use a slightly larger turbine housing , which they had from the VG30 single BB turbo anyway , to slightly reduce exhaust restriction which again improves burning efficiency from less reversion pollution . There comes a time when the turbo needs to boost to make wider throttle torque for greater acceleration or pulling power ie hill climbing . Once you fit larger turbos the boost threshold rises revs wise and you get a gap between engine alone torque and boosted state torque . To get that back you have to find efficiencies the manufacturer couldn't or wouldn't use or increase the engines capacity . Really the only things that generally work are less timing retard from reduced restrictions (eg exhaust) , higher octane rated fuels (eg 98 ULP and or Ethanol) , higher static compression ratios (provided you can beat detonation) , or the capacity increase . I don't think the gains are there from porting an R33 spec RB25 head . I think everything you do to them is aimed at increasing the engines state of tune and that means extra flow potential at higher revs . I think the way to go with a street R25DET is to do as Nissan did with their Neo version , it costs lots of money to develop production engines at manufacturer level and if they could have got the desired result with simpler changes they would have . I also like someone's standard parts where possible because someone else did the hard expensive yards to develop them . This includes heads and pistons . I said before if I ever went inside my 33 25T it would get Neo rods pistons and head . The inlet manifold system stays optional but I would stand to gain the greater part of what Nissan did with a bolt in package that keeps the original engine number . In basic terms all you have to cater to is the different CAS wiring if you use the original inlet manifold etc . In the end most Japanese performance engines from the 1980s-90s didn't make it too far past 2000 . The RBs the SRs the CAs etc were all finished and I think even the 4G63T only went to 2006 , that had a new MiVec head for the 9s only which would have been expensive . Basically the latest/last revision of most engines is the cheapest and best way to go . You would not use a Red Top NICS RB20DET if you could get your hands on the later R32 GTST version . I doubt there's anything positive a GTS25T engine can do that a GTt one can't do better . Given a choice its always going to be a better basis standard or modified . A .

It seems Nissan have changed the R200 carrier or crown wheel offset if you like in the 3.69 - 3.91 gap . The 3.54 and the 3.69 ratio pinions have 13 teeth where the shorter ones ie 3.91 and 4.08 have less teeth and so a smaller diameter . This is why people find a 5mm difference in crown wheel height or "thickness" when they pull late R200s apart and try to swap their aftermarket LSD carriers from say an S14/S15 3.69 ratio into a shorter 4.08 ratio JDM R200 . A .

I think the same era Stags used the same head , not sure if OE cams were the same though . Apparently Stag Neo engines are harder to sell because most don't want the 4WD block and sump . Without more work than its worth you won't recreate a turbo Neo from an R33 casting . The Neo is a unique system of pistons chambers cams and valve train , and a different inlet manifold . A sum of its parts so unless you have the complete system you can't guarantee the same results . Probably easier to buy a good complete Neo (minus hot side) or equivalent Stag engine if you don't want to fit the correct pistons in your own block . A .