discopotato03

Yes I'd be a bit concerned about a copper tube radiator at the front as well , if it were to rupture without warning hot manifolds and high voltage ignition systems could do the blevey thing . Guys I have to wonder about running two pressure pumps , ie a small one (adequate) for normal running and a Gorilla one for super duty . I guess the problem then becomes dont forget to switch over at the right time ... The problem I think is a reliable system that somehow fails safe rather than unsafe from a fuel capacity point of view . With coolers I'd be happier with something made of steel and although its a pain maybe some kind of fan forced one if its not located "out in the breeze" . Actually just had another thought , is it possiple to have a T piece in front of the pump that can somehow bypass a controlled amount of fuel back to the tank so less volume is doing the roundies from the pump to the rail and back ? More complication and how can you reliably block this bypass when you need it all - another manifold pressure referenced FPR ? Food for thought , cheers A .

I think you people need to find a machine shop thats prepared to machine up front hubs with the flange drilled for 5 x 114.4 PCD . This flange needs offset inwards by the same amount as the thickness of the later type disc over studs system . Honestly there are that many people wanting to do this that if you got a large enough group buy happening they would not be that expensive . Another option could be to see how difficult it would be to modify the R30/31 front stub to take an R32/3/4 cartridge style hub and bearing . Another could be to find another hub system that has the same stud PCD from another car manufacturer ie Ford ? Cheers A .

Hi Mafia , yep the results look good so far . I'd really like to see the two manifold pressures compared to see if the EMP is significantly higher than IMP . As far as the "six" blade GT vs "seven" blade T04S compressor families go I'll stand with the people who've spent god knows how long testing these things on flow rigs and know how they perform . As I'm sure I've said in the past cranking 160 odd Hp/litre out of a production engine designed to make 100/L means there will be some compromises BUT you are not exactly using cutting edge technology to do it either . You fuel is limiting and water alcohol I supposed is your detonation protection system . If I told you how to make more torque and power potential everywhere without buying another turbo would you be interested ? If so what sort of budget would you have to achieve it ? If it ment possibly throwing away the water/alcohol system and having better fuel consumption would that be significant ? Later .

Dinosaur Garrett with a few slight A/R variations from memory . If you can't afford to change it then about the only practical thing you could do is play with T45 footprint twin scroll turbine housings . The manifold will be split pulsed and should be running I think a 50mm HKS external wastegate . The best equal in this day and age would be a Garrett GT4088R which also uses a .72A/R compressor housing of similar proportions . The plain bearing GT40 turbos are much cheaper than the ball bearing version . A TO4Z would pull the power (torque) range down considerably over the TA45S and if you can get the right turbine housing from ATP , a GT3582R could pull it down a bit more again . Where do you want the power/how much the budget ? Cheers .

A couple of things I'd be concerned about . 1) Personally I'm not a fan of the big 82mm OD compressors on the 60mm turbine . 2) Advertised as a "4 bolt" turbine housing . Make sure its got the conical stand off on the back of it or its not a propper GT30 turbine housing . Only available in T3 flange .63/.82/1.06 from Garrett , both integral and external wastegate . No offense but I think its brave to compare turbine and compressor housing A/R ratios because they live in totally different environments . The difference in temperature of the gasses let alone pulsed exhaust gasses make their requirements very different . Its entirely possible to run quite large divided turbine housings because the whole expansion of the hot exhaust gasses across a pulse divided system means venting into an area of lower pressure and ultimately volume on the way from the exhaust valves to the turbine blades . The single scroll turbine housing forces you to size its A/R ratio to work a bit like a venturi or nozzle to accelerate the gasses into the turbines inducer blades . If you have to do it this way the roads to rapid transients and acceptable boost threshold is to use conservative compressor wheels that need the least turbine energy to get them cracking . This may make you laugh but Garrett would have been better off doing the GT3082R the other way round compared to a GT3582R ie the GT35's turbine with the GT3076R's compressor making it a GT3576R . That way you get the larger turbine shaft torque to drive the 76mm GT compressors power needs . THEN if you have to pull back on turbine housing A/R at least you get sufficient power from the 68mm vs 60mm turbine . Funnily enough Garrett do make the GT3576 and GT3576R but its in the larger centre section (the ball bearing version) and I believe its the diesel spec HP turbine rather than the petrol performance spec UHP turbine . A "GT3576R" would be like an upsized real GT3071R ie turbine diametre closer to compressor diametre . The real GT3071R is 60/71mm diametres whe a "GT3576R" would be 68/76mm . One who worked for Garrett Aftermarket US did tell me this combination would be good but there is also going to be a slight turbine innertia issue . I think you could get around this easily enough with well thought out manifolds/turbine housings and as always tuning . Off the topic , IMO the GT3082R is the wrong way round and tries to drive a 680 Hp capable compressor with a 500 Hp capable turbine . I think people find the things laggy because the turbine can't develop enough shaft power at low engine speed/exhaust gas velocity to supply the power an ~ 62lb/min (air) capable compressor . The real GT3076R's compressor is good for ~ 53-54lb/min and the real GT3071R's ~ 50lbs/min . I reckon using the .63 A/R turbine housing on a GT3082R merely forces higher exhaust gas velocity into the turbine which my get it going but prematurely chokes up the exhaust side - its the engine that suffers . Cheers A .

I suggest you talk to Geoff Raicer of Full Race Motorsport about his R14 if you haven't already . He went to a lot of effort to make a "BNS-14" and I very much doubt a 2WD version was on the cards . Geoffs no dope , power without traction is an expensive exercise in futility which is why theirs is AWD . I haven't asked him but I'd say itys highly likely they went RB26 because the AWD transmission goes bolt and he happens to like the RB26 top end . Plenty of Americans have lots of fun with turbocharged KA24DE's but no one here can get it through their skulls that you don't need lots of revs if the torque is there . Sure the stroke is long but so is the rod and the block is tall and iron , wouldn't you think 6.5K revs is enough for a drift engine where you have to drive it on the throttle and have the boost and revs follow your foot ? With the right bits KA24's fall into S13/14 because they were native in the USDM S13/14 240SX . Cheers .

You are limited by whats now available for R30's because of the age of the things . 1) Did read that R31 rear struts are shorter than R30 so may give more room to move with non std springs . 2) The strut tubes of an R30 are not big enough to fit 36mm inserts but there may be something available in a 32mm . IMO R30's don't need to be real low at the front so keeping the std tops /neutral camber/and lots (6) deg of positive caster transforms the way they turn in - far better effective camber as the wheels move from straight ahead . If I were doing a DR30 again I'd look into the R31 Bilsteins possibly from the R31 GTS sold here in Aus . Then I'd go see AJ and SW at S Wilkins racing and talk to them about removing the std front struts seat/weld then extruding the tube to fit 36mm Bilstein inserts . I used the HDT short series Bilstein insert intended for early Commodores and from memory its part number is P36 0303 . Cheers .

I think what people are trying to tell you is how much effort and cash is needed to make it a reality . A long heavy motor thats no torque mountain in std form - for drift . No competitive engine is going to be cheap regardless of if its in the car or on the floor . I think you'll find in this day and age more factory and aftermarket goodies for SR20's than RB20's which means greater availibility and lower cost for the right bits . I can partly understand why in the US there is this S13/RB20 craze - no R32/33/34's or SR20DET USDM cars . If they'd had the R32GTST they wouldn't bother converting S13's . When you can have 400 ft/lbs of torque from a half serious SR20 at 4500 rpm why would you plonk an RB20 into it ? One more time , said this last time . Search FreshAlloy.com Forums - Twin scroll question . Cheers .

Yep lots of controversy over turbines/housings and those 71mm GT35 compressor wheels . Cost and complexity are very much a factor as well as performance (potential) numbers . A GT-RS (HKS housing GT2871R 52T turbo) is more compact/cheaper/simpler to fit than their Pro S turbos . Where the smaller dryer' pays off is that it works closer to the sorts of engine revs/loads used much of the time . I think you get better value for money from your mods when you can use them most often , 250 kw ? its a number based on torque and maximum revs . Your respective calls but I think its torque numbers you ought to be chasing because if you can get it without big revs great , then pull another gear because thats what the box is there for . As far as the GT-RS is concerned its based on the HKS custom T3 flanged GT28 .64A/R integral wastegate turbine housing . If you can beg/borrow/etc one of these housings ANY GT28 BB based turbo with that turbine can be bolted up eg 2530 GT28RS GT2535 GT-RS GT2871R's . Cheers .

If I was doing it again I would look at what the Local R31 GTS got in the way of Bilsteins . It sounds like the rear pretty much go straight in but the front may need some strut mods to get the length/height right . Cheers A .

Hint : To have less exhaust manifold pressure the leading edge is twin scroll housings and unfortunately the external gate . This is the route to having performance and turbine response without the excessive exhaust restriction and heat . I would do this rather than open up a healthy engine even one with 9:1 static CR . People the world over are blown away by how well this this system works even with bigish turbos . If it were me I'd think about the HKS low cast manifold/ext gate and a twin scroll turbine housing for the GT3582R . Up to you but having an engine that pulls well from 4500 to 7500 is a little narrow for a road car in my book . If you can pull some extra torque up (notice I didn't say boost) the extra 500-1000 usable revs makes a huge difference . These bits cost more than walking around money but compared to a serious engine rebuild with upgraded components its cheap for the result . My opinion only but yes the real GT3071R's and GT3076R's (pref 52T) would have been further up my wish list . Your calls , cheers A .

Here at planet potato if we can't see an A/R number we look inside the mouth of the turbine housings mounting flange . HKS's T04Z turbine housings have two inlets even though they are not a divided or twin scroll housing . From my diagrams these housings should have the number on the right hand wall of the right hand passage . Cheers .

OT but I'd hold out for a PFC . I'm beginning to think the problem with PFC's is that they make it too easy and don't paint you into corners . Everything else in my narrow opinion takes you down the road of frustration and grief . The Path : Buy/plug/play . 1) Buy They are still out there . 2) Plug Self expanitary . 3) Play Follow the idle learn proceedure and it drives well on a reasonably std car . 4) Need larger injectors and MAF ? Plug/set/play . The way of frustration and grief . 1) Buy Hope it runs 6 injectors and 6 coils sequentially and can make the idle system work as factory . 2) Fit Hope you know of someone thats good at wiring and setting crank trigers etc . 3) Play Hope the tuner has something in the way of maps to make it run or it won't even start . The costs : Its hard to imagine that you could buy aftermarket computers worth having and have it wired in and running virtually like a std car for less than a new or used PFC . I really dislike MAP sensed systems and many of the aftermarket ECU's make you use them . As a last nail in the coffin - you don't just unplug the aftermarket box and refit the std one to aftermarket management . With a PFC it takes as long as to remove the kick panel and unscrew one (1) bolt . Reverse this proceedure and fit the std boxes 2 mounting bolts and its done . Your call .

Another update , whilst ratting 1st Gen Liberty bits for the RX I found that they use a Nabco 1" BMC with either 4 or 3 outlets and they appear to be a single cylinder body ie no proportioning valve . There are also available plugs so that any unused BMC outlets can be sealed safely . In the app I'm using cars could have 3 or 4 outlets so I went 4 to cover all the bases . These Liberty BMC's have outlets facing down and towards the offside of the bay so the horizontal ones would be the ones to plug for a two line Nissan ABS type car . I can't be totally certain these interchange with Skyline BMS's at the booster but the mounting system looks identical . Cheers A .

Your choise but I'd be sorting any exhaust issues before trying to force the engine or turbo with controllers . I once had an engine detonate a piston due to an exhaust restriction I didn't know about - expensive . Cheers A .

Just for the record those HKS GT2535's are really just a 2530 with a slightly larger dinosaur 6/12 blade compressor tossed in because Garrett weren't doing the 71.1mm GT35 series compressors at that time like in later GT2871R/GT-RS type turbos . If you got a GT2871R 48T and bolted the HKS T3 flanged turbine (exhaust) housing to it you would have the same approximate deal with a more modern compressor wheel . HKS got into Garretts GT ball bearing turbos early and for this reason had some combinations of mainly compressors that they don't use today . This is why turbos like 2510's , 2535's and 2540's are no longer made , better combinations developed with later thinking has made them redundant . Roll on the twin scroll twin integral gate turbos like IHI is supplying to Subaru because they are the way of the future . Cheers A .

Front brakes working too hard ? I think that equates to rears not working hard enough . When I was researching master cylinders for Skylines I did read that rear line proportioning valves were set differently for Z32's and 240 SX's . It may pay you to find out what our spec S14's and S15's are using and maybe substitute one of theirs . I did see somewhere that some S15's had a 1" BMC (should have BM57 stamped on the blind end) so if its bias is different (one would imagine an S15 would have substantially different front/rear weight balance) it may be the solution . Cheers A .

Just my 2c worth , if its a kit designed to fit the std exhaust manifold you could do worse than just run it that way and see what you think . I think you'll be pushing it uphill with the proverbial pointy stick trying to get an aftermarket manifold to do much better than the std one with the turbo in the standard position . HKS's bolt on kit assumes its going onto a std manifold and the plumbing is designed to work around std fittings . Once you go down the non std manifold road a lot of effort and money goes into making everything miss potentially red hot components . Honestly if it were me I would leave the std manifold there , unless you planned to extrude hone it and fit the kit as intended . Often cast manifolds particularly factory ones are quite durable and not as shoddy performance wise as many people think . I'd imagine Cubes will step in soon and mention the sorts of power figures that these manifolds are good for and if its in step with the turbos potential there may be very little (if anything) lost over an expensive to buy/fit/plumb around tubular one . 2 cents spent , cheers Adrian .

HKS's GT2510 was one of their older spec GT28 turbos , basically a GT2530 (60mm 63 trim compressor) but with the slightly less performance oriented GT28BB turbine . It shows the dated thinking that more restrictrive turbine would add better spool to same compressor . Later practise shows us that it takes more exhaust energy (meaning also restriction) to drive the same compressor and the hot side choking prematurely compared to a GT2530 with its more open bladed (and less blades as well ) turbine . This was why HKS turbos like the GT2510 and GT2540 were discontinued , replaced by better combinations like the GT-RS and SR20 spec GT-SS . The SR20 spec GT-SS uses the same turbine as the GT2530 but with a smaller trim 60mm compressor ie 60 vs 63 trim . What they achieved was better exhaust throughput (less restriction) and less or lower workload for the turbine with the 60T compressor which brings response up (boost threshold down) . Cheers A .

My opinions . The thermal mass of your typical automotive turbocharger is not that great - meaning the heat that its bearing housing is capable of absorbing . You would not expect to gain any noticable performance through running the core 40 deg cooler . The purpose of having the water jacketed centre section is to prevent the bearings getting hot enough for their lubricating oil to bake on when the engine is shut down - in this situation you also have the thermal mass of the turbine housing and to a degree the exhaust manifold . Provided that coolant through the turbo can be made to thermosyphon the turbos centre section can be kept around 100C or a bit over with the water coolant carrying the heat away into the engines cooling system . The ideal system is one that picks up the coolest water (usually down low on the block ie drain bung hole) and feeds it back in just below where the head feeds coolant back to the radiators top tank . This was how my FJ20 was done and you could plainly hear water boiling in the turbos jacket and hot water/steam bubbles rising up to the head side of its thermostat (which was obviously open) and out to the radiator and up through to the coolant overflow tank . Its critical to have the water lines rise up to the turbo then up to a high point in the cooling system where steam pockets won't allow localised overheating ie VL RB30 head where the radiator is lower than the head outlet . DON'T make the turbo a high point ie water outlet facing down allowing gas bubbles to be trapped in the turbos water jacket because where there's no water there's no cooling . This bubbling/gurgling only happened for a couple of minutes with hotter (less dense and therefore lighter) water floating up and out of the turbo and being replentished by water from the lowest coolest part of the engine . Great system because its fully automatic . Just in case you don't know FJ20's have the thermostat at the heads water outlet where RB's have it at the blocks water inlet . In theory you could feed water back to the top hose or even the rads top tank if there was a convienent place . You can't do it this way with the thermostat before the upper hose because the turbos water plumbing acts as a thermostat bypass and the engine takes longer to warm up . I guess if you really wanted to make a small improvement to the cooling system you could place a cooler core between the turbo outlet and the high point but your cooling system would have to be really struggling for it to be of any practical value . Night all .

A couple of things to know here , is it local or JDM ie 5 link or semi trailing arm IRS . If its a locally sold sedan they have 4 parallel links and a panhard rod for lateral axle "location" . The upper parallel arms are much shorter than the lower ones which helps to keep the nose of the diff roughly aimed at the gearbox and keeps it away from the floorpan . The main issue with the differing arm lengths is "rear steer" with body roll and theres little you can do about that short of fabricating longer upper arms and the boxes that allow them to be mounted/housed above the floor pan in some areas . I think about the best you can do with the five link (for road) is remove the std arms and look for "air gaps" moulded into the rubber bushes . These are there to allow movement and make the bush more compliant . A cheap/easy mod is to fill in these gaps with a product called Stikaflex wich sets and forms the thing like a full rubber bush with less movement but some compliance . What you need to understand is that there has to be some compliance otherwise you load up the link mounting points on the body and axle housing to the point where things crack and break . Four link/five link/trailing arm/semi trailing arm rear suspension have advantages and disadvantages , true multilink probably has the lowest number of disadvantages which is why most performance/upmarket cars now use them . Cheers A .

Different products by different manufacturers . All dimensions different , some mounting flanges aside .

Hi all , got stacks of info on Garrett GT BB turbos but zip on later IHI ball bearing turbos from I suppose WRX's and Evo Lancers . In time wil be looking for a modern turbo for an old 86 Subie RX Turbo so need to know specs ie A/R's and comp/turbine dimensions if possible . I want to look into some of their twin sroll ball bearing turbos ie (I think VF36-39 and VF44) because some of them may just be a convienent way to fit a water cooled BB T/S turbo to some mild RB's . Depending on cost and availability possibly easier than hybrid Garrett . Cheers A .

Actually sorry , mentioned the wrong name . The person I was thinking of I think called himself WilliamsF1 Cheers A .

Light depending on what you are going to use the car for I would be thinking realistically how much traction can I get at best and will the drive line stand up to the power delivery - let alone the pistons rods and crank . It sounds like a can get a big turbo situation and may end up starting here and spending a fortune by the time you reach the other end of the car mods wise . If you don't have the T78 or the budget to build an 800 Hp capable car I reckon I'd be looking for a turbo that would keep you within at least the practical and affordable limitations of the driveline starting at the fan and ending at the tyres . For the 250 + RWKW that you can probably get to the ground through sane street rubber a Hi flow or a real GT3071R done right WILL be streets ahead . Night and day . Your call , cheers A .