discopotato03

For the record the complete GT2530 may not be available but its only unique part was its 63 trim 60mm GT30 compressor . If you bought the -5 cartridge its should be identical to the 2530's except for a slightly smaller trim (62) and tip height compressor . Its turbine and shaft IS the same . Buy , swap comp wheels , balance , done . Its not impossible that the -5 cartridges may suit you better than the 2530's if they were a tad lazy for you . The GT2530 is a HKS optioned Garrett GT2860R and an older one at that . Cheers A .

Sammie don't confuse the GT30R (GT3076R) with the GT3040R (GT3082R) . The first one is less laggy and comes std with a port shrouded compressor housing and is more than capable of the 3-400 Hp you seek . The second one will be more laggy as well as physically larger in the compressor housing so harder to find space for . GT3076R uses cartridge no 700177-5007 , GT3082R uses cartridge no 700177-5014 . Confirm with Slide . I not long ago stripped a turbo for someone else here and it was not the one they thought it was . You MUST be sure of the part numbers , also be CERTAIN the integral waste gate housing is the genuine Garrett GT30 type for best results . If possible get pics from the supplier . All this gear is expensive and very much so if you have to do it twice instead of once . Cheers Adrian .

Just in case anyone wanted a port shrouded TO4S .70AR compressor cover for their GT3540R/GT3582R Garrett makes one and it looks like this . The reason I went looking was because a contact and ex employee of Garrett US said that some of the aftermarket ported shrouds do jack shite . I am trying to get the comp map to show the difference . Cheers A .

A couple of options here depending on what else is damaged on that HKS GT2530 . IF its turbine housing is was not damaged a reasonably cheap way to get a virtually new turbo would be to buy the Garrett -5 or which ever is the 2530 equal cartridge (CHRA) and swap compressor wheels . The rest of the cartridge is the same as a 2530 (same turbine and bearing/housing assembly) . Fit the 2530's 63 trim compressor , balance and refit the 2530's housings . GCG or Garrett should be able to do this for you . Cheers A .

Very topical points here . 1) Large front mount intercooler will always flow more air and have less restriction . Best of British . Large FMIC's are not all the same and some bloody awful . How many times have you seen the large glitsy bling IC with shallow end tanks and fittings with a short shot basically at the core tubes in line with them . Air is like most things - it has mass and the faster it moves the less it wants to change direction so many of the bling or should I say Ka Ching coolers don't effectively use much of their core area . Some auto manufacturers ie Nissan with the GTR and Porsche (sp?) go to a lot of trouble to make their tanks feed and collect from the core tubes properly and is why they work . So not every big intercooler is a good one . First a good intercooler has to have little resistance to airflow because cooling efficiency means little if it can't pass the gas . 2) Thermal issues . There will always be a tug of war between getting best use of hot expanding exhaust gasses for the turbocharger and keeping the engines structure long term reliable . Provided you can keep the heat in the gas it has a chance to maintain high velocity . Provided you can control the temperature of things like pistons valves head manifolds turbines/housings you have a say in their useful life . I believe ceramic thermal barrier coatings have the ability to shield to a degree components that feel the fire so they suffer less of the thermal lashing that kills components over time . Thermal wrapping exhaust manifolds seems to pay off probably because the gasses need to be directed to a central location and ducted into a turbine housing so a lot of heat is concentrated in this area . It probably has the greatest potential to remove heat than any other component which is why over the years so much effort is thrown at competition exhaust manifolds . I feel that a lot can be gained from removing the restrictions in our production based engines so that they don't really need to be run in high states of tune to get impressive power . Having a lot of heat is one method , having less restrictive gas paths is another . Cheers A .

RB30 short FACTS . All Aust R31's have S2 blocks meaning they have provision for turbo oil supply and drain plus coolant water feed . No production RB30 block had piston oil squirters and it is a difficult mod to do because the RB30 main oil gallery walls are thinner in the block than rb20/25/26 so very few will work . Fitting the RB25 head to an NA RB30 gets you around 8.3:1 static CR , on an RB30ET gets very low read stupid low CR . The RB30S was a poverty pack option on ST model GQ Patrols , it was carburetted . RB30ET used a slightly higher volume oil pump because its bush bearing dinosaur T3 turbo needs a fair bit of oil to keep it lubed and cool . The RB30 ET was in a very low state of tune for a turbo engine . CR under 8.0 , boost only about 4lbs positive , no intercooler and turbo small for 3 litres . Feels torquey in a lightweight VL commode door , the General was concerned at the time that the Jap heart may have slapped the iron 8 which they can do with suitable mods . They were reasonably cheap to mass produce though the dollar/yen exchange rate eventually went against the RB and we wound up with the cheaper Buick based 3.8 V6 . Cheers A . Note : This conversion (DOHC) is not a cheap operation to do properly , far from impossible but not cheap .

That thing looks like a 3L Cressida 7MGE radiator . My vote for R32GTR or something like JJ that won't split tanks . Prefer factory rad fan setup . Cheers A .

I think I'd put the money into 2530's or the Garrett marketed equivalent GT2860 . These will sell later more easily than dinosaur bush bearing hi flows and may work better than you think . 5000+ boost threshold is terrible in any street car , highly impracticle IMO . Dyno numbers are one thing but precious few drive dyno's for a living . Sorry if I sound sarcastic but I can't see the draw to such a high state of tune when the power can be had in a more usable rev range . Big revs mean high wear and tear and bucket loads of money to make the transmission survive . I cannot see how rear wheel drive in an S13 (let alone the S13 chassis) can make use of the power you are talking about . Still to each their own . Cheers A .

Hmm , me thinks offseting the caliper 2mm inwards and using a 4mm spacer plate (assumes caliper is two piece) may work provided it had a reliable hydraulic seal . Cheers A .

Available now for ~ $235 (235/45/17) . Fantastic extention to the full SK/Whitline suspension kit on an R33 GTS25T . Very comfortable and very high adhesion qualities in my limited experience .. I'll be very interested to see how they perform in wet conditions . Cheers Adrian .

Michelin Pilot Preceda PP2 , these are the fruit on road IMO . Car is R33 GTS25T with SK/Whitline full suspension kit . Wheels are Rays Engineering LM1GT4 5 spoke 17 x 8 30P and tyres 235/45/17 profile . In the dry it would take stupid speeds to find the limits of adhesion and since its public roads ATM not going to find them . Damage was 235 each so 940 the set . Cheers Adrian .

I'm thinking along the lines of std GTS25T calipers all round but out on larger diametre disks of same or similar diametre (324 fronts) . My R33 has no ABS (swoon/cheer) and I'm hoping not to have brake bias problems . Thoughts ? Cheers Adrian .

Hi Ronin , can I assume Nissan used the same disk dimensionally on the Brembo 350Z rear as S2 R34GTR ? I ask because if this is the case then the disks would be locally available and in std form not too bank breaking . I ask because my R33 GTST will be up for pads and disks soon so I though why not a slight upgrade at the same time . Did Roy get the brackets made or at least work out the dimensions ? Cheers A .

Hi all , can anyone tell me if the S2 R34GTR rear disk will fit on S2 R33GTS25T and if so do caliper mount adapters exist for this conversion . Cheers A .

You could also look into TO4Z's and Garretts GT4088R , more modern wheel and housing designs at least in the 4088R . TO4R wheel pretty good too . TO4Z very popular , can stay bellow the trashed engine end of the rev range and make more than respectable power . Used std engines in high states of tune often end up in the scrap bin . Whats the transmission and wheel/tyre budget like ?

Looking for standard R34GTT intercooler and rear plastic duct . Cheers and thanks A .

Mike I think the castings are different port wise and there are things that can be achieved with the 26 head (port shape) that are not possible with any of the others . I'm told ALL of the valve train components are different in RB26's ie valves/guides/collets/buckets/springs/cams so not cheap to obtain without the casting itself . Also the competition style inlet system is not insignificant for a race car . The RB25 top end is a saleable item so could offset costs as well . Probably sounds silly but expensive once and effective ever after , it really does solve most of the limitations of the production 4 valve RB set up and points the inlet tract where it should be . Cheers A .

Small dab of grease to stick washer to turbo or banjo . Join the club , many hours spent R/R turbos - just not for fun . Also the reason why propper Jap kits give ALL the fiddly bits and usually bolt up reasonably easy - for a turbocharger .

Probably for the second time but are there any pics available of the Apexi RB25/26 exhaust manifold ? Cheers A .

R33 Racer , coil pack fitment not sure though can't imagine why they would change dimensionally . Mine is R33 26 but have not got around to comparing its coils to RB anything else . Since the car is R33 it would make sense to try and re use the sensors/loom/computer (PFC ?) etc because you already own them . I'm not sure if theres any real value in an RB26 management system unless you opt for twin AFM's (assumes you use MAF sensors) . I think the injector resistance hurdle is more cheaply solved with easily available OEM (not necessarily GTR) resistor packs . The only really unsolved aspect is the RB26's air temp sensor as in how to get non RB26 ECU's to read it and make compensations if need be . Last I heard Cubes I think had issues with this resulting in PFC electrical repairs . Anyhow no doubt this sensors output could be logged so that any temp/density problems became a known . For those who delve into factry GTR ECU's can you tells us what compensations these ECU's made ? Cheers A .

Sad fact appears to be that everything is different except the head to block stud pattern and the water gallery that was modified with R33 RB25 heads . Sorry cam pulleys dimensionally and placement same as any RB DOHC head . Studs are larger diametre as well though I did hear someone say that thin walled sleeves may work . Essentially as long as there is enough support area where the bolt heads/nuts pull down on the top of the head casting I can't see any disadvantage with RB25DET fasteners (over what you use now that is) . Maybe steel wasters with a lip to centre on the stud hole would help keep the stud/bolt on centre . SK ? The manifold patterns both sides is different , orientation only exhaust side , many changes inlet side though no probs as no one would want the RB25 manifold on an RB26 head . Exhaust side is a pain because there is limited choises with single turbo manifolds particularly if you want a cast name brand ie HKS (known quantity I reckon) . I asked Gary recently if he thought it a practical proposition to weld bosses on the exhaust side of an RB26 head so that it could use either RB25 or 26 type exhaust manifolds . It seems that the right fabrication techniques make this a straightforward operation . I'm also told there are port differences with 26 heads that help make a bit more go . Lots of aftermarket goodies available for 26 heads , cams/valves/guides/springs etc . Granted not cheap but better off than other production engines where "works" heads cost house deposits . Cheers A .

What I want to know is can the "peg" or drive in the camshaft itself be changed from late 97 R33 RB25DET type (same as r34 ?) to the earlier type half moon/spline arrangement . I guess if the answer is no then does the late R33 GTS25T CAS (black plastic dome type) plug into and work with say the 96 models loom/ecu er PFC . LOL cheers A .

Can anyone tell me if this cam CAS drive can be changed or is it fitted for life ? Also those late/last 97 R33GTST's , did anything electrically change with the ECU and CAS itself ? Does the on R33 GTS25T PFC work with them as well or model specific change/mod ? Cheers A .

The burning question is what electrically does the late/last R33 use CAS and computer wise . The R34GTT apparently is different electrically and optical disc wise . Basically if the very late CAS is effectively only a cam drive change then its just that CAS to fit that cam . I'm watching too though its the first smart cookie to work it out that gets the "sticks" . Cheers A .

I can't see any problem with it but if your concerned talk to a HKS rep and ask what their kits sell with these days .