discopotato03

If your really are serious the Supercharged Buick based V6 would be a good start . As is usually the case it had lots of detail changes to make it reliable with forced induction . In America the Buick Grand National (GN) is a popular car to play with for some and there are lots of bits produced for them in the aftermarket . On the face of it 3.8 litres would probably be fine turbocharged as its 1.5 times the size of an RB25 so would not need to be in a very high state of tune to make fair torque . The USDM version was 4.1 litres from memory so the more the merrier . At the risk of sounding like a walking advertisment for GCG , Brett said a while back that he was thinking of producing a kit for V6 Commode Doors based on the GT3582R so you could ask him . Cheers A .

The GT2510 is outdated thinking , better things around .

I've got a couple of struts complete except for the dampers . Also complete DR30 rear end / brakes / cables . Also rear Bilstein struts though the springs are probably a little firm at 235 In/lbs . Some spare caliper bits as well from memory .

Larger diametre discs at both ends and calipers with larger piston diametres both ends as well . Pretty sure master cylinder was 15/16 bore as well . Best bang for buck and bolt on fit if you buy for reasonable money . Nissan obviously wanted something better for DR30's than MR30's got . Looking for some ? Cheers A .

Yes interesting . One reasonably inexpensive way could be to use a T3 flanged cast exhaust manifold such as the HKS one intended for RB20/25's . Provided you could work around the exhaust bolt pattern difference of the RB26 head it gives you the option to use a GT3582R and one of their new integral wastegate turbine housings . In .82AR ratio this turbo should make reasonable all round performance on an RB26 and be simple and neat . The manifold has the option of external gate but this can be blanked off if need be . Unfortunately the single low mount HKS RB26 manifold is large T4 flanged and hard to find nowdays . Trying to find an IW exhaust housing with this flange makes hens teeth look common . ATP do make a T4 flanged exhaust housing for the GT3582R in I think .82 and 1.06 AR ratios . The HKS GT3240 was only sold in a T28 flanged modified HKS GT30 .87AR exhaust housing as far as I know . It uses I think a cropped GT35 turbine to GT32 dimensions so a bit of an orphan .

My only experience with new SU's was a pair of HIF6's with the non emission manifold on a stretched L20B - 2340 . The later HIF 6 series SU's have the central lower fuel bowl compared to the early "out on a limb" types ie HS4's and HS6's . It helps with fuel surge as the bowl is concentric with the needle and jet . SU's will always have problems with radiated heat particularly with engines that have exhaust and inlet manifolds on the same side ie real Minis and the L series . Later HIF series had a kind of metalic strip compensating device but it was of limited value . A bit of care needs to be taken with these vacum venturi carbs to avoid iceing in humid climates . Cheers A .

Hi Nabil , it seems the power figure of the turbocharger is worked out from its maximum compressor flow in pounds of air per minute . A conservative rule of thumb is 10lbs per hundred Hp so 50lbs of air to 500Hp . No turbocharger manufacturer can work out how much Hp their turbo will make on any engine because there are so many variables . Its up to the person developing an engine to make it swallow as much air as possible and vent exhaust gas at a sufficient rate to not suffer reversion and pumping losses .So basically a 500Hp capable turbo may not get you 500 from your engine , it will depend on how well its developed . Cheers A .

Be careful peoples , not all Garrett GT3071R's are created equal . Firstly the GT3071R-WG . Dog turbo becauses it uses the cropped GT30 turbine in a .64 or .86 GT28 IW exhaust housing . Failed concept , doesn't work acceptably and should not be on the market . Rule (1) with GT3071R turbos , if it has a T25/28 flange (which is wrong for Skylines) its looking for a victim . Secondly the R E A L GT3071R W I L L have a T3 flanged exhaust housing , not any old T3 flanged housing but a real Garrett GT30 type exhaust housing . The R E A L GT3071R will have an unmolested 60mm GT30 84 trim turbine , approx 60 x 55 mm dimensions . This turbine and its native turbine housing family are the critical components that make this turbocharger WORK properly . Its a production derivative of the Garrett competition specific TR30R turbocharger . Do a few searches on Garrett GT3071R and wipe anything ending in WG or -WG . You'll find it at ATP Turbo in the US amongst other places . You'll also find it at turbobygarrett.com but only in the turbo comparison sheet . Scroll down the table to the last of the three GT3071R's , I think they quote is as the highest power capable variant at around either 440 or 450 Hp . Even search this site , at least one person here is using one on an RB20 . Lastly , don't forget that genuine Garrett GT30 integral wastegate housings (T3 flange) are now available in .63 .82 and 1.06 AR ratio . It it were me I'd read the turbos ID tag carefully if searching for one of these , it should say CHRA no 700177-0023 like that Garrett comparison sheet tells you . Don't accept any moron telling you that those numbers are unimportant or minor variations are insignificant . Cheers A .

Danger Will Robinson - avoid this lump . The dog turbo uses a 48 trim T04S compressor in large bulky heavy TO4S comp cover . The turbine is not the cropped GT30 turbine but the normal high performance GT28 turbine . I reckon T28 flanged anything is pointless for Skylines that use the T3 mounting flange on their exhaust manifolds . The real GT3071R , and no not the GT3071R WG version , should work well . Garrett now sells T3 flanged integral wastegate exhaust housings so they will physically bolt to the std exhaust manifold - provided the compressor cover clears it . People have found the GT3076R and HKS GT3037 56T (same centre section and wheels) a little laggy on street cars , HKS also does a 52 comp trim version but they're thin on the ground in Aus . The real GT3071R (insist on cartridge or CHRA no 700177-0023) is probably the best compromise unless you can afford exotics such as HKS brands . You can find its details and pics at ATP Turbos web site . Cheers A .

My opinion only (shared by most of the production engineers at Garrett in Torrence California) . The GT3040R has too large in diametre a compressor for the GT30 turbine , it struggles to produce enough turbine shaft power to drive a high capacity compressor ie with that much sail area . This is why HKS only offered their spec GT3040R in the smallest available 82mm GT40 compressor trim - 50T , the Garrett marketed one at 56T is far laggier by comparison . DO yourself a favour and stay away from the GT2876R , its the same deal only scaled down overall . I will confirm but from memory it uses the hopless TO4S compressor and only T28 flanged exhaust housing are available from Garrett . If it uses the cropped GT30 turbine I suspect it does turbine efficiency will be woeful . Same old story , long shot by Garrett to get more gas flow through the T28 turbine housing family and the concept failed to deliver . Only HKS exhaust housings work with the "cropped" turbine because they are GT30 turbine based castings dimensionally and have the right nozzle design . Back in five .

Hi Roy , it sounds like the point you making is that a single piston floating caliper has the same clamping force (in theory) as a two piston opposing caliper with the same bore diametre ie old 240K . I was always lead to believe that the hydraulic force applied to two pistons in effectively the same cylinder is the same as for one in a single acting cylinder . You basically have the same master piston pressurising both sides of the opposing pistons so force or pressure is the same both sides . The way to increase the hydraulic advantage is to increase the cylinder diametre (caliper) . I guess you could use the example of an old wheel cylinder from twin leading shoe drum brakes . One cylinder two pistons with a central fluid supply , the force wouldnt double in a single piston cylinder all else being equal . Obviously floating calipers don't have the rigidity of an opposing piston caliper be they two four or six pistons . So the way I see it we need to look at the master cylinder piston area (bore size) in relation to the brake caliper piston area , but treating each effective single piston or opposing pistons as its bore size by one . So I guess you could say that if a four piston opposing caliper had the same size pistons as your Corvette floating two piston caliper the hydraulic force will be the same . How well the structure of the caliper stands up to the forces applied depends on the rigidity of the caliper particularly the floating "bridge" type , these tend to want to spread or flex the bridge just like a G clamp does with too much force applied . Actually the floating caliper is virtually a hydraulic G clamp and flexes like one . Opposing piston calipers are often two piece affairs with through bolts and a large clamping area to keep the pistons on the same axis 90 deg to the disc . As for cost vs brake performance , larger diametre discs and caliper extentions get you higher surface speed with the disc betwen the pads and more disc material to absorb/dissipate the heat . Also more mechanical advantage or lever ratio from the larger radius . Quick , simple , straightforward . Going the Brembo route (provided they're a bolt on conversion) is expensive but a factory option so no dramas as long as the complete set of components is used . I'm a bit surprised the rear discs didn't grow more in proportion to the front ones on Brembo GTR's but cost and overall vehicle mass probably had a big say in this . With some of my cars in the past I've tried to keep the rear disc diametre same or slightly larger than the front and used some form of manually adjustable pressure limit or "bias" control valve . I wouldn't deliberatly upgrade front brakes only and rely on higher rear line pressure (brake bias) to compensate because this could work the rear brakes harder than the factory intended and lead to fade when you least expect it . My 2c spent again . Opinions ? Cheers A .

Hi all , when I had the DR30 I spent a few afternoons at Pick n Payless cutting into headlight looms on MR30's . It was very obvious that the Australian delivered cars had heavier gauge wiring than that DR30 did . I'm not sure what a PNE would have but its worth a look to find out . Nissan went to a lot of trouble to make the high low system work off two relays and operate the gauge lights as well . Mine carried the full current across the stalk switch as well which is not flash . At the time I think I worked out that it really needed 6 relays switched by the std loom to make it all work (dash as well) ie one for switched earth on each side and one each for high and low beams on both sides . Standard they are quite involved . I would also take a close look at the reflectors in each light because the age of the things makes them a bit suspect . The Iron Mask lights have a bad habbit of damaging the chrome plating near the bulb making low beam a bit dull . There are supposed to be mobs around that can replate them but for the non Iron Mask lights good seconds are probably still around . High wattage bulbs put out a lot more heat so be sure the light unit can cope with this . Cheers A .

I would check to see if the Ford versions gasket has the divider section because their housings divider does not rise to the same height as the Garrett Housings . At least thats what my pics show . Cheers A .

This is where you find out how it can be easier with Hi Flows based on the original housings and bearing housing . Because it is dimensionally identical to the factory turbos the GCG Hi Flows go bolt with ALL the factory hardware . I think its a big call to claim that the factory oil and water lines are pathetic because in normal service they virtually last the life of the engine . Its no surprise that they don't fit non standard turbos - they wern't designed to were they ? Its a different story with "turbine kits" like HKS etc make up because they've worked out the fiddly bits to make all the parts "fall" together . Like Sk says , Japanese work shops charge like brain surgeons so the faster it all fits and works the less time there is to pay for . Cheers A .

I have those 5 spoke wheels on my R33 , 17 x 8.5 x 30P . Stickers inside rim are Rays Engineering . Between the spokes they have Forged Monoblock on them . Also have Made In Japan cast into them as well . Cheers .

At a guess I'd say its cheap and easy to make two round holes and from the outside would look spiffy to some . I reckon if I was going to make one I'd do something similar to what HKS did with the Pro S style dump pipe . I'd leave the divider in the flange plate and section (cut in half length ways) a smaller section of pipe and weld it to the side of the main outlet pipe . This gate vent path section would need to be fashioned with the nockometre to match the flange plate and probably Mig welded in place . The main turbine vent tube would be a mandrel bend and so would the "halved" wastegate vent pipe . It would be nice if the flange plate was an exact match for the IW housing inc the divider , if the gasket is close enough it could be used for a template to laser cut provided the ask was for a reasonable quantity not just one or two . Cheers A .

Hi Stocky , yeah probably nothing brilliant unless they've had a fiddle with the wheel trims . Otherwise its just another compressor option for the big shaft GT40 style centre section . I get the feeling that small capacity drag engines like some Hondas may like the 4094 kind of thing . Perhaps its a round about way of saying that the GT42R's are not what some would like them to be . HKS's version of that one (T51R) used a fair bit smaller trim turbine (76 vs 84) so no doubt this was done to get same day turbine response ! There is a GT4594R out there which would have low backpressure for its compressor size . So far the BB turbos available on that shaft (frame) size are . 1) P/60-1 76mm Compressor 2) TO4Z 84mm compressor 3) GT37R 82 and 88 mm compressors 4) GT4088R 88mm compressor 5) GT4094R 94mm compressor 6) GT42R 94 and 102mm compressors 7) GT4594R 94mm compressor ETC Cheers A .

Garrett has released a new GT40R option , its basically a GT4088R hot side and GT4294R cold side . Bigger than most would need or want , ATM rated at 850 Hp . Don't know which comp cover yet . Cheers A .

Mafia difficult to say . From other peoples experiences head work seems to do really good things to RB25's and it seems logical that what works for 2.5L would work for 3L . I would think seriously about porting particularly on the exhaust side and researching larger exhaust valves . I would not go under 9.0 CR if I could help it , these things are aimed at pulling up the bottom end pre boost so you get reasonable squirt before the turbo gets cracking . What most people want on the street is torque so breathing and being able to run advanced timimg is what it takes IMO . I hate soggy engines with huge turbos and a farts worth of static CR because the power curve is waitin waitin waitin WHAM why has my car swapped ends ? The GT3582R is not a bad thing though its getting a bit big for a stockish RB25 . While the 25's std cast manifold may not be a huge exhaust flow limiter for upwards of 280 + Kw it does force the gasses through a number of tight bends which is hardly ideal . A straighter shot from the ports to the turbo is preferable and my choice (play it again sam) would be the HKS cast low mount manifold . Everything you can do to reduce flow restriction means more thermal gas expansion velocity energy with which to drive the turbos turbine . I believe this manifold is an oldie but a goodie if you're sticking with the RB25 head and intend to use a T3 flanged turbo . If you were undecided if the 3L conversion was going ahead the GT35R is probably a bit much for a daily driver . One thing I've never seen on a GT35R is a port shrouded compressor cover . HKS do this to a lot of their turbos and I'm beginning to think it may have some response benefits . As far as the .63AR ratio exhaust housing goes I would not use it . The extra restriction it causes kills the fun once the turbo gets going . The centre section of the GT35R is the same dimensions as every GT BB down to the GT25 series . I think you first need to decide which bottom end to go with and use bits to suit its capacity . I'd leave the turbo selection till last .

Yes , port shroud vents . Would be very nice to see that with the allen head cap screws removed and the trumpet section turned around . Please ? ! In the 5th shot look through the compressor housing outlet , note the larger diameter fiffuser section and the beveled edge . Cruize knew about it didn't ya ? Cheers A .

Another option could be the real GT3071R , unmolested GT30 (60mm 84T) turbine with the same compressor wheel as the 56T 2835 . As we know Garrett is doing T3 flanged GT30 IW turbine housings at last so it will bolt to your manifold and have the integral waste gate . The unmolested GT30 turbine measures 60 x 55mm (84T) rather than the cropped version which measures 56.4 x 51.6 (84T) or 56.4 x 53.6 (90T) . What this means is that you'll get a bit more exhaust through the unmolested turbine than the cropped one , while developing a little more shaft torque . The extra gas flow means less for the waste gate to bleed off to control boost pressure . Also the Garrett housings are available in .82 AR so a tad smaller than HKS's .87 Pro S housing . The GT3076R or HKS GT3037 56T will easily make the ponies but I'm not sure if it would make good torque where its needed . Cheers A .

Yes Cubes if not too much trouble . Others here may be interested to see views of its collector if you can get some light into it . I think someone in the US recently posted pics here of an RB with that manifold and a GT30R turbo (sadly with a T31 exhaust housing) on it . Gives everyone an idea of turbo placement and how its slightly different to std . Cheers A .

I lucked out and bought an S2 R33 with this kit fitted . I smile every time I drive it . I had not imagined that it was possible to get this level of handling without the bone jarring ride . No bugger's ever going ANYWHERE near this car with Jap suspension . Cheers .

I get the feeling that the air you are bleeding off with the solenoid control valve is going back into the system downstream of the turbos compressor ie into an area of higher that atmospheric pressure under boost . In the past I've mainly seen this air ducted either straight to atmosphere or back into the system between the engines air filter and the turbos inlet . Also I'm not yet sure where R33's normally get their boost reference pressure from but some such as Corky Bell try to pick it up from the turbo compressor housing or close to the outlet , because if there's any flow restrictions in the inlet system causing a pressure drop the actuator will make the turbo work that much harder to make up for the loss and you won't know it . Just some thoughts , cheers A .

Some very useful points raised here IMO . Firstly the exhaust manifolds , 300Kw is a long way from Nissans ask with the std iron lump which would have been designed to be compact and durable . The sort of volume and velocity of the exhaust gas flow needed for 300Kw really needs something better and the low cast HKS one is a pretty reasonable compromise of durable/still split pulsed/better flow paths/looks sort of standardish - well more than a fabbed high mount one anyway . I know they do a 3 into 1 on each side but at least the diametre increases as each branch is added . Exhaust manilold collectors , I keep findind pics of fabbed collectors with this "power pyramid" thing in the middle of where the separate pipes merge . I was always told that making an exhause collector that flowed well in the wrong direction was not a good idea but some of these type manifolds hang off engines making good power . I still keep scratching my head and thinking could a smaller trim compressor on that GT35R still work response wise as well but with the larger AR 1.06 turbine housing . Any of the 50/52/54/56 trim 82mm GT40 compressors can pump the air required so in theory less turbine load to pump the same volume of air but with less turbine inlet pressure (larger 1.06 housing) should reduce the problems in the chamber ie charge dilution and pre heating . With less of these two factors the ignition timing can probably be pushed a bit more so efficiencies should rise . I have my own theories on running lower water jacket temperatures and good synthetic oils with lower viscosity and more emphasis on oil cooling to keep the engines head and piston crowns a bit cooler to hold the detonation threshold off a bit longer . I'm not suggesting anyone take this one as gospel so do it at your own risk . I've a bad feeling I'll be going through lots of RB30 blocks trying to get one that will take the piston oil squirters because these and the ceramic coatings may make a noticable difference . Out of fingers cheers A .