discopotato03

Yes , that CHRA in Garrett speak in Pt no 700382-12 for the same thing . Some Garrett BB CHRA's need the locating groove machined 1-2 mm deeper into early HkS housings but its a std thing nowdays . There was once a string at a US SR20 site about someone using one of ATP's (Garretts) GT3071R's in a T28 flanged .73 ARR HKS housing and it needed this mod . In that case the 3071R CHRA was being substituted for a damaged 3037 core so the original assembly was an early build HKS turbo . 90% of them go bolt . GCG said they can get them for about $800 though I enquired some time ago . These use HKS's GT Pro outlet on the back so you may need to make a dump pipe for it . Cheers A .

180 JT , there is an American site called Handy Dandy Denny with ya or some such , do a search . Its mainly Z stuff but lots on transmissions . Basically the Nissan / Datsun gearboxes use a series number based on the number of mm between the main and layshaft centers . The series and options of the boxes is usually cast in the side of the case . The numbers and letters define the bellhousing type and bolt pattern , the shift mechanism , the shaft centers and possibly the syncro type . There are lots of variations that were model specific but the basics are as follows for the 71 series 6 cyl boxes . 240K - 71mm centers , servo (Porsche) syncros 1-4 , warner syncro 5th narrow gears , steel forks , steel front bearing cover / spigot , wide ratio . 260Z - same as above with closer ratios ie 2.9 1st , aluminium front bearing cover . 910 - FS5W71B - same but unique ratios ie 3.32 , 2.07 , 1.31 , 1 , 0.83 , alloy forks , all Warner syncros . Z18T - LZ5W71B - as above but wide ratio ie 3.6 1st , Z/L bellhousing . FJET - as above with Skyline ratios ie 3.32 , 1.906 , 1.31 , 1 , 0.83 . Wider gears , larger diameter syncro hub 1-2 , larger diameter 1-2 shift rod , FJ bellhousing . RB20T - RB71C as above with larger 3-4 syncro hub , C type shift mechanism , all large shift rods , larger front lay gear bearing (also used in Ser 3 bird) . Sub gear on front of laygear to prevent backlash at idle in neutral . As for the larger boxes used with VG30's , RB25T's , RB26's and RB30ET's I'm not sure of the specific numbers . I believe the shift mechanism is partly external on Z32's . I think the ratios are wider on the VLT box than R33 25T and the VL box may not have the twin cone syncro hubs .

This reminds me of the head coolant logs used on some competition specific cylinder heads ie L series FIA and LZ Formula Pacific twin cams . The riser pipes to the collector log are usually off center to make the water centrifuge back towards its outlet . I think a lot of work goes into avoiding steam pockets forming around the water jacket adjacent the exhaust side of the chamber and ports . When this occurs no localised cooling takes place . I have seen pics of Cosworth YB engines with drillings into the head castings and lines rising to a common header tank to vent steam pockets . It would be interesting to know what was done to Group A RB26's though freedoms may have been very limited . SK can you tell us your views on this . I'm not questioning the fabricators intent but would three -8 fittings pass enough water to cool a highly stressed engine ? , it looks to me as if it would not pass as much as the std set up . Just curious cheers A .

There are .63 ARR housings and .63 ARR housings . If its the poor old Nissan cast T3 housing reprofiled your on your own . This combination is known not to work properly . Garrett does make a proper .63 version of the GT30 84 trim housing which works well on FJ20's . If you must have an integral waste gate housing HKS do them in .68 and .87 for the PRO S version of their GT3037 which is the same CHRA as the GT30R and has the T3 flange . These housings are expensive but cheap compared to external gates and custom manifolds and good enough for the street . My opinions cheers A .

Now you've really got me curious , what is your aversion to properly soldered joints ? My preference is to use non insulated terminals that are mechanically wrapped around the wires insulation and the wings closest to the spade end soldered to ensure a gunge proof joint , this is then insulated with shrinkwrap . My tame guru's both came from the rally world so 100+ km/h through creek crossings needs serious long term electrical reliability . Soldered joints take longer and cost more but they usually stand up to hostile environments better IMO . The hineous crimp (pimp) connector is a bean counters rather than a engineers preference I feel . I've had many tell me that aircraft are flying around with pimp joint looms so I'll stick to cars trucks and locomotives , these roll to a stand when they cough and die ............. I'm not here to flame anyone , just like to know the opinions of others . Have a good weekend cheers A .

You could try a you pick it wrecker and comb every EFI Nissan in the joint . Be prepared to have a bastard of a time getting the spade connectors out of the plastic fittings . You can buy very expensive dedicated tools from Snap On , Wurth or Blue Point , or simpy hammer flat the end of a piece of MIG wire which is fine and very stiff . You can replace factory fittings with alternate OEM EFI stuff just remember to join the correct wires ! I though of another alternative , the Haltech (EFI Technology) people use GM style automotive weather proof connectors for their looms and will sell separatly or at least those in Taren Pt Sydney do . Hope this helps , cheers A .

Does anyone have pics of a GTR32 airbox out of the car and in pieces ? Thanks Adrian .

I thought I found a pair of Iron Mask headlights today at Just Jap but the outer reflectors are stuffed like mine . If no one is willing to sell me a good pair can the reflectors be repaired ie re chrome plated , does anyone do this in Sydney ? Cheers A .

I'll stay tuned here as I'm very interested in pics of engine and gearbox mounts for RB's in R30's . Pics of the wiring would be great . Cheers A .

Yes the L20 will bolt to the RB20 bell housing , you will need the larger countershaft bearing (std on N/A VL and Series 3 Bluebird) and the matching bearing cover/input shaft support . I think the L20 box has small style selector shafts so RB bellhousing may need to be bushed to support them .

Thanks Cubes , would it be possible to see the set up maps . I don't have any of this yet . Thanks A .

In std form the VG 30 ceramic BB turbo or its exhaust housing on the std RB25 ceramic BB turbo could work ok up to the ceramic turbines speed limit . These were fitted to a 3L VG 30 after all . Be wary of bush bearing hybrids using the VG/RB housings , the ceramic turbine is the only one that really suits them properly . Boring the exhaust housing out butchers the nossle section and it can't work properly . Unfortunately turbos of this size need to run at high shaft speeds to move enough air , and the bush bearing and thrust plate / collar affair won't stand this for too long . Apart from the above options there are no cheap answers . Cheers A .

I reckon the $1500 is better put towards an RB26 top end with its competition style multi throttle inlet/plenum . You also get better cams / springs / valves/ solid buckets and no dramas onto RB30 block . Good value really .

Thanks for doing this but what about the mechanical sections ie engine gearbox and diff , or am I reading it wrong ? Thanks A .

Actually the correct OD for the VL's T3 turbine is 58.9mm , same as FJ20 and Z18's . Nissan got the CHRA's from Garrett and cast their own housings for them which is why the comp covers often have Nissan Motor cast into them . Don't confuse these with the later ceramic BB turbos whose cores were made by Hitachi and whos only resemblence to the T3 is the exhaust mounting flange . Cheers A .

The GT40R uses a 77mm (3") 78 trim turbine in a .95 or 1.06 ARR turbine housing - huge got bigger . The compressor wheel is an 88mm (3 1/2") 52 trim in a .58 ARR compressor cover . From what I can find GT40 compressors can be 82 or 88mm . Ever noticed how some of the later GT BB's are closer in wheel diameters ie GT28RS (54 and 60mm) , GT3071R (60 and 71mm) , GT40R (77 and 88mm) . A theoretical GT3537R or 3576R depending on whose terminology you prefer sort of follows the same trend (68 and 76mm) . Also HKS spec turbos , when they knew the difference in compressor to turbine diameters was large they chose smaller trim compressors ie GT2540 - 46 trim , GT3040 - 50 trim . Extra airflow and an attempt not to overtax turbine shaft power . Compressor choise absolutely affects a turbines efficiency which affects backpressure and volumetric efficiency . High volumetric efficiency is probably difficult to achieve on a turbo engine given that the turbine , no matter how good , is at best a minor exhaust restriction . My understanding of high VE is where careful tuning of the inlet system gives a ram charge effect which overcharges the cylinder and gives very effective scavaging on the valve overlap period . Careful exhaust tuning can be use to create and area of low presure at the exhaust valve which also assists scavaging and cylinder charging . Turbos with a better ratio of compressor to turbine stand the best chance of allowing higher VE than the poorer spec ones . This broadly assumes the wheels are efficient to start with and the housings are appropriately sized . Just for laughs I scaled down the dimensions of a GT40R to that of a GT35R's turbine diamater and the 40R's ratio puts the compressor diameter at 77.71mm . This is a crude way to look at it but its a tad bigger than the GT37 compressor wheel (76.2mm) by 1.5mm but smaller by 4.29mm than the GT3540R's 82mm GT40 compressor wheel . Cheers A .

Quoted about $660 for bearings seals and balance (GT BB) . If the shaft or wheels need replacing its obviously more . Cheers A .

I got mine from Earls and don't quote me but I think it was an imperial 7/16 x 24 TPI inverted flare . It is critical to use that flare as the conical insert in the top of the housing locates the bearing pack . BB turbos need less oil than bush type (annular contact ball bearings have much less contact area) and if you dont restrict it the excess oil causes drag and oil seal leakage problems . Cheers A .

The turbo on the XR6 is the same CHRA as Garretts GT3540R , the turbine is 68mm dia and the compressor is 82mm . Its turbine is a GT35 series not GT40 . I have to agree about the size of its turbine - massive . While the GT30R's turbine is 60mm and probably a tad small I don't know of an in between size , maybe theres one coming . It makes me wonder how the VLT got away with a 60 mm T3 turbine though they supposedly had boost from 1500rpm ? I was told the state of tune was very low ie 7.8 CR and only 4-5 pounds of boost with no intercooler . I'll look into GT40R's and let you know the turbine details . Cheers A .

Should be interesting to see the real world results . Theory suggests that a .63ARR housing would mean that the GT35R is a little big , and as the turbine maps show mass flow drops with the ARR number . There comes a point where exhaust restriction overrules the advantage of high compressor flow capacity and a step down in turbo size with larger ARR housings may work better . It may be worth looking into lower ARR compressor covers to lower the boost threshold rather than the smallest available turbine housing . The Garrett engineers reckon the mid sized housings are where maximum efficiency is . I don't deny that I'm a bit fanatical about turbine inlet (back) pressure as it has so much potential to limit power and damage things - pistons mainly . The GT35R is really a Garrett hybrid of 35 series compressor with 40 series turbine , if the strait GT40R was scaled down the compressor would be smaller than the GT35R's . I've been trying to find out if the GT BB turbos can be rebuilt and or custom built , sort of like a GT35 turbine with a GT37 compressor . Its debatable if that compressor could feed an RB30DET at higher revs and boost but the turbine/housing would not choke it . I hate to say it but Ford may struck the righ balance with the large turbine housing and smaller E type cover on the GT35R . While I'm here I keep hearing whispers of new turbos and gated turbine housings from Garrett in the near future , anyone know what to expect ? It'll be a while before I get to this stage , cheers A .

The only question I have is that the inlet manifolds already have coolant water passages in them so the the heat will come from the coolant rather than the head casting . I'm always in favour of good gaskets that seal well , but the heat insulation would probably work better on non water heated manifolds such as the RB26's plenum section . My theory only , I'd reckon at high flow rates (revs/boost) the inlet air dosen't spend enough time in the manifold section to absorb much heat . I also think its desirable to have some heat in the inlet charge at idle and low engine speeds for fuel vaporisation meaning clean emissions and good fuel consumption . Cheers A .

The narrow ones for a mid 84 DR30 RSX with the Tekamon or Iron Mask front . Cheers A .

In Sydney , need a set of headlights or reflectors for the outer lights . Cheers A .

The Koyo one I have measures 20mm through the core (R32 GTR rad) . Cheers A .

Just for the record guys 4.3 means 4.375 and some call it 4.4 . $1000 is not a lot of money to spend on an LSD center . The std DR30 LSD needs work (plates) which would have to owe you $600 in parts and labour drive in drive out . So the grand for a brand newin pre set look pretty good . Cheers A .