discopotato03

Are any details available about the new T3 flange options ? The aftermarket is crying out for things like a T3 flanged .86AR housing for the NS111 turbine (GT2530 , GT28RS etc) . We also badly need some integral gate GT30 and GT35 T3 flange housings . Thanks A .

So far got the power supply relayed . Need to run the H4 high and low beam earths back to the std relays (heavier wire) and give the relays themselves a decent body earth . Only prob so far is that when turning lights off they stay on in the park light position . When turning the park lights on from off all is normal . Cheers A .

I managed to borrow a Nissan R30 manual yesterday and found out how they did it . They use a system of two relays and the combination stalk . When you turn the lights on the switch sends positive current from the fuse box to a common feed at the headlight bulbs , its a long way to the bulbs through tiddly wire with crimped joiners in the loom . The switch also sends positive current to relay no1 which is a switching relay (means connects one circuit or another not just off/on) which closes the contacts earthing out the low beam side of the H4 bulb . For high beam the switching relay is de energised and spring pressure closes the contacts on the alternate circuit which is the high beam earth return . The inner high beam lights are really simple , permanent earth at the lights and positive current switched through relay no 2 . When relay 1 earths the high beam lights it also earths relay 2 so all high beam lights work together . Where it all falls down is long runs of tiny wire (high resistance) with crimped joiners in the loom (high resistance joints) with all the positive current to the H4's carried by the 21 year old stalk switch (elderly high resistance switch) . The earth returns are also tiny high resistance with in loom crimp joints and tired 21 year old relays . Relaying the common supply to the H4s is easy , one std relay switched by the stalk supply carrying positive battery (or alternator) current to the bulbs . This fixes half the problem as the earths is the difficult bit . What I want to try is another two relays which when energised will connect the bulbs (high or low) earth return to the battery negative or chassis earth . I'll attempt to switch these relays through the cars original high and low beam earth returns , the positive side of the relay switch permanently powered off the battery . The inner high beams could be run off another relay carrying battery current and switched by their original power supply (relay 2) . What this should give me is battery current and earth via 5mm wire , all close to the lights and switched by relays controlled by the cars standard high resistance 21 year old std system . All the dash lights should work because all the original circuits are still in use , just not carrying any loads . Thats my theory and hope to have good lighting through the Iron Mask lights . Cheers A .

I think I need to get the stalk to trigger the new harness relays for best results . I don't want to earth the lights back through the original wiring as there is voltage drop on the earth as well as the positive side . I don't know if the inner lights will hack this but they've probably got voltage drop and need help as well . Cheers A .

I once had a bad experience with oil but it was the Penzoil mineral variety . The workshop I've been using for 16 yrs used to use Penzoil - the high performance 20W50 and the racing straight 50 . After a time the workshop started getting lube related failures with FIA cam profiles in L Series rally engines . Just prior to this Penzoil started packaging their oil in 5 litre containers here in Australia from imported 205 litre drums . It could not be proven but my mechanic suspects that the imported oil was being blended with local base stock oil to cut costs and discount the product . It cost me a re grind on an expensive billet camshaft plus most of the rockers were shot . My mechanic changed to Kendal mineral oils and no more problems . His preference is for mineral oils based on Pennsylvania (spelling ?) crude oil as it supposed to have the best properties for engine oils ie needs less in the way of additives to do its job . He believes good oil changed often is the answer , I guess the best oil on the planet is not much chop if its full of combustion by products and condensation . I've not used synthetic oils but I'm interested in the Castrol R 10W60 , who keeps it in Sydney and whats the damage ? Cheers A .

By this do you mean the relays switching earth ? Any help or diagrams greatly appreciated . By the way Im using 5mm wire which is overkill because I'm desperate for good lights with the iron mask front . Cheers A .

Spent all yesterday afternoon trying to rewire the headlights because of voltage drop on both sides of the circuit . We opened the loom up from the lights to the fuse/relay box junction but the wires run back through the firewall . The wires themselves are puny and have two or three crimped joiners in the loom . At this stage it was decided to make a new harness for the outer lights and trigger relays , powered directly from the battery , from the original nearside headlight wiring . We got all sorts of weird results ie one on not the other and high beams with the low beams on as well . I have a bad feeling all the answers may lie in the loom between the light control stalk and the firewall/fusebox . Anyone attempted this before , Ghostrider once said his PNE has an aftermarket headlight harness in it . Pics would be lovely thanks Ghostrider if possible . Cheers A .

Can I please have a link to the hybrid 33/32 speedo drive conversion , I searched but could not find . Thank you . Cheers A .

Yeah , all the RB25 housings I looked at have a larger passage internally . I once had all three side by side and they had different numbers cast into them . The VG30 version has a tad smaller comp wheel so spool should be a little better . The turbines all look the same so one up on the exhaust housing plus the next size up comp wheel (VG30) seems logical . The cheapest option would be just to change the turbine housing for the mid sized one and if its not enough then try the VG30 core and comp cover . Like some others here I'm more interested in average power than all up the top end , so absolute maximums are an afterthought . Too many people kill the bottom end power of engines like RB20's and it doesn't have to be that way .

Better as in can it make more power - yes . I would be wary of going up too far in size as I believe its very easy to loose the bottom end torque with RB20's . As I said I would change your RB20's exhaust housing for the mid or RB25 sized one . These housings are not difficult to find because plenty of people find out the hard way what happens when they ask too much of the std turbo on an R33 . When you go up in compressor size you give the same sized turbine more work to do which adds to lag . Slightly free flowing the exhaust side (turbo) and maybe a fiddle with the cam timing should help .

I'll assume you mean the Ceramic Turbined BB turbos . The VG30 version was designed to run an engine half as big again so response may be a bit lacking on an RB20 . However some use the RB25 BB turbo which uses a slightly larger compressor and cover . If you have access to the bits the RB25 type exhaust housing on the VG30 turbo should have reasonable mid range . When you look inside the turbine housings of the RB20/25/VG30 BB turbos the difference is staggering , with the smaller RB20 Version I'm amazed they go at all . The VG30 version is huge in comparison so the middle RB25 version would be a good start . Depending on which standard RB20 turbo you have you could always put the mid sized (RB25) turbine housing on the std turbo to reduce the restriction on the exhaust side . This would flow a little better and maybe give a bit more power per pound of boost than the std turbo . Cheers A .

Just for laughs did a search on D-Jetronic , was developed in the early 1960's and the first form of OEM EFI using some Bendix technology . The speed density system it used was very different to the Delco ones in Vomit Doors and Camiras . It had a flip flop style switching system incorporated into its soft ball sized MAP unit and fired its injectors in groups of two . The distributor had a couple of sets of points in its base as well just to confuse things . It was used in some early Mercedes Benzes Porsches and Type Three Dack Dacks (V Dubs) and other things no doubt . I doubt very much if AP Engineering copied anything off D-Jetronic to develop D-Jetro . Cheers A .

I have seen a couple of variations in R32 RB20 turbochargers , I think there's an early and a late . The one I used has 16V 11 cast into the compressor cover and for some strange reason has a compressor wheel that looks like the early RB25 type compressor , it has the anti reversion groove in the cover as well . I'm sure its R32 because it does not have the larger ARR cover that the RB25's have nor the bold block lettering cast into it . The three bolt out let was from an RB25 turbo and had the bolt hole centers moved to make it fit . It has the cast in tapped boss for the wastegate actuator which R33 25's don't have . I have seen other versions that use a different compressor (smaller with wider spacings between the full hight and spliter blades) . Probably a long shot but in one of the earliest editions of High Performace Imports magazine there was an article on the different versions of the RB20DET . It went into some detail on the various std RB20/25/VG30 turbos with several pictures . Hope this helps , cheers A .

T3G ? never heard of that one . Are you sure HKS did any T3's ?

Bosch Automotive Electrical / Electronic systems manual (5/87) states - Bosch K-Jetronic . Pure mechanical continuous injection system . Bosch KE-Jetronic with electronic controls for extra functions and flexibility . Bosch LE-Jetronic . Multi point electronic solenoid port fuel injection with vane or flap type airflow sensing . Bosch LU-Jetronic . As above with Lamda closed loop control (oxygen sensor) for countries with strict emissions legislation ie USA . Bosch L3-Jetronic . As above with ECU on air fow sensor (reduces cost of looms and no ECU in passenger compartment) . Digital . Bosch LH-Jetronic . Similar to last 3 but with hot wire air mass meter which measures air mass inducted by the engine . The result of measurement is thus independent of the air density which is dependant upon temperature and pressure . Bosch Motronic . this system combines both ignition and injection systems and controls both electronically . This covers the early Bosch injection systems . Many feel that EFI load sensing via a hotwire mass airflow sensor gives a more accurate idea as to how much air an engine is breathing . Some prefer Manifold Absolue Pressure sensing but its a measure of pressure rather than airflow . Doing it this way requires complex temperature corrections as air temperature is directly related to air density . The way I see it to achieve a set air fuel ratio say 14.7 to 1 we need to mix 14.7 units of air by mass to one unit of fuel by mass . Another drama is competition type induction systems with one throttle per cylinder such as the GTR or GTiR etc . Getting a suitable pressure signal at low revs and not much more than small throttle openings is difficult . To air pressure , its easy to use atmospheric pressure as a base line but lucky for us its not zero . Air pressure is generally measured in PSI-A (absolute) or PSI-G (gauge) . PSI absolute means zero is a total vacuum and anything above is positive pressure regardless of atmospheric pressure . PSI gauge assumes atmospheric pressure at sea level is ZERO , most compound boost gauges read like this . So these gauges read above and below atmospheric pressure . I find it hard to see the logic in a negative or below zero pressure but obviously once upon a time the powers that be though otherwise . Cheers A .

A friend of mine mentioned the acumulator too , I would be concerned about air leaks etc . Theres a lot of money and inconvienence riding on it working correctly and for long enough . I guess if your competing seriously and had the engine in bits I reckon the correct sump is the way to go . That smashed engine I saw had a modified sump and I think pick up but I don't recall seeing the trap doors . As food for thought the owner of that car sold it and the current owner has lost another two or three engines (not sure if its surge related) , so for my money I'd insist on the most reliable lubrication system I could get . Incidentally that sump was removed and re fitted from underneath which may or maynot have been easier than removing the engine to get at it . Cheers A .

Hi Sk , I think I saw that RB26 in bits and it was annihilated in no uncertain terms . Block holed , smashed pistons , broken girdle , stuffed crank , bent or broken valves and hammered head . From memory the oil pump was cracked through the case as well . I'm interested to know about the extra drain and any other mods to get oil from the top end back to the sump . With that engine above the fellow who pulled it down (AJ) wondered about windage in these engines at constant high rpm . I guess its not like a chain driven twin cam with the huge passage up front to help drain the oil from the head . Obviously it can be done well enough to survive 1000km at race pace so hopefully we can benefit from the R and D that Gibson Motor Sport did in the late 80's early 90's . Any inside clues or personal findings ? Thanks SK , A .

Rebuilt or new CHRA .

Sprucy those things look really rough , can vouch nothing Garrett about them . No doubt the PRChina will get better , Garrett needs to look out if they start manufacturing bearing and seal kits for GTBB Turbos . It seems the US turbo shops can rebuild the GTBB's , its only lack of spares that's stopping us ATM . Its high time Jeff got the finger out and started the ball rolling here .......................

The only difference externally with mine is where the oil pressure relief spring cap screws in , I think the std one is flush with the lower rail of the pump and the N1 version projects below the rail on the crank case side . I guess the N1 spring/s must be longer and slightly higher rate , SK tells me the the mechanical part of the two R32 pumps is identical . Cheers A .

T04S was getting into large frame turbos , T3/T04B/T04E all can use same bearing housing and shaft bush bearings/thrust plate . The shaft journal size was mainly 1/4" where T04S is the "big shaft" stuff . T04S compressor covers are quite large and commonly used with GT40 compressors on more modern turbos .

Nissan outlets probably won't know what an FJ20 is as they were never sold here . You could talk to Allen engineering at Mallala as they've done these engines . Its impossible to assess the cost untill the engine is out and stripped down as speculation is only guess work . As a drive in drive out rebuild using all genuine parts (Nissan) figure on a bill of about $4 - 5000+ . Thats for remove strip assess damage , bore hone new pistons rings bearings chains/guides/tensioners strip head , reshim new springs reassemble fit and start inc oil/filter/plugs gaskets seals welsh plugs etc . These are not a cheap engine to work on - very labour intensive . The chain drive and valve clearence system is very time consuming to set up and thats for people who know them . There are 2 chains and tensioners and 3 guides for the top cam chain . To set valve clearences , first measure them , remove cams/buckets/shim caps and select fit shims to match . For reliabilitys sake the head needs to be skimmed (.003) and valves/seats assessed . A far cheaper alternative is to buy another one that been done . If you are serious I know where there is one but its in Sydney so freight involved . The bite is about $2000 . Anyway talk to Craig and Adam Allen , they should be able to point you in the right direction . Its a shit of a situation (I was there once) . Cheers A .

Only available in .68 and .87 ratios , intended for RB20's and RB25's . GCG say they can get them at around A$800 . Probably cheaper than aftermarket exhaust manifold and external waste gate - if you size the parts correctly . Signed fanatical about turbine inlet pressure . Cheers Adrian .

Actually these things are out here in current Navaras and the bore size is 91.5mm for the std 83mm stroke . Me thinks the humble RB30 Block would not like to be sleeved that far , even for 3353 cc's ........................ But if it could with larger valves in that 26 head ........................... The yanks are fitting ser 1 VQ45 pistons in the VG33 for approx 3400cc .....

A bit of a wild card here guys , whilst sniffing around at an American site called Nissan Performance Magazine I saw mention of the Nissan VG33 . Its got me thinking that if an RB30 block was bored out and sleeved maybe the bigger bore pistons ie 89mm or whatever could be fitted . The trusty Casio says 3173cc's . I would discover this just after buying pistons ..........................