discopotato03

Garretts base line is the R34 BB ceramic turbos and their first aftermarket one (GT2859R) uses a smaller 62T version of the usual 76T NS111 turbine . They also had smallish turbine housings similar to OE . Not for the budget minded but BB centres seem to be the go in GTR turbos and I wouldn't go any other way given the effort to R&R RB26 twin turbos . Obviously there is scope to improve on the cast compressors GTRs turbos have and any aero smarts with less inertia will help . I wouldn't expect miracles with these cars given their 2568ccs and around 1500 Kgs to shift . GTRs would have to be the hardest of all Skylines to get good all round performance out of because they are the heaviest and have SFA more capacity and less than the usual valve train smarts to help out . Probably the most important things standard ones have is small light internals turbos in reasonably small housings . It's no great secret that a turbo engine relying on smallish turbo/s doesn't take very well to larger ones because the std ones were making a not real high tech low CR engine usable at round town speeds and revs . Minimum friction and lightest internals is the way ahead in GTR turbos IMO . A .

In my particular case I fixed 90% of my probs with cleaned up the engine and bay earths and running a new regulator and brushes - in the OE 80a Mitsubish alt . I suppose those that remember will wonder why I didn't go with the Maxima Hitachi ones but that's another story . Back at the alternator terminals my S2 R33 has the thin wires in pale green for the sense and white with a red trace for the light circuit . They come back out of the loom before the front eye fitting on the relay/FL box and go to those two plugs behind the washer bottle , green to the upper plug and the W/R to the lower grey connector pair . We did a voltage check on the green one and it was very close to the alts outlet at ~ 14.2V . In fact all voltage checks are now good including the battery poles which are about 0.2V below the alternators readings . Back to alternators . If you search Nissan forums in the US they use Nissan Quest alternators because they are around 125 amp and fit with a few simple mods . We didn't get Quests here , they are a VG30 or VG33 powered people mover bread loaf type thing . I didn't realise we had VG33s here but it turns out that 96-05 Pathfinders used them and they had 110a alternators with mounting ears more like RB alternators have . Most of the larger Nissan alternators have the wrong front case ie Maxima transverse VG and VQ V6 ones . And they are bulky meaning if you fight your std 80a Mitsy alt out and in good luck slipping the large case ones down through the looms and top rad hose , probably easier from underneath if you don't run the splash guard . Many auto sparkys don't like Hitachi alts and seem to prefer the Mitsy ones , some Quests and Pathfinders have Mitsy alts and I reckon if you get the right casings you can make high enough outputs to run most things . Cheaper than those blue painted bling alts too . From a bit of searching Pathfinder alts aren't real exy 2nd hand . Something I'm looking into is the OE GTR 90a alts because unconfirmed but they may be a family up from the 80a RB20/25 ones using 106mm dia rotors rather than 100mm ones . If the higher capacity longer stators and rotors go in them it may be possible to have a bolt on hybrid that would cover any performance mods like those 20a draw fuel pumps . Or with a bit of grinding and drilling the Pathfinder cases can work . A .

Actually peoples I took another look at this and yes it's not the best way to go about lifting alternator output voltage . I'm not an electrician and had a steep learning curve recently with RB alternators and R33 wiring systems . Basically early R series used Hitachi LR180 or LR190 alternators the 90 apparently being in GTRs , Just Jap reckons 5 more computers to run in them . Later R series went to Mitsubishi alternators in I think the 100mm rotor series . I haven't got to the bottom of the internal difference between the 80 and 90 amp ones but I think it could be a couple of extra windings in the stator with possibly the same rotor . BTW if anyone gets the 80a Mitsy rebuilt and can't find local support the regulator is same as EB Falcon . Now to R33s and wiring . I'm beginning to wish the coupes had the battery up front like the sedans do to get it closer to the alternator because it's a lengthy cable that goes under the drivers side and crosses over further back to get to the + battery pole . Today I'll be testing what the voltages are like from the alternator back to the bolt on the relay/fusible link box and to see if there is any difference between the two bolts ie the one from the battery cable . Something I didn't previously realise is that the alternator sense wire in many cars splices back into the main feed out of the alternator so it's sensing what the alternator is putting out voltage wise , not what voltage the battery is actually getting . On one site I was at the sensing can be described machine sensed or battery sensed , machine being the alternator . Some of the 4WD crowd are getting good gains by running an extra parallel feed from the alternator to the battery and moving the sensing point from close to the alternator to the battery itself . You can imagine a situation where because of voltage loss in old looms the battery may only see 13 or less volts and never charge right up . The right way to make sure the alternator senses what the battery is getting is to use it as an alternator sensing point but you also need to make sure that you don't have significant loss between the alternator and the battery . When last tested my car showed I think 1/2V loss from the alternator to the battery and my EMS shows 14.2V at cold start and around 13.8 hot in the daytime . Ideally I'd like to have 14.2 hot running at the alternator and as close as possible to 14 at the battery so we'll see what can be done . I may not get that sense point all the way to the back but maybe the battery side of the under bonnet relay box may help if there's any loss between there and the alternator . I also need to trace where in that relay box the wires on the external plug connectors go (behind washer bottle) , especially the upper one that's full of white gunk . More later cheers A . Uh BTW I have not seen what the Nissan spec is for voltage output at the alternator itself , Australian/European Z32 300ZX NA and TT is 14.1 to 14.7 volts and aside from layout specifics an R33 probably isn't significantly different . Can someone with a full R33 WSM in English look this up please . Cheers A .

I'm not 100% certain but that doesn't look like a 0.70 AR T04S compressor housing to me , the back plate doesn't look big enough in diameter and all the T04S back plates I've seen from Garrett were cast iron not aluminium for bush bearing cores - and the larger BB T4Rs ie P/60-1 and T04Z . I suspect it is the relatively unknown 0.70 AR version of the T04B family which uses the standard T04B back plate . The 0.70 AR B housing being a larger ratio would flow a bit more than the 0.60 AR version and not be as bulky as T04E or T04S compressor housings . A .

Or add all the costs up and compare that to buying a factory GTR .

This is an interesting read from a Fourby site called IH8MUD.COM . I can't post links ATM so search Alternator Regulator Voltage Booster Modification - Part 1-Introduction . Interesting because some of these four wheel drives are from our Skyline era and Japanese manufactured . If you can post the link I'd appreciate it . Cheers A .

Where practical higher voltages have the advantage of lower current flow which is why many trucks have 24 volt systems , to keep the current levels sane . It must be 20 odd years ago BMW were contemplating 36 volt car electrical systems , one thing mentioned was really fast electrical heating abilities of higher voltages for the cats and 02 probes they were looking into . Was never going to work at 12 v . Higher voltages would allow manufacturers to use thinner lighter cheaper wiring because with higher voltages you have lower current flow so don't have to allow for the thermal loadings of higher current flow . Ever wondered why some wires in your loom are impossibly thin , it's because they have very low current requirements . Some are quite heavy because they are designed to cope with high current flows which would overheat thinner wires with the same current flow at the standard voltage . Anyway I am talking about a whole half a volt not 5 or 10 and if you can take some of the current load off the electrical system and its components without damage I don't see it being any disadvantage . Actually I was here 20 plus years ago in the days of the Bluebird , it had a Bosch alternator beefed up to I can't remember how many amps capacity with Bosch Holden guts . It also had a optional voltage reg made to run 14 .7 volts instead of the standard 14.2 . The only drama it had was a 7 volt tap for the original carby choke heater and at start you had to give it a rev to make it start charging . Everything ran bright and it never burnt or boiled anything . A .

I notice that people at times have charging issues and alternators that put out less than optimal voltage levels . I'm told that with higher voltage you have less current doing the electrical work so lower voltage levels are not good . I did some research and it seems that the greenies have bitten into automotive engineering with charge systems - basically slightly lower charge voltages need less engine power to drive alternators so I'm thinking late engines may show better consumption - and emissions numbers particularly at cold start . My understanding is that with a healthy alternator its regulator sets the output voltage and as long as it's spinning fast enough and the amperage draw isn't exceeding its capacity it should maintain the correct system voltage . Alternators from our Skyline era (say 1989-2000) generally have three wires attached . The big ones are the current output and the two smaller ones are for the dash warning light and a battery voltage sense line . My experience is that alternators charge at a slightly higher voltage in a cold engine bay and drop off as the engine bay heats up . My S2 GTS25T starts out at around 14.2V with the coolant at 20C but once warm ends up at around 13.8-13.9V standing in daylight with the hand brake on ie no lights including brake ones . No AC sound cig lighter or obviously demister going . This is with the OE Mitsubishi 80a alternator too . As a side note Just Jap tell me only GTRs got the 90a version for the five extra computers etc they have to run . Anyhow from my readings it seems that it wouldn't matter if you had a 200a output alternator if the voltage regulator regulates at 13.8 volts hot then that's the highest voltage level you're ever gonna get regardless . Enter the simple dirty cheap but apparently reliable fix . That battery sensor wire tells the alternators charge reg what the battery voltage is and if it's low then the regulator get more generous and makes the alternator put out higher voltage . A simple method to trick it is to put a diode in the sense line that makes the regulator think the battery voltage is around half a volt lower than actually is so it charges half a volt higher than it normally would . So in theory I'd get 14.7 volts at cold start dropping to 14.3 at running temperature . The thing to know is that an alternator will charge a battery faster at a higher voltage than it will at a lower voltage and a cold start takes a significant amount of current out of a fully charged healthy battery . A battery is called that because it is a battery of six 2.1 volt cells and the best it can put out without help is 12.1-12.2 volts if there is zero loss in the wiring which is never . So give it a dead short across the starter motor to turn over lazy flock of a cold RB and it takes a fair bit of current out . The 4WD camper people are all over this with their multiple battery systems to charge , they often use two and isolate the cars one so they can drain the auxiliaries overnight to keep the cans cold and still start in the morning . Deep cycle batteries can be drained reliably and still charge up . With us if higher voltage means less current is needed to drive our go fast bits this should be good . You'd think 14.4 volts to things like coils injectors and fuel pumps has to help because low voltage to these things never does . It's the higher current draw from lower voltages that increases resistance and heat at inadequate parts of the system . Higher voltage requires less current draw to do the same work but don't get too greedy with voltage . The things to look into would be firstly a healthy alternator because giving a ailing one purple hearts will probably only take it out faster or damage other things . Secondly higher voltages into batteries in some circumstances can make them boil the water component of their acid away faster . Some us are lucky that the battery isn't in the engine bay so it isn't copping heat from the engine or radiator . Still have to check the levels periodically . Always check voltage output at the alternator if you have voltage drop anywhere in the electrical system , the output could be fine there but lost to old or inadequate wiring , bodgy mods etc . Could be high resistance wire joins to terminals or bad earths . Factory looms have crimp joins inside them and they can be iffy if aged or corroded . 1989-2000 was 14 to 25 years ago so my 96 wiring system is 18 years old , old enough to vote ... Anyway if the system is good - or made good - but the alternator only wants to loaf along at 13.8 volts fooling the sense wire may be a way to get better performance from factory fitted - but in good condition (freshened up) alternator . I have read about some late cars charging as high as 15 volts but I think the Power Train Control module or PCM has a say in when they do it . I don't know if they need fancy batteries or temp sensors to do it reliably but with the electrical bullshit in "modern" cars now days nothing would surprise . Thoughts ? Cheers A .

The theory is that you can do that but the gate would need a lightish spring so that it acted as a bypass and a pressure relief valve . It would take a bit more juggling to control the waste gate so that you got sufficient boost higher up the rev range . The engine probably doesn't care which way the exhaust gets out ie turbine outlet or waste gate path , but with a smaller AR turbine housing the waste gate needs to start opening at the point where exhaust manifold pressure starts to creep up on inlet manifold pressure to keep the system in regulation . I always reckoned that a 0.73 AR turbine housing would be a better compromise for some people with RB25s but only HKS ever made them and in T2/25 mount flange . If you went external gate and made a T3 to T2/25 adapter you may be able to fit it on a stock manifold RB25 with the gate off the housing . A lot of stuffing around . A .

What Scotty is saying is to run six small tubes , one from each runner , into a small volume collector so that you get a more consistent manifold pressure reference signal . You are basically mimicking what you have with a single throttle/plenum chamber inlet system but in small scale to get a usable - for the computer - pressure reference signal . A .

I found them last night - R33 wiring Diagram pdf . A .

Hi all , I have a 96 S2 which has a key pad immobiliser fitted and the wiring is iffy . Because I can't easily get R33 wiring diagrams can anyone post diagrams of the ignition wiring and also the four relays on the side of the interior fuse box . From the R33 Nissan Fast I found I gather the middle two are accessory relays and the upper and lower are ignition ones . Reason for all this is I want to redo the immobiliser . Also I am getting a voltage drop on the accessory (cig lighter) side and a certain device is picking up power here but has been known to play up if it doesn't get a good clean 10.5 volts . I shameless , if anyone has the full R33 WSM in English on CD I'm happy to pay for a copy of it . Nothing like having full factory wiring diagrams cheers Adrian .

I search but could only find the R33 engine manual . Can someone point me towards the full R33 WSM (not necessarily GTR) in English please . Cheers Adrian .

Literally the only difference between a GT3037 Pro S and a real GT3076R is the turbine housing and the bell mouthed inlet insert . I don't think there is much if any difference actuator wise at the same rating . A .

That's for the housing alone BTW .

Has not been back on the rollers yet , on E85 it would be disappointing to see less than 300 given the overall package . If using a std or Z32 MAF consider keeping the factory airbox and snorkel because it goes a long way to hiding the front 2/3 of the turbo . Scotty inlet or one like it is a must here . Pods scream modified A .

Yeah they bite pretty hard under 30 .

Manifold spacer/longer studs/Scotty inlet tube/GT30 IW Dump/elbow off comp housing (stainless mandrel or aluminium bend in 2") water and oil lines . I'd stay RIGHT away from Nismo 550 side feeds . Soon I'll have a set of 740s in the rail for RB25 if interested . Or convert to EV14s as mentioned with an aftermarket rail . A .

If you'll take 300 plus post to Sydney 2230 PM me , your PMs must be full ATM . Adrian .

Can you post the part number on the side of the flange plz . Need to know if it's the large flap version and that its seat is good . Do you know the history of this one , cheers Adrian .

Found a couple of typo silly mistakes in crank enrichment and time out going back a couple of revisions so fixing this should be straightforward . Basically not enough crank enrichment for too long , decimal point one step wrong way on timeout . A .

You do both bars in an Evo , front involves a bit more work but worth it . Std optional Bilsteins and stock springs aren't too bad . Flash the ACD computer with Ralliart settings and it gets pretty tight . People I know got almost 250 with a factory 7 turbo fitted with one of GT Pumps larger turbine housings and a better IC hot pipe - on E70 . FIC squirters and flash tuned std computer . Mivec 9 engines get better cams plus inlet VCT to go with the bigger diffuser and compressor housing . I'm told that with the right mechanical diff centres back and front they make shit to a blanket look loose . Really neither 9 or GTR is cheap to own and work on , I agree late Evos are later cars and development went on longer with them than GTRs . 1992 was pretty much game over for GTR in competition on an international scale where 99-2000 was about it for competition spec Evos . I think 9s went up to around 2006 where GTR was finished in about dunno 2002-3 ? Somehow Ralliart and Mitsubishi funded development programmes for Evos after Nissan gave up serious development on GTRs and was more interested in survival than anything else . A .

It winds over ok but it takes a little longer to fire than I'd like . I don't remember it being like this on E70 . It may need a bit more cold cranking timing to light up a slower burning fuel like 85% ethanol . A .

I think the hypocrites learned to hate the GTRs because they broke too many inflexible prides . I guess if you can't see past the bigger is better slogan you deserve the therapy bills or chronic alcoholism . The silly thing is that the Sierras cleaned up the "big bangers" and the GTRs rounded them up in their time . Had the 4WD Sierra Sapphire thing been in the race history may have been different . GTR is harder to compare to an Evo because it is more comfortable and not quite as hard edged , this is not to say less capable just probably not as sharp . I don't think an Evo would stay with a GTR outright speed wise but I think a standard one might just stand up to hard lapping a bit longer because they have the edge cooling wise . Brakes would last longer because they are lighter cars and I think the AWD is possibly easier on tyres than the GTRs front assist system . Also I think the std front diffs may be a bit fragile in GTRs . In twisty windies I think an Evo would be more nimble with less weight up front to make change direction . I'll agree theres a bit more involved doing transmission work on an Evo compared to a GTST/GTt but GTRs are hardly easy , I remember being under a 32 on a hoist and it was a three man effort to R and R the gearbox . I never want to do TT changes on a GTR , huge PITA . Easily worth having the HKS TS manifold and gate and one of Garretts T4 TS BB turbos - or a TS IW EFR . A .

I started using it about a week ago in small amounts to get the old 50 50 mix out . When filled the first half tank only got me 170 kays but that included a bit of road tuning . Have two dramas ATM , the Tech Edge is playing up and I'm not sure if its the box the probe or a power supply issue . Taking the box and probe down to them next week and if the box tests ok I'll get another LSU 4.9 probe and they can calibrate the box for it . Stone cold starting is difficult ATM but once it fires it seems ok . I've imported the original tunes warm up map after mucking around with mine and It'll get another cold start this evening . I probably need to get one of my Maxima alternators in so there's a bit higher output to cover everything . The original Mitsubishi has 140+ on it and is probably tired . I was going to see where you were up to next week if the TE gear checks out ok , a plug change would be good too . Cheers A .