discopotato03

Is IPF a brand or type of globe ? Again can someone PLEASE tell me how to adjust the inner Takamon lights to the left so they dont point strait ahead . My car has thin std headlight wiring , but short plug in sections of heavier gauge wire . Are all 84 models the same ? Cheers A .

I need a rear windscreen wiper motor and arm for 6/84 DR30 2 door , four door one may be the same .

Yes thats the plan , I reckon the GT30R not pushing stratospreric boost should come on reasonably early (and not hit like one of our locomotive hauled superfreighters) but not choke up on the exhaust side . My jury's still out with exhaust housings , I dont want/need high boost pressures and because GT30 turbines are very high flowing for their size I don't expect to get high turbine inlet pressure . If this is the case I may not need an external waste gate and could possibly get away with using one of the HKS T3 flanged GT30 integral gate housings which come in .67 and .87 ARR's . Going this way would save money and inconvienence , also has that vaguely factory look . Finding a dump pipe may be difficult though . Some of this will depend on which exhaust manifold I use , there may be a cast iron HKS item availabe down the track . Anyhow off out to be entertained by Austin/Nickols and act like a the sphincter of the universe - can't type in Swahili ! Cheers Adrian .

Ghostrider as you know mine will have a 26 head and inlet plus about 9 to 1 CR . My current plans are to use a GT30R (700382-12) . This turbo may not have a huge amount of head room for 3.1 L but its torque I'm after at lowish boost levels . I think efficient breathing is what it takes to make torque and response , hence the RB26's throttle per cylinder , better cams , higher static CR to give good part throttle torque and fuel economy . That particular turbo (GT30R) is a good balence of turbine and compressor flow and should easily work up to the max of one bar that I would use . I don't seek a boost or RWKW number just lots of torque for the road and easy progressive power delivery . While there's no doubt a GT3540R will make good power on an RB30 will it be friendly in a road car . For me the first 3/4 of the power curve is more important than the last 3/4 . This is where my prioritys lie . Given that Ford used a GT3540R on the 4L XR6 it would have been interesting to see what Nissan would have used if the RB30DET had gone into production in the late 1990's . Cheers A .

In the near future will be looking for a late (93/94) R32GTST Skyline . I've been in one that had 16x6.5" wheels and four piston front calipers . Does this make it an "M" spec and or what other differences exist . Are very clean std examples around and is 13 to 15 G's about the going rate ? I prefer white or light silver/grey , were these std colours ? Any advise what to look out for much appreciated , Cheers Adrian .

Out of interest whay body types did these cars come in , I've seen a two door and a passage but what about four door like the locally built cars . Also did all the IRS models have the half baked rear steer mod ? Thanks A .

The L24E's are no real power house but adequate for the market they were aimed at . The MR30 sedan and hatch are reasonably heavy for a 2.4 liter SOHC two vale engine with fairly basic management . This is why complete L28 conversions work well . Its the part throttle torque that feels more effortless to drive . With the low cost of RB30E's I'm surprised more of these don"t wind up in MR30's . A much nicer engine with more sophisticated controlls and great fuel economy to boot .

What mods are needed for the RB26 PFC to run a GTST/S4 , I'm interested also . Cheers A .

A water / air intercooler could be worth a look , at least the air plumbing would be easy .

As posted elswhere the RB20T box is the last and strongest of the 71 series boxes . I went to a lot of trouble to put these guts into FJT caseings with reasonable success . If there was a next time I'd just modify the FJ bellhousing (need someone to accuratly bore the lower bearing hole and use the RB's front cover plate) and fit it to the RB71 box . I would never try to mix and match the early extention and selector bits again . We had to braze two speedo drive worms together as they were moved on the RB mainshaft and do not line ip with the early extentions hole . I have heard of people welding up and re-drilling the top two bolt holes and locating dowel , I reckon doing the FJ's housing mod is cheaper and simpler .

Earls sell the correct fitting which from memory is 7/16 x 24 TPI inverted flare , but check with them . Its designed to be adapted to -4AN braided line fittings and not very expensive . Cheers A .

Hello Phantom and all , I went to some trouble to make sure that the hot water return line was up hill from the turbo to the cooling system before the thermostat . Please note that FJ20's have the thermostat in the top hose not the bottom one like RB's . It is often more convienent to have both water banjo's facing down on the turbo but it makes the turbo water jacket the high point and will not thermosyphon . Water boils into steam which wont keep the core temperature down and cannot escape. Did your turbo sieze or did it damage the wheels ? I gather that most of these engines wind up in R32/33 Skylines so I guess the GTR intercooler / radiator placement in those cars should be optimal ? It seems that lots of people go to tremendous efforts to put huge FMIC's in front of radiators and lose cooling efficiency which affects reliability . I think Sydneykid did once mention how much power the GMS GTR's were making with a standardish ? intercooler . My prioritys are normal coolant temps which to me means around 80-85C then worry about intercooling capacity . This cooling problem tends to rear its ugly head with engine transplants ie RB's in S13's or FJ20's in Bluebirds as its very differend to what the factory did with its original models . Airflow is critical to cooling both air and water so if you can make it easy to get into and out of the engine bay you've got a fighting chance . The radiator I'll start out with is a Koyo R32 GTR item that measures 20mm core thickness , it only has a sing row of tubes and made a hell of a difference to the Bluebird which had elec fans and a large FMIC . Cheers A .

Blind-elk the important think to realise is that combustion chamber shape is critical in the war against detonation . Often what works for high compression NA motors works with forced induction as long as the CR is appropriate . This is why a lot of effort goes into shapes that offer lower detonation threshold but I dont know of any turbo specific ones . With some of the L series 4's the chambers had very little or no quench zones in an effort to lower NoX emmisions with carburettors/leaded fuel, and the CR was quite low (Ser 1 Bluebird 8.4 CR) . You may need to read some books on the L series in competition , one I have is called How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine (HPBooks No 537) . While this was first published in 1986 it has stacks of useful data and an insight into the L6 engines turbocharged for various classes of tarmac racing in the US . As far as your L20a goes , its only useful to someone who want's to keep an original car standard . Unfortunatly its the rarest and smallest of the L6's so not highly desirable , pistons and rings would be very hard to source so most would go to a common and cheap L24/26/28 . If they were going to use alternate engine management the only useful part on the L20ET would be the exhaust manifold - maybe . Every item in that engine can be improved upon with other standard L6 bits . Sorry if this is not the answer your looking for but throwing money and time at it may not pay off .

I like it when they let me turn on the siren !

Blind-Elk , logic suggests that if the AFR's / timing and boost levels are sane it could be made to work fine . The greatest challenge would be engine management if the factory L20a injectors / vane type AFM / and ECU are used . I looked into the specs of the L20a (78 x 69.7) vs L24 (83 x 73.7) and the cylinder volumes of 333 vs 399cc's . The L20a's were unique in bore and stroke where the L24 is basically a six cylinder L16 . I have never seen the turbo off a L20a but I'm sure it was aimed at pulling the bottom end and mid range out of six very small cylinders . Upping the capacity 20% with dinosaur vintage turbos should be a snap . My first try would be the later .48AR housing type T3 found on the intercooled FJ's , these engines come on boost at 2200rpm and pull real well up to about 6800 with 498cc cylinders . I would be trying to get good low boost performance without overtaxing the flow capacity of the AFM . Actually if you could get the system off the turbo L28 it should work real well . Getting back to the L24 , the L26 uses the same bore (83) but the stroke of the L28 so with std Nissan bits gets you 2565cc or 2690cc with 85mm pistons in the L24 block . Another thing to note is the early (1982) heads are much better than the later L24E items with the cast in afterburners . The early chambers are more like the heart shaped L16SSS heads and offer much better squish to fend off detonation plus 35mm exhaust valves . This is probably getting a bit long winded and your budget will dictate how far you go . If you take the modest option the above mentioned turbo should work OK . I feel the larger exhaust housing type will cost bottom end while the std AFM will cost top end . Have fun A .

Don't be scared to shorten those Turbo water banjo bolts , they can be ground or cut shorter and the thread dressed up to suit . Just dont overtighten them too much and deform the banjo itself .

I'd say proportional to the airflow increase . As you would know there is a lot of interchangeability with L Series sixes . All the blocks are the same height and all the heads physically interchange . The larger capacity versions are cheap and available and externally the same size . There are a multitude of different EFI inlet manifold / throttle bodys for the L six . I would not limit myself to the L24 unless it was cost (ie you may have one) or class capacity for racing . I'm sure you could rat up an L28 and provided the L20A Turbo's exhaust manifold is free flowing enough could work OK . Now to that T3 , the larger exhaust housing from the earlier non intercooled FJ20ET is .63AR . I personally would use the Garrett 5 bolt T3 housing and waste gate flap plate as it was designed around the larger of the two OD sizes for T3 turbines . Anyhow either type should work and give something like std RB30ET performance but without the smooth manners and fuel consumption that more modern engines and management gives . Whats happening with the RB 25/30 you built ??????????

Yeah , just bare struts . If interested send me a PM .

Brake upgrade easy DR30 stuff back and front . If you need some bare DR struts let me know . Some Navaras and 720 trucks used the same front caliper . Rears , use DR disks and fixed section of DR calipers . Supposedly R32 RB20 mounts bolt RB30 onto MR30 cross member . Some have used the R32 brake master and booster to get clearence for the back of the twin cam inlet manifold , don't know with single cam inlet . I suspect the Z18 Turbo Bluebird booster will bolt into R30 and use the std master cyl . Lucky I've got one . Will need RB radiator , R30 ones truly jurasic . Power steer pump , best to use DR30 if you can make it fit right pressure for power steering BOX . RB's used late style RB71 gearboxes , longer/stronger/different shift mechanism . VL NA manual box virtually identical to R32 RB20DET , different speedo gears for 3.45 rear gears compared to 4.1/4.375 . Out of time Chow A .

Ookami thanks for that , sorry to be a pain but could we have one from the back of the turbo if possible . Thanks A .

Sorry people , that should have read six 330 odd cc cylinders not six 400cc cylinders . The number of exhaust putts and how far appart in crank degrees probably has an affect from the turbines point of view .

RSX84 did you get anywhere by removing the lenses and cleaning the reflectors ? I've just put 90/100's in mine for a monor improvement . To adjust the beam there are two stalk/screws one above the other which both adjust height ? I cannot seem to adjust the beams from side to side , any idea what gives ? Thanks A .

SR20 is a 4 cylinder with approx 500cc cylinders firing 180degrees appart . RB20 is a six cylinder with approx 400cc cylinders firing I think 120 degrees appart . Bore /stroke and rod/stroke ratios would make a difference as would porting/valve sizes and cam profiles .

Inabox , what exhaust housing is being modified to take the GT30 turbine ? I know HKS do two T3 flanged integrally gated GT30 turbine housings , in .68 and 87 which can be had on their GT2835 Pro S and GT3037 Pro S turbos . Garrett will do themselves a favour by producing something similar . I agree about the 1.06 housing on the BA's GT3540R , there needs to be a .82 as well . Can you confirm if the .50 comp cover is a TO4E ? Thanks A .

I'm no expert but I think you'll find the head stud pattern different between RB25 and 26 so not just a direct swap thing . Probably cost and complexity dictates single is way to go , later BB turbo technology helps lots too . Just my two cents worth A .