discopotato03

Interesting concept , not sure how the AFM would cope with positive pressure on it . Computer may go slightly haywire because post turbo air will not be ambient temperature so its in built corrections may be all wrong . Advantages may be higher flow because of higher than atmospheric pressure on its inlet side but its debatable whether it can generate a suitable signal voltage for the higher mass flow , my guess is not . Unless its impossible to package for some reason I'd run it like Nissan intended it , why re-invent the wheel . Just my two paseo's worth , A .

RB180SX , just been back to the HKS USA site the compressor inducer should be 57mm for a 56 trim comp wheel . The turbine exducer diameter should be 55mm . If you look at the HKS GT3037 Pro S version they mention two T3 flanged integrally gated exhaust housings in .68 and .87AR . The exhaust outlet is called GT Pro and if anyone has pics of it I'd like to see them . Its pretty obvious the .68 is aimed at RB20DET's and the .87 at RB25DET's . Brett Lloyd of GCG Turbos (Condell Park Syd) sells some HKS Turbine housings seperatly and may have these as well . If they can be obtained either of them on the back of a GT30R should make an easy convienent conversion on a single turbo RB six , always assuming the compressor cover cleared everything and same with the waste gate actuator . Not having seen the GT Pro outlet I'm not sure what elbow pattern it uses . HKS sometimes makes these things vehicle specific so it may be like the RB20/25 outlet . So many choises , cheers A .

RB180SX that looks like the one . If you do a search on HKS USA it gives the trims and inducer/exducer diameters .

Yes to the port shrouded .60 AR covered six blade unit . This turbo's (GT30R) part no is 700382-12 and is sold without turbine housing . 704902-1 and -2 are the part no's for 1.06 and .82 AR exhaust housings . DO NOT FIT BORED OUT T3 or T04 exhaust housings as the nozzle section is different and does not work properly with the GT type turbine .

The propper GT30R has the .60AR port shrouded T04E comp cover . Look in the Garrett PDF for the part number . It is the same CHRA as the 56 Trim HKS GT3037 , the compressor cover is also port shrouded on the HKS GT3037S . Instead of the four milled grooves it uses a seperate section and looks like a narrow circular channel outside the funnelled inlet . Cheers DPO3 .

Common fallacy . HKS do not make compressors or turbines , Garrett do theirs for them . HKS generally option the compressors with free flowing turbines so that the engine can have less exhaust restriction when operating in a pressurised environment . Always remember when our engine inhales more air to burn more fuel to make more HP it also puts out more exhaust , which has to get around the turbine .

You could look into using bits off the R32 GTR ie filter and intercooler , with the appropriate fixings they are a factoty fit and look . The only mod required is the plumbing from the throttle body to meet up with the GTR intercooler outlet . Generally the easiest if not cheapest upgrade bits come from the highest performance model of the type ie R32 and GTR . The parts are all factory engineered to suit the type . Most things off the GTR can fit into the GTST but the floor pans are slightly different so forget about the AWD transmission . If you wanted this buy a GTS4 or GTR .

I have to say this though it'll make me a target . The problem is not necessarily a lack of skill though three years of driving cannot build twenty years of experience . I believe the issue is a psycological one , invincible is what the young believe they are . They are far more likely to take the sort of chances that older individuals wouldn't dream of . Life is a precious thing so learning to hurry slowly is good advise . If more young drivers could adopt a RESPONSIBLE attitude towards driving this issue would not be with us . Dont ever forget a drivers licence is a privelage not a right . Young hoon driver , I lived through it and have the benefit of hindsight . Will you live to see your 30's ?

Trouble is guys and gals the statistics don't lie , do you want to drive legally or drive dead ? I don't want my life to be at risk because some young fool drove way beyond his/hers and or the cars ability to be piloted SAFELY . Young people don't buy or should I say obtain fast cars to go slow . A vehicle in the hands of a maniac is a lethal weapon , flame me all you like but if you loose a friend or family member the reality may sink in .

In Garrett speak a GT30R uses a BCI 18C (76.2mm/3" six bladed 56 trim) compressor wheel . To be technically correct its a GT37 series comp wheel . Too many people claim a turbo is a GT30 because it has the UHP (Ultra high Pressure Ratio) GT30 Turbine . This is why HKS call theirs a GT3037 , 30 series turbine with 37 series compressor . Also why 3040's use 30 series turbine with 40 series compressor and so on with 3540's , 2835's etc . Confusion exists because some firms name a turbo from is wheel diameters ie ATP sells a 3071 or 30 series turbine with 71mm compressor . The two you mention look like GT3040's with different AR turbine housings . If they are seven blade 82mm compresors it dosen't get much worse . I didn't look to see what engine you have but if its a RB25T most at this site see the GT30R as ideal if not a smidge large . I only ever drove one std R33 GTS and for 2.5 L is was no torque animal . If I had one it would wear the GT30R on a good cast manifold . My two paseos only , Cheers A .

FJ alternators wasy . Aust spec Bluebirds (910 Ser 1,2) were fitted with Bosch alternators . Mine had the longer stator and rotor for 80a output . I also had the higher volt (14.7) integral regulator . Parts for these earlier alternators are getting thin on the ground , particularly the high output reg mine is an Ingrams , but they can be made to fit . The chief drama is the bulb check relay systems on Aust spec cars. The alt on mine refused to kick in and charge when started unless the engine got to 1300/1400rpm . Stay with the std Hitachi , better quality and reliability .

R33/25 BB turbo used with the VG30 BB turbos exhaust housing gives the most power potential . However the three litre exhaust housing is rather large from an AR point of viewso not sure where it will start to do something on an RB20 .

Make sure you get the propper six bladed compressor not the seven bladed TO4S version . It will also have a .60 AR port shrouded compressor cover .

Your trying very hard to assess bush bearing B and E stuff here . B stuff is Durassic Park aerodynamically speaking and E wheels are 3" diameter . Garretts T3/TO4E hybrids (properly known as the TA34 Series) specifically used small trim compressors (E series) to get the drive requirements (shaft torque) down to where the turbines could reasonably cope . I kid you not , ever seen a 37 trim TO4E wheel ? They do actually work but there are better ways to get the job done . I'd look into a GT2871R (Garretts version of the GTRS) and buy seperatly a HKS 64AR T3 flange housing for its NS111 Turbine . The aim is cheap compared to HKS and with minimal work bolts up . Chow a .

Simple really , if all else fails take it to an auto electrician - they do this for a living .

Please don't confuse noise with resonant vibration and remember a 3" exhaust is a great engine steady . I would start with a flex joint and use propper mufflers . My experience is hanging huge straight through mufflers at the very end the tail pipe achieves little . The sound pressure waves and gass flow take the least path of resistance which is out the back rather than into the packing . If you can find room I'd put the most effective mufflers in the middle . Lots of people will disagree but a 3" pipe is overkill on a two litre road motor particularly with that std turbo . 2.5" would have been fine with a reasonably std engine .

I have not looked too far into injectors yet , by four pintle do you mean four hole like the Rochester injectors ? Are these the disc style rather than pintle or needle valve type injector . Cheers A .

You may do well to read the R33 RB30 thread . Torque is what feels good and if you can put together even a budget RB30 (using the std N/A pistons) its good value . It's also a good learning exercise . When looking at Kw figures remember its a number made up of torque multiplied by engine rpm . I believe the car manufacturers have engineered their own market so to speak , more is better so the highest number wins . An engine that developes medeocre torque but has a high ie 9000rpm redline can boast a high Kw output figure . But whats the output at typical round town or highway rpm's ? I reckon a more honest approach would have been Kw figures taken at say 100km/h type rpm's in the vehicles most direct transmission ratio at wide open throttle . Enough of my ramblings , if it were me I'd go three litre and do some not too extreme bolt on's . Chow A .

Steve Thompson did my three button sprung center clutch . It uses sintered iron buttons rather than sintered bronze . I got three years out of it and its been rebuilt and in my current car . Steve was good enough to take me into his work shop and plan a clutch around my needs . From std to extreme I would not go anywhere else . Cheers , Adrian .

Just a thought it would be interesting to know the weights of the various forged pistons too if possible . Thanks A .

S13 Drifter , are there any more details on those 26/30 pistons . Is it possible to run the normal head gasket (for high 8's CR) or do valve clearence and quench issues arise . Also what bore size are these and what kind of rings are supplied . Thanks A .

Fair enough , I gave up on wheel spin a long time ago . I found it got me nowhere .

No GT28 exhaust housing in .86AR and T3 flange . Search ATP Turbo.com in US , they do a sort of GT30 5 bolt T3 flange housing to suit the GT28RS .

No offence but how do you you plan to get 600whp to the tarmac through street legal tyres ? The only thing that prevents me driving a dog box on the road is money . I figure if I can drive an 18spd Road Ranger dog box on the street (and I can) a small light box would be a piece of cake . Sure they clunk a bit due to the backlash but if they're designed right they go snick snick snick . Its up to the loose nut behind the wheel to get the revs and co ordination right .

TO4S compressors have seven full and seven splitter blades , HKS was never stupid enough to use them .