discopotato03

I think you may find trying to launch an R33 with a 2.66 first and 4.111 final drive less than amusing . I worked on a few different diff ratios and about 4.875 gets a near acceptable ratio spread , and even then sixth is still moonshot gearing . IMO a big heavy poorly shifting truck box is not well suited to a performance car . Surely there must be aftermarket gear sets available to fit a box that goes bolt and my guess is GTR bits (aftermarket) probably fit . If you and your wallet are serious about trackwork only a dog box will do . Mines going to wear an RB71 box as I prefer less weight plus I'm kind to gearboxes and clutches , I don't drag race either . I would like to know the part no's of the RB71 (GTST) baulk rings (are 1st - 4th all the same ?) and the details of the bearing kit , though I think its only the lay shaft front bearing that is different to the earlier 71 series . Cheers Adrian .

Silly me went to a lot of trouble and expense to put the guts of an R32GTST box in the casings of an FJ20 box a few years back . There have been so many variations in those 71 series boxes its not funny . The R32 box came from Triple S , I wanted all the wide gears and large syncro hubs plus the larger countershaft front bearing . I had thought all RB71 boxes were the same , have never seen twin cone syncros in them . I think the R33 25T boxes are the same series as VLT and Z32 VG30 . The VLT has wider spaced ratios than R33/Z32 to suit its high final drive (3.45 ?) and lower reving nature . I noticed once in a 4WD/commercial wrecker some gearboxes that looked similar to 33/25T possibly from VG30 Navara , these would probably be wide ratio but at least pretty strong . With the 71 series boxes to get closer ratios we used to change the first motion shaft (input gear) and the front cluster gear , not sure but may also be the case with the large series box . If your handy with the spaniards and get bits at the right prices maybe a cheaper 25T gearbox can be bitzered together . Cheers A .

They need to be in focus to see the vane form and thickness . I think you can safely assume it is a GT2540R , the only other 76.2mm compressor I know of that's been used with that turbine is a 48 trim seven bladed TO4S monstrosity which has worse boost response than the 2540's . I'm going to bow out here because my opinion of whats good and bad is exactly that . Given a choise I would not use a turbo with such a miss match of compressor to turbine . Cheers A .

I don't think Garrett makes a .63 integrally gated exhaust housing for that Turbo / turbine .

I agree getting the CR right with pistons flush to the deck is not easy , with the interest in this conversion I'm surprised no ones had specials made . Nizpro has been doing these for ages so does anyone know if they do a piston that suits the std rods , block and four valve heads . Another avenue could be the OS Giken three liter pistons if they're available at a sane price , though if they suit RB26 rods the gudgeons are surely 22mm . It may be possible to run the pistons slightly proud of the block but less than the thickness of the head gasket , this will be limited I guess by the piston to valve clearence and the compression height of the pistons ie how much off the block safely to achieve it . So depending on valve lift approaching top center it may be possible to squeeze in 8.5 - 8.6 to 1 with off the shelf pistons . Joel you have mentioned the ideal squish height or thickness , I'll have to measure my 26 head but the step into the combustion chamber is huge compared to an FJ20 so may work ok ? My cooling system will use the viscous hub WP fan , I like the idea of the constant airflow through the rad keeping a reserve of slightly cooler water in the core so that the thermostat can controll the jacket temperature . LOL I have never been totally sold on a part time cooling fan and some like me reckon the thermos don't pull enough air anyway . Just my two paseos worth . Chow for now A .

From HKS there are three versions of the 2540 all using the same core and wheels . The first has a T3 flanged .64AR exhaust housing probably aimed at RB20/25 for R32/33/34 . The other two have the 2540R designation and the difference is .64 or .86 AR T25/28 flanged exhaust housings . The two "R" versions are probably aimed at the Rb26 and SR20 engines . Now the compressor wheel is 46 trim and should measure 51.7mm across the tips . Your turbo may be that third version .

Ok now measure the smaller or front diameter across the tips , some pics of the front and side of the wheel would be handy too . The 2540's wheel was either 40 or 46 trim , I'll have a look at the HKS site to be sure .

The front one (aluminium) .

Phantom , when does the GT35R go on ? Thanks A .

Mine was no probs either , bolted up like it was factory - because it is . No offence but that system will suffer reversion problems particularly with big cams . Manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to get performance from sporty cam profiles hence V tech or in Nissans case at the time single throttle per cylinder and slightly more agressive cams . There is virtually no communication between the ports on closed throttle . Single throttle plenum EFI manifolds to a degree join up all the inlet ports and are mild mannered with mild cams only . With that scenario and short overlap cams the trapping efficiency is good . With racier profiles most inlet ports and valves flow surprisingly well in the wrong direction . When there's a physical barrier like a throttle plate blocking the reverse pressure wave its got nowhere to go but back in . If any of you have ever tried to live with the racy cam and single throttle set up it gets very tiresome with your daily driver in metropolitan traffic situations . The GTR Skyline and GTIR Pulsar both use the same style of inlet system , both were homologation specials developed at some considerable cost to Nissan . I think the extreme drag teams go with the big single throttle because for very high revs and airflow its the cheap simple way to go . I've no doubt it could be done just as well with six throttles and an ample plenum . Some claim that manifold absolute pressure load sensing ECU's get better signal from the "Big Log" , SK has examples of more than adequate power levels from Mass Air Sensing ECU's . Its beyond me why people spend more than the cost of a GTR head and inlet trying to re-invent the wheel , not cost effective .

As for hard starts , try turning the ignition on and wait briefly for the fuel pump to build a head of pressure on the injectors and then crank . VL Vomitdoors used to do this at times and my DR30 likes to be primed first . Clean injectors and fuel filters dont hurt either . Cheers A .

I think in warm climates and with low fuel levels its not unusual , sort of large volume and fuels low vaporisation temperature its inevitable . If your real worried you could check the cars fuel tank breather line and charcol canister for choke points .

Fair enough so BB core with NS111 turbine . Still need to see comp wheel , unscrew the six bolts on the backplate adapter and carefully slide it off . If the major diameter is 76mm (3") its probably a 46 trim TO4E wheel making the turbo a HKS GT2540 . The only one of these I've seen was GTR specific and used a .64AR turbine housing and I think a T3 style compressor cover . It makes sense to use the larger housings for a single turbo application but most agree the 2540 is not a good pairing of compressor and turbine wheels . My own opinion is that turbine is best paired with the 60mm compressors ie GT2530 / GT28RS and whatever the GTR Skyline upgrade turbo is called . Any how whip off the front cover and all will be revealed , Cheers A .

Unfortunatly the middle pic hides the core so cannot tell if its a ball bearing type . One easy way to tell is to count the bolts on the core side of the exhaust housing . Four bolts means bush bearing and six bolts means ball bearing . That turbos compressor cover is a TO4E .50AR . I forgot to see if there is a divider web between the turbine outlet and wastegate outlet . If it has this and the four bolt exhaust housing its a Garrett Hybrid . I have seen something similar to this but with a .60AR B cover from Garrett . For positive ID really need to remove the compressor cover and measure major and minor diameters . This will tell the whole story . I have not seen HKS use that .86AR exhaust housing and turbine combination on their 25 or 28 series BB turbos . Chow DPO3 .

If you get the GT3071R take note of which turbine it has . There are different versions , the earlier ones used the GT30 84 trim turbine and the re baged 2835's use the 84 and 90 trim versions of the 56.6 major O/D turbine . These are a factory cropped GT30 turbine not known for stellar performance . They are generally found in GT28 style integrally gated turbine housings while the GT30's generally use Garrett or HKS non gated GT30 housings . Chow A .

Zapata they were part of a kit that came on the car so unknown mileage . Will be out of Syd for a couple of days so will measure on Thursday . It also had adjustable GAB's on the rear which I think I still have . How does $250 sound for the set ?

For the best possible result make sure you use a propper Garrett GT30 exhaust housing , these are available in .63 .82 and 1.06 ARR's in T3 flange . HKS do nice .61 .73 .87 etc housings but for the T28 flange . Just my 2c worth good luck ! Cheers A .

Are any of you running this turbo on an RB twin Cam , Joel ? If so did you manage to find a .82 waste gated exhaust housing and also is the .50AR comp cover TO4E or S ? Thanks Adrian .

My experience is that aluminium core radiators have much better heat transfer ability and the weight difference is huge . I once used an R32 GTR rad in a FJT Bluebird and it solved the cooling issues instantly . I think it had the same dramas as RB Sixes in S13's ie engine really too long for bay and insufficient room for engine driven fan . Also the crowded engine bay is not good for post rad airflow . I think it comes down to surface area vs airflow that makes a good rad , a bit more thought went into the later tubes to get around boundry layer heat transfer probs as well . I was surprised to find out that super dinosaur technology rad's are very expensive and when I realised the compact nature and weight advantages of modern stuff I'll never go back . There is one thing to be careful of and thats the plastic tanks on older cars . I've seen these become brittle and crack without warning . In that instance the 7MGE had a thermal melt down not long after an expensive re build . I would prefer to use new rads or even an all aluminium one for piece of mind particularly with an expensive engine . Cheers A .

My experience is that aluminium core radiators have much better heat transfer ability and the weight difference is huge . I once used an R32 GTR rad in a FJT Bluebird and it solved the cooling issues instantly . I think it had the same dramas as RB Sixes in S13's ie engine really too long for bay and insufficient room for engine driven fan . Also the crowded engine bay is not good for post rad airflow . I think it comes down to surface area vs airflow that makes a good rad , a bit more thought went into the later tubes to get around boundry layer heat transfer probs as well . I was surprised to find out that super dinosaur technology rad's are very expensive and when I realised the compact nature and weight advantages of modern stuff I'll never go back .

I think thats what the Americans (and David Vizard) call an evacupan system . It works on the principle of fast moving exhaust gasses past the vent tube creating a depression or area of low pressure to draw out crank case gasses . The valve used is a check or one way (outwards) valve also known as an anti backfire valve . It prevents crank case explosions should the engine backfire and ignite the crank case gasses . There is a small write up about doing this in David Visards book , How To Modify Ford S.O.H.C Engines . Gotta get the primates to school more soon . Cheers A .

I think I need the filler bit that fits between the bonnet and bumper , so I can cut the ends off and fit MR30 headlights . I doubt by the sound of things much can be achieved by changing globes . Anyone got a spare filler peice ? Cheers A .

Do the Iron Mask cars all suffer from poor low beams ? I put +50 H4's in mine and the improvement was minimal . I should really remove the glass lenses to see if the reflector chrome plating is dirty or stuffed/corroded . Have any of you had this problem and found a fix ? Are new light units available ? I've also refited the modified struts with the HDT Bilsteins and adjustable camber tops , anyone after some DR30 specific short Tokiko front inserts (suit lowered car) in Sydney ?

Finally some more pics of the rb engine !

Any pics available ? Thanks A .