discopotato03

Back to the turbos , Garrett do a GTR replacment BB turbo that's nearly identical to the HKS GT2530 . Could save you some money if buying new . Are the R34 GTR's turbo's Garrett BB's ? Same ? Cheers A .

Nearly forgot , in my opinion stay away from GT30XX turbos with the seven bladed (7 full and 7 spliter) TSO4 compressor wheels . They are not a true GT wheel and date back to the late 1970's . They take more shaft torque to drive than the six bladed BCI-18 wheels and the aero is not as good ie will heat the charge air more than later designs . On their compressor maps efficiency drops away over 16-17 PSIG . The seven blade versions are more common and probably cheaper but won't give the best results . Cheers A .

RS500 , that is going on all over the world . It is absolutely critical that people use the correct turbine housing for their turbo . Too many people compromise their turbo's performance by using different or cheaper housings . Sure it has to fit your exhaust manifold but it has to have the correct nossle shape for the turbine . If you look closely at modern turbines (mainly found in BB cartriges) at the major dia the tip height or "B" width is far greater the the old T3 , T31 and in some cases to4 . It is not possible to re-create the GTBB nossle area or the volute form in T3 housings . When it is attempted the result is increased turbine inlet pressure (back pressure) , higher exhaust gas temperatures and most noticably turbo response . Do it right the first time and save on lunched pistons/valves/turbos . RS500 I guess its personal preference but would the GT30R 56 trim have given you better response for the same turbine side . Cheers Adrian .

Why don't you learn to service your car yourself . Saves money , waiting on others , and teaches you more about your car .

Thanks Nizjet . I'm looking for one for a RB26/30 with a bit more low down than that . Also the .50AR compressor cover would help to bring it on a bit earlier . Maybe I'm aiming too high and should be looking at a GT30R with the .82 AR exhaust housing . Does anyone know which CHRA's go into RB25 Hi Flowed turbos . I think in the 33/30DET thread SK comented that one of them worked well . If FoMoJoke wants $3500 for their name on it they can go rip some F'n Orible Rusty Device pilot . Thanks A .

Looks to me like some sort of T3/TO4B hybrid . That exhaust housing and waste gate combination looks like std T3 stuff off an FJ20ET . The trouble is people go looking for an exhaust housing that fits their manifold , then bastardize any combination of T3/TO4B/TO4E/TO4S into it . Lot's of Garrett parts will fit together but only the right combinations work properly .

I think MR30 (2.4E) is mechanical / vacume advance magnetic trigger . Should go strait in with its module/ingitor .

Hi all , been looking into this as a convienent way to get a modern affordable (?) turbo for RB's . It has an integral waste gate with I think GT35 84 trim turbine and possibly 82 or 1.06 housing . The compressor (GT40) trim I don't know but could be 50,52,56T , and uses a .50 AR compressor cover . Ford claims 240Kw and the aftermarket are I think up around 280-300 . For those who want an OEM appearing turbo capable of serious power it could be the answer . Can anyone tell me what the wheel trims are and the exhaust housing AR . I have a part no I'll post later which is either the unit or CHRA number . Cheers A .

Hello all , does anyone know of a single low mount exhaust manifold to suit the RB26 head . I think these heads use 8mm studs instead of the 10mm studs on single turbo RB's . Also the no3 and 5 ports stud pattern is diagonally opposite to the other RB heads . The manifold needs to have the T3 type flange , split pulse 123,456 would be good . Cast iron is preferable as is ext gate mount . Cheers A .

G'day all , tried my best but cannot download the R32 Engine manuals , or any for that matter . Especially want to see the RB20DET , RB25DE and RB26DETT top end diagrams and specifications . Any help or links hugely appreciated . Am using Broad Band 512/128 . Please help , thank you Adrian .

Mike I live close to Miranda and need a price on the GTR32 Manual CD [email protected] Thank You .

RB30DET will almost certainly have RB26 Head and Inlet Manifold . My reasons are , non VVT RB25DE = $950 GReady Inlet Manifold (which I've been told by several tuners dosent work the best) = $1050 + better injectors = $480 all up comes to nearly 2.5G with lots of junk to store . RB26 for $2000 + gives you better cams / springs / porting / injectors / sodium cooled exhaust valves AND the 6 throttle inlet with probably cooling benefits ie designed to live on higher output engine . I'd bet it will breath more easily and give more power per pound of boost so not requiring mega boost levels . The RB26 ecu/loom could also run it although with 2 MAF's .

I had similar temperature problems with a Bluebird 910 running an FJ20ET . No aftermarket multi core copper/brass radiator worked nor did cooler thermostats . It also had a large Plasma Man intercooler completly shrouding it . The ultimate fix was a Koyo replacment R32 GTR radiator , the core was about 20mm thick and was a single row matrix . The fans I used were DR30 twin electric in their native steel shroud . Problem solved . I cannot sing enough praise for alloy core radiators , they weigh about a quarter of what the old dinosaurs do and are way ahead in heat transfer capacity . It was explained to me that with alloy cores the surface area of the fins is greater while air flow through them is less restrictive . With the Bluebird it was not possible to use an engine driven fan because the FJ20 is so long (Thick walled 89mm bore block with two twin row staggered chains and the water pump ahead of all this) . The way I see it the cooling system needs to have lots of capacity preferably force fed by an engine driven fan with the temperature regulated by the thermostat . I've seen plenty of people remove the "clutch fan" to fit electric ones to save horse power . They create cooling problems and save about three foot grams of torque . More specific to the RB20/S13 JMS also found cooling issues with their S13 . The fix was to refit a standard style air dam and make a vent in the bonnet to let some of the post radiator air out . They changed from I think an S13 SR20DET rad to one of the Skyline ones . As SK said its getting the post rad air to exit the engine bay that will be the greatest challenge . If all else fails an oil cooler could help if it gets decent air flow and does not vent into the engine bay . Chow A .

Excellent , I'd like to hear how it goes . I may have found an R32 25 lower half to work with . I gather you cut it off out past the rail mounts and weld on plates to match the throttle bodies profile , then drill and tap the through bolt holes , make port holes then bolt it up . Chow A .

Sorry guys but the concept has now got me in , thank you SK for the pics . As I said I've looked at the RB26 manifold , just need to see a non VVT 25 manifold/head or gasket . SK the 1st picture didn't show very clearly the modified section of the RB20 manifold . I was looking at an RB20DET in a Commode Door and it had what looked like a spacer plate between the inlet manifold and the head . Does the 32 25 head have this too . Also in your pics the water outlet angled forward like an RB26 , so 20 and 26 must interchange ie to get around the plenum . I really should look at a Nissan R32 Engine Workshop Manual but I could not download it from this site . Cheers A . P.S Am still looking at RB26 heads but the block mods and exhaust side mods still require some work . Its a big if but if I can find the bits for reasonable money I'll grab them . The exhaust porting does look better and of course the better cams and springs would be good . With "pre loved" GTR heads is it common to have to replace valves and guides or are they pretty durable things . Chow .

What are the hot valve clearences on an RB26 ?

I had a look at a 25 DET and a 26 head today . I can only hope that the R32 25 head is closer to the 26 especially as it does not have the 33's telegragh pole sized solenoid sticking out the side . I need to see a 20DET head to compare to a 26 manifold . The front water outlet is longer on the 26 head . On the exhaust side no 3 and 5 ports have their studs diagonally opposite to RB26 . The 25 DET uses 10mm studs where the 26's are 8mm . No doubt adapting the 26 head to the factory single turbo manifold would involve the use of an adapter plate and oversized stud holes in the head . I think Joels DIY RB30DET PDF has a picture of an RB20DET head with the 25DE inlet gasket on it . Chow for now , Adrian .

Thanks Roy . In the pics I have the top water outlet (thermostat housing ?) looks different to RB20/25 (R32) . If thats the case they must have used a modified RB26 injector flange bit complete with the thermostat section and recarved it to suit . Someone here suggested they used an adapter plate . If anyone knows which workshop made it I am all ears . Cheers A .

Thanks Ghostrider . I have also been looking into GT3040 and GT3540 . The Ford XR6T uses a GT3540 with integral wastegate . The compressor housing AR is .50 but not sure of exhaust side AR . Suspect 1.06 because of the four litre donk . This may be the answer for those wanting five litre power rather than six . Am keen to see the pics of your HKS cast exhaust manifold and Trust/Gready plenum . It also looks like you know someone who can re program the Nissan ECU in Sydney . Your project will probably get moving before mine as I need to sell the spare FJ bits to make room for RB stuff . The parts gathering will start soon , when I work out which head and manifold combination best suits me . Cheers A .

Are there any pics available from the Zoom article ie of the adapter plate . If not does anyone have picks of the RB26 head (inlet side without manifold) . Or failing that are there any pics of the R32 RB20/25DE inlet manifold gasket to compare to the RB26 gasket ? Just for the record I was a Fitter/Machinist before Locomotive Engineman so am not scared of filing / grinding / milling / drilling - just can't weld aluminium myself , but others can so please guys how do I fit the GTR inlet on R32 RB25DE head . I am not concerned about the two litres because mine will go on top of three . Correct me if I'm wrong but I think RB20DET and R32 25DE use the same inlet manifold stud pattern so obviously can be done . Chow Adrian .

I came across an article in Zoom no 62 titled Killer Taxi Part 3 . This is basically about someone who put an RB20DET into a VR Commodore and I assume in part 2 has fitted an RB26 6 throttle inlet manifold . Does anyone have Zoom 60/61 that could tell me how it was done as I would like to do this on a non VCT RB25 head . Thanks in advance Adrian .

I found a site by accidend called Handy Dandy Denny . Stupid name I guess but lots of top info on late L28 NA/Turbo engines gearboxes diffs etc , a real good reference . L3100 people take note . Cheers , Adrian .

Ghostrider , I came across an interesting site called Handy Dandy Denny (stupid name) from the US about Zeds . HE said they used either Z24 or KA24 pistons in stroked ( LD28 crank) L28's . The current 4 cyl Navara uses a low compression like 8.4 KA24 twin cam motor , these pistons could be worth looking into .

So much to research . I thought bonnet clearence would be a problem (3liter twin cam) so looked into GTR bits . Turns out that RB26 manifold bolt paterns are different so 20/25DET exhaust manifold won't fit . If anyone knows how they differ please tell - thoughts of adapter plate . Otherwise its back to early 25DE head on RB30 NA bottom end with RB20DET loom and PowerFC . Injectors could be R32 GTR (440cc) with spliced in resistor pack . I hate this bit but the 120 deg bend off the throttle body will point back towards the intercooler outlet . Am going to look into the R31 front cross member to see if it bolts into R30 . Strip your own wreckers are good for finding out this stuff . If it works it'll get me a power rack and suitable controll arms with replaceable ball joints and RB type brackets . If bonnet clearence becomes a problem I'll look into spacing down the cross member radius arms and strut feet - thats after getting the sump as close as practical to the cross member . Can anyone see any holes in this plan . Thanks Adrian .

I really would like the link to that site , if you have it could you post it please ! Thanks A .