discopotato03

To the fellow with the pix (RS500?) . That turbo has a T3 flange GT28 integrally gated .64AR turbine housing . The Turbine is a 76 trim NS111 (47 x 53.8) . The compressor wheel is harder to identify from the pic . To me it looks like a 2540 but need to remove the comp cover to be sure . If its major dia is 76.2 then its a GT2540 with a TO4E compressor . If its 60 its a 2530 . For those who want good technology without the HKS price see Brett at GCG . A cheaper and more efficient version of the 2530 is called the GT28RS or Disco Potato . Same turbine as HKS 2530/2540/GTRS/Garrett GTR Hi Flow , with a similar sized 60mm compressor to the first and last mentioned above , only more efficient due to greater tip height and its TO4B comp cover . They come std with a .86AR GT28 turbine housing but maybe Brett can supply the T3 .64AR flanged version . Want a cheaper HKS GTRS ? Garrett do a turbo called GT2871 which is the same CHRA as the GTRS but with the TO4B comp cover . Need to swap turbine housing but can be bought without one . The GT28RS seems to top out at about 320-30 WHP because the compressor runs outof flow . The GT2871 performs like the HKS GTRS because of its 71mm BCI 18C compresor wheel . I have used the GT28RS on an FJ20ET with very good results . If Brett or someone can supply you with an adapter that works (T3 - T28) this should be an easy upgrade for the RB20 . There is a new thing called GT3071R , basically GT30 turbine with the same compressor as the GT2871 and HKS GTRS . For those wanting more the GT30R is identical core wise to the HKS GT3037 in 56 trim . This time the turbine housing is T3 flange normally sold with .82 or 1.06AR exhaust housings . Brett has shown me a .63 AR gt30 exhaust housing which is in short supply at the moment . where HKS gets a bit unique is the 2535's with their 84 and 90 trim turbines (those with the 56ish mm major OD) . A production engineer from Garrett's in the US tells me that these were a cropped GT30 84 trim turbine , to allow HKS to get a bit more exhaust flow from the 86AR GT28 integrally gated exhaust housing , for an easy "drop in" upgrade not requireing expensive manifolds or external gates . Search ATP Turbo.com for more details but remember Australia is a small market for these things and don't waste time asking Garrett Australia . Search the web and dont hassle Brett unless your serious . He dosen't have time to waste either . Chow DP03 .

You could try Z16 . As for motor preference its your call , arguably the RB would be smoother, cleaner more fuel efficient while generating more power . The RB's are far more durable and built around finer tolerances making them mechanically quieter . The rod stroke ratio is better and the RB25/26 head light years in front of any L Series production item . The L Series will fall in once the alternate oil gallery and pick up/sump pan are used , and look vaguely std . Once it gets the turbo and intercooler plumbing in there goes the std look . My choise would be the RB because of its power potential . Easy lazy torque , lots of aftermarket parts available and from a re-sale point of view you'll get more for the RB . If you really do want the PNA to be original and std why not keep it that way . The real purists will pick an L20A from an L28 any time , they are rare which makes them desirable - if not powerful !

Are there any differences between 6 and 4 cyl (FJ20) cross members ie where engine mounts go ? Where did the inlet manifold come from , is it the top half only . Price ? pics ? It would have been intended for an RB20DET wouldn't it ? Thanks , A .

SK , I was also wondering about turbos for the RB30DET . Brett's stage 1 sounds real good but really interested in the results with the GT3040 . I've been trying to find out what the Ford XR6T has , GT3540 with integral gate I think .

DR30 , uses longnose R200 std is 3.9 . Can someone tell me what valve sizes in RB26 and if ports/stud patern on exhaust side same as RB20/25DET .

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

SK , I like the idea of the RB26 head . Better cam profiles , larger valves (by how much I don't know) better and lower inlet manifold , common injector style . Was the RB26 head difficult to come by , obviously it was not cheap . I assume it can use the single turbo exhaust manifold plus coils and ignitor . Thanks SK , A .

Curses . I once also considered a monster L28 but was told that the head would impose unsolvable limitations . While I agree that at least it will bolt back in I would be concerned with chamber shape and turbo under inlet manifold . And man if I had the RB30DET it would not be sitting on the floor ! Do you have any pics of an RB in a R30 Skyline , particularly round the front cross member and gearbox mount . I think mine is going to have clearence problems around the front of the inlet manifold . Sadly the GTR manifold won't fit the 25DE/DET head and I probably can't afford an RB26 head . Even if I could I don't like the shim under bucket valve clearence adjustment - did someone say like FJ20 ? Before I go what combination of loom computer and injectors did you have in mind for the RB30DET . A few go with RX7 injectors , RB20DET loom/sensors + PowerFC and Z32 MAF . Cheers A .

Z22 + 2 = 2290cc which still revs reliably and uses cheap common L20B accessories ie buy bore bolt . The larger capacity engines make a broad usable torque curve which is needed for motor khana . If you want to spend more money the L Series head will go onto a Z24 block with a bit of work . KA24's are better again but use the SR20 bell housing pattern . It comes down to how much you wish to spend . If its not much just freshen up the L20B .

Cheap rebuild - buy Z22 motor (cheap) use +2 oversize pistons , L20B head timing cover mild cam better carby and exhaust and bluebird 5 spd . I can't believe you didn't look for one with semi trailing arm IRS . With the 4 link you will never stop it doing the rear steer thing . H series diffs are a bastard to work on and very limited in suitable ratios . LSD's are rare and expensive . If it was me I'd have been paying the loan off on a cheap N/A S13 or R32 . Far more competitive standard and all the good bits fall in . Still for a project could be good .

SK thanks for the above reply , do you know where I could buy one in Sydney . You've also answered another question - can it run the GTR inlet system . Was there any mixing and matching of sensors ? Thanks again Adrian .

Question for SK , can R32/33 GTR six throttle inlet system be fitted to R32 RB25DE head . Is the difference it makes worth the $1000 for a road car . Can it be made to work with RB20DET loom and sensors or the R33 single turbo loom and sensors . Thanks A .

Joel , have enquired about the Power FC and was told the following . Price varies from $1200 - $1500 depending on the application . The RB20DET R32 version is not common and more expensive as not many were made . I understand that you used one and mat may have one for sale . can you breifly tell me of your experiences with it . Please excuse typo's as my delete key is stuffed . Thanks joel and all A .

what combination of top end bits did you use for the RB25/30 . are you interested in selling by any chance . Just a point of interest . the LD28 rods look identical to intercooled FJ turbo . Cheers A .

RSX84 , what computer and loom did you use . If it was Nissan how hard to splice to R30 electricals . Cheers A .

Nope , been fighting with my FJ for 6 years . Proven fact , cannot get 3 liter torque at low revs from 2 liters - not possible .

Engine management is the biggest issue . I would prefer R32 head and computer . Silverwater Automotive Services (SAS) quoted me $1300 drive away to dyno and chip R32 computer .....? I went back through the first 8 pages and Sydneykid quoted figures less than half that . Sydneykid - need to talk to you ! Please ! Thanks Adrian .

Sorry so many enquiries Joel . It seems the R33 RB25DET top end and computer would work best as is . Just a bit concerned about that water jacket / oil hole business . Rather than weld the head casting can it be filled in some other way so that the RB30 head gasket will work reliably . Also can I use R32 cams and pulleys in an R33 head . Thanks again Joel A .

No I want the 3 Litres . RSX84 you mentioned wireing issues . Did you use the Nissan computer and if so was it difficult to splice into the HR30's electrical system ? I do have an SMC but would prefer a Nissan set up . Do you know where I could find a wireing diagram in English for the R32RB20DET . Thanks heaps Adrian .

Joel , can I use the RB25DE (R32) loom , computer and MAF for the basis of the RB30DET . Can these computers be chipped to use larger injectors and Q45 MAF later or is the R32 RB20DET loom/computer a better combination . Since I have nothing to start with which will be the least limiting . I noticed in your PDF that I need to get a computer that does sequential injection/closed loop/6coil drivers/knock sense . Can I assume all the nissan ECU's do this ? Lastly can Gary (Sydneykid) or any one in Sydney tune the R32 computers in realtime and burn the Eproms ? Thanks Adrian .

Hello all , just spent 4 days reading this thread . Burning question - can I get an RB30DET into a DR30 , if its tight in an R32 i could find problems . I will be starting out with nothing so whats the cheapest combination of mechanicals and electricals ie RB30E + RB25DE + RB20DET exhaust manifold and top half of inlet manifold + computer and loom . About the only RB thing I own is an RB20 ball bearing turbo . I will not require non std rods or pistons , just rebuild to std spec . Things like R32 oil pump (good used) and piston oil squirters are on my list . I also live in Sydney and really would like to speak to Gary (Sydneykid) . Gary RB25DE found at $900(Engine) or $1300 front cut , is this OK ? Lastly I really like the idea of the R32GTR six throttle inlet system . Assuming it fits the 25DE head is it worth the expense for a road car ? Before I go If people need info on HKS BB turbos search HKS USA and for Garrett stuff lots of info at ATP Turbo.com . You will not see very many 7 bladed compressor wheels ie TO4S mentioned as they have been superceeded by both the TO4E series and the later BCI-18C 6 bladed wheels . Also a lot of confusion exists around Turbo designations ie HKS GT3037 56 trim and Garrett GT30R . In truth they are the same core . This is getting a bit off topic but feel free to ask any questions about the Garrett GT BB turbos . I don't know it all but I'l help if I can . Cheers and thanks for a great thread , Adrian .

While the SR20DET is along more modern lines than the FJ20 it is not really any lighter . Trust me , you pick up a bare block and tell me its light . There are problems with is rockerised valve train , the porting and chambers are not as good as FJ/RB AND they're only 2000cc or 121 cu in . When a 2 litre motor is doing 8000rpm the 3 litre is doing 5300rpm to move the same amount of air (piston motors are basically air pumps) . While RB30 pistons and rods may be a little less durable as FJ20 but there are 6 of them to share the power loads . Divide 450hp and 400 ft lbs by 4 and get 112.5 and 100 . Divide by 6 and you get 66.7 and 75 which for the RB30 std NA bits is not unreasonable . When you can buy a short 2nd hand RB30 for 1-$200 and a RB25DE for under $1000 this is cheap performance . There are heaps of aftermarket bits for RB's which can be had reasonably cheaply whereas everything for the FJ has to be fabricated one off and costs a bomb . Good performance is not cheap but when you can get more fo less ...... My next car will very likely be an R32 so the RB30DET and R200 LSD are one out one in . I like the idea of future proofing my cars , its far easier than doing everything from scratch - and the cost benefits are enormous .

Hmm , so 30mm taller with the RB30DET could be a drama . I am prepared to use a 1 piece tailshaft if it goes ahead . How high above the front cross member does the sump pan sit . Were there any issues with the drag link . I don't suppose the R32 cross member fits . Nah , it would be too easy if the R32 cross member , rack and control arms went in and the engine mounts went bolt ! cheers A .

Thanks heaps RSX84 . I've been going through the RB30DET R33 conversion in the forced induction section and its something like 56 pages long ! The engine seems easy enough . Take 1 RB30E , add 1 RB25DE head (goes bolt) . Add ancileries and enjoy . One thing I REALLY need to know is will the bonnet close over it . The RB30 block is 30mm taller than the RB20/25/26 . How much clearence do you get over the RB20 . If I do this I'll use my R32 GTR radiator that I had in the Bluebird . Lots of pix please , particularly around engine and gearbox mounts . Can't thank you enough A .

RSX84 if you used the std gearbox mount it must have mounted further back in the tunnel ie long engine further back (compared to FJ20) and long box , so I gather the body mount studs were moved further back . Does anyone here have detailed pics of this and RB engine and mounts . Also was the engine back far enough to use the belt driven fan ? I HATE ELECTRIC FANS ! So do dyno operators . Did the R32 Brake Booster bolt straight in and does the R30 master cylinder fit it . From a cost point of view can good power be had from the single cam RB30ET . Long term a twin cam head would be good especially if the block mods were done from the start . LOTS of pics please , thanks A .