discopotato03

OK , for those who have done it how hard or easy is it to fit the RB series six into the DR30 Skyline . I'm guessing some dramas may exist with the gearbox fit . R30's with the L Series six used the short gearbox while L20b's and the FJ20 used the long box , and sat further forward . So with an RB20/25/30 how do you make the longer six and the long box fit without butchering the floor pan and console ? Some of you may think "shame on you for loosing faith in the FJ20ET" but there are some problems with it that are insurmountable . Firstly , it is only 1990cc's even if it does rev like a turbine . Secondly cubic inches are generally the cheapest horses . Thirdly parts are starting to dry up for them . I reckon that a mild RB30ET or DET would be more than a match for a highly strung FJ20ET - for a road car . So back to the conversion - how hard is it ? What engine and gearbox mounts work the best ? Thanks in advance and maybe two late FJ's and their boxes up for sale . cheers A .

My exhausts have always been mild steel . Various bits of it were changed along the way but none of it rusted through or cracked in 6 years . Cheers A .

Where did you find the Gasket and what does it cost ? Also are you using the wire rings between the gasket and the block ?

In the future I hope to use R32 GTR bits on my DR30 . Do you know if GTR calipers use larger pistons that the GTS-T(R32) and are the pads the same . Hate to ask but what would the GTR bits cost ?

Be very careful swapping semi trailing (A arms) between disc brake and drum brake R30 rear ends . I've seen people do this and wind up with massive toe in/out changes . To convert drum to disc most use the drum brake crossmember and A arms , simply drill and tap the old backplate holes oversize and make a caliper mount plate to bolt on . DR30 calipers are good because they use larger pistons . If you can't get these MR30 will do just mount them further out from the center and use DR30 discs .

Can someone PLEASE tell me what headgasket to use with 91mm pistons , is the standard one big enough .

Boof yes . When I had the Bluebird (L20B bored and stroked to 2340cc pre FJT) Stewart Wilkins built me a gearbox using Aust spec 260Z mainshaft and lay gear , also converted to warner syncros . 1st was 2.906:1 and the rest the same as FJ20 . 1st was a touch tall but once rolling it was brilliant . I still have this box but unfortunately the gears are all narrow as in all early Nissan 6 cyl 71 series boxes . I reckon the FJ would kill it in short order .

I was just talking to the fellow who had an FJ24 made up . It was rallyd at std capacity then 92mm and finally 93mm . The pistons were made from Cosworth forgings and used Subaru rings . Cosworth pistons usually have thinner walls than most which makes them lighter and expand less when warmed up .

To the people using 91mm pistons , what head gaskets are you using . I've never measured the std gasket to see how far they go . I can lay my hands on a Nizmo gasket for 93mm bore but only as a last resort as these are no longer made .

US S13/14 used the KA24E (sohc 12 valve) and KA24DE (dohc 16 valve) engines . These have 89 x 96 dimensions with long rods and L Series bore centers . They are a long stroke motor that dosen't like to rev beyond about 6500rpm .

My point exactly , FJ box is 3.32 1st and 1.906 2nd . With the wide gap the 2nd gear baulk ring cops a hiding and the engine revs are too low to pull cleanly , am currently researching into Z32 and GTR gear sets .

Not quite sure what you mean by larger type . I know S13-15 and Z32 , R32/33 use a slightly different variant (shorter snout and pinion shaft plus different mounting system) I think the basic hemisphere dimensions are the same ie carrier bearing journals and the register that locates in the crown wheel . When I mentioned Z31/32 I was refering to gearbox ratios .

My car has too many std intercooled turbo bits I reckon to be retro . It is white under the bonnet and two pak silver elswhere ie no lairy decals behind the doors or black lower down . Its more likely that it was changed in Japan after being abused or it was too good to sell with the car . As I understand it R200 LSD's are not cheap but can be fitted into later cars (the center hemisphere) . In the early 80's Nissan changed the crown wheel bolts from 10 to 12mm , early centers can be drilled out to 12mm or late ones can have 1mm thick bushes fitted to 1 or 2 bolts just to torque it up . Anyhow I want a 3.7 open diff to put my LSD in to give the engine more load to work against . I hate the 1-2 ratio spread in the Nissan gearboxes (too wide) and there is no easy way around this . Some RB25DET gearboxes are slightly better but are very expensive to buy and substantially heavier . I'll have to look into Z31/32 NA gearboxes as I vaguely remember one of them having a 3:1 1st gear . Gotta go cheers A .

Back again . My DR30 has an open 3.9 ratio R200 . I thought all these cars came with an LSD center . The Bluebird had an R200 3.9 ratio LSD that had the internal spacers flicked and a full set of plates fitted , I think 3 sets of active plates per side insted of 1 . The pre-load was about 67 ft lbs and too much for a road car . My point is I want to try a 3.7 ratio diff to give the engine more to load up against . I've noticed that when loaded down with lots of weigh ie extra diffs/drive shafts/struts/A arms/X members (basically another car in the boot) the engine basically says bring it on , more more more . Has anyone used the 3.7 ratio and what did it come out of , swapping in the lsd is no issue . Also nearly forgot DR30 R200's can use a very expensive replacable uni joint found only in the middle of some Navara 2 piece tailshafts . I believe there is a pinion flange that is larger off I think a Z31 or a 280ZX that uses a larger replacable and cheaper uni joint . Anyone out there know for sure ? Thanks for your thoughts A .

Was there any clearence issues in the tunnel where the stick comes through . And what combination of rubber boots works ? Ta A .

Yeah sorry I was thinking 100 thou and 2.5mm ! It looks like I'll have to call Rocket about the Aries ones . I would be game to bore the FJ20 block to 93mm with a bit of sonic testing . These blocks have really thick cores , its just a shame that its a little short on deck height . Does anybody know off hand what size Rex pistons are and gudgeon pin diameter ?

I'd like to know the details about the Aries +2.5mm or 80 thou over pistons . What cost and what compression ratio , how much more torque . Its a lot of expense for 100 cc's more . Just for the record I'm not spending lots of bucks . All the goodies ie Autronic , GT28RS , R200 LSD Bilsteins etc are bits I gutted from the Bluebird . Chow A .

For those of you who have not seen FJ24 style pistons , the gudgeon pin is far higher up the skirt and the ring lands close to the pistons crown . Not the ideal thing for a turbo piston wich should have thick strong ring lands . As mentioned above my plan was to use a spacer plate and liners to get the increased stroke with std or at least conventional pistons . From a cost point of view big bore pistons are more practical . I would rather use a factory style cast piston for a road car and not have the rattles and bore clearence dramas that forged pistons have .

The trouble with thick anti roll bars is that they tend to make cars lift wheels off the ground . Needless to say the adhesion factor of airborn wheels is zip . The propper way to increase roll stiffness is to raise the spring rates . Contrary to popular belief high rate springs don't break your back teeth if you have adequate dampers .

Does anyone know any cost effective ways to increase the capacity of the FJ20 . A fellow I know bored and stroked one to 2400cc's years ago for a group G 1600 . This was very expensive at $1200 to weld and offset grind the crank plus god knows what for its Cosworth pistons and rings . This was an NA motor along the lines of the 240RS engine . I once considered using a block spacer plate and liners but costs go out the window . Does anyone make oversize pistons for the FJ20 ? If so what are the results like . Also FJ20's are bloody heavy lumps . Some of you seem to be using RB's in R30's , how does the weight compare . I like the look of the RB24 conversion but not sure what youd pay for GTR crank/rods let alone the Tomei pistons . I need more cubes and less weight - any ideas ?

Is it still a two piece like the std one ?

G'day all , had my clutch done today . Out with the 87K old std clamp and in with the three button sprung centre job . The diaphram spring is 1100kg . The original tailshaft went back in tired unis and all . These unis are staked at the factory and non repairable so what does everyone do ? When I had the Bluebird with the FJT and DR30 IRS I used a one piece shaft , is this the common fix . Before I go am interested in what clutches others are using . chow A .

DR 30 , what kind of drive shafts and CV's do you have ?

DR30044852 on the fire wall, thanks .

G'day all though I'd look in here for the first time . I sincerely hope the GT-R never wears a V8 . I think it would blow the entire giant killer culture that Nissan developed with these cars . What a pity Group A ended taking these awsome machines with it . The nuckle draggers still hate them . Are there any sites in English with details of the VQ V6 turbo engine development , particularly the VQ32DETT ? Also very interested in the e-AWD . Co incedentally I was asking a friend the other day if he though engine /alternator electric drive could work . A bit off topic but are the specs of the Black R34 that Dirk whatsisname drove around Nurburg in the DVD GT-R available . The car/driver combination were unbelievable , speeds of up to 190mph and on overly stiff suspension AND it idled and drove sweetly at low engine speeds ! Show me a push rod V8 Commode that can do this . Cheers A .