discopotato03

Can someone tell me which year my Iron mask was built ie 84/85 . DR3004485x , engine no is high 49700's . Also is there a way to tell the RS from the RSX . The boot lid badge says DOHC RS Turbo . The car came with pwr steer and air , elec mirrors no cruise or fast glass . Thanks A .

Yes GT2871R is a GT28 turbine and a GT35 comp wheel . If you look at the GT28RS at this site its what I ran . The only prob with either of these is the T25/28 flange . ATP also do a T3 exhaust housing actually GT30 internally but profiled to the turbine used by the GT28RS and GT2871R (same) . In theory you could use an integral waste gate with this housing , but not your original FJ gate . You need to understand that the std exhaust housing was made by Nissan to suit a Garrett core and so the stud patern on the back of the exhaust housing is different . However the Garrett style gate is easy to find . The turbo I really like is the GT3071R , T3 flange and GT30 turbine . It uses the same comp wheel as the GT2871R and could probably also use TO4B comp cover if space was a problem . Lots of good stuff at this site but none FJ specific . Cheers A .

Best easily available are Bilstein B46 0157 . These were supplied specific for the DR30 in Japan . They will be expensive at 400+ a pair BUT what good is grunt if you can't keep your wheels on the ground . For those using high rate rear springs ie 200 inch/pound (mine are 235) there is a B46 0198 which is fractionally shorter with less bump damping but more rebound damping . However Sydney Suspensions would not bring them in last time I asked . You gets what you pay for ...

Calipers go bolt . what I was asking was are there discs that will bolt up behind the std hubs . I have little interest in discs designed to fit over the wheel studs because this alters the track width and increases bump steer . If I have no choise I will modify an earlier pre negative offset hub or machine up one off hubs . where there's a will there's a way .

No thank you , I could manufacture my own bits and fit them cheaper than that .

My late DR30RS dosen't see very well in the dark . Is there something in the way of bulbs I can use to up the candle power ante ? If not can MR30 lights be used with the matching skinny under light bit ? Thanks Adrian .

When installing an Autronic in a DR30 can it be spliced into the multipin connector in the middle of the firewall and so use the origional relays etc ? Anyone done this and know the wires to splice ? I removed my SMC from my Bluebird (FJ20ET) and re connected everything to its loom so all it should need from memory is earth and ign on power . Thanks Adrian .

Ghostrider can you please tell me what is involved in fitting BNR32 discs/calipers to DR30 please . Can the back side of the hub be machined to get the correct offset in relation to the calipers and will the 4 piston calipers bolt direct to the struts ? Thanks Adrian [email protected]

What Nissan stuff fits the front of these cars , prefer to stay 4 stud .

What bolts up to DR30RS (front) to give better brakes .

To solve ALL the Garrett/HKS arguments : 1) All Garrett and HKS BB turbos are built by Garrett Japan . 2) Garrett does all R and D on ALL compressor wheels and turbines . 3) Because in the past there were no spares for BB turbos no one could mix and match compressors and turbines to duplicate HKS combinations . 4) HKS do custom make some exhaust housings to optomise their cartrige combinations ie T25 flange .73AR GT30 housing for the HKS GT3037 series . Why would Garrett bother to make this housing when there is no OEM application . 5) Once we get to the HKS GT3037 stage the playing field levels out . The core of the Garrett GT30R is identical to the 3037 56 trim , in fact you can buy the GT30R and whichever HKS exhaust housing seperatly and save heaps . In the smaller Nissan specific range you can buy a turbo called the GT28RS (see Brett at GCG) which has a slightly superior result than the HKS GT2530 ( same turbine fractionally better compressor) for the T25/28 flange . I personally don't like the HKS 2835 series as they use a cut down GT30 turbine which flows well but not efficiently (laggy) . Garrett has just recently come up with the GT3071R (should really be called GT3035R because it uses a GT30 turbine/GT35 compressor) which should work better , but are not integrally waste gated . It can be optioned with T25/28 or T3 flange exhaust housings , perfect for external gate RB25DET . So there you have it . Do not panic if you can't afford the expensive blue label . There are Garrett alternatives . Do some research , learn what the different turbine and compressor families are (and what combinations are good together) and seek the closest Garrett item . Remember , there are no HKS specific wheels , only their combinations . Research sites Garrett Catalogue , HKS USA , ATP Turbo.com etc . The USA are more awake up to these things than we are here .

Latest development from Garrett is the GT3071R . This has a 56 trim GT35 compressor wheel , good for 44lbs/min flow or about 400 + Whp . The turbine is a GT30 84 trim (same as GT3037/GT3040) . The compressor cover is a .50AR TO4E and the turbine housing can be any GT30 compatable in T3 flange .63/.82/.106 and in T25/28 flange from HKS .61/.73/.87 etc . Brett Lloyd from GCG in Sydney is looking into these at the moment . For pics see ATP turbo.com (in US) and read the write up on the Lancer Evolution 8 kit featuring the GT3071R turbo . ATP claims 375whp on the Evo 8 with modest ? boost and their .63 exhaust housing , and spools 2-300rpm later than stock . Price is $1325 US or $1050 US without the exhaust housing .

Hi all , just wondering if anyone has attempted to convert a DR30 to rack type steering . A fellow I know once converted an MR30 with a quad cam VG30 in it because of exhaust manifold clearence problems . He used a Bluebird rack and moved the lower control arm pivot points to match the rack inner joint centre to centre length . He cut and shut Bluebird and MR30 control arms (I cant remember in what combination) and used shortened Bluebird steering arms . He used a non power steering rack whereas I have access to a Bluebird power rack and cross member . While his steering was good (if heavy !) I am wondering if there is an easier way . Does any of the R31 stuff fit or even the Bluebird cross member and rack complete . One aspect of the R30 front end that is a pain is non re-newable ball joints . Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks A .

Hi all , just wondering if there is a simple plan to upgrade DR30RS front brakes . I saw someone hint that Z31/32 and R32/33 calipers bolt up to DR 30 struts but will any of the discs bolt up to the hubs or are mods required . If this is very expensive do the early R32 floating calipers and discs fit ? Are the calipers a wider version of the DR caliper using the same pads ? The car is wearing 16x7 and 16x8 Volks and there is HEAPS of clearence on the std calipers . Ideally I would like 28mm or thicker discs (I think 22mm is a bit thin) and I want as little unsprung mass as possible . Also I do not want to change the hub/wheel offset as this affects bump steer . Four piston calipers for look value are not my aim here . With master cylinders , can the DR's 13/16 cyl be bought here (in Sydney) and or is a 1" available and any better (must fit std booster) . Thanks for a great site A .

The TO4E is not really the equal of a GT3040 . Most TO4E wheels have a major diameter of 76.2mm (3") while the GT40 wheel is I think 84mm , higher flowing and more efficient (generates less heat through better design) . To match the GT30 turbine you would have to use an old heavy TO4 O or P trim turbine . So more innertia to over come and less efficient air pump plus the legacy of bush bearings and thrust plates to lunch . If you seriously want 300rwkw I would look for a GT3240 , or if boost response is a priority use a GT30R with the larger 1.06 exhaust housing and a large external gate . These things don't come cheaply , but offer you a better chance of achieving your goals reliably and less chance of anihilating your engine . Have fun A .

There is a GT28 turbo that depending on who you talk to is rated at either 290 0r 320 hp . This item is a common upgrade for CA18's and SR20's and I think is the one in the catalogue . The one you are after has a 71.1mm TO4S wheel in it and depending on the trim is rated at 350 , 400 , 450 hp . None of these has stellar performance , mainly because of the mis-match between the turbine and compressor major diameters ie 53.8mm (turbine) and 71.1mm (compressor) . When you look at the GT3071R it uses a GT30 84 trim turbine (60mm x 55mm) and a GT35 56 trim (71.1mm x 53.1mm) compressor wheel . Its turbine has very high flow capabilities for it s size , and its compressor wheel is three generations more modern than the TO4S . The compressor is rated at 44lbs/min flow which equates to about 450hp . The turbine is a late high tip width UHP (ultra high pressure ratio) and in a suitable GT30 housing has supported 500 plus hp . The GT3071R is being sold by ATP Turbo.com in the US and if enough people start to demand later technology it will turn up here too . Don't even bother with Garrett in Sydney because they've probably never heard of it and are not interested . Obviously it's easier to sell outdated technology to the un enlightened . Hope this helps A .

Always lots of confusion here . Most Garrett Ball Bearing Turbos (GT)'s have a two or four digit number , eg GT30R . The 30 denotes GT30 series exhaust turbine . It could also be called GT3037 because it has a GT30 turbine and a GT37 compressor wheel . There are exceptions to this eg HKS GT2540 has a GT25/28 series turbine with a TO4E compressor wheel . Some firms such as ATP Turbo in the US have come up with numbers like GT2871 and GT3071 to be difficult . With the last two the second two digits means 71 actually 71.1mm diameter compressor wheels which are GT35 wheels . So a GT3071R could be called a GT3035 by some . Be very careful with GCG and Ray Hall as they are selling turbos they call GT30's and GT3037's which use old outdated TO4S compressor wheels (1976 vintage) which are the same family as the old 60-1 or 409535-1 as the part number goes . These wheels are seven full and splitter blades and were designed to pump large volumes of air at medium pressure ratios ie one bar or 14.7 psi . They take more shaft torque to drive than the later 97 era six bladed BCI-18 compressor wheels and impart more heat into the inlet air . This shows up as lag (caused by slip losses at the turbine) and increased charge temperatures . The latest theorys suggest that sizing the turbine and comperssor wheels nearly the same makes for similar tip speeds . If properly sized (both) this increases the engines volumetric efficiency and allows it to produce more torque per pound of boost than the current crop of mis-matched turbos . Always remember that aftermarket turbos are only a very small part of Garretts business and OEM are where the volume sales are at . Turbo development is an on going process and there are good things in the pipe line . Look at Australia as a backwater for these things and look to the US for the latest stuff . ATP Turbo.com shows details of most of the latest GT-R (not Skyline) series Turbos and the GT28RS and GT3071R seem to be along the most modern lines . Chow A .

I have a series 1 Bluebird (1982) with DR30 IRS grafted into it and came across the same problem , I was already using Bilstein rear dampers B46 0057 and custom wound 235 inch pound springs . My problem was trying to get the correct ride height and enough tension on the springs so that they would not dislodge at full droop . Purely by fluke I raised the ride hight one inch (Bilsteins usually have several circlip grooves for spring seat mounts and more can be added with a parting off tool in a lathe) and also INCREASED the springs PRE LOAD . My car now has very little squat and is MUCH more predictable . Production cars ALWAYS work better at standard ride height . Increased spring and damper rates reduce the body roll and help keep the suspension geometry as the manufacturer intended . While I'm on my hobby horse thick anti roll bars are useless . On my car I used the smallest factory front bar I could find and used custom wound 185 inch pound springs . My front struts are DR30 with the spring seats ground off and the tubes extruded to take Bilstein P36 0303 inserts (short length Commodore HDT V8 inserts)to give a good ride and acceptable roll . Screw adjustable platforms were welded on the strut tubes and adapters to take the Bilstein top nuts . I have had this car for twelve years and have bought a clean DR30RS Skyline to replace it . So far it has new bilstein rear dampers and whatever the last set of custom rear springs that the Bluebird had . The car had come with Jap aftermarket springs and dampers and drove absymally . The rear is now at std height and works well . The front now has std DR30 springs and some sort of short Tokiko damper that traps the springs and sits way too low . The Razo camber adjustable tops also got the flick for std MR30 tops and bearings . When the front is at a sane height (can't get a trolly jack under the front cross member yet) I will re assess the front wheel camber situation . The Bluebird bits go in soon . Hope some of this helps and E-Mail me if you need to source some bits , my sources are in Sydney and loath dreamers and time wasters . One thing that comes to mind regarding R31 IRS , I think they use some sort of crude rear steer that allows the cross member to deflect and steer the trailing arms . If you have it junk it . No competition Nissan ever used it and it proved to be unsatisfactory on the road . If it fitted I'd use the DR30 IRS as it has larger piston cable type calipers and works . Have fun A .

Can someone tell me which bits I need to convert an 84/85 model DR30RS Skyline to the 5 Stud patern . I suspect the front hubs will be R31 and probably the rear stub axles from an IRS R31 . Also I seem to recall that the non 4 spot braked R32 used similar sized but thicker front discs and matching Sumitomo steel calipers also with 60mm pistons . Can I use any of this and maintain all the std offsets . Thanks A .

There is an interesting Garrett BB turbo on the ATP Turbo site (US) . It uses the GT30 (55x60) 84 trim turbine and a GT series 53.1x71.1 compressor in a .50 AR TO4E comp cover . They're calling it the "GT3071R" . Supposed to be good for 400 wheel HP and spools 1,000 rpm sooner than a GT30R . It should be ideal for a high compresson motor such as the RB25DET and can be had with T3 flange housings in 61 , 82 , and 1.06 AR ratios . HKS also do housing with .73 , .87 etc . ATP even do a 63 and I think an 82 AR integrally gated housing to make it a "direct fit" . I have not been able to get a part number for it yet but in time . Chow for now ...

I would imagine that this is the case because RB20 exhaust manifolds are flanged for the T3 pattern while most HKS GT30 exhaust housings use the T25/T28 flange pattern . HKS USA site gives most details of these turbos . If anyone is interested in selling one of these with the .73 exhaust and 52 trim compressor for a sensible price let me know (for an FJ20ET ) .

52 trim version gets smaller inlet and will give the desired response . D1 Garage wants $4400 for it . No thank you .

Sorry , has to have the 52 trim compressor wheel .

Does anyone bring these into Australia for a sane price , I am not willing to pay twice what the Yanks do ($1650 USD) . If so please let me know . Thank you .