discopotato03

Yeah I have a string of alternators off various Jap things now starting with an LR165 off a Vortex and the Z32 LR180 that replaced it . I scored a genuine Hitachi LR1110 (110a) which had been freshened up for the R33 , then stumbled on the 125a one which I pretty sure is a rebuilt Hitachi LR11125 in Maxima casings . You see the odd copy of Hitachi alts and you can tell by there being no Hitachi stickers and the plating on the nuts and bolts is silver not that gold appearance . Anyway we split the cases off the 125 and washed it all up yesterday arvo . All looks pretty good though the back bearing is a bit tired . I honestly think 110a is plenty to have in a car that has 80 standard particularly a 90s Skyline without all the luxo elec pork . One of my failings is I can't resist rare upspec bits particularly when the bite is virtually trivial . Must stop collect alternators , cheers A .

I look at it like this , a 460 Walbro is capable of probably double or more what a standard R33T pump is and the std reg is designed to cope with std pump return volumes . If you double up on the regs then you have twice the regulator capacity to deal with very high flows at idle etc . If one of them returns fuel in a cooler environment then the heat issue won't be so great . People like scotty say the std regs have quite small bypass passages in them which is why they very likely don't cope too well in single form with a 460L/min pump . Twice as much pump and twice as much reg capacity . They may regulate at slightly different pressures but with the volume you are talking about I think you would always get flow through both . I suppose you could place a slight restriction (drilled piece of 8mm bar inline) at the rail outlet one so the upstream one is doing most of the bypassing and could experiment with hole sizes . FPRs can always close up to maintain fuel pressure but once fully open they can't pass any more regardless of rising fuel pressure from big pumps . All this assumes you need a Walbro 460 BTW because if you can't use most of its capacity the bigger pump side affects and electrical current draws are for shit .

Except that all the fuel is going through the fuel rail and I bet its putting more heat into the fuel than the pump is in 9v mode . Primary current mode is intended to work with what the standard pump moves with 9v . GTRs take it a step further with two resistors and two stage switching ie both or one or none . From memory their low load pump voltage is more like 6.5v and I'm pretty sure a 460L pump is moving more at 9v than a GTR one is at ~ 6-7v . The OE system literally burns off the reduced voltage as heat because it's a cheap means of doing so not a good one . You're talking valves in ancient TV sets to reduce current so really pre historic . Bypassing the at times unwanted extra fuel capacity isn't exactly elegant but I thing simplicity on the electrical side would make for better overall reliability . How often do you hear of FPRs (OE ones) failing ? They are a simple dumb device with two fuel and one vacuum hoses so no relays resistors fuses etc to fail/burn out . Don't need any fancy high volume obviously non standard regs to scream modified and mounting/hiding an OE type , someones OE type , reg down near the fuel damper in an R33 won't attract any undue attention . If you can source the pressure tap off the back of the plenum the Vac hose won't be terribly long . I also reckon with little resistance to flow through two regs the pump won't draw a lot of current at light engine loads because the pump won't see much load . Just food for thought .

Really what this all comes back to is the current draw of the pump and the cars wiring is made to live with the standard pump . Aftermarket pumps draw high current because I don't think they use very efficient pump motors . One of the easiest solutions is to use the GTR Nismo pump because it draws less current for its capacity than many aftermarket ones , and it's obviously intended to cope with a standard GTRs wiring . I think there has to be better ways than trying to use the factory system with higher current draw pumps than the std or Nismo ones . If you go the traditional way with high capacity wiring and no current stepping you get the fuel heating issues because everything goes through the hot bay/rail . I still have to wonder what happens if you run a second bypass , literally another std or equiv regulator , upstream of the rail and plumb it back into the existing return line . Yes the high capacity pump runs flat out with low resistance wiring all the time but the fuel loop so to speak can bleed something like half the volume back to the tank with half the fuel flow resistance . I can't see a problem with having two std capacity regs and the advantage is that one feeds back into the return line BEFORE the hot rail end of the fuel loop . People may think yeh but what if that other reg fails open , well that's about as likely as the std one doing this and the results is the same . Rail or similar mounted regs live in a hot vibrating environment and most people reckon both ultimately don't do them any favours . I think pump motors add sfa heat to the fuel compared to the rail and engine because they don't have a real lot of thermal mass to start with . Anyway I reckon the "pre rail 2nd reg" , PR2R , deserves some thought . The only reason that return line EFI systems regulate from the rails return is to give boiled fuel vapours in the rail an escape path so you can start the bastard hot ie after a bit of heat soak . IMO it shouldn't matter if you have one reg two regs or ten regs , if they are referenced off manifold pressure they should do about the same thing and if any is a tad low pressure wise it achieves the same thing as if that was only reg in the system pressure wise . I can't think of any other cheap simple way of solving the wiring and fuel flow/heat problems . Thoughts ? Cheers A .

I got lucky today and found a 125a alternator that looks like a Hitachi and a noticeably wider in the outer metal section between the ally casings . I found it by mistake in a wrecker 92 Maxima with an early VG30 in it . Usually the 110a ones turn up on 97 98 A32 Maximas with VQ30s in them . The mounting ears are the same with the front tensioner one on centre so to speak . RB alternators being on the drivers side have the top ear slightly towards the engine so need to mod the top bracket to suit the Maxima alts . Maxima VQs don't tension the drive belt by moving the alternatorand and depending on the year and VG/VQ engine can be above or below the AC compressor . I scored a slotted tensioner bracket from an early bottom mount car and another from some top mount Nissan , transverse KA I think . I also got the threaded adjuster block and bolts off some Nissan that tensions by hinging the alternator RB style . These later alternators have a different connection to the early large spade type . I only have one good plug and I'll have to see what my car has standard . $45 for a second hand 125a alt sounds good to me , cheers A .

I think you'll find Bosch EV14 injectors are made in three different lengths and the easiest for a 33 RB25DET manifold is the shortest or EV14K (kompact) length ones . Xspurt do these in a 740ish cc size and ID do an 850cc shorty called ID850GM for the later alloy Chev V8s . I'm surprised we don't see more of those 850GMs used in RB25 Neos which should be direct fit - or R33s with modded Neo or aftermarket fuel rails . From memory they are 14mm diameter top and bottom and honestly I can't see the point in having the smaller diameter top section unless it's going in a std app top feed rail ie RB20 or 26 . And yep local suppliers , saves so much grief . A .

If you can see under the inlet boss/hose on the front of the compressor housing look for an AR number ie 0.50 A/R . AFAIK only GT3071Rs used that housing in that AR ratio with the large inlet boss . The unknown is if someones made up a non standard bitzer and the only way to tell is to remove and pull the housings to measure the wheels . Does it have a Garrett GT30 IW turbine housing on it ? A .

Well water has a greater density than methanol so it has to weigh more per unit volume that water . I think the methanol is there to counter the fact that water doesn't burn and its vapour pressure is lower so it vaporises more readily . Evaporative cooling is partly why alcohol fuels work so well when combustion conditions get evil , approximately 1/3 more fuel going in with say E85 so more to evaporate and cool . Even more so with methanol which is supposed to have less than half the heat value of petrol . So I expect more than twice the volume going in than petrol and vaporising . If you work out the octane rating of methanol and then water (0) and add them together (ie 50 50) you get an idea of the octane rating of your anti detonant fluid . If you get 65-70 then I think you can assume that the volume of WMI being injected compared to the volume of fuel being injected may not be that high and if you then halve or whatever that for methanol content can you imagine much octane boosting going on ? Seems to me that charge/combustion cooling is the main gain here . A

I asked Geoff once what he thought about using an adapter plate/spacer on the RB25 std manifold , basically Twin T3 one side and twin T4 the other . This would be the easiest way to mount this Borg short of getting the T25 flanged housing and making a stainless single inlet T3 flange and welding it on . The major issue with all these EFRs is that they are so long and the burning question is what sort of compromise does shortening them up make , and will the market accept some compromises to get the engine in next to the turbo if they buy one ... Would the cartridge suffer if the housing was shorter and the length closed up between the bearings ? Also there seems to be a lot of material from memory at the compressor end , must have a look at the cut aways again . Everyone is going to compare these B1s to Garrett GT25BB centre sections thought to be fair comparing them to TR30Rs would be a better comparison . Garrett really does have better than GT25/GT30 turbos available but they won't sell them to just anyone . Maybe its time to release that turbine to the aftermarket if they really want market share in the 500ish whp area . With the right sized GTX wheel it could be a good package in the existing outline . EFRs look like great things but fitting long IWG versions to competition cars isn't the same as production ones - particularly if you don't want it to look obviously modified . A

I decided yesterday I'd had a gutfull of shitfull E70 fuel consumption so I did what I swore I wouldn't again - start blending non pump brews . Got thy trusty Casio out and crunched numbers to see how much PULP is needed to drop the ethanol percentage . My calcs are based on an R33 having a 60L tank because when you can squeeze , at a servo , 58 litres in it obviously doesn't have a 55 litre gut . Close as I can work it every 4.25 L of ULP you toss into a tank topped off with E70 drops the E% five points . So with a nearly full tank and a 10L container I put in 8.5L of Ultimate 98 and added E70 to the neck . This in theory makes E60 . Rather than spend ages editing my fuel table I went to the Vipec fuel setup and changed the master fuel trim to -6% . Quick easy and worked surprisingly well . After this tankfull and a bit off trimming I'll try adding 17L of Ultimate and (E50) and pull a bit more fuel out with that trim setting . Everything I read suggests that most of the benefit of Ethanol is in the first 40 or so percent and I doubt my engine would melt with 50-60% in a reasonably tame state of tune . The tricky part is going to be keeping the ratio accurate and the best way to know would be with an ethanol content tester . Either that or mixing drum by drum in 20L batches - messy . A .

After all this just ended up needing outer tie rod ends supplied by Bursons . The RoadSafe ones were a little longer than the originals but still got us 1mm toe out per side to suit the SK Whiteline Bilstein kit under my car . Before the alignment I raised the front height two grooves to the highest setting and it drives nicely now . I remember asking Gary how to increase the front roll stiffness on this car and he commented that taking the height up would do that . It's what happens when the lower control arms angle up towards the hubs instead of downwards . Having 16mm extra suspension travel won't hurt and the poor old air dam should touch down less often ... A .

I found another possible in Nissan Muranos , I think they have a Hitachi 110a alternator 2003-2010 and a 130a from 2011 to 2013 ? BTW can an auto sparky tell me if you have to wire up the 3rd and 4th pins used on later alternators ? I think the engines computer must have some control over charging loads possibly for emissions BS reasons . A .

I finally got Garys ear and he knows nothing about Hard Race stuff . He did say that OE sized inner tie rods are hardly weak and anyway it's better to bend them than trash a rack if you hit something hard . Very interestingly he said he knew the Roadsafe agent a few years back and what came out of their boxes was Nissan OE parts so bonus $ wise . Here is a snapshot of the Skyline section of their catalogue (which anyone can download for their site) so you can see their listings . Note R33 2WD outer tie rod ends but no rack end part shown . R34 2WD uses the same outer joint and people here have used the 34 inner/rod so I'll get sets and do both sides . Thanks all , cheers Adrian .

I had a bit more of a sniff into Mitsubishi brand alternators since some Skylines have them and it looks like its easier to have a win with them than later Hitachis - exc maybe late Maxima 110a ones . So far the highest output one I've found is off a Mitsy 4B11 and it's 12v 130a . Search for 130a Mitsubishi alternator because I can't post the link . Also things like RX7 Ser 6 7 8 and Pajeros have Mitsy alternators in the 90-110a range . Be good it their guts went into Skyline Mitsy casings , cheers A .

Best to start with flat square machined surfaces to give the fire rings the best chance of sealing . I reckon an OE or better spec gasket too and if the head and block are down maybe studs and nuts instead of bolts ? A .

Yeah I think Nissan went through generations where in the late 80s early 90s they had things like N13s S13s and R32s and towards the early mid 90s it changed to N14 S14 R33 and later N15 S15 and R34 . Generally speaking the cars got larger and or heavier and it sometimes shows in the suspension and steering componentry . In this case the rod end threads went from 12 to 14mm to take larger outer joints . Also thanks for confirming the difference in rod length , I noticed in that catalogue similar rods of different lengths for various models which could be interesting to those fiddling with steering geometry . I've gotta talk to Gary and see if he likes the Hard Race rack ends because I can get them off Just Jap if they have stock . Cheers A .

If you look at their catalogue they don't mention a front rack end slash tie rod for RWD R33 . I tend to think they are the same as N15 2L/late S14 200SX/R34 RWD because they are all from approximately the mid 90s era and use the same thread sizes . I'm not sure if R34 rear drive was any different to the R33s front suspension and steering geometry wise . A .

Best ones I know of are called a donkeys dick . Basically an internal patch with a rubber stalk in the middle you pull out through the hole . Vulcanising patch also held in place with inflation pressure and a plug to fill the hole . Dunno about good at track speeds though . A .

Depends if it gets the SK stamp of approval . From All Safe R34 RWD rack ends or tie rods if you like are 290mm total length , the socket thread is 16x1mm and the outer end is 14x1.5 . Pn RE7081 . The matching rod ends are 100mm long and the Pn is TE926 + 14 . Nissans that use the same rack ends are 200SX S14 (10/96 on) , U13 Bluebird , N15 Pulsar 2.0L , R34 RWD . R33 RWD not listed assume same ? Ditto rod ends Maxima A32 (91-99) , N15 2.0L , R32 4WD , R33 all , R34 all . Will look into the Hard Race rack ends because from JJ they are around half the price of genuine for a larger diameter rod . A .

Thanks for that , I noticed on Just Japs site that they sell Hard Race rack ends or tie rods as I call them and the ones for R34s are mentioned as suitable for R33s and S14s - and even R32s if you use 14mm thread outer or tie rod ends . Only for RWD Skylines BTW . JJ also sells genuine R34 rack ends but not shown as suiting anything else . A .

Hi all , I searched forever trying to find front tie rods preferably genuine Nissan but there is nothing specific . I gather that they are 278-285mm total length and that the rack end thread is 16 x 1 or 1.5 and the tie rod end joint is 14 x 1.5mm ? Some claim R32 and R33 RWD are the same and others reckon the outer end thread is 12mm in R32s . I searched to see if R34 GTT ones are the same because JJ has them but they don't mention compatible with R33 GTS25T . I need an OS front one for rego soonest so can anyone tell me where to buy them or if any other locally sold model ie S14 S15 is the same ? Cheers Adrian .

The ones to research are late luxo barges that had a filming studios worth of electronic poser crap . These often have high output alternators to run all this crap at virtually idle for traffic driving . Unfortunately we didn't get the real Nissan lux sedan , Infinity , like they do in the states . We got fobbed off with the Maxima FWD POS though the real one is available here now . Also worth researching late four tonne drives because these are often rolling lounge rooms with all the crap as well . A .

Why not use RB25 DET rods and pistons ? And fit the oil squirters as well . Personally I'd use Neo 25T stuff if you really must use the NA block and or number . A .

When water boils it turns into water vapour and when it cools it condenses back into a fluid . The whole idea of having a water cooled turbo is to stop the heat in the manifold and turbine housing conducting into the centre housing and cooking the oil in the bearings mainly after shut down . It only has to work for about five minutes and provided the water vapour bubbles can rise out of the centre section without forming vapour locks it should work fine . Just remember the water line out of the turbo must let the coolant rise to a higher point in the cooling system or it's hard to make it thermosiphon properly . A .

If you want Nissan OE the go seems to be later Maximas with all the elec options . I know we got Hitachi 110 a alternators here but the belt tensioner mount is in a different position on the I think front casing . I have a 110a one here gutted for when I get around to needing an alternator , for me 110a replacing 80 should be fine . I never got around to researching Mitsubishi alternators to see if there's anything better than 80 for an RB25 that's direct fit . Something to remember with high output alternators is that the rotor is usually considerably heavier so revolving inertia to have to accelerate and decelerate . Note the pulleys get wider for contact area so they don't slip . Also some big late alternators have some wacky decoupling guts type pulleys I think so the alt can run faster than its pulley sort of like the free wheel on a pushbike . Probably makes life easier for the belts and off throttle engine transients . A .