discopotato03

I ended up buying a new one at the time because I needed good signals for and aftermarket brain . People tell me that these CAS units go off over time and most original ones won't be at their best . Lots of heat cycles and bearings wear over time . New can be expensive but probably the simplest and best result . A .

Dog shit diamonds and EA81 turbo engines , pot kettle . I have searched - lots - nothing jumps out as perfect .

Greg I'd like to hear your opinions of the DW301 and the Walbro 460 Ethanol pumps . This is a thread from NASIOC that has the performance data for the DW301 . http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102897 It sounds like a good thing and DW seems to have gone all out SAE testing them on E100 . I like the 13.5v table figures and if not pushing more than about 60 psi the current draw should be easy on an elec system with adequate wiring . There is a fitting kit to suit their 240SX and this may make it virtually an easy install on a GTS25Ts bracket . I had a look at the standard wiring in my R33 since the back seat was out and the wire size is not brilliant , it's really small at the FPCM plug . Thanks for the tip Lith , cheers A .

480 horsepower from a dinosaur EA81 turbo engine , there wouldn't have been much Subaru left in it . Here in Australia the best legal EA82 Grp A rally engines cranked out 190 horses with Subaru's own kit of works parts . Let me see , single inlet port pushrod heads who's claim to fame was cast in injector bosses .

Really Allan ? What's your perfect solution to the ethanol pump question ...

Hi all , if your sick of fuel pumps threads go elsewhere . As many know I've been searching and asking about suitable E85 EFI fuel pumps for road use and from what I've read/heard pumps like Bosch 044s Nismos may not live long lives because ethanol doesn't lubricate like petrol does . I like the Nismo R33 GTR pump but it's a lot of money to throw at a pump that may wear out in a few years . The E85 pump that keeps popping up is this Walbro F90000267 which is a turbine pump and it's said to be very quiet . At 450 lpm it's not short of flow though too much can be a problem fuel heat wise . The other thing is that these pumps have the ability to drag high current at higher fuel pressures and this has caused problems at the tank lid terminals (R33) . Insight sells a gadget to get wiring into fuel tanks and I'll ask Scott about that one . Is anyone here using this fuel pump and do you get fuel heating issues ? A .

I'm just going round in circles ATM wondering what to do fuel pump wise , need it to live with E70 and it seems some fuel pumps may not be long term reliable with these high ethanol content fuels . Fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel and ethanol alcohol obviously doesn't do it as well as ULP so I guess roller cell pumps won't live as long . I'm going to start a thread on those Walbro F90000267 E85 compatible pumps . A .

Mark at GT Pumps has some dealings with FP , may be worth while asking him if he can make you up a 73 or 76HTA GT30 turbo . I need to ask him if he can do a HTA but with a T04E compressor housing , I reckon the bigger 0.70 AR S housing is a bit bulky for a 71 or 73mm comp size turbo . I know it's not the same thing but Garrett seem to be able to make reasonable power with GTX71 wheels in 0.60 AR T04E housings , the issue probably is that port shrouded T04E housings are thin on the ground except on GT30 BB turbos . A .

Things are getting a bit warm in here , no one really needs to justify their aims as long as they're sane . Two litres is fine when the rules say two litres . I have a mild interest in RB20s but for road and since my car has one an RB25 is what I use . I agree that for a pure race RB20 variable inlet cam timing doesn't achieve a whole lot because the revs are rarely below the point where a bit less overlap makes any difference . Different for a road car that sees lots of idle to 2500 revs use . Nissan never bothered with RB26s I reckon for the same reasons . Ultimately the best RB20 would be a shorter stroke RB25 or 26 because of the bigger bores and higher flowing heads , reworking cranks is expensive and the rules may call for an engine that started out as a two litre . I suppose the roads to reworking a std config RB20 is making the rotating and reciprocating mass as light as possible and using a non hydraulic valve train GTR style would be good . If you can change inlet manifolds individual throttles would give better throttle response but they probably need to be smaller than RB26 ones . Maybe something lifted from EFI bike engines could be made to work , pointless stuffing around for a nice idle in a race engine which simplifies things here . Also if the rules don't specify who's engine you use there may be something else out there that's shorter and lighter than an RB20 . A .

I asked a few people I know who have been working on road and in the past rally cars forever and the answer seems to be to avoid the complexity of PWM controllers because they introduce variables - more problems to solve . I think simplest way is to cop the damage and buy a Nismo R33 GTR pump because one it falls in and two it isn't over the top capacity wise . My GTS25T is already using an R33 GTR in tank assembly which is different to it's original 25T one - these mount the larger pump higher and have a length of hose down to the filter sock . I'd be very surprised if this pump couldn't feed enough E70 to get to 300-320 wheel wasps . Being a direct replacement means it's intended to live with the std GTRs current supply in as new condition . My pump was second hand and came as a complete drop in assembly ie from the lid down so must be 16 to 18 years old . The Nismo pump comes with a new hose sock and tank seal as well as the internal wiring and plug . FPCM wise I'll keep the std one unless it has problems and we are going to check the resistances of all pump wiring and renew as necessary . A .

Yep I splashed out on a TE WB3A2 and all manner of cables and adapters a few years back . It has all kinds of logging abilities most of which I'll never use . It's wired into a Vipec plug in nowdays and works really well . The only thing I ever did was drop it in to TE in Canberra to adapt it to their current fastest I think Bosch LSU 4.9 probe . It heats up faster than the one it came with and my tuner requested a new probe when the plug in was fitted and tuned . If you only want an 02 input for your computer you can buy them cheaper and not pay for features you aren't using . I use the small LCD display so I know what's going on when the lap top isn't online . I'd buy Tech Edge again , cheers A .

Actually after a lot of searching on Nissan FPCMs it looks like they have issues over time . They act up in Z32s and whatever cars had Q45s in them . One person suggested that when fuel pumps age and lemon out electrically they can pull higher current and overload the FPCMs , which in turn get hot and go the way of overheated circuit boards . Like people mention here they get bypassed because a flat out pump is better than an unpowered one . So I suppose the reliable fix is PWM control if you want pump speed control .

Why go looking for known problems if they are avoidable . 1000 people may do the full voltage rewire and run an 044 - but that doesn't make it a brilliant idea . I've been there before with hot fuel dramas and don't want a repeat problem . Anyway contemplating an R33 GTR Nismo pump or an 044 ATM . The Vipec plug in can do ether the GTS25T two stage or GTR 3 stage FPCM and probably only needs one extra wire from the ECU to do it . If it's good enough for a GTR then can't be bad on a GTS25T .

I don't ATM but I'm looking at higher volume pumps and I tend to think they would cause problems slothing around in Sydney traffic especially in warmer seasons . I like the idea of PWM systems but something has to control it and its something else to have to screw around with when tuning . I looked again at the Vipec plug in blurb and it mentions R33 GTRs use a three stage FPCM so that's worth a closer look since I use their box . It could be a way of running say an 044 pump which is cheaper than the drop ins and toning down the noise and volume when its not needed . A .

Yes I've been looking at FPCMs and while the PWM regulated ones may look good controlling them is a bit more involved . I don't mind the "dumb" Nissan style ones so long as you don't get the dreaded voltage drop in direct feed mode . This something that would be easy to fix if you had to wire your own bypass . I'm just looking into Z32 300ZX TT FPCMs ATM and they are "three speed" compared to the NA versions two . This is one aftermarket one I found a little while ago . http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=4132 A .

Hi all , I been reading about and looking into this fuel pump rewire business - and alternative fuel pumps as well . I found in this thread a link to the R33 Engine Manual and it shows diagrams of how the various fuel pump control systems work . http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390739-fuel-pump-circuit/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bpump+%2Bcontrol+%2Bmodule From what I gather they have ignition switched power via a 15a fuse to the fuel pump relay and the ECU earth switches the relay coil . Power is fed to the fuel pump and the pumps earth side is controlled by the Fuel Pump Control Modulator or FPCM . It seems how this works is the return to earth is via a dropping resistor though the FPCM has an alternate earth return bypassing the resistor . The ECU must switch a relay to operate this bypass . That aside , everyone seems to be rewiring their fuel pumps so the original power supply to the pump is used to switch a relay with a direct battery supply to the pump . Often the earth return is to the battery as well . Now pump wise we can do better than factory but I'm not so sure that having the full 14 volts (or whatever) to the pump all the time is a good thing . People have concerns about high volume pumps circulating a lot of fuel and it returning a lot of heat to the fuel tank esp with stop start driving or long periods at idle . It's this point that makes me wonder if the std system can be rewired so you keep the FPCM or similar but have newer and better wiring more suitable for big capacity pumps . I also wonder if the low voltage for idling can be lower than factory so real big pumps can be toned down volume wise for street duties . SK reckons pump voltage is pretty much proportion to pump volume so you get about 3/4 of the volume at 9v that you would at 12v . Possibly 2/3 at 9v than at 14v . I'm sure there are sparkys here that could come up with something if new wiring in the existing system couldn't cut it . Surely aftermarket ECUs can switch a bypass relay with certain conditions met and even if it screwed up you get enough fuel to get home . Thoughts ? Cheers Adrian .

It sounds like they intended the 20 Neo to be a high revving thing and it's a shame Nissan didn't turbocharge it . I'm surprised they changed so many things in the last years of the humble RB straight six and now it seems all V6s . The old L Series engines also went through changes getting into the emissions era , eg L24Es had long skinny conrods with small gudgeon pins and possibly small crank pins . Nissan cast iron liners into the exhaust ports you'd think to keep the exhaust temps up . I suppose the value in a 20 Neo is the head if it has shallower chambers and a few valve train mods to make them hang together at high revs . I agree that the way to tie it all together is to fabricate an inlet manifold and maybe even reproduce an RB20DETs lower half to suit the 20 Neo head . I think people would only ever do these things if they really had to have an RB20 and if they had the freedoms an RB25T Neo would make a better base . Actually IMO the best RB20 you could ever make would be a shorter stroke RB25 because it would rev well and benefit from all the bigger bore RB bits like heads manifolds etc . One off crank would be exy but the overall potential would be huge . A .

That's an interesting way to get the ported shroud in a normally plain housing . I's something that I'd like to see with T04E housings as well because it seems like HKS and Garrett are the only ones with port shrouded E housings to suit Garrett wheels . A .

Short manifolds and two integral waste gates , works but nightmare to work on unless you're assembling it and then dropping the body over it . A .

A mate of mine who knows wiring , and has a good collection of pin prods did mine . A sparky I once knew used to grind mig wire which is good because it's fine and stiff . Same result , cheers A .

Hi all , I've noticed that Nismo do different upgrade fuel pumps for R33 GTR and GTS25Ts . I was under the impression that the section inside the tank was the same except for the pumps themselves and you can drop the whole std 33 GTR assembly into a GTS25T . If this is the case is it possible to fit the Nismo R33GTR pump into a GTS25T because it's supposed to be a higher volume one than their GTS25T version . Cheers A .

No , wrong . All Series 3 Bluebirds had a H190 diff with 30 spline axles .

The advantage is less mass to accelerate which tends to be more noticeable in lower gears . IMO the greatest advantage of light flywheels is that the engine revs drop faster on the up changes particularly if you use high revs . Anyone who's drag raced with a manual syncro box knows how important this is . The downside is such a mod makes it easier to stall when taking off because there is not the initial inertia to send down the driveline . Also especially noticeable in a cammy cranky engine . A .

Yes well memory fades and yes we did start out with urea grade ULP . Anyway torque is king IMO and getting it in a reasonably free spinning package can only be good . I hear people say that in basic terms the difference between an RB25 and an RB30 with the same lid/CR is about 500 revs . I think at the end of the day the head and manifolds have a large say in the total power potential and the capacity dictates at what engine speed you reach the top ends limits . Obviously more cubes means more torque at the same revs or same torque at ~ 20% less revs than a 25 . If you soft pedal most places with small throttle openings and lowish revs then the 30 is good because it will pull higher gears down there more easily than a 25 . If you give it taller gearing , final drive , you will get a bit more speed in the gears and make the best of the extra low down torque . Life would be good cruising down the Hume at 110 doing 2500 revs and never having to change down . If you sized your turbo so its not trying to boost at these revs every time you touch the loud pedal and tune the engine properly it should get good consumption . A .

I just wonder about this hot fuel business with high Eth fuels because it obviously wants to boil a little more easily . The old Bluebird converted to EFI had a Carter lift pump and a Bosch 975 main pump and it used to have a few hot fuel issues with petrol . I also remember once wondering what would happen if a FPR was T'd off before the fuel rail and returned the fuel from before the rail not after it . In theory the rails still pressurised but all fuel in it can only exit via the injectors . Isn't this how late cars work only with a dumb (non manifold pressure referenced) FPR in the fuel tank ? May make for interesting hot starts ! Also I've been looking at pics of the Nismo drop in pump and it looks very much like a Z32 VG30TT one with the bracket made to suit OE rubber mounts . For 300+ RWKW these are probably a no brainer and OE Nissan Japan gear tends to be pretty good , its just the Scrooge in me wants to know if there is a slightly more "cost effective" solution . Also before I go these OE pump speed controllers , did R33 GTRs use "three speeds" where the GT25Ts had two ? I run a Vipec plug in and a 33GTR pump and I don't think I've heard its tone change except when the engine is close to stalling revs . Then it sounds like it slows down which can't be good . I think a battery supply rewire is needed here . Sorry so many cheers A .