discopotato03

No , sequential injection and six coil drivers . A .

Maybe look at aftermarket 32/33 RB26 cam to see if anything is available with the right lift and duration ? I though it was possible to remove the CAS drive and someone was selling new ones ? A .

Um no , the EFR 7163 will be the largest of the small series EFRs and it uses a different style of turbine - called mixed flow or something of that nature . I believe the compressor and turbine housings will be the same as it's three smaller brothers but the wheels are different . There are a couple of prototypes floating around for development but the production units are due out very soon . This is a link to Fullrace and shows a table of the EFR range , the new EFR7163 will be next after the 500 hp 6758 in that table and its aimed at making a broad spread of power in a compact size for that power range . You'd think same or better response/power than the bulkier 7064 otherwise why would they bother ? http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarner-efr-turbos.html It's just a shame there is no "T3" flanged twin scroll IW turbine housing for them . Geoff can tell you more about them , cheers Adrian .

Yes I note your points . Mine is thats it's not a biggie if your car was tuned on EFlex E70 and you wanted to or had to use United E85 for whatever reason . The detonation resistance of E70 and E85 may not be so different but going from one to the other with no other change shows up as an air/fuel ratio difference . My Tech Edge display showed about 0.03-0.05 difference but I wasn't going anywhere flat out . Now that it's available on my flightpath I am going to try United E85 with enough added PULP to make E70 just to see if anything changes drivability or consumption wise because as said I suspect the 30 or 15% "petrol" is some cheap mouthwash to bulk the volume out and make cold starting easier than with straight ethanol . I think I remember reading on American boards that the blending petrol content was some inexpensive base stock and to be fair it may help out with tank pressurisation in warm weather . I think it's this issue that supposedly drives the change in ethanol content in some places summer to winter . The burning question , sorry , is how well does the base rubbish burn and what does that do for fuel consumption ? Heat is where part throttle consumption is IMO and real petrol may give off more heat for the same volume of base stock rubbish so may be able to use less for the same heat . With the right AFR E70 and E85 probably make similar power in a sane street tuned car so if you can have E70 with at least half the dino content REAL PULP can it make a difference ? I'd like to go further on a tank of fuel not just for cost reasons but range reasons . Whats life without a challenge , cheers Adrian .

Hi Geoff , is the production EFR 7163 out yet ? I think quite a few are looking forward to this one .. A .

Is it possible to use an R32/33 RB26 exhaust cam in a Neo head and and retime it ? Solid cam so to speak with the right CAS drive ? It may pay to research the base circle diameters of RB26 and RB25 Neo exhaust cams . Just a thought cheers Adrian .

Yep on the south western cnr of Brunker and Rookwood roads . Funny you should mention concern at getting tuned for E85 or Eflex E70 . I was tuned on E70 and gave United E85 a go and yeah it felt a bit flat/lean which the Tech Edge shows . After about 50-60 km I added ~ 6L of Ultimate and after a short time my car drove almost as it had on E70 . It's not a problem using the E85 if tuned for E70 because all you have to do is throw in a small amount of straight ULP or prefereably PULP . If you assume Caltex is E70 and United E85 then the difference is 15% more Ethanol in E85 , to get back to "E70" you have to add the 15% ULP . If we assume you have a 55L fuel tank then 15% is 8.25L so thats how much ULP/PULP you add to a basically empty tank before filling up with E85 to get E70 . 8 litres of petrol is close enough IMO and 4 or 2 works neatly with 1/2 or 1/4 of a tank . Something else to think about is that adding 8 litres of straight 98ULP to 47 litres of E85 probably gives you a higher octane better quality fuel for half of the 30% petrol content than Caltex does . In a perfect world E70 would be 70% ethanol and 30% 98ULP and E85 same deal but I bet the oil Co's use whatever cheap garbage they can get away with for the "petrol" content . I should have another look at Yagoona United because if they have 100E10 you could probably throw 10L of that in to make up the petrol content if it's cheaper than BP98 . I don't think 1 litre (1.8%) either way in a tankfull is a biggie with these high ethanol content fuels but 1 extra litre of petrol probably runs and starts a smidge better . Cheers A . A .

Rubs hands together , thanks people Yagoona is a LOT closer to me than Minto and not that far from where I work . I know United Bass Hill has their 100E10 which the Evo likes but no E85 that I noticed . I think the Yagoona one on this map is at the corner of Brunker and Rookwood Rds or up and to the right of the A in the red marker at the center of this map . https://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=Yagoona&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x6b12bc3fa3845f51:0x5017d681632d130,Yagoona+NSW&gl=au&ei=MTvfUZ5s7YqJB9GagKgJ&ved=0CIkBELYD I assume its on the south or up hill side of the Shell there . Cheers Adrian

Everyone can make assumptions these are mine . R34s were getting into the ULEV era of lean burn mixtures so assuming fuel octane didn't change markedly something had to be done about combustion heat and detonation . I'm going with improved head jacket cooling to minimise chamber and valve head temps . Maybe not a huge performance gain but retarded ignition timing from detected detonation does'nt help with emissions or consumption . Smaller volume chambers . Less surface area to absorb heat and a lower piston crown to maintain the same 9:1 static CR . Non hydraulic cam followers . This allows more agressive lift rates so better cylinder filling without longer valve open duration . I wouldn't think hydraulic followers/buckets would like cams like these and possibly hard to keep things quiet . Shim or disc over bucket valve clearance adjustment is always MUCH easier to service than shim under bucket systems like say RB26s and FJ20s use . Over bucket means you can push the bucket down and change shims without having to remove the cams and buckets like you do with a 26 or FJ . Honestly under bucket is how a competition engine should be because the shim/cap is small and light and can't go anywhere at high revs . The over bucket shim/disc is the way to have a road engine so it can be easily serviced and doesn't need to see 7500+ revs too often . If starting from scratch I'd always use a Neo 25T head given a choice because with its native inlet manifolds solves the niggling issues 33 25T top ends have - like the hydraulic buckets - and the limiting side feed injectors . Matter of opinion but I reckon std GTt cams are better than std R33 25T ones because they open the valves faster . In a nut shell if you can get around the CR issues of that smaller chamber a turbo Neo head is as good as an RB25 head gets to be IMO . My 2c spent , cheers A . A .

I think you jump up a frame size going from GT35xxR to T04Z - which is a BB T04R . Cheers A .

Well , people still talk about wheels in inches and boost in pounds but no I think in terms of litres per hundred km and I'd love to get 10/100 . MPG is just quicker to type . When this tank full gets low I'll try 50 50 United 85 and Caltex E70 . Thinking about it I was running United 85 before the ViPec and tune so maybe my engine likes it better because it was getting better consumption round town then with the PFC and Z32 MAF . You'd think E70 having more "petrol" in it would get better mileage than E85 though the Americans suspect that what the oil co's put into some ethanol blends isn't real flash in the "petrol" component . Cheers A .

Are there any more United E85 service stations that have opened this year in Sydney ? Minto is still the closest and for whatever reason my 33 likes it better than EFlex . The other night I dumped a 1/4 tank of Minto85 on top of 3/4s of EFlex and my car seems to run smoother and is getting a few more MPG . We've got EFlex nearby but no local United 85 . Cheers A .

I don't remember you upgrades but Alex used to make his own twin scroll steam pipe manifolds and run an external gate . Expensive but an FP GT3076R HTA should do the job from what I hear . I would try to run EV14 top feed injectors like IDs and if at all possible E85 fuel because it really pushes detonation thresholds down . Cheers A .

Interesting how Michelin rates their performance tyres . http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/category/ultra-high-performance-sport http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+A%2FS+3+%28W-+or+Y-Speed+Rated%29&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=54YR7PSAS3&tab=Sizes A .

The problem is making the spark jump the gap when there is compression plus boost pressure in the chambers , the air density is quite high and if the current can find an easier path to earth it will take it . Before you even consider the electricals/electronics the rotor turning inside a cap gives issues . Any backlash in the drive gear/jackshaft gear shows up as timing inaccuracy . The one coil has to fire four plugs instead of one and EVERYTHING hinges of what gets through to the button via the coil lead and carbon brush . Then you have erosion of the four cap contacts and finally the resistance of the four plug leads . More modern engines use coil on plug or a waste spark system because you need high current to fire todays lean mixtures - and mostly that doesn't even figure in forced induction . Sadly FJ20s come from the very early 1980s (1981 was 32 yrs ago) when emissions were not as tightly regulated as they are now so the manufacturers didn't have to use super high voltages to fire even turbo engines running 7-10 pounds of boost . Honestly the simplist thing to do would be to run a couple of double ended coils close to the cam cover and four short leads , two coils makes things simller computer and cost wise . If you could crank trigger for the reference pulse you take all the inaccuracies out of the system too . The whole management and ignition system on an FJ20 needs to go over the shoulder if you want to make serious power because it's all dark ages stuff by todays standards . It'd kill me to do FJ20s again because there are some pretty good alternatives out there now . By comparison they are lighter more compact and have far better control systems . FJs drive you crazy with two timing chains you can't easily get at that want to rattle and getting at those under bucket valve cap shims is a PITA . Single coil distributor ignition system is just another problem to solve . People like FJs because they have big strong heavy blocks cranks and heads , fine if you are aiming for 700+ horsepower but way overweight oversize and overkill for 400 horsepower . If serious you're throwing away both manifolds and fabricating better ones . No smarts like variable cam timing either . I could go one but you et the picture , you need deep pockets and an FJ20 bent to go places with them . Just my 2c cheers A .

I haven't read the rest of the above linked review but one person said that it took some pushing to make his car drift and it hung on almost as well as Pilot Super Sports do and they feel pretty good on my car . Not sure what the wear rating on PSSs are . Remember I want better life than the PSSs gave and going a little wider can't hurt . I've had 235 and 245 so I want to give 255s a go and prefer Michelin . A .

Have to run ATM but will look into those later . Firstly I looked at the Michelin timeline and came across a recent development in the pilot tyre range . Its called Pilot A/S (all season) 3 and it became available in late 2012 and after the Pilot super sport - and available OS in 255/40/17 . I started reading this review which looks interesting but ran out of time . http://forums.corvetteforum.com/wheels-and-tires/3190984-my-review-of-the-michelin-pilot-sport-a-s-3-tire.html Might see if I can get a pair sent over and throw them on for a try , if these are almost as good as PSS and work over a greater ambient temperature range they look good . Probably too soon to know how well they wear compared to PS2 PS3 and PSS but being an all season rather than a maximium performance summer tyre maybe longer life . More later , cheers Adrian .

Hi all , interested in 255/40/17 tyres and the only good thing out of Michelin is Pilot Sport 2 which is probably a bit soft and quick wearing . ATM running 245/45 PSS and looking for a bit better life . Can at least get 245/45 in PS3 here , cheers Adrian .

This could be lengthy and not Nissan related . Scotty absolutely your call but I'd be researching MiVec 4G63 heads first because having variable timing on the inlet cam is supposed to make a considerable difference to the low end torque . Don't quote me but I think I remember reading that Evo 9 exhaust cams are the warmest of the std cams and the low end with a Mivec head is noticably stronger even with hotter cams .<br />Now I'm not 100% sure but I did read that Mivec was not just a VCT change and head cooling was improved behind the exhaust side of the chambers and exhaust ports . They use a smaller diameter long reach spark plug similer to bike engines and it's all to do with improved cooling and detonation resistance . I can't remember for sure but 9s may have run 17+ pounds of boost standard and with even good pump fuel they obviously found problems because its unusual for a manufacturer to spend money on an enging towards the end of its life . Emissions may have forced their hand a bit here .<br /><br />There is lots of info out there on stroking 4G63s but the thing I noticed was that the Japanese kits never went as far as the American or locally sold ones . Off the top of my head a 4G63 has an 88mm stroke and 85mm bore but the rods are a reasonable length . Mitsy made larger capacity 4G family engines like (numbers from memory)4G64 and 4G69 . The 64 uses a taller block and a bigger bore with a 100mm stroke crank . I think the 69 uses the same block height with a 100mm stroke crank and shorter rods . From memory the 69 is a Mivec engine cooling wise . The Americans are all over 100mm strokers and often use the taller 4G64 block to get a bit better rod/stroke ratio - its all there on Evom.net .<br />The Japanese do I think 94mm stroke kits and these may work a bit better in a 4G63 height block . Mark at GT Pumps has a 2.3 stroker 63 in his car and he did tell me that they can have bore ring issues if you flog the tits off them rev wise - too much thrust on the bores with 100mm stroke and shorter rods I suppose .<br />A feller at work has a different Evo 7 GSR with a Jap stroker kit and its an animal he reckons if he boots it around .<br />I believe it has a mild high flow but not to sure whats in it .<br />PLEASE don't try using same compressor family 18 and 20G wheels with the std TH05HR turbine , very easy conversion vith really laggy results . The jury is still out on the HKS BB 4G63 Evo turbo , early ones had I think wastegate arm problems something like Garretts GT3076R Evo 10 turbos did .<br />Also , best to start out with an Evo 9 style center section because the cold end "flange" is larger in diameter than the earlier 4-8 twin scroll reverse rotation turbos . The 9 turbos use a larger diameter diffuser section and the larger 9 style compressor housing won't go on the 4-8 turbos smaller "flange" so to speak .<br />Because the compressor housing is different the tube on the outlet is different I think to miss something on the front face of the engine . Aftermarket ones are said to flow a lot better than the OE 9s steel one and I think Mark sells the good ones . There may also be a minor difference in the oil drain tube and I believe the early one can work but to be 100% sure a 9 ones probably best . LOL I also read that you bolt it to the turbo before you mount it - saves some agro it seems .<br /><br />Lastly my tuner reckons that many of these "coloured" Evo turbo upgrades still lose torque down low an I reckon the more material you bore out of an OE turbine housing the less efficient the turbine/housing combination becomes .<br />Geoff Denmead sold me my E6 and I reckon he knows a bit about them because ha won his class at Pikes Peak a couple of years back . He continues to beat on the dirt and hill climbs other Evos with "cheater" or std "looking" turbos mainly because they loose the lower mid range you need in competition . He uses a bluprinted Evo 8 turbo I think with a 10.5cm turbine housing .<br />I think people confuse minimul lag with close short gearing in an Evo Lancer because that makes it easy to get away with engines lacking torque down low - and its this low to mid range torque in an engine that still revs freely to 7 that makes an Evo feel fast . With good tyres they explode out of the blocks provided the clutch is good because they can put all their power to the ground - all that low to mid range torque with solid all paw traction . When they lose this torque they feel a bit flat unless doing big rev launches and thats not going to be good for the driveline .<br /><br />I'll wind up with gearing . My 6GSR has close ratios 1-2-3 with larger gaps 3-4-5 which is fine on the road because the short one get you going . If you want performance over highway cruising the RS ratios are close 3-4-5 as well and the 6RSs had an optional 4.8 something diff ratios , I think GSRs are roughly 4.5 .<br />The RS gearing is supposed to be very quick driven flat out through the gears and they can take them all to the redline . The Evos had all this available through the Ralliart factory arm because they , the 4/5/6 RSs anyway , were Grp A homologation specials .<br /><br />Sorry one more , diffs . It your cars cained often think about losing the AYC rear one for the RS mechanical one because its lighter stronger and more predictable . ACD can be good and there are now people here who can flash it's computer rather than being raped by Ralliart for their black box .<br /><br />Having said all this I still miss driving my Skyline if its away being worked on and I have to resort to the white rat .<br /><br />Such is life cheers A .<br /><br />BTW I think the Evo 10s turbine housing is 12cm but that ones a clockwise rotation turbo . http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-turbo-drivetrain/414293-size-evo-x-turbo.html

If you can find a way to mount coils directly on the spark plugs and drive them from an after market brain you escape the 80s era distributor and HT leads woes . The trouble with boosting the std system is the cap and leads dramas with high energy ignitions . Many people mount a gang of four transistor coils somewhere near the cam cover and run short leads to the plugs , almost as good as coil on plug and much better than a dizzy cap and rotor button . Good reliable ignition system doubly important on forced induced engines , A .

Engine wise the Evo 7 (GSR) was a carry over from the Evo 6 but they changed (I think) to hollow camshafts and added EGR . Turbo wise the larger heavier Cedia based E7 went back from the Evo 6s 10.5 cm turbine housing to a similar 9.8cm sized one with the cold side unchanged . The std torque peak moved up noticably 500 odd revs from Evo 6 to 7 and I think they went looking for earlier turbo response to try and get some mid range squirt back . Also they would have been struggling with emissions in that 2001 era hence EGR etc . The 8MR and 9s also use the 10.5cm turbine housing but its not the same as the E6 10.5 , instead of two holes and two wastegate flat valves the later one has double "D" shaped outlets mirror imaged to form a circle and uses one large waste gate disc/flat valve . Many people consider them to be better than the E6 one and you'd think Mitsy changed them to get better results . The thing is Mitsy kept increasing std boost levels right through the Evo Lancer models up to I think 21 psi with the 10s . People say the early 10.5s can crack over time and replacing them fixes some boost issues caused by the leaking gates . Mark at GT Pumps used to sell an aftermarket 10.8cm direct replacement turbine housing which people like . I've been in a 7 with one of these on a std turbo with the IC pipe changed plus the exhaust after cast dump and E70 , its a bit of a weapon for a roadie and drives nicely as you'd expect with std valves cams etc . A .

I wouldn't need too many excuses to get rid of that ceramic turbine because they are firstly fragile and secondly a bit small . Anyhow it's the OPs call , his car his money . A .

All I can say is that for a time the OP6 type turbine housings were not super easy to find compared to the RB20 and 25 sized ones . Not impossible but took some searching .

Yeah the Evo 6 has PS3s in 235/45/17 and they are quiet and grip well , rather different dynamics compared to a GTS25T . Also I don't think Michelin made PS3s in 255/40/17 but I will check . And check OS suppliers because Michelin doesn't always bring in all sizes of each tire type ie PSS in 245/45/17 . The suspension issue may have been a collapsed rear Bilstein damper (leaked gas and oil) , haven't got the full story yet . A .

Having some suspension work done today , ride height going up from the original settings (SK Whiteline Bilstein kit) . Gary told me than when he originally set these kits up the users were supposed to come back after 1000 km to have the height checked because they tended to settle in the front . The feller I bought this car off didn't do this and it measured up a bit front low . I'm really tired of driving over humps and driveways at 0.1 KM/h and so the height is going up two or even three circlip grooves if they are available . I did ask Gary about increasing front roll stiffness and he said going up will increase this because at the current height the front control arms actually angle up towards the hubs which isn't real good . I've also had tyre rubbing issues though they mainly showed up going from 235/45 to 245/45/17 tyres . Just on tyres these Michelin Pilot Super Sports have not worn terribly well (rear) and drive traction isn't as good as I hoped they would be . Handling wet and dry has been really good though I don't tend to drive like a maniac on the street . I looked around for 255/40/17s in Michys and it seems they are available in a Pilot sport 2 . They do a 265/40/17 as well though not sure if thats getting too much for an 8 1/2" rim or if they would rub on things as well . Thoughts on this , cheers Adrian .