discopotato03

Just about to search for those adapters designed to convert a standard RB rail to hose barb , actually no not going to work . A .

Yep I think you've shown the way at post 18 of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372566-top-feed-fuel-rail-to-suit-standard-plenum/ I also added a link to an NZ site thats advertising a 900cc version of the short Xspurt injector . The important part seems to be that the shorty (40mm ?) Xspurts in a 14mm drilled rail will work though there is mention of some pipe below the plenum that has to be moved - or is that only if you use a GTt rail with the supply tube ? You spoke about another tapped hole in your rail and I gather that was the return hole for those using a twin feed system and a remote FPR . I was actually wondering if anyone made a screw in adapter so a standard style reg could fit on the front of those aftermarket rails . Thanks for your input Clint , cheers Adrian . Great flick that one .

According to this site they now do a 900cc Xspurt injector in that short length . http://www.msel.co.nz/Fuel-Delivery/Fuel-Injectors/Xspurt-Fuel-Injectors Cheers Adrian .

Well if I have it right short Xspurts are 40mm long and ID 1000s 48mm long . How short must R34 GTt injectors be to make the rail clear the upper manifold section ? On EV14s , yep ages ago I posted pics or links to the size of the moving parts in EV14s vs earlier Bosch injectors . I just wanted to know from the tuners how much better Xsperts are than Nismos are to tune with . Cheers A .

After more searching it seems the drama is that to run these injectors in their shortest form ie no top hat adapter the rail has to have 14mm bore holes and a lot of Japanese rails have 11mm holes . Sorry if I'm the only one who didn't know . Also people are talking about clips/locks and I know SFA about these other than I've seen pics of pretty coloured hats with clips on them ? Also "Xspurts" which look very similar to ID EV14s , spose I'm opening a can of worms but for the real tuners here are they better as in snappier/faster more accurate things than any side feed injector inc the aftermarket Nismos . And similar to IDs ones ? A .

Good write up but I was hoping someone managed to do something with a steel RB injector rail . I really don't like the pretty stuff and Nissans std regulator and return system works fine IMO . Is there a short ID1000 or Xspert injector that fits Nissan top feed rails or if adapters are needed shorter ones ? Also what about GTt inlet manifolds , big dramas to fit in an R33 ? A .

Searched , a lot , and not much conclusinve information online . This about ID 1000s the real ones and can they be fitted to an R33 RB25 factory inlet manifold and stay under the std top plenum section . Please no alternative solutions because I want to know the facts and others searching may get the answers they are looking for . That aside . R33 era RB25 inlet manifolds are a pain because they were set up to use the bulky unique side feed injectors and matching fuel rail , and that particular fad didn't last that many years - or even into the R34 era . Luckily Nissan didn't do this to R33 GTRs . Now as we know the bottom of side feed injectors is larger than your typical top feed injector so to use the latter you need to fit an adapter "washer" or flat disc to fit and seal on the lower inlet manifold sections larger seat . The side feed fuel rail isn't going to work for very obvious reasons . Personally I like to use standard components where possible and I don't care whos or what the part is off provided it fits and works properly . Nissan used steel top feed fuel rails on RB20s/RB26s/RB25 Neo and I'm curious to know if these can be adapted with spacers or whatever to clamp down on the RB25s manifold . If so that gets you a rail that "looks" factory as would the FPR on the front of it , and would be reasonably cheap . Assuming this is possible the next hurdles are the hole sizes in the rail and the length of the injectors themselves so it all fits under the RB25s top manifold section . I think I did read that there is a suitably sized ID1000 injector that drops into R34 GTRs and possibly R34GTTs and that may be workable in an earlier era RB25 . I did ask someone yesterday if its possible to fit a complete R34GTt inlet manifold to an R33 RB25 and get around the side feed issue that way , seems something is different port wise between R33 and R34 RB25DET engines ? And last , I don't want to hear about alternative side feed options or top feeds for that matter just whats involved to fit ID 1000s to an R33 RB25DET . A .

Scott reckons he likes one of the GT3071Rs - possibly the GTX one can't remember . I also agree its a great pity Garrett or HKS never made GT30 turbine housings in 0.73 AR with T3 flanges . T25 flanged HKS ones work well but not much good to us . I think with some mild head work and cams just about any GT30 based turbo should get close to or over 300 Kw on E70 or E85 . About my bus , it was set up with the Tech Edge WB input rather than the OE probe and we both think that may not have been way to go . Scott reckons the std probe would be more accurate around stoi and my Tech Edges probe is a little out compared to his NTK wide band - by about 0.2 lambda . He wants me to come back after a few tank fulls of E70 to be certain all the United E85 and Ultimate is out of the system . He set it a smidge rich just keep it safe until then . I think he prefers the Injector Dynamics EV14 injectors and said he could get closer to ideal idle and cruise AFRs with them . ATM I don't know the Vipec software and he said he'd load it for me next time with his "template" of what goes where because there is a large range of gauge etc options with them . I'd like to see the actual tables so I know what the numbers are like . I got to like my last PFC maps and I was finally getting real good part throttle torque and consumption . Anyway another learning curve , cheers A .

Yep FPs done a lot with those HTA conversions . David Buschur really like that one a screwed a lot of Hp and torque out of an Evo engine with one . As mentioned before note that these use the next family up (T04S) compressor housing and provided you can push significantly higher boost than most here do they make good numbers . Easily the sorts of numbers people though quite reasonable from a conventional GT3582R in recent years . A .

Well I'd say Scott found the limits of the GTRS and it sounds like a good result from the littlish fella . My ask was firstly this has to be a nice car to drive as in drivability start up consumption etc . I left it up to him how much boost to run and that turned out to be 18 pounds . Not sure what brand dyno Insight use . Anyway I'll find out what it drives like later in the day when I pick it up . Andrew not sure if I can get to you today because as you know its a bit away from my district and not the place to hang about for the afternoon peak hour - or four . May be able to meet at that place on the weekend ? So as to not be off this threads topic the 52T GT30R is still a possibility and I do remember reading here that someone went from a GTRS to a 52T GT3076R and had virtually no lag penalty . As mentioned Mr Mafia got over 300 wasps from his 3076R and that , like a GTRS , was wearing the small or 0.63 AR IW turbine housing . Beating the heat seems to be the big issue and it sounds like E70/E85 or in Mr Mafias case water methanol injection is doing just that . Now to give the wallet a rest a just drive the thing , cheers A .

Word from Insight is that the lil GTRS along with a few other mild mods on E70 cranked out 271 Kw at 18 pounds dropping to 15 . Should have it back tomorrow , cheers A .

How about saying you get what you get at the wheels and without an engine dyno session you won't know or need to care whats at the crank . The only gas worth breathing says remove any losses possible and get on with life . A .

The stories I've heard over the years suggest that GT2530s were probably the best all round on an RB26 , if you know where to look you may be able to buy them through Garrett these days . 446179-23 is the cartridge number from memory . 707160-9/GTSS (SAME) were never intended to be a big power turbocharger , they should do better than any OE spec ones including the R34 GT2554Rs and you lose the ceramic turbines . This issue's been round the block so many times you've worn through the tar . The story is that a GTR is a heavy car with a marginally sized engine for its mass . They need boost from torque to lift their skirts and the sooner the better if you don't rev em up everywhere . Nissan didn't intend them to be a suburban grocery getter but plenty of them are driven around the burbs . You should probably look at GTSSs as a mild mid range turbo for 2.6L GTRs and they sound like a good compromise for those not spending squillions or aiming at the moon . Without later technology its unlikely you can build something thats "a bit more" but a "bit less" than say GT2530s . There is no turbine thats in between what a GTSS and a GT2530 has and AFAIK the SS one is a smaller trim version of the same turbine . Also off the top of my head the housings on GTSSs (I think) may have the same AR ratios as OE GTR turbos and if thats the case there are no in between sizes here either . Ultimately you have to make the decision about where you want the power (torque) in an 26s rev range and live with that compromise . Because these are a reproductive receptacle of a car to work on you only want to do this once . If your glutton enough to have done it three times with new sets you should have either stroked it (the engine) or thrown a basic RB30 at it . I would never ever own one of these cars if I couldn't finance an RB30 and a pair of new 2530s (which are GT2860R 63Ts in actual fact) . Nice to drive around town and just about keep up with the traffic without reving the piss bags out of it . If you really like the sound of revs buy an X Box and a cap and wear it backwards - MUCH cheaper . A .

Well mine finally (fingers crossed) goes on the rollers Monday and will be tuned on E70 or E85 . With a bit better intercooling and a fresh CAS it would be nice to see 260 or even a tad more , probably depends on how well the exhaust works . I've tried to fix things that get tired on aging cars ie coils/loom/cas/pump as well as a few mild mods to make it breathe a bit more easily . I didn't set out originally to run the high ethanol fuels but theres probably enough of it around now , mainly Eflex , to make it possible . Gary reckons it solves a lot of heat related problems and I'm with Corky Bell in thinking these are the main enemies to beat with forced induction . So , the GTRS will be an interesting experiment and if this engine does really well particulartly at lowish revs I may try that 3076R 52T. I'm almost sorry I opted for the 0.82 IW housing and if I could swap for new I probably would . My theory , thats all it is , is that the ethanol fuel burns cooler and possibly makes the exhaust gasses cooler / more dense / easier to get rid of for a given housing and exhaust system . Mr Mafia did really well with his 0.63 housing and with a bit of smoothing in the passage it may be possible to make one a tad better . Anyway thats down the track somewhere , cheers A .

I'm told the deal breaker is the cylinder head and thats because the chambers valves and ports are significantly smaller in RB20 heads . Small chambers means no room for larger valves and the ports very likely won't open up as far . IMO adding more cubes below this head may make more torque right down low but as soon as it limits gasflow it probably won't want to rev . RB25 is the answer and its a factory developed production engine . If you really want to spend some dough how about putting an RB20 crank in an RB25 , still have to sort rods and or pistons but you'd have a top end screamer that can breathe . A .

Blitz in a dark shade of stealth .

Just out of curiosity Geoff , you don't like the crank collar and later OE style oil pump ? Cheers Adrian .

At the back of the head on the drivers side there is a rubber elbow , its a Pita to get tobut I think thats where the steel line starts . The go may be to go to an import wrecker and see if you can get the standard pipe that fits behind the head . My 25 has a GTRS kit on it and to be truthfull I'm not real impressed with HKSs braided line system . Thinking about it you should probably get second hand or new both complete turbo water pipes because they will have the necessary banjo housings as part of them . Get the banjo bolts and add new copper washers to make sure everything seals . Hint , there is a bracket bolted to the back of the I think inlet manifold which supports part of the wiring loom - from memory . Remove it and the idle air control housing and then you can get to that rubber elbow . I'd replace it because if it splits or cracks you cannot get at it easily by the side of the road and your engine will pump its coolant out . This is a really stupid system and Nissan should have picked up water low on the block (which they do) but returned it back round the front of the engine to the top water outlet RB26 style . If you got the 26 hard pipe that goes behind the cam pulley rear plate you could do this , just don't forget to block the head or manifold (whichever) at the back if you re route it . A .

Kirawee was around the 1.14 today . Question . Are people using that sensor from Haltech , which is a "Contenital" branded thing if you search , using those GM plastic quick connectors on them or just clamping on EFI hose ? If I had to do that I think I'd plumb it to the low pressure return side of the reg . Cheers A .

My view is that for a 4WD to work properly it needs to make good torqe at very low to mid range revs and who cares about top end . I also think twin cam heads do bugger all for most engines at very low revs , currently Nissan is having dramas with their V8 contender and not having a two valve head can be a disadvantage in a CR and rev limited engine . I doubt very much that a SOHC RB30 would give anything away to a twin cam one in the rev ranges that a diesel truck would use . Something to look into is the RB34 that is now available , these are a stroked and slightly bored RB30 and if cubes are everything to you worth considering . You would have to check but I think the rebuilt short motor is something like 5-6G in your lap . IMO the bigger the engine is the less boost it needs in a turbo app and you get a better more evenly shaped torque delivery curve or maybe plateau . I would be wary of high rev performance because it can be a little peaky and even road car engine power curves in a significantly heavier truck . Also high revs is where larger power numbers come from hence the diesels you speak of never have high Kw numbers - because they don't rev . Anyway provided an RB30 mates to your gearbox and you don't have legal issues its a reasonable plan . Otherwise if your truck doesn't owe you much sell it and find an earlier RB equipt GQ or whatever and go from there . Lastly , like most car lighter is always better but truck wise they seem to be getting bigger and heavier . A .

Well the $6400 dollar question is does the Plazma Stag job sit any higher (long duct wise) than the Blitz R33 one . I know there is a considerable price difference between the two and I'm curious to know if yours is further up out of harms way . My cars not on its floor pan by any means but it does have 245/45/17s on it now and near full lock the tyres scrub a little and thats just with my little over 100 Kg in it . I Must measure ground to arch height and see if the SK kit has settled any over the years , I do have to be carefull in driveways and over speed humps and having a low cross pipe would be a bit of a worry . Didn't think to look under mellow yellow , cheers A .

I've only seen the one install in an S1 R33 , maybe the S2 people don't like them ? I gather these intercoolers can't sit any higher because of the bonnet latch system . Hi Andrew , didn't look at the Stag one on the Plazma site but I will now . Pics would be great , cheers A .

Does anyone have pics of the Blitz Turnflow from underneath ? Woolverine mentioned a Plazmaman turnflow but I haven't sen one of those . Cheers Adrian .

After searching for ages I found this install job on I think an S1 GTS25T . http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/200888-blitz-lm-almost-fitted/page__st__20__p__3578674__hl__blitz%20turn%20flow__fromsearch__1#entry3578674 If anyone has pics of an S2 with this kit installed can I see them please . Mine is a 96 S2 , do they have more room behind the bar than an S1 ? My only concern is how low that tube is under the core and how likely is is to get crunched/crushed . Thanks again , cheers Adrian .

Tune due soon and really need something better than an R34 SMIC . I never could track down the Trust vertical flow IC so it looks like having to be a Blitz return flow SE . I don't want any non std ducting in the bay and keeping the std crossover pipe recirc valve and airbox means it all looks std . I'm using a GTRS which you virtually cannot see and the biggest I'd ever go is an IW GT3076R . My power interests are not at higher revs and if airflow wise this system can support 270-280 then thats enough for me . I like the idea of RB30s but can only justify that if my 25 bottom end dies . 270-280 was always going to be plenty with either size motor and I just need to be sure the Blitz IC will cope . Thanks in advance cheers Adrian .