discopotato03

I'm sure most of you know but I didn't know until Ross told me that the power steer drive pully offset on the balancer is different RB26 vs RB25 and RB30 . So obviously if you used the RB26 version on a 25 or 30 the pump has to move forward to line up . Likewise if you put the 25 version on a 26 the pumps own pulley will be too far forward . A .

Going to be an expensive Power FC , maybe consider a better computer and sell the late PFC . A .

Done properly copper cores can be good but the old OE ones had the finns/gills "glued" to the flat sided tubes with solder and its high lead content makes solder a poor conductor . The eco Nazis hade lead and copper and just about priced them out of te mass market . Also by comparison ally core composite tank radiators are significantly lighter and more compact than the 70s era copper and brass radiators . Core design . To each their own but I don't like multi pass radiators because they halve the flow path increasing resistance to flow . I also dislike multi row cores because where there is gaps between the rows of tubes there are no gills or cooling ability . In other words a significant increase in depth or thickness if you like for not that much of an increase in heat transfer . If you get the chance look in the top of a multitube core and note how deep the tubes aren't . It makes me wonder if it was a cost cutting exercise using commonly available tubes and finns . I reckon the best OE style core I've seen is the Koyo R32 GTR one I used to use mainly because it has a single row of tubes that are quite deep , something like 20-25mm , meaning a lot of surface area for the finns - and a lot of finn area too . Something else to possibly think about is engine tuning to see if you can find ways to get enough power / torque while minimising heat into the cooling systems . Examples I've been told about is RBs being slightly short changed exhaust valve wise and playing around with exhaust cam timing can at times reduce coolant temps . Years ago I read about people ceramic coating chambers/exhaust valves/exhaust ports to keep the heat in the gas and out of the head and its cooling water . Lastly rather than the RB 6 is it possible to get enough power out of an inline KA24DE+T , because if it is you get to use an OE engine option thats a lot shorter than an RB25 and possibly easier to cool with more conventional style cooling systems . I wouldn't mind betting someone in the US has tried drifting in a turbocharged S14 240SX and found any issues . Typically their aftermarket has just about everything you'd ever want for a KA24DE engine . The longer stroke may actually help put the torque where you want it for a drifter , worth checking . Something to read . http://forums.nicoclub.com/drift-topic-ka24de-t-vs-sr20det-t516219.html A .

I would prefer something supposedly Japanese made because I lack faith in things made on the cheap . The Tomei at ~ $200 is looking good ATM . Cheers A .

Been researching RB adjustable exhaust cam pulleys so as not to be beaten around the head by the please search brigade . Needs facts on more vs less (5 vs 3) clamp bolts and mainly what just works reliably . Don't give a rats how pretty because not buying to look at . Based on 5 bolts the Tomei looks the goods but mass wise the 3 bolt HKS seems popular . It would be good to know of a safe pulley to use that also had accurate graduations because I hear some brands are not accurate . Just the facts please , chears Adrian .

I'm a bit finicky with cooling cores and I know for a fact that extra depth and or rows of tubes isn't always the best way . People who've been in the radiator game for a generation will tell you that the hot side or top tank is always the one that dies on these OE type radiators and replacing them and if need be the core generally works out ok . These Chinese radiators must really have some depth if they are 50mm (almost 2 inches) deeper than a std OE one ? I still have an R32 GTR Koyo radiator I bought brand new for my Bluebird FJ20 conversion years back and I haven't looked at it for a while but I seem to remember its core being ~ 20-25mm deep and I don't remember std GTRs being chronic overheaters . Five cm is actually a fair bit of room to lose and I doubt Nissan had it that way in a car that had to mount and use three cooling cores by accident . Absolutely your call but its common to have issues std systems don't have when you go away from the way the factory had it . My suggestion is to beg/borrow a std Skyline radiator and working hub and see if the problem still exists . A .

Out of curiosity how much deeper is your radiator than an R32 GTS or GTR ? I would have thought that a 32 GTR one would be adequate for a Neo engine and not take up any more effective fan depth ? Cooling systems can be tricky things because it doesn't begin and end at the rad core . Airflow has to be good in front of and behind the core in the bay because if it isn't the worlds biggest rad won't cool properly . It can be very easy to overkill in some areas and that can have side effects in others . One thing R32-34 Skylines are not short of is radiator face area but as soon as you put non std things in front of them or compromise airflow behind them they may not work as well . A lot of people find that the closer to the engine a radiator gets the worse the cooling tends to be and I think this may be because the post rad air has to turn sharper bends to get around the physical engine and fan hub . Its probably then harder for it to find its way out around the gearbox and tunnel and flow underneath . If it were me I would be comparing the depth of you rad an a 32 GTRs one . Then look at any cores in front of it ie AC and FMIC , how well is air flowing through them . Neos have an 82C thermostat and I'd replace that with the 76C one if possible . Not the silly 61 odd C one . If a genuine fan hub costs 350 and you want OE performance and reliability do that , even if if means buying cheaper from say the US . Is there anything non std in your engine bay that would affect airflow through it ? A .

My old Zoob RX Turbo used to pressurise its fuel tank in hot weather and if it was real hot (hight 30s/40 like today) I didn't tighten the cap . Its hardly going to fall out and I'd nip it up if I stopped anywhere . I think you can get weird things happening because the pump is trying to return fuel to the tank which is at higher than normal pressure . I think some of these problems occur because the fuel pump is circulating a lot more fuel than is necessary for the power being used and its possible that at low speeds the steel fuel lines may be absorbing some radiant heat from baking hot roads . I think manufacturers have sometimes integrated a heat exchanger into the air con system because of fuel temp problems in hot hot weather , may have been an early V12 Jag can't remember . A .

Garrett 707160-9 , why go to all that trouble with bush bearing turbos or ones with ceramic turbines . PITA doing twins on RB26s so worth the effort to have something usefull and reliable even if it costs a bit more . You'd hate to have to do it twice , cheers A .

Pressure in the fuel tank doesn't help . A .

Just out of interest could you could try releasing any pressure in your tank by cracking the filler cap before you shut down .

I think if you are VL centric the best would be an original turbo car mainly because the important bits are already there and you are not replacing the whole driveline . I feel like I've spent a lifetime taking local content parts out of locally built "Japanese" cars and it only ends when you buy Japanese built cars . With VLs I think the best part was the Japanese engine and gearbox and they almost look a bit lost in an Australian built car . As a platform VLs were alright and the best I can say about them is that they are reasonably light and compact for a three litre car . The things that arguably let them down are the five link live rear end and the Macpherson front struts . Skylines from R32 on have mulitilink independant rear ends and an interesting double link upright front suspension style . They get fiour piston front and opposing piston rear brakes and the raditor height and support panel format are higher than a VL which reduces cooling issues . Anyway mechanicals aside a VL possibly has a little less of the kid ratbag image than an imported Skyline and that may appeal to some , not sure what the cops think but I guess that depends on how you car looks in the height/tint/ doof doof stakes . A few years ago an associate of mine had a VL turbo with a 26/high mount GT35 in it and thought it was a blast , until his missus out dragged him in some Hi po AWD Audi wagon . The VL found a new home quick smart . If it was me doing a VL it would have an RB30 because the bore stroke rod and block height is a better formula than an RB25 - and its the native engine meaning a lot less legal hassles . All the 25 has going for it is piston oil squirters and the better top end . To run less capacity probably means using shorter gearing so I can't see a gain anywhere . As mentioned you can make quite reasonable power with the single cam head though that may require warmer cams and a bit less refinement than a twin cam one . Only you can know how much you like your car and what you're prepared to spend on it , BTW have a look at what hotted up VLTs sell for before throwing bulk money at it . You may be able to pick up someones expensive project and save on the devaluation at the same time . Also an original should hold its value a bit better than a clone because its " a real one " . You call , cheers A .

Hmm , didn't think of the 34 GTR aspect but will check . I think when I got my Splitfire coils there may have been a reference to R34 GTRs . JJ isn't too far away and no freight charges tip the cost in their favour , Nissan is better again but have to ship from Melbourne . Thanks all , cheers A .

Yes another RB25 coil pack loom thread . From Kudos and JJs sites . S1 RB25DET - 24079-75T00 S2 RB25DET . 24079-84T00 NE0 25DET .. 24079-5L300 Nissan tell me that the R33 S2 coil pack loom 24079-84T00 is no longer available . The above mentioned sites show coil pack loom 24079-0V000 supercedes the S2 RB25DET (24079-84T00) one but Nissan say that cross references to an R34 part which is still available . Can someone confirm that the 24079-0V000 will work on an S2 R33 RB25DET because I don't want to order through Nissan if it doesn't fit . Cheers A .

96 GTS25T at 108K . Just wondering if these coil pack looms degrade over time given the environment they live in . Like coils do most people replace them ? Cheers A .

Ok sorry confused . I just spoke to Ross himself and it sounds like what I need is basically what Paul has which is the sensor pulley and Hall sensor to suit , in my case , an RB25 . He said all the pulley offsets are std , slightly different PWR steer wise to RB26 , and the Hall sensor mount has to suit the sump pan being used ie RWD steel/4WD/4WD + adapter plate ie 4WD RB30 . Sensor wheel tooth count . Using 36-2 means that with their electrical converter box you can run (I think) computers looking for the std systems CAS only signals . I like the idea that you can make a sub loom that splices into the CAS wiring so you can run the crank trigger or just the std CAS output if you ever had to . The thing I need to confirm is that a Vipec Skyline plug in computer can be made to run the engine either way and then I'm in . I need Paul or Yavus to confirm this . Cheers Adrian .

Thanks everyone for the feedback particularly on the Ross kit . It is interesting that using a brand new OE CAS just for the cylinder reference pulse still made the signals saw tooth like . My guess for what its worth is the belt drive and optical pickup system . I suppose if someone really wanted to use a std appearing CAS they could gut it and possibly rig a Hall sensor to read off the original discs anchor pin but its still fiddly work and costs money . I guess the question to ask with the full Ross kit is does it take a few more crank revs to fire up initially , and if so is that a problem ? Cheers Adrian .

GTSboy I tink you've put the picture across pretty well and highlighted the point of enough trigger events to track rapid engine transients but not too many possibly causing "overlapping" crank/sync issues . I did a bit of searching at Evomnet because I remembered David Buschur and some mob in the US doing a crank trigger plate for Evo 4G63Ts with more teeth . Std they use a pressed steel disc with two long teeth so to speak and a Hall sensor , it's clamped to the front of the crank by the lower timing belt drive wheel and I think acts as a guide for the balance shaft belt . AFAIK they run a cam reference or sync Hall trigger and use a waste spark ignition system . I had a link to a mob called something like triggerdisc and interestingly they mentioned that Hall sensors are supposed to be more accurate and reliable that photo optic ones , not sure if there's anything in that . The more I search the better the Ross system seems to look and I intend to contact them to see what a minimal kit costs ATM . I have a link to a thread here where Piggas (Sp ?) used an early Ross system on his engine . http://www.skylinesa...s-with-results/ http://blog.rossperf...am-trigger-kit/ Ross has optional bits for their RB system like the dry sump pump cog and an alternative drive/sensor/housing for the cam trigger but Mr Piggas used a std looking CAS , and I don't need the oil pump drive . I'm curious to know what a basic system of crank pulley and Hall sensor/mount costs and I also like the idea of retaining the std CAS . For Mr PIS086 yours would be the simplest cheapest option but the one downfall could be if the outer or pulley section started to creep on the rubber dampening material . I don't know if RB pulleys do this and doing a new one is probably good insurance . Also if it had six notches it would double its resolution . I'm not insulting your idea at all because its so simple . Will speak to Ross soon , cheers Adrian .

Yes interesting idea thanks for that pic . For those of us that haven't had much to do with RB crank pulleys is that a modified RB25 one and do you have any pics of the back of it ? I'm all for simple mods particularly to std components and if the notches don't damage the belt that's probably as simple as it gets to be . The thing I'd like to know is does having more notches make the tuning results any better . I've read about toothed wheels having different numbers of teeth based around dividing into 360 ie 36 30 24 for 10 12 and 15 crank degrees . Someone thats really into the electronic side would know if its necessary (for some computers) to have the tooth/notch count divisible by the number of cylinders as well . Compared with rocking up to Nissan and being bitten $1300 for a new CAS this is lookng really good IMO . Cheers A .

List price through Nissan is $1300 ex Japan ...

Finally got around to doing this , removed the green/white wires pin from the Hicas computers plug and taped it up . No more yellow dash light so no silly Qs at the next rego check . Cheers A .

Fun stuff with a Mitsi CAS , thats the Mitsi J926 sensor BTW and in another link I'll post in a sec it looks like the Hitachis are a bit harder to rebuilt especially if you wanted to use an aftermarket sensor wheel . http://www.rbz32.com....php?f=10&t=858 These butchers need to learn about soft jaws for the vice and preferably use a hydraulic press . This ones about changing the disc in a (I'll assume Hitachi CAS) which uses pressed on rings to hold the std disc in place . http://forums.nicoclub.com/anyone-take-a-cas-apart-t369130.html Note the difference in the Hitachi RSB14 optical sensor . A .

Ok , from digging around it seems that there were/are two optical sensors made by Mitsubishi and Hitachi . I think the Mitsy one is Pn J926 and the Hitachi RSB14 or RSB014 . Taiwan Ignition System (TIS) is making replacements with their own number ie Mitsy J926 = TIS242 and Hitachi RSB14 = TIS 203 . I'll try to talk to Rockdale Nissan to get prices on CAS units and the internal sensors at least for my Mitsubishi CAS if available . Cheers A .

I'm only looking for part numbers because armed with these you have a chance of finding them . Looks to be Nissan RSB-014 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CRANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-REPLACES-RSB-014-NISSAN-BLUEBIRD-PINTARA-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-/190716923667?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c679d4f13 For the work involved in changing the pickup I wouldn't buy a no name POS if I could get a genuine or at least Japanese made replacement part . A .