discopotato03

Well I am a bit of an tawd goat at nearly 46 . You know the years are climbing when every thing you think of was 20 years ago . Yes FJ20s and the turbo versions are great things but their physical size and weight is something else . You could nearly live with them but the two staggered twin row timing chains with the water pump in front on the timing cover makes them so long . Notorious for timing chain rattles and you virtually have to pull the engine apart to fix them . Head off to get the front cover off properly and sump off because some clot decided the oil pickup tube should have a brace and bolted it to the inside of the timing cover . The top chain tensioner backs out in time too much before oil pressure is up meaning rattle rattle rattle when you fire them up . Mine was freshened up twice and I really should have got Jacko to make be an adjustable one like the works FJ20 and 24 engines used . Basically a piece of thick angle iron with a threaded hole and a long bolt and lock nut on it . When the guide wears enough to let the chain rattle you loosen the locknut and screw the bolt in to take up the slack and tighten the nut . If the chain isn't slack it doesn't eat the chain guides so win win . Anyway I liked the GT2860RS on 2L engines because they pull AND make some part throttle squirt without revving the tits off the engine hich makes great road performance . If Id wanted to drag race it would have been a GT3076R and I thought about them , but , the Garrett GT30 T3 flanged IW turbine housings werent then available and the HKS GT Pro S version poisonous money . Most people then were using some form of T3/T04B or e hybrid and they were laggy imo . No I think a GTRS is the go when you want power and response and don't want to compromise the daily driving you do 90% of the time . I don't lair around in my Skyline and even with a std turbo it can at times feel a bit tractionless . The Evo VI just does it so easily and has real good traction to match its real good standard power . Its the reason why I wouldn't put big power into a 2WD car . That laughabit isn't mine sadly . The exact line was "has the sort of ports that a black man could put his penis into" and it was in relation to those hidious Ford 4V 351 Cleveland heads . Another history lesson . FOUR V means four venturie as in carburettor not four volt or four vulk . A .

It was inspired by this article I came across purely by chance in a friends magazine . http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0306scc_project_nissan_silvia_part_2/index.html I still have that mag at home hidden from my wannabe zzzzzzipppp psshhhhhtttttt knuckle head son . The name Disco Potato came from an American car called a Sentra SE/RE , it was a B13 that had a very similar driveline to a Pulsar SSS only where we had N13/14/15 they had LHD B13/14/15 and the 13 had an NA SR20DE . Some wag did a job on the thing with that unique colour changing paint and because of its baked bean shape someone dubbed it the Disco Potato . In the same era a , I think production engineer at Garrett in America (JCav) , was racing a Mazda Miata/MX5 and had at his disposal all the bits to brew up any turbo he liked . So he put togeter the 76T GT28 turbine and the 62T wide tip 60mm GT compressor and used big housings on it ie the GT28 0.86 A/R turbine and a T04B compressor housing . It was so responsive that it was decided to make some prototypes and one found its way onto the Disco Potato Sentra B13 . Discopotato02 was the S13 240SX with the SR20 and DP turbo in it and 03 was my old Bluebird Ser 1 TRX with the FJ20 in it . I had a steam pipe FJ20/T28 flange manifold made to suit my GT2860RS because FJs come standard with T3 flanged T3 turbos . I talked Brett at GCG into importing the first 6 DP turbos into Australia and I got the first one for the old Bird and it worked quite well for what I wanted , bloody lucky I only ever got nailed once in that car and not when really playing up . Most know what FJs are like with their big 89mm bores and medium 80mm stroke and the ports are something an African man could put his penis into ... They are tough as nails and rev like a turbine and they pull like Bart Simpson with a DP turbo on them . A .

I was just thinking about RB25s and GTRSs getting to around 250 odd RWKWs with supporting mods , and wondering if E85 would push a bit further to say 270 at the treads . I suppose the limiting factor with a GTRS would be its 0.64 AR GT28 turbine housing , I'm wondering if E85 gives lower combustion temps and EGTs and if so can a bit more exhaust flow for a given turbine housing size . Anyone using E85 and a GTRS in their Skyline ? Cheers A .

With a street RB25DET I don't think its the GT28 turbine , HKS 2530 in todayspeak is a GT28 based turbo , thats so much the problem rather the 60mm compressor wheel . Most here say that GT2530s , 2830 really , run out at about 220 RWKW and that the HKS GTRS or GT2871R with 52 trim compressor goes to maybe 250-260 RWKW depending on other mods and tuning . I don't think I've seen too many people complain about these GTRSs except if they went looking for 270-300 RWKWs . The people with GTRSs really like them for general use because you don't have to rev RB25s very much to get some squirt . Also with the right bits its a very straightforward install compared to GT30 based turbos and their non std style turbine housings . I suggest you speak to Woolverine here as he's had RB25 Hi Flows/GTRS/GT2835 Pro S on his cars so he can make direct comparisons . Last I heard he was looking to spend more time tuning with the GT2835 Pro to try and get back some of the nice response that his , mine now , GTRS had . My gut feeling is that GT3076Rs are a bit big in the wheel trims , turbine and compressor wheels , to have what most would call good all round performance . Garrett steadfastly refuses to reduce the trim size of GT30 and GT35 turbines like they did with the larger ball bearing GT37 and GT40 based turbos and while big trims are good for high end numbers they are hopeless when it comes to having overall power with acceptable turbo response . Its the reason why Mitsubishi TD04/TD05/TD06 turbines often work better than Garrett GT30/35s do . Another thing we are sadly lacking is a Garrett type GT30 turbine housing with T3 flange and integral wastegate , if these could be machined to take the cropped GT30 turbine , the inaptly called 28 in 2835 series HKS turbos , these cropped GT3071 type turbos would easily bolt up to RB25s etc . Such a turbine housing in 0.63 AR should make a good thing with a 52 or 56 trim 71mm compressor . Anyway my vote goes to a GTRS or possibly a OP6 based GCG Hi Flow . I know its hard because neither is what youd call cheap new but people have to think twice about equating $ to max RWKWs . A responsive good all round turbo sollution often costs more than one that works up high at the expense of low to mid range squirt . The HKS turbos aways cost more than similar Garrett marketed turbos and while some of this is "HKS Tax" they went to some trouble at times to develop and fit custom housings that change the performance of Garrett ball bearing cartridges . For example those port shrouded compressor housings on Nissan RB spec GTRSs and GT2835 Pro Ss make a big difference and they were not fitted just for show . The T3 flanged GT28 turbine housings on RB spec HKS 2530/2535/GTRS are unique and I really wish they'd made them in 0.86 as well as 0.64 ARs . All these use GT28 turbines too BTW . These turbos may not pump 20 pounds of boost into an RB25 at 7000 revs but they pull up well down low where people drive most of the time . I think it'd be a lot easier to "fall off the turbo" between gear changes using say a GT3076R with the 0.82 AR turbine housing , if the GT30 got 270 Kw and the GTRS 250 then your not very far behind but you can use it 90% of the time rather than 60 . You can get torque from boost at more legal speeds with the GTRS and thats where cars are 90% of the time . Anyway your call , I hate cars that you need to rev to make any worthwhile performance . They are tedious to drive and lag is NOT forplay for power IMO . Its one thing to coax and court a bird but once you buy the book it should be down to a bunch of flowers and a bottle of somthing good . Who wants to wait a week for - what was it , yeah - boost .

The other option is to track down an OP6 Hitachi turbine housing and have it machined to suit your turbine . Your calls but IMO you cannot compare a 0.64 and 0.86 AR GT28 turbine housing in the same way you'd compare 0.63 and 0.82 AR GT30 turbine housings . The difference with the GT28 housings flow wise is not as great as with GT30 housings even though the AR numbers are similar . Like I said earlier the 0.86 GT28 housing still brought my GT2860RS up reasonably early on my old FJ20ET . I wouldn't hesitate to use a real T3 flanged GT28 0.86 AR turbine housing on an RB25 if such a thing existed , sadly they don't and I think the closest thing is the OP6 turbine housing of Z32 single turbo VG30 four cam engines and some R34 GTt turbos . A .

I find the simplest way is to get the Banjos and their bolts from some OE application and use the original steel lines to get far enough away from turbo/exhaust heat then use EFI hose to join things up . When I had a Garrett GT2554R fitted to my Subaru I bought second hand turbo water pipes from an SR20 and reused their banjos and bolts with new copper washers . You can with a tube bender reshape them to whatever you need and cut to your required length . The steel lines take any amount of heat you can throw at them and if supported properly don't break . This is the cost effective sollution that looks factory if fitted carefully . A .

I don't know of any mm lift at top dead center method . That sounds like an ah alternative way of setting the cam timing based on overlap and not my first choice . There is a way of looking at duration at 50 thou lift to work out how agressive some cam profiles are . If you use std pulleys I'd set them up as std and with adjustable ones start out with them zero'd . If the valves are hitting the pistons then the cams have too much lift or the cam timing is a long way out .

Well for my 2c I've seen people get what they think is a reasonable compromise from an externally wastegated GT3582R on RB26s . The last one I went behind was in a VL and it was typical RB26 in a reasonably light (1400ish) car . I don't think it had big cams and felt reasonable with a 1.06 AR Garrett turbine housing . The owner reckoned it was scary fast and borderline uncontrollable on full boost . Poor fella , his missus works in an Audi dealership and brings home toys on weekends . He said she lined him up in some sort of TT V6 AWD auto thing and absolutely wasted his pride and joy ... Dreams destroyed he didn't keep the VL for long after that .

The storey I get is that all turbo RB25s and 26's have the same size and shape chambers and valve head diameters as well . A look around in aftermarket valve circles will tell the storey here if not in factory WSMs . You could also look around for std reeplacement R33 and R34 RB25 pistons to see if the crown height/style/dish volume is the same . I tend to think the six throttles and twinned turbos give a std RB26 lower restriction gas paths at high revs . People should think of compression as dynamic rather than static and I think in many cases the 26's would be higher dynamic once the throttles opened up more than a tad . I think the main difference between std 26s and Neo 25s is that the Neo would make better part throttle torque because its not intended to be a power at revs engine like 26s were intended to be . I think valve train wise hydraulic cam followers , buckets if you like , are going to be significantly heavier than plain buckets , "solids" , so less valve train innertia for the valve springs to have to control . Hydraulic buckets are all about no maintenance because they self adjust enough under normal operating conditions . It is a major and expensive PITA to have to reset clearences on an under bucket shim engine like an RB26 or FJ20 . Belt off pulleys and cams out to remove the buckets so you can get at the shims . It always made me wonder why people ran single throttle and single turbo RB26s particularly if it was in a RWD car , if they changed pistons rods and cams then about the only minor differences are the stroke and slight port differences . Some might argue that a 26 block is a bit stiffer but how many people break blocks in a RWD car ? The jury is still out about twin scroll single and parallel twin turbos so IMO probably the best thing 26s had was the six throttle inlet system and possibly the water riser/log system . If you can live without these then a Neo should be cheaper to buy and still have the non hydraulic bucket valve train . A .

Well this is my opinion so maybe food for thought . A cooling system has a finite ability or capacity if you like to reject heat and if you overstretch it nothing will the prevent the system temperature rising . With radiators the cores are designed to have thin tubes with turbulators inside them which gives a lot of surface area to transfer heat in the coolant to the air passing over the tubes/gills . The turbulators are there to "agitate"the coolant enough to prevent laminor flow and reduce the boundary layer insulation effect . I'm not sure if its possible to pump coolant "too fast" through a properly designed radiator for a given application . We really have to lose the multi core urban myth because if anything deep thin core tubes make the best use of a heat exchangers physical size . You don't see "multi core" intercoolers for this reason . As was mentioned a big difference in air and coolant temperature makes it easier for a cooling system to attemp to run at a constant temperature which is naturally why fewer cars overheat in winter like now . If theres problems in the system engines still can its just that it can get by generally with less capacity before problems become obvious . And to specialist parts . Nismo like Ralliart make things like coolant thermostats that open at lower than standard temps and no doubt water pumps designed not to cavitate at higher average engine speeds than the manufacturer expects road cars are expected to use . Using them is fine when an engine is worked harder and rev'd higher than roadies generally are , its not at all surprising to me that issues arise from using specialist parts in road cars - driven like road cars . I believe its a case of thinking that the people who designed the things in the first place somehow screwed up - which they didn't . Personally I don't think a water thermostat that opens at 68C and actually regulates at that temperature is a good idea on a road car because no manufacturer deliberately designs a road car to do that and you have to wonder if oil temps get to where they need to be . Would I be right in thinking people do this with the idea that when everythings cooler they have a greater temperature buffer before they think temperatures get out of hand ? I would add that if the heat exchanger/s were up to the task then this extra buffer by running cooler is more of a negative than a positive . Now I don't want to start a Nissan/Mitsubishi war but I think the later Evos are good examples to look at because they were not short changed when it came to cooling water oil and air . A 6 like mine std has an 82 degree opening thermostat and because they run a separate oil cooler they chose to use a thermostat for oil as well and its opening temperature is 100 degrees C . They are a transverse engine meaning have to get air to all three cores and out again because if you cant get the air out more can't get through . With Skylines and RB engines from memory the coolant thermostat opening temp is about 76 which by todays standards is not very high . I remember some Fords running water thermostats up at or near 100C and I'm only guessing but I suspect this had to do with getting up to temp and running pretty warm for emissions and consumption reasons . I would not be panicking in a hard worked engine if the water temp got to 100C provided the system pressure was high enough to stop the coolant actually boiling . Its not the highish coolant temperature that damages engines its the water coolant boiling and turning into a gas (water vapour) and the gas pockets allowing very high localised temps in heads and blocks - to the point of warping/cracking/gasket sealing failure . Nismo and probably Ralliart sell higher pressure rated radiator caps to raise the cooling systems pressure which raises the cooling waters boiling point . Remember , free standing water at sea level meaning 1 bar or one atmosphere boils at 100C and the higher you go the lower the air pressure is and the lower the water boiling point becomes . If you could raise the atmospheric pressure waters boiling point would rise and this is why cooling systems run at higher than atmospheric pressure . Oil coolers . It is convenient to run a water/oil heat exchanger because the only extra plumbing is coolant to/from the heat exchanger . It has the slight plus that at cold start the water heats up faster than the oil does and because of the heat exchanger the water speeds up the oil warm up process . Its a good system but the down side is that a hard worked eigine , particularly a turbocharged one , dumps a LOT of heat into its lubricating oil and some of this is taken out at that oil/water heat exchanger . Its not generally a problem at standard power/heat outputs IF everything is working as when new . Manufacturers generally don't build tons of extra cooling capacity into road cars though homologation specials in the days of production based race cars often got lots of extras for homologation purposes . Now I don't know what up spec GTRs got but I think whatever that was should be considered a STARTING point if your going to work these cars hard . Dual purpose . If it were me Id be looking at a higher capacity all aluminium radiator for starters and leaving a correctly functioning std OE water thermostat alone . I'd also make sure EVERY rubber hose that see's coolant was new or as good as and consider a higher pressure rated cap . The radiator is important because if those composite tanks , and 99% of the time is the hotter inlet side , fails and dumps your coolant its bad news for the engine . The greater heat rejecting radiator if correctly designed and fitted with dump more heat than a std one if the coolant themostat increases the flow enough to pass water through it . Remember a water thermostat is a minimalist device meaning it sets the MINIMUM temp not the maximum , if it decides the temp is geting higher than it likes it opens further till it can't open any more and then its up to the system to sink or swim . It cannot control maximums . Rambling aside the working higher capacity radiator allows the water thermostat to regulate minimum coolant temp until the water and oils heat output gets beyond what the higher capacity radiator can deal with . Oil coolers . EVERY turbo engine can use an oil cooler of some sort but the oil/water ones only really do the job as long as the water cooling system can cope with the engines heat output . If there is somewhere you can fit an independent or air to air oil cooler in the place of the oil/water one then suddenly you have a sometimes significant heat input removed from the water cooling system . If you splash out a little and get a thermostatically controlled oil cooler adapter system you don't get the cool oil drag through the engine of a car thats being driven sedately , and it warms up a bit faster . Its common for these to have thermostats set at around 100C which is logical because no one would want to run oil that couldn't cope at 100-110 degrees centigrade . Again the oil thermostat is a minimalist device and the control valve is a shuttle type so its not a valve that can close and stop oil supply , if it failed it just won't regulate the oils temperature . The other thing is that ambient air will always , normally , be cooler than engine water so the heat transfer process will be better provided it has good airflow through it . Oil . I reckon if you really like your engine you'll try to run it on a good synthetic oil and preferably a real or group 4 one rather than hydro cracked mineral oil . The good ones are not terribly viscous at cold temperatures so you don't get the oil drag when cold and pump more freely at stat up . They can also withstand slightly higher temperatures before their film breaks down so give a bit more latitude/safety margin for your engine . Summing up . Water pump for the intended speed range of the engine ie the cars use and its gearing . Higher capacity radiator for increased heat rejection ability . Std OE thermostat . Healthy oil radiator/cooler with a thermostat so it doesn't overcool . The result should be cooling water running somewhere in the 76-90C range and oil probably in the 90-115 deg range which is completely normal . All thats really changed is the radiators and oil coolers heat rejection capacity and the control mechanisms , thermostats , keep the fluid temps in their correct operating ranges . With water pumps and engine water jackets there is an optimum pump speed that works best but sadly engine driven water pumps have to work over a wide speed range . Water flowing too slowly doesn't absorb and transport the heat away terribly well and if its too fast it isn't there long enough to absorb enough heat . Ideally a pump run at a constant speed would be good for the pumps efficiency but I don't like the idea of using an electric pump and attempting to control the coolant temp with water flow and no water thermostat . And lastly I think its true to say that possibly up until the last 5-10 years if not longer manufacturers were striving to make performance engines work well and reliably , nowdays the affordability and green aspects are taking us down a different road of using no juice/making no exhaust/noise/having no longevity/much reduced fun factor . The engines run hotter and have longer service intervals and their safety/longevity relies on everything working absolutely 100% . When they don't they die very quickly and expensively and become throw aways . My 2c , A .

GT2540s are rubbish along with GT2510s . They are examples of the earliest HKS spec Garrett ball bearing turbos that didn't have "Power with Response" . They have thankfully been discontined and replaced by later things like the four and twin six cylinder versions of the GTSS and the GTRS turbos . In this day and age you'd call a GT2540 a GT2876R because it uses a GT28 NS111 turbine and a non GT era T04E 76mm 46T compressor wheel . These would be laggy for a GT28 based turbo even on an RB25 I think . Two ways to look at it - either too much compressor for the turbine or not enough turbine for the compressor . A GT2510 is literally a GT2530 with a short changed turbine . A .

I had a reason to be on Tech Edges site recently and saw mention of a later type of Bosch 02 probe called LSU 4.9 . TE apparently sells them and I think the part number is 0 258 017 025 . I think its clam to fame is that it runs a higher internal temperature and heats itself up faster than earlier LSU 4 and LSU 4.2 types . Obviously car manufacturers want probes that light up instantly and run hot enough to burn off any garbage that may flow over them . Its also interesting that TE claim that Bosch discount their modern sensors more than older tech types to try and get users to update where possible . So , anyone using them yet ? Cheers A .

In Sydney at Kogarah there is a place that specialises in 2nd hand laptops and has quite a fell Dell Latitudes . I have two , this ones an old D610 with a Pentium M processor and my other ones a Latitude D630 . It has from memory a Core 2 Duo and is considerably faster/more modern hardware . Not expensive for what it is . Both are set up to dual boot Win XP or Win 7 Ultimate and work really well . Both have REAL serial ports which is the hardest thing to get in Laptops these days . I do agree that Panasonic Tough Books are great things but tend to be expensive if not being used for other hard use reasons . Built to milspecs so like an Owen gun and can throw in the mud and stil get facebook . A .

I thought the VVT RB25 heads had larger inlet ports and inlet manifold runners than the R32 era RB25DE ones . I'm not certain but I think the R34GTt inlet manifolds take later injector styles which get gets around the expensive side feeds though I think the S15 ones would cope . The DET short would have got you oil squirters and 9:1 CR pistons . I have not heard of RB25s splitting oil pumps so not sure if the collar is necessary . I can understand you wanting your engine to look like an RB20 but the number won't so if it has to change why not go for everything Nissan had to offer ? Anyway I'd drill and tap the block for the piston oil squirters and use the R33 turbo oil pump and the std water pump , Imo water pumps are about the engines speed range more than anything . Its really a case of recreating what Nissan did when they turbocharged the RB25 , sadly the updates may cost more than the difference in price of NA vs turbo bottom end . Because RB25DE heads are sought after for easy RB30 conversions you could always sell it or the motor complete and just buy a used but not beyond help RB25DET without turbo . It may cost a little more initially but if most of it is reused then you can come out ahead in the long run . People invariably find out in the end that factory engineering is the cheapest option if id does what you want . Your call , cheers A .

I haven't read about any back to back tests but you would expect the GTX version to be a bit later because it has a higher capacity compressor wheel - in the same comp housing as the GT3037 type GT3076R . Since you said GT3076 which type of GT3076 do you have now and what are its ID tag numbers . A .

Well if the bottom end is/could be questionable I'd think spending money on its top end is too . You get so much more bog std from an RB25 that if it can be done legally in your state it'd be my no 1 move . A good std one tuned properly , std engine + manifolds that is , should eat a 20 in a road car mainly because into the larger bore they had bigger ports and valves . Other than this a good runner RB20 would be the best bang for buck I think . A .

There has been at least one other such a project here in Oz but I believe that was with an Evo 9 and the ViPec V88 version of those Link Computers . Its actually an exciting time in this area because many would like to have the opportunity to remove the fuel blend hassles and have the hardward handle it all like OE flex fueled cars do . I hope this is something all the aftermarket management mobs will cater for and that some data gets published on how the compensations are made for the varying ethanol content . When I spoke to Scott at Insight about this he said its not a linea thing where you can start with E85 and do an E0 tune and expect to have linea compensations . I didn't like to ask if you have to say tune for every 10% increase in ethanol content and get the computer to extrapolate from there as its not my intellectual propety - read development dollar - to know . I have to give 10 points to people taking on these projects because its something that will benefit many/most eventually so its a win for all . For my part thanks , cheers A .

I am back home but my notes are in a cupboard next to she who kills if woken up . I can't remember if there was a cropped turbine variant with the seven bladed compressor but my notes will tell me . To those pics , the seven bladed wheel yes , I think Hitachi turbine housing , comp cover not sure but could be a sd boss T04E one . For coolant lines I source SR20 banjo bolts and steel lines from wreckers , cheap and look factory . A .

Away in Coota ATM but I'll see what I can find . That part number should start with 700177-etc . I know for sure that the cartridges used in the HKS spec GT3037's are 700177-5 or -6 or -7 . The important thing with those - numbers is the last two digits or one if its a single number . Sometimes they are printed as -0007 or -5007 but usually on the cartridges ID tag its -x or -xx . The -5 -6 -7 variations basically tell you which trim size its GT37 compressor has ie -5 was 48 trim , -6 is 52 trim and -7 is 56 trim . I say was with the -5 because I think it was discontinued . Two things to look for before even looking at ID tags . Count the compressor blades and you should find either 6 or 7 full height blades . 6 means a GT series BCI-18C compressor and 7 means an earlier series wheel . Secondly look at the compressor housing . If it says 0.60 A/R and is port shrouded then it almost always means its a GT3037 variant . If it has the larger comp housing like GT3582Rs do and has 0.70 A/R on it then its generally a 76mm 7 bladed variant or a GT3082R with the same 82mm GT40 compressor like GT3582Rs do . I think the inducer diameter on a 76ish mm compressor wheel in 56 trim is about 57mm . The 82mm GT40 wheel in 56 trim is more like 61mm . Anyway check out that thread I bashed out some years back that starts with a long list of GT30 turbine based Garrett BB turbos , From memory its all there . A .

I belive HKS sell a version of the GT2835 called KAI which is like the GT Pro S version but using the T3 flanged GT 28 0.64 AR turbine housing off the T3 flanged 2530 and GTRS . Surprisingly it is said to perform very similarly to the 2835 GT Pro S with the 0.68 AR turbine housing option . The GT28 turbine housing removes all the hassles of the GT Pro turbine housings unique dump pipe flange and obviously takes all std and aftermarket dump pipes . It could be entirely possible to pinch the turbine housing of a used T3 flanged 2530/2535/2540/GTRS and machine to suit the cropped GT30 turbine . What you wouldn't get is the port shrouded compressor housing HKS uses on these turbos and it must be woth having because they wouldn't have gone to the trouble of supplying it for no reason . Ask Woolverine here because he's used a GCG Hi Flow/GTRS/GT2835 Pro S and knows a bit about this GT2835 KAI as well . A .

Yes but thats the capacity equal to having a GT3071R on an RB30 .

There is quite a range of HKS spec turbos called GT2835 but the chief thing to remembe is that they are based on a GT30 turbine so the 28 part is marketing slight for what is actually a GT3071R turbo , just ones with cropped turbines . Long story short they came with GT28 or GT30 based turbine housings and either could have T25 or T3 flanges . The ones you have would be the low mount GT28 0.64 A/R RB26 based turbine housing version bored out to suit the cropped GT30 turbine . These are from memory the largest low mount IW HKS spec Garrett ball bearing turbos used as parallel twins on RB26 heads . I would not expect these turbos to be what you'd call responsive given that they are 250+ Kw capable units on their own . I believe they use the same turbine housing castings as RB26 style GT2530's and many people don't even consider 2530s to be responsive turbos on std capacity RB26's . The bottom line is that you cannot have it both ways with turbochargers and when you have an engine car combination that needs turbo boost to make healthy torque getting some boost in early makes all the difference . An RB26 is a short stroke short rod medium bore low compression ratio inline six . It is designed to rev and equipt to make good power for the capacity but not at low or what most consider "normal" engine revs . We know its entirely possible to make a lot more power than Nissan did standard with these engins but increasing the state of tune with larger turbochargers almost always pushes the onset of boost higher up the engines rev range . The higher up it is the less accessible it becomes when trying to drive these cars "normally" . I personally wouldn't have anything larger than 2530s on on a GTR even a dual purepose street/club car . For pure street it would be GTSSs and enjoy the fact that you can have a GTR with good road squirt but without revving the piss bags out of it all the time . In my book you 2835s are drag race turbos and for a pure quarter mile car not a bad starting point . I think they are impractical for much else but thats just my conservative view . A .

I haven't read the whole thread so far but I will later . With Mitsubishi , or MHI if you like , they call basic turbo sizes by turbine families just like Garrett does . Instead of being GT28/GT30/GT35/GT37/GT40 etc MHIs will be TD04/TD05/TD06/TD07 etc . From what I read a MHI T67 is a hybrid of a TD06 turbine with one of the compressors normally intended for a TD07 turbine based turbo . The TD06SL2 turbine is some sort of ground/altered turbine I believe originally made for Trust to get a bit more flow than the TD05H turbine can give . Its basically made to fit in between the largest TD05 and smallest TD06 turbines - Hi Flow turbine for TD05 turbos like the OE Evo 4G63T ones . They are probably not a bad thing on RB20's but I think something in the TD06 family would be better on an RB25 or larger engine . I think I posted diagrams of the TD06SL2 and a few of the other TD06 turbines in the last MHI turbo thread here . A .

If its a "real" GT3076R 52T it may convince a few people thats its a better thing than the 56T version . CHRA no should read 700177-6 , unit number 700382-10 . A .

Yep , I reckon a lot with the turbo was a reasonable sized turbine and significantly the 10.5cm twin scroll turbine housing . Later (Evo era) 4G63Ts seem to thrive on 17+ pounds of boost and people are always amazed to find that raising the static CR to 9-9.5 doesn't greatly affect this . What that does if give these engines more torque off boost and the ability to run warm cams without really losing anything down low . As I mentioned there is a larger 10.8cm direct bolt on turbine housing available here and at the American Evolutionm site they're talking about an 11.5 one available . The Evo 10s one is larger again . I'd like to try an Evo 9 turbo with the titanium aluminide turbine and the 10.8cm turbine housing because what you gain with the 33% lighter turbine you lose with the larger housing , in other words no loss in a higher flowing twin scroll turbine housing . Actually Forced Performance in the states has cast up a port shrouded bolt on compressor housing so that would help with high boost surge . If anything the HKS bolt on ball bearing turbo appears to be the cracker , its sort of like a reverse rotation twin scroll medium trim GT3076R and the word on the street is that 350 ftlbs and 350 Hp at the treads is a cake walk . They call ia a "GT II 7460R" for 74mm compressor and 60mm turbine . Yes the steering , its bliss though full lock could be better .