discopotato03

The pumps everyone tends to ignore are actually roller cell EFI ones which are good at moving high volumes when not pushing against a FPR . Traditional EFI systems usually have an ~ 2.5 bar pressure head above inlet manifold pressure . It may pay to look into the more current single line or return less fuel systems because I reckon this is how the manufacturers may be getting around the fuel rail heating issues . A lifetime mechanic friend of mine tells me that they are not really return less but they return direct to the fuel tank close to the internal type pump . I've often wondered how we'd go if we had the pressure regs return Teed of the supply line so the return was not connected directly to the fuel rail . If not hot fuel is returning then in theory that in the pot/tank does not heat up avoiding tank pressurisation dramas . Also I believe these later systems run higher fuel pressure and I suppose the advantages could be better atomisation and a slightly raised fuel boiling point . Don't quote me but something like 50+ psig pressure comes to mind . A .

Actually you need to check the compressor housing size and A/R ratio . I think the GTR style GT2860R turbos can have either a T3 or T04B sized compressor housing depending on which compressor wheel it has . I'm not 100% sure without looking but I think the ones that are 0.60 A/R are T04B sized internally where the 0.4x A/R ones are T3 sized internally . If you could get the comp housings off the diameter of its backing plate at the diffuser section (the step outwards from the comp wheels exducer tips) would give it away . Also I seem to remember OE GTR turbos having a turbine housing A/R size smaller than some of the RB26 style GT2860R turbos , I think OE and some of the more responsive 2860R's had 0.48 A/R T housings and the higher performance ones 0.64 A/R T housings . Most would know that GTR turbos use a more compact turbine housing outline that single turbo versions and the comp covers have the two bolt in and out flanges plus the two eyes at the bottom to mount the fluid junction gadgets . Cheers A .

For me the trade off is actual cylinder pressures vs power/torque output . The better you can make an engine inhale and exhale the lesser the boost pressure it generally needs to make a power target . If you want a broad spread of power there has to be enough cylinder trapping ability to make torque at low revs but not choke things up at higher revs . The old rule of thumb was that the hotter the cam profiles are the higher the static compression ratio can be . In NA land the only two things you can do to an engine to increase its output over the same rev range is to increase its capacity or its compression ratio . What higher CRs do to a turbo engine off boost is increase the compression pressure and in theory the combustion's cylinder pressure which equates to more torque . It also tries to minimise what you lose low down with longer period cams at low revs . My thoughts on hotted up RB25 road engines . I'd personally go for the upper or 9.3 CR pistons because you don't go everywhere on full boost , I'd look at good mild cams even if it means changing springs so they don't coil bind . A critical thing is TO MAKE SURE whoever builds you engine DOES NOT remove the heads quench zones and that the flat outer areas of the piston crowns are as close to the heads deck face as is safely possible . This is the way to minimise the end gasses volume in the fight against detonation . I'd also insist on having some sort of ceramic thermal barrier coating applied to the piston crowns to insulate them from combustion heat and give an extra level of detonation protection . If the funds are there I'd also ceramic coat the chamber sides of the exhaust and if possible the inlet valves . The main enemies of turbo engines are heat and detonation and heat drives detonation to a degree . Pistons conduct their heat to the cylinder walls via their rings and valves to the guides and head via their stems . The less heat you lose the more is available to burn the fuel air charge and push the pistons down . I also tend to think 350 Kw is a bit high and while certainly achievable the state of tune of the engine would be a bit high as in lack the every day round town poke . Its also debatable that you can get that sort of power to the ground in a RWD car and wheel spin never got anyone anywhere except broke and harassed . Call we a wuzz but 260-280 well tuned usable Kw I think is more fun in a RWD Skyline . If your engines bottom end is in good nick I run it as it is , the right head mods cams and turbo should be able to make more than enough power on the street . Your call , cheers A .

Yes I also think the GTX3071R will be the one to watch . A .

The other option is to sell it and buy an R32 GTR , at least then (provided its sort of original) its all designed to work as a package . I think diff ratios are taller in a GTR and they are not that easy to change - front anyway . I kind of think a lot of money could be spent here and its never going to have the sort of resale vale a GTR would . The cost effective approach if your car doesn't do what you want it to is to replace it with something std thats a lot closer to your liking in std form . Then mild mods if its not enough . Sadly its almost impossible to beat factory engineering and economies of scale on price . They can build it a LOT cheaper than you can so its a case of finding something thats affordable and no too old or used up . A .

ATP . http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release111110.html Note the compressor housing A/R's , 71R 0.60/76R 0.70/82R Port Shrouded 0.70 A/R . Without seeing pics my guess is 71R T04E 0.60 A/R , 76R T04S 0.70 A/R Port shrouded , 82R T04S 0.70 A/R Port Shrouded . Garrett do make a 0.70 A/R T04E housing but its a weirdly shaped casting . AFAIK the GT40 series comp housings have not been used on Garrett's smaller frame BB turbos . A .

The GT35R's compressor housing is a bit larger and slightly bulkier than the GT30R's . I guess it depends on how much you current turbos comp housing misses everything .

As in FP Black ? A .

Well GT2530s have always had 0.64 A/R GT28 based turbine housings and I pretty sure a variation of a T04B sized compressor housing , the way to tell is to see of the comp housing has and adapter ring between the bearing housing and the comp housing . If the comp housing is held in by the circlip directly on the back of the comp housing its smaller . For OE RB26 sized housings possibly 34GTR GT2556R's or 707160-9/GTSS turbos should be more responsive . I'd have thought a single turbo conversion on a 1JZ would be simpler , much simpler that the sequential turbos I thought those engines had . Maybe look at the new BW range for something suitable . I can't see any advantage of parallel twins on an inline four , You'd need to have one feed off cylinders 1-4 and the other off 2-3 so one would be on top of the other in a plumbing nightmare . I reckon you could do better with a custom manifold and an Evo X specific TS TIW GT3076R .

Yes they are supposed to be a mild upgrade . The major difference between an OE Nissan spec GT2560R and the SR20 spec GTSS is the turbine wheel , the one in the OE turbo is a 53mm 62T TB25 turbine where the GTSS uses a GT28 53.8mm 76T NS111 turbine . Less and more open blades and a slightly larger OD + 76 vs 62 trim . At a guess the GTSS should be able to hold a few more degrees of timing but really the design of the engine and its externals have a big say in detonation thresholds - and of course the computers abilities and mapping . I think for the OP if your GT2530 does everything you like then stay with it . Really in the GT2860R family all thats unique in a "GT2530's" cartridge is the compressor wheel , 63T T3 from memory . Because the exclusive rights HKS has on Garrett cartridges would be long gone you may be able to order a cartridge through Garrett Japan if all else fails . I think its cartridge number is 446179-21 and will try to confirm tomorrow arvo . The closest Garrett equivalent as I said is a GT2860RS and regardless of what anyone tells you the one time Garrett production engineer who spec-ed the thing intended it to have the 0.86 A/R turbine housing not the 0.64 A/R one . SR people often question this but its what JC built for his Mazda Miata/MX5's BP 1800 club car . As I said I had one on a late for them FJ20ET which has about the same CR as an SR20 but larger bore shorter stroke and longer rods . From memory the ports and valves are larger on FJ's and the OE cams reasonably warm 256 deg ones . My 2860RS had the larger turbine housing and I didn't find it laggy especially with the timing set to pull up the bottom end and climb into boost . These turbos like a 2530 are responsive and make good torque but roll over up high , I just changed up when it stopped pulling hard and had no problem going faster than is healthy these days . It suited the FJ gearboxes ratios really well . Anyway your choices are (in the Garret/HKS range) staying with what you have , trying the 0.86 turbine housing , maybe a small or medium comp trim GT2871R . A .

A lot of that is going to depend upon externals such as a good exhaust and filter/element . The other critical thing is how well its tuned to suit its mods . For example years ago when I changed out a std RB20 turbo for a GT2860RS , and a built T25/FJ manifold , the untuned difference wasn't what I thought it'd be . Once I wound some timing into the thing it made a hell of a difference because the restrictive turbo made the engine ping unless the timing was pulled out . Specifically to the turbos no the SR20 spec GTSS uses a smaller trim (60 vs 63) compressor so I would expect it to spin up a little earlier than a GT2530 . Just note that a "GT2530" is really a GT2860R and the "25" comes from the fact that HKS was first out of the blocks with the GT25 ball bearing center section twenty odd years ago . Also HKS appears to use the same T25 flanged GT28 0.64 A/R turbine housing on all SR/CA spec GT2510 GTSS GT2530 GT2540 GTRS turbos . It is their own housing and not supplied by Garrett . It is also different to the ones HKS supplies on RB26 spec GT2510 GTSS GT2530 GT2540 and if they do GTRSs they'd no doubt use this same one . Often with HKS spec Garrett turbos the difference is a unique engine specific turbine housing and if required a port shrouded compressor housing though they are usually found on six cylinder specific single turbochargers . Often they had Garrett supply a specific wheel trim or turbine/compressor combination to make their units a better match for a specific engine mostly for response reasons . For Mr Woolaf yes the turbo Garrett call GT2876R is a super dog , its this same turbine with a 76mm OD 7/7 bladed I think 48T T04S compressor wheel . HKS had an only slightly better thing in their GT2540 with again the same turbine but with a slightly better 48T T04E compressor wheel . The GT2540R was superseded by the much better GT2871R 52T or as HKS calls it GTRS . It took time for them to realise that too much compressor for a given turbine results in lots of initial lag and when it does get up to speed the marginal turbine and housing choke the top end performance . So the GT2540 became the GTRS and the GT2510 the GTSS , a bit less comp for the RS and more turbine and less comp for the SS . I dare say HKS worked out that "power and response" meant making boost early to supercharge the engine before it runs out of port and valve area . By not choking the hot side the engines don't tend too fall over too much up high but still rev enough to make boastable Kw numbers . For me personally torque is everything and if you can make it early you get more shove more often because its accessible in every day driving . To make a big Kw number you need the engine rpm multiplication factor to generate the big number . A .

HKS do a turbo called GTSS but its not the same one used for GTR twins , different wheels and housings both sides . Its cartridge number from memory is 446179-53 , it uses the same turbine as your GT2530 combined with the compressor and housing found on OE SR20 GT28 turbos . 60.1mm 60T on the cold side . A .

If anything SR20's are easy if you want a range of mild turbo upgrades based on the std T25/T28 mounting flange and GT28 turbines . The GT25/GT28 family works with one of three turbines and the highest performance one is the way to go . Your 2530 has it as does the GT2860RS and the three GT2871R's . Also that GT2860RS is virtually the same as a 2530 but is compressor wheel is a slightly more modern design . If you were to follow the GT28 family (having that good turbine) what effectively changes is the compressor wheels - they go up in diameter then trim size so the pumping capacity goes up in steps . Now the problem with GT2871R's is that in the past everyone bought the largest compressor trim option and real world its a bit of a dog . The compressor options are 48/52/56 trims and I'd avoid the 56T one like the plague . Note HKS only used the 52T version in their GTRS turbos . Off the top of my head the GT2860RS's pumping capacity is ~ 36 pounds of air by mass and the 48 trim GT2871R is ~ 39 pounds . The 52T I'd have to look up (search turbobygarrett site) and the 56T is a know problem - don't go there . I don't have time to discuss turbine housing size right now but will get back in the "early hours" of tomorrow morning - joys of shift work . Have a think about what sort of rev range you want this engine to work over power spread wise and know where its most usefull to have the torque from boost . I had a GT2860RS on an FJ20ET in an old Series 1 TRX Bluebird and it was a great setup for me . More later , cheers A .

My vote goes to a mild street RB30 , IMO GTR's really need 3L and a Stag is heavier again . The old adage was that cubic inches make the easiest horses (ft/lbs actually) . Turbo type FI doesn't do much for you at very low revs but having a bigger air pump (engine) sure does . I think eventually everyone gets pissed off with peaky engines that have to be revved to make decent grunt . I also think if you put together an RB30 with slightly better rods and pistons you can have a torquey responsive engine that doesn't owe you anything like 40 grand . I'd be following the progress with these new BW turbos because there is the potential to track down a HKS single cast low mount exhaust manifold and mount a T4 flanged IW turbo on that . If it was done properly it wouldn't look too lethal to the authorities nor out of place in a Stag engine bay . Even a GT3582R on a SS T3 flanged manifold wouldn't be too foul , if you option it with the Garrett port shrouded compressor housing it wouldn't give anything away to a generic T04Z until the top end . My guess is that with 3L you wouldn't have to rev it much to make it go and its still questionable if the gearbox can stand up to that . Your call but power beyond reliability doesn't make a whole lot of sense . My plan with a Stag (assumes healthy budget) would be to make it really punchy and torquey from not a lot of revs because thats what feels great on the street and wins if you like at sub Taser speed limits . A .

This is what I should have been inquiring about last week not the BATAMBLE one . I found CES's site but no mention of Skyline front pipes . I'll have a look in the group buy section and if thats no good then a good pre loved one would be fine if anyone's selling one . Cheers A .

Garrett will have the GTX-R versions of the GT3071R/GT3076R/GT3582R available soon . Supposed to be showing them at Sema , cheers A .

You probably lose much of any advantage they have by staying single scroll in that power range , the T3 footprint is getting on its last legs not too far into that zone as well . I reckon this is probably why Garrett didn't go beyond the GT3582R 1.06 A/R turbo variation . In Diesel form GT35 turbine housings are huge TS T4 International flanged things in from memory 1.05 and 1.17 A/R's . Yes the EFR turbos have been in development for a while and they're trying to do all the smart things to make high power capable engine/turbo systems work better overall . The low friction bearing system/low mass turbines/well thought out turbine housings/port shrouded compressor housings with integral throttle closed recirc systems . I haven't looked to see if any of their IW turbine housings are proper twin scroll twin wastegate path/valve ones like Mitsubishi and IHI use at times on TS Evos and Zoobs . These would not be cheap or easy to develop but I have a feeling that they would take the market by storm and clean up because they work so well and are easy to apply once a decision is made on flange pattern . A .

Just rehashing an old one while searching . The GTRS's turbine is actually closer to 54 than 53mm and a completely different turbine family . Yes the compressor wheels are both 71.1mm GT ones but the RS's is a 52 trim where the 2835's is a 56 trim one . From what I can tell , so far , the GTRs's compressor housing is based on a T04B footprint (backplate diameter) and it is 0.60 A/R . The GT2835 Pro S's comp housing is supposed to be based on the larger TO4E family and is in 0.50 A/R . I think the story is that HKS started out with the T3 flanged version of the GT2530 which uses the same hot side as the T3 flanged GT2535 , not sure if there was a T3 flanged GT2540 . They obviously wanted something with a more modern compressor wheel than a 2535 or 2540 so they opted for the 71.1mm 52T GT compressor and manufactured a port shrouded compressor housing specifically to suit it . It would be very interesting to back to back a GTRS and a GT2835 Pro S 0.68 A/R on a mild RB25DET . There's obviously a bit more work in the Pro S as far as its inlet and filter goes and I'm not sure if you can use a std R33 or R34 GTS/GTt airbox with these turbos . I guess it depends where you want you car to boost its performance engine speed wise and how much you want to spend doing it . The 2835 pro hands down should make more power with its larger GT30 based turbine and turbine housing though sometimes the power figures I've read suggests their outputs are not miles apart . So many engine spec variations and some people push their engines and turbos harder than others . A .

At least I'm hearing what I expected about the GTRS , my one is not brand spankers but I know its previous owner would have treated it well anyway . Its the full kit except the dump pipe was fab'd to suit a "Skyline Wagon" ... The impression everyone gave me was that the GCG Hi Flow was good but never felf really sharp and thats almost certainly because Hi Flows don't have housings designed to match the foreign wheels so compromises creep in . New for new a GCG Hi Flow will always be cheaper than a GTRS kit so bang for buck comes into it . I recon if they were cost neutral there would be more GTRS's around . When I pick it up I'm going to compare the RS's turbine housing to a cleaned up (bead blasted) perfect std OP6 turbine housing I have here . I've never had a HKS T3 flanged GT28 turbine housing to compare anything with but I'm sort of hoping that the Hitachi one is a little larger because it could be a real interesting addition to a GTRS if it is . I do have my T25 flanged GT2860RS in the cave and its 0.86 A/R GT28 housing would be interesting to compare to the HKS 0.64 one and the HitachI OP6 one . I always though HKS were limp for not making a T3 flanged 0.86 housing though thinking about it the only application would have been RB25's . T3 flanged 2530/2535/GTRS were clearly intended to suit RB20 and 25 and a larger housing I think would have been a bit lazy on RB20's . My goals have changed in the past couple of years and I'm now more interested in the sort of power that's practical and usable in a road car , the different states "revenue protection squad" backed up in NSW by their way too powerful running dogs (RTA) have made driving the least bit spiritedly a licence burning experience . The sad fact is that trying to use 270+ at the treads is getting hard with a RWD Skyline when even the std CPU fan turbo can smoke 1st gear in the dry . I did have high ideas earlier about larger turbos and RB30's but now I want something that's small enough and responsive enough to be smooth and torquey with std manifolds . I really need something that can pull a bit from part throttle and an easy 240-250 will be plenty for me . I really don't care if it falls over at 5500-6000 because your licence is gone in 3rd 4th 5th anyway . With my style of driving 1st doesn't go to far , 2nd is where its and at and the other three are a short shift up to legal cruising speeds . I might drop a cog to overtake or accelerate uphill at times and the power/torque/boost needs to be there from say 2500 revs . Sorry people but AWD has changed the way I think about getting power to the ground , having engines with linear almost OE like power delivery is the way to go . My Subaru is more old world than old school but seeing the transformation from FrWD to AWD was a real interesting learning curve . My Evo 6 is mechanically factory and its really punchy in the lower gears , no tramp slip screech jut gone . The RWD really needs to have fine precise throttle response and I think this GTRS will do it for my tastes . Yes the intertoaster , I had thought that it would be lacking and again I'll have to find some bang for buck solution that can fit in without cutting anything . A while back I read a long post here about JJs return flow IC kit and it sounds fair if something good enough and stealthy is needed . Do we reckon it would be reasonable for a 250 Kw GTS25T ? Lastly the old Suber Dak Dak is not going to be re-registered (sold or parted out) so the Nissan will become the daily driver and no doubt get more attention paid to it . A . Question , is a 96 build GTS25T with a genuine 91K a rare beast nowdays ?

Sigh , I wanna batmobile pipe .

I'm going the GTRS kit route and may as well do the front pipe because ATM the turbo and back to the hi flow cat is factory . By the way do these combined dump/front pipes support the turbo because I'm not keen to have the exhaust manifold crack and most Nissan cast dumps have some sort of bracing . No one want to sell an R33 BATMBL split dump/front pipe ? Cheers A .

Got it , I had assumed the multiple throttles were being used . A .

Would I be right in thinking that an R33 and R34 one would be different ? Cheers A .

Found him . http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gb...li-t178071.html A .

I searched and I searched but cannot find mention of the one piece split dump and front pipe BATMBL used to advertise in the group buy section . Are these still available or does anyone have one to sell for an S2 R33 GTS25T manual car ? Cheers , Adrian .