discopotato03

Dirt what is happening these days with competition laws and fuels , I wouldn't have thought that any monopolising , nearly said "monetising" , 'd stand up in a Court of Law . If CAMS can't beat Anti Competition Laws I wouldn't have thought VP could . Just curious , cheers A . What is the V8 control fuel again ?

From memory Nissan used the same style of transistor to switch the single coil on RB30E's and a few other engines . Finding a workable coil shouldn't be too difficult . I personally think the way to go with four coils is to use the LS1 or LS2 Bosch ones , they have internal ignitors so most aftermarket computers with four ignition outputs should be able to run them no probs . The LS2 are higher output than LS1 , which are good anyway , I imagine the 2's were for later 6L Chevys doing the lean burn thing . Scott at Insight has had some years around FJ20s so he could be worth a call . Cheers , A .

I actually like the way Nissan did the RB26's with the water return into the engines top water outlet . This ensures that any coolant boiling in the turbo/s water jackets after shut down returns steam bubbles to the radiator and preferably the overflow bottle . The RB25 looks like it returns water/steam etc via plumbing around the back of the head and into the inlet manifolds water log - then through the water outlet to the radiator . If you did it RB26 style on an RB25 it would mean tapping into the inlet manifolds cast in water outlet - which is removable on an RB26 . It also means running a water line around the front of the engine either behind that front plate or simply around the front of the belt cover - secured properly BTW . I stay away from bling alloy fittings because they are expensive and not available everywhere . I use the simplest brass barbed fittings I can find with usually fuel hose , EFI hose is very hardy , and clamp it on with Wormald screw clamps . It doesn't look racer like but fittings/hose/clamps easy and cheap to get at short notice . Also Import Wreckers will sometimes sell you good second hand OE turbo water lines and and banjo bolts which is a godsend for connecting to the turbo itself . They usually have banjo fittings and enough length of hard line to get you far enough away from the turbos heat to clamp a hose and not have it fry . From memory Garrett small frame , up to GT3582R and T04Z , BB turbos use 14mm banjo bolts and these are common to some Nissans . The RB's standard turbo uses large banjos and bolts and not sure but these may have been the same as the water cooled T3's like say a VL Turbo has std . A lot of those "Hi Flowed" T3/T4 "hybrids" use that water cooled bearing housing and these banjo fittings . Again not sure but 18mm thread springs to mind for some reason . Check anyway . I reckon you'd probably source a block water fitting the same way . Naturally make sure these bits are not rusted out and likely to fail . Also check that block water fitting because some Nissans used smaller ones - possibly 12mm , don't know what RB25's have . I'd have to look at an RB engine , isn't the water supply for the turbo towards the rear of the block low down ? From memory there is a banjo fitting and steel hard line to the turbo itself . My theory has always been find water from as low on the block as you can get , drain bung hole etc , Water would be coolest here . Return water as high as you can get on the engine which is usually its top water outlet . Always try to run water lines uphill to the turbo and again to the cooling systems high point . This way the coolant will thermosyphon at shut down and any steam bubbles return to the radiator - not the cylinder heads water jacket . Cheers A .

Its all finished now but not actually reversible . With the Z32 sensor bolted in place my mate attacked the std AFM plug basically to pull its innards out so the std terminals could be removed intact . He reasoning was to have the maximum length of wire to crimp new terminals onto . Now because he's no stranger to automotive electricals he had the connector out and covers off the std AFM before I could say there's nothing wrong with that thing . It was interesting to see how the sensor side connector appears to be removable internally , most I'd seen previously were hard wired/soldered in . My S2 RB25 meter looks like the internal connections are a sort of spring loaded affair . Steve wanted to look into this earth/signal earth business and you can see where the meter can have separate ones though for the series 2 they for whatever reason fitted a 3 wire connector . All that aside I wrote out wiring diagrams from the DIY here so the relevant wires could be connected to the Z32 MAF . To bridge the earths Steve made a loop wire and it crimped into the middle two terminals along with the cars earth connection . Silly me got the power and signal wires around the wrong way so it ran like a dog and just kept cutting out . I had an idea what the problem was , basically looking at the wrong side of the plug in the diagram , so the outer 2 of the 4 wires wrong way around . These were changed and the Z32 MAF option entered via Datalogit and it runs reasonably well though it does need to be tuned properly . So , not reversible after all though as Steve said can you see yourself doing that anyway . I guess he's right because with the 740 injectors it wouldn't have a hope of running with the std computer now . Cheers Adrian . If I get a chance I'll take a pic of the new plug/AFM with the boot pulled away so you can see the wiring in the correct order and the loop wire .

ID don't say which EV14 their injectors are based on , could possibly be some of the Bosch Motorsport versions ? A . BTW the technology used in those Quatro Sports and RS500 Sierras is not cutting edge these days .

The turbocharger facts as I see them . Anything Garrett BB with a GT30 turbine should be called GT30xxR turbo . The cropped version of the GT30 turbine is still a GT30 turbine . HKS screwed this area up by calling their cropped GT30 turbine equipt versions as GT"28"35R . Take this to the grave , there is NOTHING GT28 about those turbos - except maybe the bored out bastardised GT28 IW turbine housings they used on CA/SR/RB26 "bolt on" "GT2835R" turbos . Garrett turbos are virtually always described by their turbine series ie GT25/28/30/35/37/40/42/45 etc etc . The cropped version of the GT3071R , this is the current systems real name for turbos with GT30 turbines and 71.1mm compressors , is not such a bad thing provided the turbine housing works with that turbine wheel . Sadly only HKS had GT30 based turbine housings made for that turbine while Garrett never did . They also bore out GT28 turbine housings to suit but the result is not terribly good - low turbine efficiency . I reckon for the money spent they could provide the designed for the full sized GT30 turbine T3 flanged Garrett GT30 IW turbine housing , its dump flange is not the same as RB20/RB25 but the housing is the correct match for the uncropped 60 odd mm turbine wheel . People really need to do their homework with turbos before they comit to them . I know people go looking for what seems to be a good overall turbo/fitting kit price but hunting for lowest price can be risky . You have to know every component required to get it in and running to have a realistic insight to pricing . The biggest stumbling blocks tend to be the turbine housing and dump pipe and if you want best results you can't compromise either . RB25 and VG30 turbine housings are not the best things to put GT30 turbines in because they are not designed to work with these wheels . Even the VG one is not big housing wise , big in the Hitachi range but not by GT30 standards . It can be done and can save some money on dump pipes but really those dumps are questionable when it comes to the sorts of exhaust gas flows a really flying GT30 turbine is capable of . Best case scenerio for an IW GT30 turbo is the Garrett housing with a custom dump pipe or the HKS GT Pro housings with a custom or HKS dump pipe . HKS do them for 60 and 56mm GT30 turbines , Garrett only for 60mm ones . Lots of reading on this board about GT30 based turbos and various Skyline models . Cheers A .

I would have thought that the Mass Flow Sensors'd take temperature/density into account ? Cheers A .

This thread I started not long ago . http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lo...=EV14+injectors I think it had the relevant links . Cheers A .

I don't know exactly know what ID do to them but from what I read they are a late model higher plessure injector intended for returnless EFI systems . The moving part inside the injector is much smaller and lighter than older types so easier to control at small and large pulse widths . ID are supposed to got to a lot of trouble to match sets to ensure uniformity . Google Injector Dynamic and search here under EV14 Injectors . Cheers A .

I believe it goes like this for a GT3037/GT3076R in 52 compressor trim . Turbo assembly Pt No . 700382-10 Cartridge number . 700177-5006 Comp Housing No . 436157-0022 Generally I believe Garrett supply all these GT3037/GT3076R units as a cartridge and compressor housing only . The reason being that HKS have their own unique series of turbine housings and if you want a Garrett one you option one of theirs . PLEASE get any supplier to double check these part numbers as I did when I ordered mine , I don't want to be responsible for someone ordering the wrong bits . I try to be accurate but its a fair wad of cash on the line so you have to get it right . Michael will know for sure . Hope this helps , cheers Adrian .

GCG ordered it through Garrett and it came from Japan as a special order , the cartridge then the compressor housing . It looks just like any other GT3076R except the compressors inducer is 2mm smaller . GCG fitted the GT30 IW turbine housing from local stock and I think a one bar large can actuator . They have the part numbers as they've had that cartridge (center section and wheels) before so it should be still available . Just happens to be the one HKS uses in the GT3037 52T . Same for the comp housing but without the HKS tag and bell mouthed inlet . Garrett at Chipping Norton may be able to fix you up , I go through GCG because they've been good at findings bits for me that can be hard to source and are closer to me . Michael at GCG would know what you are after , I'll try to find the part numbers . Cartridge (CHRA) is 700177-5006 . A .

Dito , everyone falls in love with those ID EV14 injectors . A .

Thanks Lithium , that was basically the answer I was looking for . Cheers A .

Just to throw my 2c in , there is another version of that GT3076R (real one) available and the only difference is that its compressor wheel is 52 trim instead of 56 trim . I had GCG dig me up one and they even tracked down the matching port shrouded compressor housing so all good . There has been a lot of discussion in the past about GT3071R's and GT3076R's and I think the feeling here has been that the real or uncropped GT3071R while good goes to a point and falls off towards the upper end of the rev range . HKS are not stupid nor are they rocket scientists but they don't tend to market things that don't get results . In their line up there is no turbo using that GT3071R cartridge and the closest ones have the cropped turbine and offer all three compressor trim sizes , not just the largest or 56 trim 71mm one like Garrett does . I'm only guessing but it's possible that the full sized 60mm 84 trim GT30 turbine doesn't drive those 71mm compressor wheels as fast as they'd like to be so HKS opted for the cropped turbine to get a bit more shaft speed . When they used these 71mm compressors in RB apps they also tended to use a port shrouded compressor housing so I'd say they were masking too much airflow innitially (smaller turbine) but making strong mid range power and acceptable top end . What HKS did do was have a 48 compressor trim version of their GT3037 (GT3076R) and their lists show it as having the same airflow capabilities as the GT2835 Pro S - meaning that 71mm compressor in 56 trim with a port shrouded compressor housing . the GT3037 48 trim used a plain or non shrouded comp housing BTW . I chased and finally bought a 52 trim GT3076R/GT3037 because I'm looking for a little more response than the usual 56T GT3076R and a bit more top end than a GT3071R . I opted for the Garrett GT30 IW housing in 0.82 A/R because I think it's the best trade off for response and power . Its still in a box because I'm sorting out the Z32 AFM and tuning in the near future . My engine has a modified head and Poncams so should do good things with this turbo I hope . Cheers A .

After what I've seen in looms recently I prefer new plugs and you can buy that one over the counter from Australian Fuel Injection (AFI) for around $25 . Its even the nice one you remove without tools like Commondoor injector plugs . Naturally comes in a kit with new terminals and seals . Whats the usual charge for the new Jap one ? Could make the other end like you said but a pair of Weather Packs I think make a pretty bullet proof - well weather proof joint . Cheers A .

Joey that may have been where the idea came from , or one of the American boards . I don't think it's doubtful that it would do something positive , just hard to say how much . Must contact SK , I think he played with various blends . A .

Well by disadvantages I ment things like the corrosive effects on aluminium , water absorption , the need for a significantly higher volume fuel system to keep up with its demands . I was just wondering what ethanol percentages can be used mainly to supress some detonation in less than full on race engines . The problem ATM seems mainly to be E85's availability so if you were using less , lower pewrcentage , what you've got would go a bit further . By a trade off in percentage I mean a usable gain for minimum pain . I guess the problem then becomes tuning for it and accurately blending the same exact ratio every time . Also there have been engines developed specifically with E85 in mind and they do show very good fuel consumption with it . They have things like high , by ULP standards high CR's , and reasonably high boost pressures as well with FI . Aside from availability my bigest issue is water absorption and until someone comes up with some sort of device that continuously seperates any water short of the injectors it will be a major problem . A .

Hi all , I see a number of E85 threads popping up these days and it makes me wonder if the disadvantages of this fuel could be reduced by running Ethanol in smaller percentages ie E20 or E25 . Does anyone know at what percentages the advantages of Ethanol start to drop off in mostly street driven cars ? I figure that lower percentages would be less corrosive to more reactive materials in the fuel system and would possibly be not so good at absorbing water . Thoughts , cheers A .

Just about time to fit a Z32 TT AFM to my S2 R33 GTS25T and wondered if this is a good idea . If I was to cut the std AFM's loom a bit back from the std connector I could splice a pair of three pin Weather Pack connectors in . Then it would be easy to make up a similar section of loom with the Bosch flat plug for the AFM on one end and another Weather Pack connector on the other to fit the one now in the cars side of the body loom . The idea being to make the system quickly and easily reversible . Weather Pack connectors look real easy to make up and I have the correct tool for crimping their non insulated terminals . The only thing is how are most people joining the earths together ? A mechanic friend of mine tells me that soldered inline splices are the worst way to do it , short of a Scotchlock , and a mechanical joint would be better . Thoughts ? Cheers Adrian .

Yeah my first RWD/then EFI/then turbocharged car . I bashed out a long post this morning but lost it to cyber space . 1) Early non intercooled DR30 Skylines had the largest plenum volume OE FJ20 inlet manifold . 2) I used an S12 Gazelle clutch master and a brake master/booster from a JDM Bluebird SSS . The trick is to separate the rear from the front half of the boosters chamber and turn it 180 deg to offset the whole assembly downwards . Then you can fit a DR30 manifold on an FJ20 in a Bluebird , must also use the OE manifold brace or the mount nuts come lose . If you must use an Oz spec booster/master pull the booster out and unbolt the aluminium mount off the boosters two rear studs . Rotate it 180 and bolt it back on . Makes them sit lower . Really better off geting an early MR30 Skyline booster and having it rebuilt with longer rear studs , std too short for a Bluebird but same pattern . JDM Nabco or Tokiko masters are MUCH better quality and larger bore ie 15/16 than the Oz birds 13/16 Girlock piece of crap . 3) DR30 Skyline front struts bolt into Bluebirds but one of the line fittings is non std onthe hardline side of our Blueys , change it and all falls in . 4) Rear four link and H190 ok for straightline use , resist temptation to use urethan bushes in the rear because the top diagonal links work in different planes to the lower parallel ones . 5) Takes lots of work to get a decent radiator and intercooler into a Bluebird , I used an R32 GTR rad and a pair of DR30 elec fans . Cooler was an early Plasmaman and the bonnet latch was converted to a 1600 Datsun type . Headlight inner mounts were loped off and new ones made . GTR rad pins sat on sockets welded onto the removable caster rod brackets in rubber bushes . Also lower mounts for the fan shroud went into those brackets . I had a steel pipe made up to transfer water across the bottom because GTR rad and FJ20's are opposites so to speak . 6) Gearboxes , the best of the 71 series boxes was the manual R32 RB20DET ones . You take the FJ type bellhousing and bore its lower bearing tunnel accurately out to suit the RB's larger lower bearing and then fit the RB's front bearing cover/clutch bearing spigot . RB 71 boxes have the wide gears and all big syncros . I know people slot the top bell housing bolt holes on RB bellhousings and flick one of the dowels but that's the bodgey way to do it . Almost 10 yrs and lots of resources went into my Bluey , it was engineered and legally registered in NSW with TRX910 plates . I couldn't get 7 for it in the end even with a DR30 IRS R200 LSD rear end/Autronic/Bilsteins etc . Parted it out and made almost 7 so far in bits . Last I saw the shell was on the back of a truck with the cranes boom through its roof . Such is life . A .

My laptop is set up to boot into Windows 7 by default or XP on start up , dual boot I believe its called . The XP I wanted purely to run Datalogit and its also an alternative if Windows 7 fell over . Cheers A .

Yes mine came through GCG as did the port shrouded compresor housing to suit the 52T compressor . CHRA or cartridge number is 700177-5006 . I opted for the 0.82 A/R Garrett GT30 IW turbine housing . It hasn't been fitted yet so can't give results . Cheers A .

I was going to buy or make the bell mouthed insert for the ported compressor housing like HKS do with their GT3037S turbos . I think the value is covering the outlets to the surge slot in an attempt to muffle the tip speed scream of the inducer tips . GCG do sell them but my turbo being a slightly smaller 52 trim probably needs to have one turned up . Their grub screws should work though . Good news on the reg , cheers A .

Yep the bore size and backspacing is usually the drama when fitting bush type compressors onto GT BB cartridges . If you were a bit concerned about boost threshold there is another cartridge in that family that spec wise looks the same as a GT2860RS but its tip height/width is a little less so it may bring the bost threshold down a little . There are some mobs around that can build up custom combinations and the generic GT28R would be a good example , all it needs is the std GT28 turbine exchanged for the high performance NS111 76T turbine and you get a 60 trim 60mm comp with the good lightweight low restriction turbine . Its basically what HKS have for the SR20 specific GTSS turbo , its a different spec to the GTR RB26 specific GTSS . I had GCG build me a hybrid turbo from the smallest BB GT2554R , swapped in that nice NS111 turbine and fitted a reprofiled S15 turbine housing because I wanted the high temp spec material and the deflector vane at the turbines outlet . I'll see if I have a pics . A .

It had a grumbly sort of idle with 50% and 0.14 . I'm not sure what difference those 256/8.5 lift Poncams make - most people reckon they idle quite well with them . Something I don't know at the moment is if the CAS was set to what the PFC thinks it is . The impression driving it home was initially a little flat till it started to boost , stock std turbo , but probably a bit better part throttle torque from that point . The people who's upgrade path I'm following were able to run considerably more advance with the same head and cam spec so that will very likely bring it alive , its also been my finding when using less restrictive (exhaust side) turbos - IMO hot side restrictions aid detonation . LOL I can understand why people get frustrated with the whooshing std turbo when other breathing mods are done . I'm very keen to see what the mid comp trim 0.82 A/R GT3076R can do though its going to need something better than a GTt SMIC . Really today I was just soft pedaling the thing to transport it home . The workshop started it twice from completly cold and went to a bit of effort to make sure the cooling system was bled properly . A little off my own topic but it was discovered that RB25 water pumps are unique so needed a genuine one which I don't mind because generally Nissan OE pumps are pretty good I believe . Because my car is at 91K it was getting the major service and the head and cams at the same time , pump time anyway . I gave them new Nismo injectors and genuine seals because for the work involved to root out side feed injectors I wanted these right the first time . I am wondering if the 13-14 year old fuel pressure regulator is worth replacing just to be sure , I wouldn't think an adjustable one is necessary with these squirters but if its cost neutral why not . I'll know more on Monday when its had a a bit of road tuning and will pass on some details . I don't really need or want to drive it until then and can't see the point of risking engine damage unnecessarily . Cheers A .