discopotato03

There is one option no one seems to have looked into and that's using the big frame diesel GT35 T4 flanged twin scroll twin integral gate (TWIG - twin wastegate internal gig) housing and fit a Garrett GT3782R into it . Sure it means profile turning a GT35 turbined housing to suit a GT37 turbine , which just happens to be in 78 trim instead of the 35's 84trim , but may be workable . That would get you T4 flange/twin scroll/twin integral gates/a big frame turbo with the same compressor wheel as a small frame GT3582R - and in a REAL GT40 compressor housing - not the T04S one . IMO the GT3582R is too much Bitzer , spin off from the HKS spec "GT3240" which had the turbine cropped and the comp wheel in 54T instead of 56T . A .

Hi all , someone hinted that Vipecs V44 may be made available with high current injector drivers in the near future . Any news of this and no not interested in a V88 for a four cylinder . Cheers Adrian .

Personally the only biggie there is how quickly you could get your hands on a std GT4088R , technically speaking it has it all over a T04Z anyway . The road to getting a 4088R to work is via a really good pulse divided manifold and probably two external gates . Where they are better off than most GT wheeled turbos is that the trim sizes have come down and that helps them to be responsive things in their size range . If they did the same thing with a GT4294R it would be more responsive and closer to what a T51R BB can do . Lets face it the T51R still uses ancient water pump tech turbines but in 76 trim they are more responsive that a better aero tech GT42 turbine in 84 trim . So a GT42 turbine in 78 trim ... A .

There are some interesting schools of thought on valve sizes and especially valve size ratios as in inlet to exhaust . I'm not home ATM and don't have a calculator handy , basically I think the valve area of the exhaust side needs to be something like 0.73 of the inlet to do well . I like David Vizards books on performance engine building and the one on BL's old A Series has lots of good principles outlined by someone who speaks real english . In the third revision which I have he speaks about valve size ratios in relation to static compression ratio and why that ~ 0.73 ratio works with low compression ratios where something like the 0.68 works out better for high CR engines with big cams . To be honest he was relating to NA engines but generally turbo engines are lowish static CR before they come on boost . I'd always try to enhance the hot side of a turbo engine because when it comes on boost it acts like a larger capacity NA engine exhaust flow wise so if it is to run well you can't really have exhaust restrictions when its running in a supercharged state . There are advantages to running larger valves and some say that its a bit like running higher performance cams only changing valves is more involved because they are not really a bolt on . I'd do valves before big cams because mild cams with big valves still behave nicely because the mild cam timing , wild cam splutter to me has everything to do with trapping efficiency and overlap timing . What I think is being sort after here is increased volumetric efficiency and while there's different ways to achieve it some give better overall results than others . I am no one in the scheme of things but given a choice with an RB25/26/30 I'd like to go one size up on the exhaust valves , I get the feeling that RB26's that have done any considerable mileage need exhaust guides anyway so cutting the seats for a slightly larger valve is no biggie . Fresh valve stems are nice in new guides to , critical heat transfer points through exhaust valve seats and guides . If you are careful with CR cams and turbo sizing I don't think you'd lose anything significant down low with slightly larger valves all round . I also think a well ported head makes a ig difference to the engines overall breathing characteristics . Your call , cheers A .

Yes the ID tag numbers usually tell you the wheel types and trims . Lets know what they are and I'll look them up . Cheers A .

No that one two post above isn't it either , that thing is called a "GT2876R" because it uses a GT28 NS111 turbine and a 76mm 48 trim 7/14 bladed compressor . The first one in the first post said 60mm by 55mm turbine so it wont be a 53.8mm GT28 turbine , those are the approximate dimensions of an 84 trim GT30 turbine . According to my lists there are 24 Garrett and HKS spec units in the "GT30BB" family . For these there are only 9 cartridges so to make up those 24 the variations are in the housings . A couple of years back I typed out most of the GT30 BB range and posted them on this board . Cartridge wise there are only 3 "real" GT3076R's or you could call them GT3037's because in the real versions terms it means the same thing . The most common is the largest compressor trim version or GT37 wheel family in 56T , less common is the GT37 52T version , and quite rare is the GT37 48T version . So all the same 76.2mm dia GT37 or BCI-18C wheels with 56/52/48 trim variations . They all use the same ~ 60mm GT30 UHP 84 trim turbine in these "REAL" 3037/GT3076R turbos . 56T cartridge 700177-5007 , 52T cartridge 700177-5006 , pretty sure the 48T cartridge is 700177-5005 . Complete units (minus turbine housings) 56T 700382-5012 - with Port shrouded compressor housing . 700382-5011 for with std comp housing inlet . 52T 700382-5010 - with PS housing . 700382-5009 without . To be confirmed but 48T unit is said to be 700382-5008 and non PS comp housing only . Not using the force , the 56T ones are easy to find and the 52T I own . A .

Look , for the price of some rubber water heater hose /low pressure fuel hose cut to length and slitted lengthwise so it slots over the exposed steel lines and retained with cable ties what do you have to lose ? IMO hot engine bay and a lot of exposed steel rail/tube to absorb heat , excess fuel doing the roundies between the pressure pump and the pot and IMO a flawed idea of just enough feed from the tank to keep the pot full . More fuel being cycled between the pot and the tank gives more heat sink area but the volume of fuel in the tank will warm up over time . Sorry to be blunt but if you reduce the heat exposed areas and use a pump correctly sized to do the job you shouldn't have a problem . I can't see the sense in going to great lengths to cater for a pump that is probably overkill and causing much of the grief . Your call .

There are a couple of options but as Nismoid said pointless if the manifold can't pass enough exhaust gas to make it worth the while . Two that spring to mind are the T04Z with a T3 flanged T4 turbine housing or a T3 flanged version of the GT37xxR turbos Garrett sell to the "deesel ute mate /aircraft carriers in the US market - think GMC/ Dodge Cummins Ram/Ford F111 . Both the T04Z and the GT37 BB turbos are the larger BB "frame" or shaft/center section units . Probably need at least a HKS cast low mount manifold to even start to flow well enough . A .

I don't think you can put a standard price on a job like that , there is always the risk of breaking fasteners around turbine housings and it takes time to get the remains out if they do shear off . If they all come out "easily" and don't damage any threads , and if all the pipework fits together and seals properly you could probably budget for something up to possibly a hour and a half . Too many ifs to work with . A .

I think properly made heat shields are the way to go , the heat insulation bags around the turbine housing are supposed to be good things too . Ideally you want to keep the heat in the exhaust gas so it can do positive things for you , heat radiated into an engine bay does nothing for you . A .

Yes those above pics are the ones I was refering to . They look similar/same as some on offer for GT3582R turbos . A .

Well for a start the first one isn't a 3037R or 3037 anything . To be a "3037" you need to have a GT30 turbine and a GT37 compressor wheel . The 7/14 bladed wheel is not a GT anything , from memory its either a T04S or a 76mm TB41 wheel . The second one is what you could call a 3037"S" , I believe S is the designation HKS gave their spec Garrett turbos in the GT30 family with port shrouded comp housings and 76.2mm GT37 compressors .

The problem you'll have is that everyone is going to have slightly different opinions so you have to find someone you trust and do the grasshopper thing with them . What you need is facts based on actual results rather than what someones personal spin is on these things . The bottom line (IMO) is that for significantly higher cylinder pressures you either use a competition standard of gasket or find ways to make more OEM ones stay put around the fire rings . Your call . How about we ask engine builders about their experiences with WIRE rings .

I have seen pics of a twin scroll T4 flanged 1.06 A/R turbine housing that may soon be available for BB GT30 based turbos ie GT3071RGT3076R/GT3082R . Probably not too many people wanting a big flanged GT30R but you never know . The housing looks like the one you sometimes see advertised for GR3582R's . As usual Geoff Raicer is in the thick of anything TS but at Sema time probably hard to contact . A .

You have two sets of O rings that seal the injector in the rails well and large washer shaped ones to seal the rail to the manifild itself . Genuine Nissan for S2 R33 GTS25T . "O-RING HOU LWR" - 16618 - 53J00 "O-RING HOU UPR" - 16618 - 10V05 "INSULR F/INJ.LWR" - 16636-72P00 Also insulators that fit under the screwed down steel caps . "INSUL F/I UPR - 16635 - 53J00 These came through John Robinson Nissan Rockdale in Sydney . I believe these are correct but check before you buy , Cheers Adrian .

Actually that 10% more I forgot to add means 10% more than the same sized GT compressor wheel . I think someone mentioned that they are a wheel machined from a forged billet of aluminium which is the economic way to get them into production . If possible they may cast them later . Versions mentioned (nothing concrete) may be a GTX4088R , GTX4094R and I think a GTX42R and GTX45R . Cheers A .

From Garrett Gearheads I hear Garrett is releasing a new series of compressor wheel or turbo called GTX-R . The spiel is that these compressors will be able to pump 10% more air and handle 10% higher pressure ratios (boost) . A couple of people think that it's big G's answer to extended tip technology . The only pic I could find loks like this . Note 11 blades and all full height , no splitter or "half" height ones . Cheers A . Um also Garrett claim they have fixed the swing valves twin integral gate system on their Evo 10 twin scroll GT3076R's turbine housings .

I don't agree and don't think it's outdated . I used to use Nismo competition head gaskets in Nissan L Series and FJ20 engines and never had problems with them . They basically had the wire ring inside the gaskets fire ring and you could plainly see the impression they left on the heads face . As far as I'm concerned Nissan Japan's OEM head gaskets are good things and if you use a wire ring to form a mechanical lock on the outside of the fire rings sandwich they can stand higher cylinder pressures without creeping and breaking their seal . Your calls , OEM standard of gasket with wire rings or very expensive gaskets without . There is actually another alternative and that was one I saw Alex (of Pulse Turbocherging/Pulse Racing) years ago use with his FJ's running 30 pounds of boost . Essentially you cut the fire rings out of a std headgasket so all it does is seal oil and water in their passages . The block has a step machined right at the tops of the bores and a non ferrous shallow ring is used to seal the chambers to the block face . I don't remember exactly which material these flat faced squared off rings were made of but the resulting mechanical seal helped him crank 700 + horsepower from his FJ Turbo engine on an engine dyno . Not bad from an admittedly solid two litre four . A .

There is one school of thought that if the transfer pump can move enough fuel to keep up with the main one then the rail return can return fuel to the main tank . I guess the idea is to sent any heat back to the main tank with the fuel doing the roundies . Trouble is that it just takes longer to heat up however much fuel is in the main tank and puts you back to square one later dependant on how full the main tank is . The way I see it heat can only come from the engine bay and the pumps themselves so the go I reckon is to not overkill with pumps and find ways to insulate the heat from exposed steel/aluminium fuel rails etc . If your engine is std I'd try just using the std R31 pump alone as an experiment to see if the problems go away . Also the surge tank or swirl pot , it only does you any good if you can get the cornering forces that could give fuel surge problems at the fuel pickup in the main tank . Is this isn't happening the pot stuff is achieving SFA . Do R31's have a tank surge issue ? Can the tank have baffles or a larger internal swirl pot fitted ? Cheers A .

I would have thought that an 044 is going to have a lot of fuel doing the roundies between the engine bay and the pot , actually if it was plumbed to the fuel tank it would probably be the same . It may pay to insulate any exposed sections of steel fuel line in the engine bay and this can be as easy as slitting large bore rubber hose and fitting it over the rail etc and retaining with zip ties . The less exposure the steel lines get the better as they have a fair bit of surface area and a lot of fuel racing around to conduct the heat to . It goes round and round in circles so much that it warms up over time and can form bubbles if it boils . When you car acts up try cracking the fuel filler cap to see if there is considerable pressure in the tank itself . A .

Heavy lug of a thing , this GT3576 wasn't quite as big in the comp housing as I thought but it is significant . The backplate /diffuser diameter was 4mm larger than the GT25BB adapter ring but on the OD it does make a difference at that diameter . The turbine housing is big/heavy/wide as you'd expect a GT40 1.17 A/R one with a twin inlet T4 International flange to be . The other turbo in some of these pics is my GT3037/GT3076R 52T for comparison . It is relevant because most reckon that Garrett GT3582R units use the same turbine housing castings as a GT3076R and I reckon its why the GT35R turbine maps don't look so good . Really I think trying to compare A std GT3582R to a To4Z or BW is a bit much because the Z and I reckon the BW's are large frame turbos . The Z is actually a real bitzer of large frame center section/BB conversion/bearing housing modded to suit old T4 turbine housings/a 60-1 iron backplate machined to suit the T04R compressor /ditto the T04S comp housing in Garrett marketed form . It's really a baby T51R with a P trim turbine and a bit less compressor and housing . Still all old T4 era aero tech . As you can see here Garrett do make big frame GT35 turbos based on the large frame center section and if you add the large frame BB internals thats about what a T51R BB is internally . I don't know if Garretts large frame plain bearing turbos are cheap like the BW's may be but I don't think their performance would be lacking . Also , nearly forgot , I hope you noticed that the GT40 turbine housing is twin scroll and twin integral waste gated . I think there is a smaller A/R version something like 1.05 A/R and that would be more suitable on an RB than 1.17 . Cheers A .

I finally got around to digging out that GT3576 large frame diesel turbo because I think some of you need to see what a man sized GT35 turbo looks like . For now I have pics of a GT37 and an 82mm GT40 compressor but will snap the big lug itself tomorrow . Note the slight differences in wheels from the different frame size turbos , the GT37 one is the same wheel used in Garretts small frame GT3076R/GT3037 56T but being from a big frame unit the back spacing is different and so is its fastening method . It has the full length hexagon on its nose and its known as a threaded bore wheel meaning no jamb nut to clamp it to the turbine shaft . The GT40 compressor is a bit mongreloided because it came out of R33 racers GT3082R/GT3040R and had suffered oil starvation and siezed the turbine side bearing race friction welding itself to the turbine shaft . Anyway its backspacing is different and it has the remnants of a hexagon on its nose but not threaded bore as they use a nut to hold it in place . The full sized GT40 will have a larger diameter backplate and diffuser section than a small frame GT3582R does and the sheer size of its turbine housing/center housing/compressor housing would dwarf a regular GT3582R . More tomorrow , cheers A .

Hi all , am in the process of adapting a smallish Garrett GT28BB turbo to an old Subaru RX Turbo (EA82T) and we need to make up water lines to suit . I don't want to use spoofy aluminium fittings , just std steel 14 x 1.5mm banjo bolts and the banjos with seasonably short (4-6") length of the original steel water tube . From memory any Nissan with a T25/28 or GT25/28 uses them and I need to rat some up quickly of a dead SR20DET or similar . Anyone in Sydney have this sort of gear up for grabs ? Cheers A .

You could try ATP in the US , I think GCG brings bits in from them at times . A .

GT30 turbine based turbos all suffer to varying degrees the large trim size of their turbines , same as GT35 based turbos . FJ's have a very good bore/stroke and rod/stroke ratio but still they a 1990cc . I got really good road car results from my FJ20ET and all it had was fresh std internals and a custom T28 flanged manifold with a GT2860RS on it . Same as with RB25DET's it is a challenge to get a GT3076R/GT3037 to be responsive without fitting small turbine housings and very expensive to go the twin scroll route . The Evo 10 TS GT30 turbine housing has issues so still needs work from its suppliers . Wrong flange for anything else as well . You could help your FJ by using a longer stroke crank and higher pin height pistons but thats very expensive to do . I really liked FJ's but the sad truth is that they are very heavy and bulky AND very expensive and time consuming to work on . So so long with the big bores/big gaps between them/two staggered twin row timing chains/and a timing cover with a water pump on the front of it . Slack in the chains and the work involved getting at the shims under the buckets drives you crazy in the end . So many times I have asked why people don't turbocharge the KA24DE and I'm still waiting for an answer . These are a bit long in the stroke but luckily they have long rods (I think longer than RB30's) so not all bad . A road or drift engine doesn't desperatly need to turn huge revs particularly if it makes its torque from extra capacity and boost as well so I think the KA stacks up pretty well . I know FJ people won't but to broaden your horizons do a bit of searching on the American 240SX sites because they get real good usable power from the larger 2.4L . Also look in Freshalloy.com and note what people have achieved with Full Races gear on KA engines . We actually get the KA24DE DOHC16 engine in the poverty pac Navara and it has or had 8.6 CR pistons std . From memory they had a version of the gearbox that Nissan puts in R33 GTS25T's so with that bellhousing a box with reasonable ratios and strong gears bolts up . The best version of the GT3076R for a streetable FJ20 IMO would be the very hard to find 48 compressor trim version of the GT3037 , I have the 52 trim version of that turbo with the port shrouded comp housing and while it should be more responsive than the usual 56T version on an RB25 or FJ20 I don't know by how much . Personally I think the RB25DET's higher CR (9.0 vs at best 8.5) helps make them a bit crisper and easier to spool the turbo so something to keep in mind . Early non intercooled FJ's had deeper dish pistons and a CR in the 7.9-8.0 range which IMO is too low for the fuels available today . The weight and bulk really killed these engines for me and the dizzy ignition system didn't help . Cheers A .