discopotato03

I am looking at having a turbine housing extrude honed and need some recommendations on where . From a sniff around Specialised Power Porting at St Helen in Victoria looks popular . Has anyone used them and were you satisfied with the result you got ? Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

Thanks for the input all , I can fill in some of the gaps so you have an idea whats percolating under the copper top . My dilemma is that I want it all where the reality is that there is always a degree of compromise and you need to bias that towards being good 90% of the time . Ecomomics come in to it too . The problem is that the Garrett's need the most customisation and I don't have the facilities or abilities to make all the one off bits . The other thing with them is that they are generic turbochargers that don't necessarily suit a given application . Yes I know in the past I've rabbited on about things that can be changed to tune these things a bit closer but you have to live with the results be they whatever . Also you have an orphan . The HKS units - the Pro S ones - are supposed to be very good and at least were tested and tuned around single RB 6 apps . Expensive but they give you everything in the kit . BTW can anyone with access to Nengun and Greenline quote the current bite for the 2835 and 3037 versions . Actually one here has offered me a quite reasonable deal for a second hand 3037 Pro S 0.68 but it wasn't off an RB and doesn't have all the doo dats to make it go bolt . It sounds good but there are no guarantees on the cartridges condition (seals/bearings) and you have to make up virtually all the rest of the kit . The word is that this version is good for about 300+ Kw . The can of worms this opens is that this is a little too much for a street tyre shod RWD car (with 2.5L) and I think the lower end may be just a little lazy - particularly if you can't use all the potential power . For a conservative like me the 2835 version is probably a better all round compromise for an ~ 270-280 Kw ask . Enter the GCG Hi Flow in large turbine housing form . I don't think anyone needs to be a rocket scientist to realise that these don't use the most modern wheels in existence but then again they were never intended to be a clean sheet approach . Gary has got 266 from his Hi Flow and when you do the calculations a group buy Hi Flow starts tp make more exotic turbos look very expensive . New for new the HF one is not too far behind the 2835 but look at the dollars . I wish I had money to burn and I'm not starving but money in the bank feels nice . The bean counter inside me is bending the internal ear with HF HF HF and the cost is hard to ignore . The right VG turbo I own and if it can be made a little bit smoother and better flowing with extrude honing then potentially 270+ is not unrealistic with a bar of boost . I have to keep reminding myself that this is a street car that needs to be easy to drive and live with 235 width tyres and soon a JB organic 277 rated clutch . Now to the extrude hone people and another OP6 housing if I can find one . Cheers Adrian .

Does anyone have links to suppliers of multi probe EGT systems ? I'm curious as to how its packaged and how it gets the message across - without necessarily data logging . I want to set up for Datalogit and Tech Edge and probably an RB25's cast exhaust manifold . I'm not sure if its practical to drill and tap a std manifold so are there other ways to get a usable heat reading like for example thermocouples under the mounting nuts . The only EGT system I ever saw in the flesh was a VDO gauge and single probe , I guess you'd go cross eyed looking at 6 of those ! It's not hard to see a single O2 probe getting an average and missing an individual cylinders death throws . If anyones interested in commenting is it the front cylinders that have issues masked by "safe AFR's" in single turbo RB's ? Cheers , A .

I do , it's an otherwise normal GT3582R with a T04R compressor wheel grafted in . In Garrett speak it would be called a GT3584R because the T04R compressor wheel is ~ 84mm OD and 66.7mm inducer diameter which is why the Americans would call it GT35"66"R . They are a "wildcat" as in Garrett don't make that combination available . The one they do offer is the T04Z which is similar deal but in a larger center section with a larger diameter shaft and a T04 P trim turbine . Cheers A .

As per that table there were 3 styles of turbine housing HKS optioned for that "GT2835" series of cartridges . Firstly were the T25/28 FLANGED IW GT28 housings in 0.64 or 0.86 A/R . Next were the T25/28 flanged non gated GT30 housings in 0.61/0.73 etc etc . Last were the T3 flanged GT Pro S GT30 IW housings in 0.68 and 0.87 A/R 's . Mm 900 , will look at that later . For the record I seem to remember see pics of std GT35R cartridges in T04B twin scroll T4 flanged turbine housings , don't know how well they work though . The one Geoff liked was the Turbonetic F1-35R . Cheers A .

Actually I should have asked before , were those 2835's running RB26 type GT28 IW turbine housings or the HKS T28 flanged GT30 turbine housings and external gate/s . Really those cropped GT30 turbines don't like living in GT28 turbine housings and the turbine efficiency in this form is a bit lame . I am curious as to the turbine housing on the GT35R , I think ATP Turbo in the US have been selling a T4 flanged turbine housing to suit 35R's but not sure if it was twin scroll or not . From a point of view of convenience that cast TS HKS low mount RB26 manifold may be a show if you were interested in looking for one but they're not common . They have a cast divider leading up to the top waste gate mounting point . I think the theory is that the TS housings help increase volumetric efficiency either side of the peak so increase the average I suppose . Yes I fully understand the less bulk and complexity of the single vs the twins . My private theory is that with elevated power levels like yours it's getting a bit restrictive trying to force that much exhaust gas volume through a "T3" sized flange and turbine housing . Full Race (LOL Twin Scroll) Geoff Raicer has said that once you get up close to 500 Hp worth of exhaust gas flow the pressure rise starts to limit power and increase temperatures . Also if you look at big ratio "T3" (I think Euro T4 is the proper name) flanged turbine housings in twin scroll form the inlets can only get so large without the walls getting too thin . Anyhow should feel pretty frisky with around 200 Hp/liter particularly when its starts 1000+ revs sooner . To pull it down significantly further probably means more cubic inches and dollars . Have fun , cheers A .

I'm interested in Mobil's synthetic motorbike oils and how they differ from their car engine intended synthetic oils . This is what they have to say to the bike people who want to know the differences . https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...FAQs.aspx#FAQs1 In short the additive pack is different to suit common engine/gearbox requirements and the wet plate clutch . Assuming that some of the V8 Supercar teams ran this oil it must be pretty hardy stuff which it would have to be anyway in a hard worked sport bike engine . I'm just curious to know what people think of running this 4T 10W40 or 15W50 in a road car engine . The 15W50 numbers don't worry me so much because previous research leads me to believe that the W as in 15W is a cold pouring/cold cranking winter index not a viscosity rating number . What does interest me about these 4T bike oils is the claimed lower friction modifier content which I take to mean they have to do the job standing on their own feet and without additives that can throw the towl in at high temperatures and loadings . I know that many bike engines use roller crankshaft bearings but not all of them . Can anyone that knows anything about V8 race engines offer any info about oils and if possible synthetic ones ? An interesting snipped I was told is that Royal Purple competition oils are a bit more biased towards alcohol or exotic fueled engines and it makes me wonder what the V8's are running now they're burning a variation of E85 . Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

I've been searching round some bike places to get info on Mobil's synthetic 4T 15W50 engine oil , which it seems is not the same formulation as their , I think , car type M1 Synthetic 15W50 . It's purpose made 4 stroke bike engine oil . That aside I came across this site which may interest those with more competition based cars and unconventional turbocharger mounting that requires something different with oil supply and return . http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Enjoy , cheers A .

I tend to think that a GT2835 , from memory cropped GT30 turbined GT3071R in 52T , is a bit more than half a GT3582R so twinned would have more capacity and start later than the GT3582R . A "GTRS" uses the smaller 9 bladed GT28 turbine in 76T , the 2835's cropped 10 bladed GT30 turbine is a couple of mm larger in 84T . A closer comparison could have been a pair of GT2530's (GT2860R 63T) vs the GT3582R in of course twin scroll twin gate form . Just my thoughts , cheers A .

I think it sounds pretty good for an 88K old engine that doesn't run a radiator type oil cooler . Some people run the 10W60 Castrol Edge and they don't seem to have any dramas . A .

The center section of these Hitachi turbos is larger in diameter and longer than a Garrett GT25BB based one . The generic T3/small shaft T4 bearing housing can be made to fit easily enough if you like that sort of dated stuff , which is why there as so many plain bearing Hi flows around . I don't think Garrett make their plain bearing GT cartridges with wheels smaller than say a GT3267 and the big frame GT BB ones start at GT3576R I think . Diesel turbines and too big for a Hitachi housing . A .

I think if I was going to be serious with it I'd base it on a 2835 or 3037 Pro S turbine housing but the prices of those are not acceptable to me . A .

Some good news on the Mobil oil front - for those in Sydney . There is a place at Legarno in southern Sydney that is planning to stock bulk supplies of Mobil 4T 15W50 synthetic and that's great news for me . In time you should be able to rock up there with a clean oil container and buy 5 liters or whatever of this direct from I expect 44 gal drums . Normally you can only buy this oil , if you can find it , in 4 or 1 liter containers which isn't price friendly for car use . People I trust tell me that HRT used to use this stuff in their V8's and I think Porka specify it as well in some cases . Stay tuned in a couple of weeks , cheers Adrian .

No worries , BTW IMO the T04Z (T04R BB) isn't the most high tech thing around but it does have a beefier center section inc a larger diameter turbine shaft . Also when first available they were sort of inexpensive (if that's possible) for what they are . I suspect they had a Garrett promo price . If the ask is 500 Hp then conservatively speaking the compressor section needs to be able to handle 50 lbs of air . I suppose if you mean at the wheels you have to allow for any losses in the system . I'd have to look but I think I remember Garrett rating the GT3582R at around 650 Hp so it sounds about right . An important thing to remember is that these power estimates are based on airflow capacity only , you have to get the exhaust gas through the other end with minimal restriction because the getting out the bad becomes the limiting factor - that and detonation I'd think . To get all 650 out of that turbo I reckon you need to think seriously about turbine housing size and your best chance will be with the largest or 1.06 A/R one . Sure the turbo will come on song a bit higher up the engines rev range but you were never going to make huge torque or power in the lower mid range anyway . IMO things like head work/mild cams/slightly higher CR's/better manifolds/low restriction IC's are the way to go about recovering some torque down low on engines with largish turbos . What engine are you running and in what state of tune ? Cheers A .

Quick update , going to see George at Aus Tools Dulwich hill tomorrow . He does a T&E branded 22mm oxygen sensor socket (2-7231) which has the hex on top for ~ $25 . He's going to let me do a trial fit so I'll know if it'll work . Cheers Adrian .

I don't want to destroy it , just remove it so a wide band can be used for tuning occasionally . obviously it has to be long enough to seat properly on the hexagon but not so long that I can't get a square drive into it or a suitably sized spaniard if it has a hex on the top of it . Also for some stupid reason I can't find any Snap On dealers contact numbers online for Southern Sydney . I drove past the local truck this morning but had other places to be at the time . Snap on Eddie - where are you !!! Cheers Adrian .

Just for the record I got to remove and compare the compressor housings off a std Z32 VG30DET BB turbo and a late R33 25DET turbo and the housings look like virtually the same casting . The differences are that the S2 RB25 one has no actuator pressure signal tap but it does have an anti reversion groove machined into it's snout . For the sake of it I tried to fit the VG's housing on the RB's turbo but it won't go because the RB versions composite compressor wheel is slightly larger in diameter . I'll have to check but I think the VG comp cover has 45V4 on it where the S2 RB one has 45V2 . I also need to get the VG's OP6 turbine housing off its cartridge to have a look inside it as well . There may be something to be had by giving it a light extrude hone just to get the best gas flow through it - smooth surface and less depth of boundary layer for gas flow . I also want to look at the size of the waste gates flat valve and the port it covers . I'd reckon if anything the exhaust gas flow is the limiter of most high flow turbos so if I can tart this housing up a little I might just get it a little closer to the 280+ Kw barrier and without much more than a bar of boost . Its would be nice , and a big ask , to get close to the 300 Kw limit the std exhaust manifold is said to do . If memory serves me correct the integral compressor end back-plate on these Hitachi turbos is very close to that of a Garrett T3 or T4 , I have an old bastard highflow that had screwy things done to so if I can unearth that some of these questions may be answered . In time , cheers A .

Just about sorted out what my clutch will be . The plate is going to be an OEM Exedy 300ZX TT one which is 250mm/10" and apparently has good linings according to Jim . They use a strong sprung center with plenty of "cushioning" so all good it seems . The pressure plate assembly will give about 2500 lbs clamping force which he said should be fine for an estimated 270 odd Kw of which I'm aiming for ~ 250+ . Jim said it should make for a very practical road car clutch meaning very easy to live with . It is hard to resist the temptation to go straight to a carbon composite paddle/button clutch plate but to be realistic I have NO intention of drag racing ever and can't say for sure if this car will ever see a circuit . What I can say is that the difference between this clutch and something that would be pretty bullet proof (with RWD and road rubber) is the above mentioned mentioned 250mm carbonic one . A whisper tells me that there may be a car out there with this combination so with luck I'll get to see for myself . Just a word on why Jim's conversations are so lengthy . He really does try hard to get to the bottom of what a prospective customer REALLY needs rather than over the top solutions . I guess it's not in his interests to sell people what they ask for if they are going to hate the result . As I said I've been there with feramic three button clutches and while it was possible to live with it the compromise gets very tiresome to live with in a road car . It was difficult to drive when tired , me not the clutch , because it was something you had to concentrate on every time you used it or it was baulky and cantankerous . Overall a clutch than is new/can handle a bit more torque/can be driven by anyone . Cheers A .

Hi Zebra , any chance of a pic of where the bleed valve is . I'm interested to know if a mount could be fabbed to fit the knock off manifold to mount the bleed valve conveniently . I was looking at one on an R33 yesterday and I'm also interested to see if the plenum inlet could be flange modified to take the std TB and so leave room for the std washer tank . Cheers A .

Hi all , need to be able to remove the 02 probe from my S2 R33 GTST and having had the heatshield out twice I think it's obvious that the only way is with a dedicated socket . Can anyone suggest a brand of socket known to work on these cars . Cheers A .

If you look on the turbos ID tag it should show a model number and or a cartridge number . A HKS GT2835 Pro S turbo is basically the cropped 84 trim version of the GT30 UHP turbine with a 71.1mm OD GT35 series compressor in 56 trim . According to my notes its cartridge number should be 700177-3 , or in long number speak 700177-0003 . My list shows the unit number as 700382-19 for a 2835 56T , but this may not necessarily be a Pro S unit number because they have RB specific turbine and compressor housings . Cheers A .

The GT37R ball bearing series are aftermarket diesel upgrade turbos from Garrett for things Like Dodge Cummins Ram and Ford or GMC trucks . They are the large BB frame size like T04Z/GT4088R/GT42R/T51R etc . They use Garrett's GT37 HP (high pressure ratio) turbine rather than the higher material spec UHP (ultra high pressure ratio) GT turbines for petrol engine apps . Geoff Raicer (Full Race Geoff) once mentioned that the diesel spec GT3788R would not be a brilliant petrol engine turbo mainly because it has too much compressor for a GT37 turbine . The "88R" compressor is the same wheel Garrett uses in the GT4088R and that most definitely is a petrol spec turbocharger . Some people see the T04Z (ball bearing T04R) as being a step up from the GT3582R and less expensive too . Being a T04 series turbo there is a wide range of single and twin scroll turbine housings for these in T3 and T4 flange . They use the same T04S comp housing as a GT3582R though profiled to suit the R rather than the GT40 compressor . What sort of power output are you chasing ? Cheers A .

My "spin" on R30 R200 LSD's . From the factory I think they only had one set of active plates in both sides where the Nismo ones had I think four sets . They also have a steel disc in each side that you remove which makes room for the extra plates . I had AJ pull mine down and fit the extra plates and it's pre load was ~ 65 lbs static (DR30 rear end in Bluebird) . Even this for road only was possibly a little high and around 50 may have been better . What it used to do was load up the center in first gear 90 degree take offs and judder a bit due to reduced differential action . The Ghost has my spare R200 R30 driveshafts . PM Dennis . Cheers A .

No that ones a ball bearing GT turbo , the give away is the lock nut and the remnants of the hex on the nose of the wheel . Plain bearing turbos with that 82mm GT40 compressor have a threaded bore wheel . Also you can see the difference in colour where the back-plates adapter ring (aluminium) surrounds the center housing (iron) . To the original poster , now that the compressor housing is off can you feel any binding when you turn the rotating assembly ? Also does the compressor turn true as on center or does it orbit indicating a bent shaft ? Can you see any obvious damage to the turbine blades ? I hate to say it but often when these small frame BB cartridges have a lose like that the outlook can be bleak . They are designed to be lightweight/low inertia for high speed use and don't have the strength to handle out of balance forces . They normally run small clearances on the housings for higher wheel efficiencies . Also the GT3582R is the largest in the GT25 or small frame ball bearing family . It has the largest diameter (and heaviest) turbine and compressor wheels meaning that if anything runs out of alignment and or balance the shaft wants to flex at its smallest diameter - which is the journal the compressor wheel fits over . Actually from memory the BB GT35R's turbine shaft is slightly larger in that area than the rest off the GT25BB center section turbos (maybe GT3082R as well) possibly because Garrett realised that the 82mm dia wheel was likely to bend it . Cheers A .

No I didn't see a cartridge I saw a compressor wheel - bare . The other thing is that if you sandwich a Garrett BB cartridge between Hitachi housings none of the OEM plumbing for water and oil fits , the cartridge is shorter too . I am hoping someone has pics of R33 and R34 Hitachi's because I'm sure I remember one of the later versions having a larger comp cover . Cheers A . BTW yes it does matter the number of compressor blades , T series turbines usually prefer T series compressors and ditto for GT series wheels .