discopotato03

Mortal unfortunately but IMO GT2860RS every time . These are difficult to beat for the power outup they were designed for which is probably around 320 + Hp . If you don't have control of your engines fueling and timing then yeah go for the GT2860R . Don't want to go too deep but wheel wise a GT2860RS is GT"2530" but with a slightly smaller trim compressor (62 vs 63) but greater exducer tip height . They also use (were intended to use) the larger of the two turbine housing sizes (0.86 A/R vs 0.64 A/R) . SR20 people who don't have the means to tune or can't/won't accept that more advanced timing where necessary really wakes up an engine with the larger housing use the smaller housing - which chokes the engine . The feller that spec'd this turbo (JC) used to work for Garrett in the US and wanted something for his circuit Miata (MX5) and the GT2860RS 0.86 A/R is the production version of what he put together . He needed a turbo for his BP18 that would be responsive without being restrictive on the exhaust side and that is what he got . I had possibly the first one sold in Aust and used it on a street FJ20ET which worked really well . These are not a numbers turbo for bragging rights but they make an excellent torque in the sort of rev range most 2L engines are driven in . There was an article in the June 2003 Sport Compact Car - Project Nissan Silvia Part II Behold the Potato . I'm sure if you search you'll find that one and it has most of the turbos details and pics , and how it was fitted to a JDM SR20DET in a USDM S13 . Hope this helps , cheers A .

I can't seem to edit my last post , MSTS should have been MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet . A .

Hi again , been out of the apple juice scene recently . From what I could tell a while back Manildra Grp and CSR were the ones making Ethanol Alcohol for fuels . I don't have time to search ATM but it would be interesting to know if Australia has standards yet for "E85" fuel . Gary (SK) mentioned that he went looking for an MSTS but came up with zip . Somewhere in this thread I think I posted an American one just to show some form of standard . I do remember them saying over there that "E85" blends are altered in the winter time because it can be hard to make fire up in cold conditions . There may have even been ways of tossing in straight fuel at start up - and you can imagine what an EPA type organisation would say about that . I can't say with our "E85" but there is definitely differences with locally available E10 , I think a lot of that "budget fuel" is 10% ethanol and 90% of the cheapest rubbish they can legally (?) sell . The stuff I was burning in the 300K old Subaru RX Turbo was supposedly 95E10 and felt like burning 95ULP . BTW is the servo just past the Meccano Set (Old Hume Hwy/Woodville Rd) selling E85 to the public yet or are they still playing games ? What's the price of E85 like these days , I think the recent fall in ULP prices may have killed off some interest in E85 but price is on the rise again . Stupid when crude is as cheap as it'supposed to be but at least the OPEC suppliers now know they won't have it all their own way . The urban myth about corn and ethanol is because cork heads don't realse that you get back most of what you put in after making ethanol from corn . Anyone know if the VE Commode got flex fuel capability yet ? Cheers A .

Yep speak to Stu and Jacko , they will tell you the pros and cons and probably suggest a Zed or an R32 . Have seen 100G Zed builds out there . A .

Hmm , R30's . I was there a few cars back with a quite clean DR30 (FJ20ET) . Before digging into the mechanicals be warned that it's very easy to spend heaps on those cars and not be satisfied , IMO their worst features are that semi trailing arm IRS and prehistoric drag link steering . The long nose R200 is a good thing . Personally I'd lose the R30 quick and get an R32GTST for far more modern exerything . That aside and back to the Nissan L series , probably most let down by their heads . Not within a bulls roar of an RB20 head (L20a head) or an RB25/26 head (L28 head) . As you possibly know Nissan only turbocharged the L20a (2000cc same bore and stroke as RB20) and the largest or L28 - L28ET . There are people here in the classic section that live and breathe L6 turbos but they are limited in production (read affordable) tune . There were siamese core L28 blocks and things like very large chambered P90 turbo heads with raised roofs and shorter valve stems . They were built in an era when production cars had quite low static compression ratios and no intercooling . So with the Turbo head/low CR/different pistons/exhaust manifold I think lifted from the L20a ET/slightly larger injectors (250-280cc ?) they had the 280Z and ZX turbo cars . Digging deep into the memory bank but I think some turbo L28ETs had a crank trigger and a "distributor" with a single sync pulse output only . As for the turbochargers yes they were old T3 series dinosaurs with housings supplied by Nissan . The L20a one is supposed to be really small in the turbine housing which would have been necessary to get response out of 330 odd cc cylinders . Very early RB20DETs also had real small turbos - the bush bearing ones . Its a long time since I've seen an early T3 with Nissan housings on them but I think some Z18's and L20a ET's had a turbine housing A/R ratio of 0.36 where late FJ20s/some z18's were 0.48 and early FJ and all RB30ET's had the larger 0.63 A/R turbine housing . Having low compression ratios and no intercooling kills bottom end power and to get it back they had to resort to small housings to get some squirt in the "mid" range . Small turbos are exhaust side restrictive and this stops them having much of a usable rev range except round the burbs . If you really want to persue a turbo L6 I wouldn't go about it the way many do by chasing up old hard to get expensive L28ET bits . I'd go with the largest one made which was the L28 but they are a pain in an R30 because they are designed to have the sump reservoir at the back insted of the front and altering the pickup is not a simple thing . I think the MQ Patrol one may have it the right way for an R30 but check up on it . Those P90 open chambered heads are fine for low CRs but you don't want that . The very first of the MR30 2.4E's (1981 ?) had a better head casting than later emission heads and these have the closed heart shaped chambers similar to a real L16/18 SSS 219 casting head . I think all L4/L6 have the same valve spacing so the largest std L28 valves should go in but may need to change seats depending on what size and material the L24 head has . Pistons would probably have to be made for a turbo app . Crank and rods are good and if you used a BB turbo the oil pump should also be good . The exhaust manifold is what you'd expect from the 70's so with a clean up it's livable . I wouldn't go overly big on the turbo because you want some response from the limited exhaust gas flow available . I couldn't bring myself to throw that much money at any R30 , its never going to feel remotely like say an affordable R32GTST handling wise - no matter what you do to it . You never know how much you miss rack and pinion steering till you dont have it . Rebuild bits for R30 steering boxes don't exist - period . Front ball joints , non replacable buy arms if you can still get them - ouch ... Four bolt hubs and the only wheels that truly suit them are rare Rays engineering forged ones like my DR30 had , weird reverse rim thing . Five stud conversions very involved and exy . Gearbox is the short narrow geared 71 series - suits the long L6 in R30 . R30 R200 rear drive shafts are thin on the ground now and if you want a real four bevel gear LSD it means Nizmo . I'd be doing myself a favour and buying a Skyline that comes with multilink suspension/four piston brakes/five stud hubs/an EFI turbo twin cam engine/stronger gearbox/better parts availability/better resale value . Your money your call . Cheers A .

Bass , not sure about the "3037 GTRS" terminology . The GT2835 and GT3037 Pro S turbos are good bolt on turbos for RB25 DETs , probably the best turbine housing and dump pipe you'll find for this frame size in the Jap aftermarket . You can also buy in Garrett form a GT3076R turbo with a propper GT30 integral waste gate turbine housing but you have to chase up dump pipes and water/oil plumbing yourself if you go that way . If you really want HKS and the integral wastegate then it'll have to be the GT3037 Pro S with the larger 0.87 A/R turbine housing option for your power ask . I think the 0.87 GT2835 Pro S would be nicer most of the time on a street car . Also BTW you don't really need 290 RWKW to keep up here , you can't out run radio waves so the wallopers will get you if use that sort of power frequently on the street . I think Brett was right when he said most that aren't used to it auto defacate with 240+ RWKW on the street . My 2c cheers A .

This is the site and thread I was thinking of . It sounds like he is using a Subie spec (both coolant holes on same side) WRX TD04L 13T/6 with the housings bored out to suit the larger sized "HL" spec turbine and 19T compressor wheel . http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....1&hl=TD04HL Silly me was not thinking of Toyotas and CT series turbos , std on those sounds like a CT9 . Hope this helps , cheers A .

I can see the logic in turbocharging a 1300 twin cam but dunno about with a "T3" flanged turbo let alone an old dinosaur T3 turbo . To quantify , the T3 flange/footprint is pretty big for the sort of exhaust gas flow a 1300 four puts out and not that easy to package on a smallish exhaust manifold . Its this very reason that Nissan went to the T25/28 footprint on SR20s and RB26s - they are compact and easily up to the task flange size wise . On someone elses computer I have a link to I think an Australian starlet site - to a thread about some fella doing a Mitsibushi TD04HL turbo for his Starlet GT . Does EP82 sound familiar ? Your call but if you can get the factory exhaust manifold from a turbo Starlet this could be a good starting point . If they used a TD04 and a suitable turbine housing - or mount flange style - I can give you lots of info on TD04's . People write these turbos of as useless because all the Rex boys throw em away for a TD05 , they don't do their homework to find out about the full range of turbines and compressors available in the TD04 range . When I find the starlet thread I'll find what that fella used but I'm pretty sure the cartridge was a TD04HL 19T . Cheers A .

I'd be interested to know how that combination works on an RB26 . Cheers A .

If you open that link I posted originally it shows a picture of one wearing the T4 flanged turbine housing , in the bottom RHS of that page it gives you the part no's and A/R ratios too . 740902-18 = 0.63 a/R 740902-17 = 0.82 a/R 740902-16 = 1.06 A/R . Cheers A .

No , the plug off the Mazda Transistor box (or some Mazda AFMs) is what is needed to plug the R33 std AFM loom (car harness side) into . To spell it out , your R33 GTSTs factory AFM has a male 3 pin shrouded connector to which the std female loom connector plugs into . I have not been able to find the necessary 3 pin male plug other than on R33 AFMs/some 90s era Mazda AFMs and or transistor . Like I said earlier I want to make an adapter loom which plugs into an R33s std female loom plug and the Z32TT AFM at its other end . The Z32TT AFM can use the same plug as VL Commodores use so if hard up cut one off a Commode at a wrecker . New is always preferable with electrical plug fittings but second handies if in good nick (no dry or high resistance joints) can work too . A .

The turbobygarrett site is showing some more turbine housing options for Garretts GT3582R turbocharger , you'd think these were what was needed to get the most from these turbos but need a serious T4 flanged manifold maybe something like the cast HKS RB26 one . Sadly these housings are single scroll but maybe later TS ones will get the nod . http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_714568_10.htm Cheers A .

A little more info in case anyone is looking for the male plug fitting that S2 R33 GTS25T's have on their std AFM's . Some of the mid 90's Mazda 626's have a transister which uses this same plug . Their male plugs are moulded into a rectangular composite box which has an aluminium plate glued to the mounting side . When you remove (pry gently) this plate of the box is full of a gelatinous silicon solution , the electronic guts are on the inner side of the ally plate . Once the guts are removed you are left with the three pins which you could solder three wires to and feed out through holes you could drill in the rear of the box . Fill the empty space with araldite (not acid cure silastic) and wire your VL type AFM plug to your three wires . Plug the adapter box to your R33s AFM plug and the VL type one to your VG30TT AFM . Easy ? Cheers A .

Do you have any pics of this thing ? A .

I've seen pics of a turbo very similar to that I think here . Can't remember exactly but I think it was either an early HKS GT2530 or GT2535 . The compressor housing is Garrett T04B in 0.60 A/R , the four bolt reducing adapter on the front of it looks like typical HKS . You can't see enough in your pics of the turbine housing but the turbine itself is almost certainly the one used in HKS 2530/2535/2540 . As Nismoid says look at the ID tags numbers . My notes reckon the cartridge numbers (CHRA) are 446179-21 for the 2530 and 446179-19 for the 2535 . ID tag pic , cheers A .

I had a closer look at the above snap of the compressor side and I'm reasonably certain the compressor housing is T04E family not T04S so theres a good chance it's a GT3071R - with one of Garretts GT30 T3 flanged IW turbine housings . The air inlet boss has been machined down to accept a smaller duct than one designed to fit the std snout . Is Brett offering a kit to suit RB25s ? Also URAS can I have a link to the thred you made recently . Cheers A .

If you ask Brett at GCG he could probably sell you a flange plate to match the housings outlet , need to make a dump pipe using that flange or one like it . GCG/Garrett/Ford should be able to supply the gasket . A . PS if the turbo still has its Garrett ID tag the cartridge (CHRA) number from memory is 700177-14 or -5014 for a GT3082R .

I wouldn't think anything production based'd get anything like lower than inlet manifold pressure under boost . The closer you can get exhaust manifold pressure down to inlet manifold pressure the better , looking past boost pressure is a mindset . It's hard to convince people that big gains are to be made in reducing hot side restrictions because its effectively the same thing in reverse . The things that do this don't look bling and don't win points in bonnet up tinnie sessions . They are expensive because you are then trying to undo characteristics the manufacturers build into production cars . Get it righ and its possible to make killer mid range torque and that feels like big NA engine squirt . A .

If the people making front mount intercoolers for standardish plumbing were smart they have the IC tanks top and bottom rather than either side , that way both inlet and outlet face the direction the ducting comes from so no 180 bend and extra length of pipe . Many won't agree but I'm with Corky Bell , the way to make a propper IC is to have more tubes not longer tubes . From your fluid dynamics studies you can easily see why many of these brain dead intercoolers don't work properly , the tanks are too narrow and the ducts are often way to close to the cores end plates . As you say gas , particularly at high velocities , doesn't want to know about changing direction so you get a pressure rise where you don't want it . If I had to use the std plumbing (RB25) I'd go with the vertical flow FMIC , if you don't mind the non standard pipe kits I think the 180 bend off the TB and across to the offside and through a std GTR IC is good value . If you can go with a GReedy type inlet manifold this is much neater . Just my 2c , cheers A .

Yes if you quiz Geoff he'd tell you it's all about keeping the flow rate high and the pressure low . You want the pressure rise and fall ("pulse") to be sharp and quick and to be as good as it can be you need total isolation of the front and rear three cylinders (on an inline 6) all the way to the turbine nossles . To have one ext gate means it has to be able to vent both sides and that means having a divider at the gates collector/mount . The divider can't touch the gates valve because it won't then seat and seal . The small gap necessary does allow some leakage and this affects the manifold pressures being high or low when they need to be , not as sharp or quick in the changover so some of the positive pulse energy is lost . Still better than a single scroll housing but not the ultimate . A .

Your calls but if you were having a manifold made I'd hold off for the twin scroll twin integral (internal) gate turbine housing Garrett are going to do for the Lancer Evo 10 . You get all of the benefits of the twin scroll sysyem without the agro of one or two external waste gates . I believe the housings they are doing will be in 0.73 and 0.94 A/R ratio , sort of the 73 for the GT3071R and the 94 for the GT3076R but they should interchange . I'm sure a manifold and dump pipe to suit this housing on an RB six would not be too difficult to run up . Cheers A . PS don't know when they will be available , check with Garrett or GCG if need a time frame .

When I asked overseas the answer came back that the 707160-9 turbo was what HKS sell as a GTR spec GTSS . Just recently Garrett updated there web page to show two "GT2859R" turbo variants , the first being the 707160-9 and the second I think the same one but with actuators provided . If you look at their web page it shows the same 446179-65 cartridge used in both so I suppose we assume they are the same turbo . Cheers A .

This won't sound right initially but it makes complete sense if you think about it . Fact 1 , radiator fans are there to control the temperature of the water in the RADIATOR not the engine . Fact 2 , IF the temperature of the water in the radiator is the same as that in the engine it can't reduce the engine water temp . For a cooling system to work properly the coolant in the radiator MUST be cooler that that in the engine . When it is then the water thermostat can maintain a steady temperature in the engine . So elec fan sensors need to switch the fans on BEFORE the temperature of the water in the radiator reaches that of the water thermostats rating . IMO the reason why the mechanical fans work so well is that they run all the time and the temperature of the water in the radiator can be quite low - remember its the water thermostat controlling the engine water temperature . For some curious reason some people try to use electric fans and sensors to read engine water temperature rather than rad water temp . They set the fan switch to come it at say 90 odd deg C - meaning when the entire cooling sysyem is at 90 C meaning all the water in the engine and the radiator . The poor old elec fans end up on their knees trying to drag the heat out of the entire volume of coolant rather than just whats exiting the engine . Had the fans been maintaining say 60-70 deg C in the RADIATOR then there would be a cool water reserve to enter the engine when the thermostat opened up wide and a steady temperature is easier to regulate . I think its silly to try to regulate engine temperature with elec fan thermostats when the factory supplied a water one to do just that . As for the fans running too long , its either because they don't move enough air or they were set a bit high temperature wise . A couple of other interesting things , Davies Craig say that their fans move more air in push mode than pull mode . Quite often one big fan works much better than two smaller ones . Radiators in these cars are wider than they are high and the std fans diameter is not equal to the width of the rad core . I had twin DR30 elec fans and an R32 GTR rad in my old FJT'd Bluebird and I got it to work quite well with a bit of experimentation . Bottom line , if you can't control rad water temp it can't cool the engine itself . Lastly if elec fans are set high the post rads air temp is also high when they are running and they dump all that heat primarily in the engine bay . Personally I'd rather have the fans maintaining the rad temp lower and having them pull warm rather than real hot air into the engine bay . My thoughts only , cheers A .

Yes being big on the exhaust side compared to the compressor end makes me thing it's aimed at some sort of large capacity low reving engine - Dieseasel . In some ways it has similar traits to a GT3071R but without ball bearings and water cooling , diesel spec turbine . Some sort of bitzer turbo I think . Note ID tag is not a Garrett stamped one . A .

From the pics that thing is weird , I'm not so sure that Garrett actually make a plain bearing GT30 based turbo . The turbine being 11 bladed looks different from the 10 blade petrol spec GT30UHP . The compressor housing looks more like a T3 sized one , T04B's are mostly 0.60 A/R though they do also do 0.50 and 0.70 A/R ones as well (Garrett that is) . It's not some kind of Chinese copy of god knows what is it ? A .