OEM_as_f*ck

Air Flow Meter. Clean AFM, do a thorough service ie oil/filter/plugs, remove cheap/wet type pod filter if you have one, reset ECU, see how you go

So many things it could be... A few to check/swap/test/clean CAS TPS AFM Fuel pump Voltage to fuel pump Hard to tell as "glug" could mean a lot of things, but if you try all these ^ plus what youve already done you should get somewhere. Also make sure the spare bits you try are known working, not possibly working. Actually install them on or borrow them from a mates car that runs properly. Good luck!

This ^^ Make sure the vacuum/boost control arrangement to the gate is plumbed up correctly. If still no win, get a stronger spring closer to the pressure you want to run. If still no win, buy a decent wastegate, I don't care what anyone says, cheap gates are nothing but trouble.

Rose joints last f**king ages, don't listen to this rubbish. Its not uncommon to buy cheap old cusco pillow ball arms from the import wreckers that have been on a car for years and years in japan, and there is nothing wrong with them. Rubber or poly bushes are shit, it's more likely that the poly will flog out quicker than a pillow ball. That said, cheap chinese pillow balls will indeed flog out much quicker. Thats really the only problem with cheap china shit, that and the fact you have to tell people you have cheap chinese arms.

Lifters. If its only just been rebuilt, you may just need the right oil. Plenty of people go putting super thin oil in there RB's because it says for high performance cars on the bottle and has pictures of drag cars and chequered flags and modern fast and furious style text fonts. Then they end up with rattly ticky engines that aren't getting the lubrication they need.

Mechanics were invented so that people who don't know how to work on cars could still have their car repaired or inspected in the event of a problem, usually in exchange for currency, which you may refer to as dollars. If you don't have the mechanical skills to remove your undertray and trace a fluid leak, why bother even posting on here? Just take it to a mechanic and get it checked. I don't understand why so many people on here have such a problem with this.

Plugs are most likely covered in shit from driving around with f**ked coilpacks. Change them. If your mechanic changed one coilpack, I would never go back there again. Unless you told him to quick-fix it and change one. Its like buying one new tyre, or replacing one big end bearing, or one brake pad. Just stupid.

He just said before that he has a straight vacuum hose from the pressure source to the wastegate actuator. So he doesnt have any wires to ground. Also, he wants to lower the boost, not increase it. The stock wastegate should be fine with those mods, and a little gate creep is normal. You don't need a bigger wastegate flap, a new ECU or a high flowed turbo. And you shouldn't need to run a stupid f**king restrictor in the exhaust. Your just painting over dirt. I'm willing to bet it has a bigger actuator fitted, just go and fit the original actuator back onto it and your problems will be solved.

Its not really going to damage anything. However, if you think it sounds quite nasty, get it changed. If you have changed your clutch recently then don't worry about the clutch, just get a bearing. If you've had the car for a while and the clutch is of unknow origin and age, change the lot. From what I have seen, with general road use, the bearings normally either outlast, or die around the same time, as a clutch. And they are usually changed with the clutch, so if the bearing is dead, clutch is usually getting close too. Just for your thoughts.

This ^^ Its pretty normal man, if you drive in the wrong gear because you are lazy, your car will not like you and it will express this dislike by making noises. Pretty much every car in the world does it. Use the right gear and the problem is gone

Its not the airflow, its the oil flow. Throwout bearing is roughly $20-$30 from any auto store. Problem is you have to pull the box off to change it. If its only doing it occasionally just forget about it and change it when you next do your clutch.

Try cleaning the AFM before you go buying another one. Also, check for any possible way air could be entering the engine without passing through the AFM. For example, cracked/broken/missing/unplugged vacuum hoses, bodgy installation of boost gauges/controllers or leaking/poorly installed blow off valves etc.

Clutch throwout bearing. On a side note, you can't rollstart EFI cars if the battery is totally dead. Sometimes you can if it's just a bit too flat to crank, but still powers the car up. On another side note, leaving any engine idling for extended periods is bad. Just stick a thin piece of cardboard behind the throttle stop. Keeps revs higher, better for the engine and will charge the battery a lot faster as well.

Lol this comment is so funny! Love it when someone with no brain is shut down by someone with a great useful brain. Joy

Hey guys 90% of the time these problems are the idle control valve. When you first start it in the morning, the ECU runs the motor a little rich for a few minutes, like a choke on a carburetted engine. This improves cold starting and idles the motor a little higher to help build oil pressure and warm the motor quickly. If the idle control valve is blocked or not opening correctly, less air will enter the engine. Not enough air combined with the already rich fuel mixtures means that the engine is simply going to run like shit until the choke is cancelled either by you blipping the throttle or by restarting the engine. Hope this helps