rcs_888

So it turns out that after the fire in the engine bay there have been a couple of niggling issues but now that all the AC components are removed and the charcoal canister etc the engine bay is looking alot cleaner and less cluttered now it just needs a good scrub Now this is more for my reccords so there in one place MALLALA - 1.31-1.32 rough times 1st time out 40* day light breeze 50* on track Overheating issues 8psi boost 28psi cold pressure all round 32psi hot pressure good balling on all tyres Understeer on turn in main issue Want to try less front pressure Also need to upgrade swaybars soon and hopefully that will gain me abit of grip

Well its now decided that the carbon/charcoal canister is being removed now i just need to sort something out for the vent in the fuel tank. Does anyone know of the fuel filler cap is completley sealed or if it can vent?

Well the charcoal canister has a line that runs down alongside the exhaust and just infront of the CAT there is this once upon a time plastic piece. Was it just a joiner that i can replace with rubber?

Well tonight i have managed to remove the old AC condensor, most the pipes, the pump is now sitting at the bottom of the engine bay as its gotten too dark to work on it and i cant see any way of getting it out easily lol. Also found a molten something will take a pic in a min if someone can tell me what it is

Cheers buddy

I can make you rail mounts if you want mate i work in a fabrication shop so its not too hard for me lol but in happy to help ppl out. Where u located?

Yeah made it heaps lower because of the way i made the mounts i was able to actually sit the seat below the base line. Im just over 6ft so i like a lower seat position with a helmet on and soon to be caged so it sits really nice IMO

Yeah im possibly going to start making some for interested parties and i have made a harness bar so that bolts upto the rear reel and bolts up at the base where the rear latch once was because i cant seem to find any for sale currently

Been rather slack on the forum latley. Im terrible with keeping threads updated. Well i had my first track day on sunday out at Mallala. Day was awesome fun but had several issues. Firstly we tried setting the engine bay on fire lol. When i put the new dump pipe on ot was kinda close to the AC lines so pushed them out the way and strapped them down but with the motor moving around it melted thru them and set the insulation on the firewall on fire lol. The day was about 40deg and on track temp was in the 50's so was struggaling with overheating. Ended up taking boost down to 8psi and short shifting but other than that it was a good day out. Got my new seat and harness in it Then put my new steering wheel and quick release hub on As for engine ive been teaching myself alloy tig so tigged on some breather fittings to rocker covers and finnished my catch can But next project is going to be remove all the AC gear so condensor, pump, lines etc.. and next event is a motorkhana in march

Okay so after a bunch more reading and chatting to a mate who borrowed the car he blew off an intercooler pipe while driving it and decided to just disconnect the AFM to just limp it home. Love finding out about this after the fact.. lol and ive given it shit an never blown one off??? oh well. So I'm guessing that is why i had an Open Circuit Fault. So I have done the paper clip trick and it only came up with fault #33 so I'm guessing now that its been reset and no AFM disconnected its possibly just the O2 sensor fail. I also found this http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219569-r34-oxygen-sensor-test/ so i did this and i didn't even get 1 flash so im guessing it is completely dead. picking up a new one tomorrow. So sorry for thread it can be deleted if admin wants

Hey Guys, Been having the Check Engine Light coming on and off. When starting up the car in the morning it idles nicely and no real problem but then after a while and as the car warms up it starts to cough and splutter abit. So took it down to a mate and scanned the ECU and came up with fault #12 Airflow meter short or open circuit and the second code it came up with was #33 O2 Sensor. So we cleared the computer and i drove home and no codes came up but i must say that i was giving it some abuse on the way and no light came back on and then the missus and i went for a drive for lunch etc and just cruising home it decided to come back on so im guessing at cruising speed the O2 sensor is dead so might just buy another one. As for the AFM being a short or open curcuit we wobbled the plug and pins and the light is still on etc could the AFM have died or is it more possible for it to be a wiring issue somewhere? I searched google for others with the #12 fault and not many people seem to have an issue so i didnt manage to find anything. can someone shed some light for me? Cheers Guys

No the fusable link is generally in the fuse box so normally off the battery to starter motor run theres no fuse. That black thing next to the oil filter is my fuse i do alot of car audio and its just a fuse that you can get from JB HiFi autobarn who ever mine is a pole type

Thanks bud. Im guessing there whiteline units? Im just saving some coin for a cage currently planning on doing a hillclimb called Mt Alma Mile and last time i went there i saw one car flip into a paddoc so i reckon its cheap insurance haha

thanks mate yeah Im one of those people that i have very low funds and generally zero time aswell but i will always try and make something myself instead of buying or paying someone else to do it plus alot of what i have done in the past if one off work. My wagon is one of only 1000 in the country and then to tub it and bag it its probs the only one in aus like it so nothing for it was bought off the shelf. as for the moke as you can see everything was done inhouse by myself aswell i have a build thread for my skyline and sofar that has a fair few custom bits ive made for it. And Jiffo no i will use my old hub and weld the threads in it currently then machine the face flat and then drill it and tap it again then go and take it to get X rayed and make sure that it has no cracks in it or inclusions on the weld etc.. Other possibility is to put a bolt in the hole plug weld it in and then machine it up and redrill and tap in the new location

Im sure at 14psi it will die haha nah it has abit of play currently the motors got 170k on it and idk how well its been maintained so i really wouldnt want to sell it to anyone just for my own peace of mind. Yeah the wheels in the bottom pic were 19's and had ZERO sidewall and i was never going to fit some sticky tyres on them and have any form of grip so flicked them with tyres for like 800 picked up the GTT rims with tyres for 200 and the rest of the cash went on the Kumhos. Yeah in SA the cops LOVE imports i used to drive a BMW convertible slammed and just outright crazy wheels an never got looked at this car with a full 3" exhaust from turbo to 100cel cat and single mufler its loud and they were all snapping necks with the body kit and since thats gone they hardly look.

Hey dude got a set of Varrstoen 2.2.1 wheels 18x9.5+12 front and 18x10.5+15 rears. Rears have 235 stretched on but ones popped off the bead other is on and fitted and both fronts have no tyres

Yeah i have my old skyline rotors i might machine off the brake surface and use the hat as a template as that locates on the centrebore. I also have studs so ill just turn them into centre punches and once the first holes drilled ill just bolt it down. Cheers yeah the mokes been a journey Widened it Rebuilt engine New stainless brake lines throughout FULL new wiring harness New floor, all suspension rebuilt, blasted and powdercoated, drum to disk conversion etc was a massive build and all done by myself and just trial and error so that was why i did get rather frustrated before as you now might understand

Yeah this is my first car with boost other than a r31 skidder with an rb20 me n a mate built lol. Yeah mine seems to be going alright on 10psi but at the end of the day im just driving it till it dies i have a near new kinugawa TD06 20g 8cm2 and a TOG steampipe manifold for once this turbo dies then also have 880cc injectors, pfc, turbosmart fpr800, z32 etc waiting to go on lol. Lip i ordered was 35 with ppstage it just looks like some foam will post more pice when i get it. Nah i like the orange indicators to an officer driving the opposite way the car amost looks stock its not low and as for your question of wheels etc.... there stock R34 GTT wheels.. nice n light an nissan make strong wheels. Noone looks at the twice draws no attention but with 235/45R17 Kumho KU36's on they have a nice amount of grip.

Yeah unfortunatley i have been brought up in a family of noone mechanical and have no mates mechanical and so far i have managed to teach myself everything to build my BMW and now im trying to teach myself about the skyline. The BMW forums i have been on have been massivley helpfull as ive never had anyone teach me anything my whole life has just been reading and trying to do it myself and ive had alot of fails but ive also managed to build this over the past 2 years I have also bagged the front but trying to get it another 15mm lower so trying to go from 19x9.5 fronts to 18x9.5 fronts to get the sils down and level. And unfortunatley i have a set of 18x9.5 wheels in 5x114.3 and cant afford to buy wheels but i do have the time to experiment with drilling front hubs to the different stud pattern

Just ordered so hopefully have it done on the weekend till then have just painted it black lol blends into the shadows. Also managed to setup my Turbosmart E-Boost 2 today and that is an AMAZING bit of kit i love it im running 10.5psi currently will go to about 12 soon but just want to bump it up gradually let the computer relearn and not just it too fast an kill something and just going from stock 9psi to 10.5 is amazing haha alot more livley and because im able to open the gate later its hitting 10psi at like 2.5K haha

Shouldnt be allowed near a lathe! Cheers dude i work in a fabrication workshop and i use a lathe and mill a fair amount so thanks for that vote of confidence. Im sorry that im not the smartest cookie in the class and im sorry that to you this was asking a stupid question but my issue was the fact that when you measure opposing studs you never actually measuring a circle. The information that you have kust given is what i have been trying to find. So thanks guys i appreciate being told that i have no idea. I may not be able to explain what im after well but im sure not an idiot like you guys are assuming so thank was joining this forum hoping for help from members not what i seem to have gotten

This is how u can measure to get an idea if u have 5x100,5x114, 5x120 etc....

I inderstand pcd guys. I can tell the difference between my bmw wheels and my skyline wheels and that the bmw is 5x120 and nissan is 5x114.3 so what i want to do is fit the skyline wheels to the front of the bmw and that means that the studs dont meet up yes the centrebore measurement is the same so thats fine but im not loading up studs and just ratling them on that just asking for failure. What im trying to workout is if you get a sheet of metal and scribe out a circle what does the diameter have to be to meetup with the holes on a 5x114.3 stud pattern. Doesnt matter i have answered the question myself lol and ill update this as i do the wheel hub. So this is a 114 diameter circle and that goes through the cross section of each stud so ill clock up the hub in the lathe to the centre bearing mount then come out and spin a line in it at 114.3mm diameter and then split it into 5 sections so i can then drill the hub. Hopefully its starting to make abit more sence now

I understand pcd and that the rough way to measure is from outer of one stud the the centre of the adjacent stud but that doesnt actually give you the diameter so for a 5x114 the studs arent actually in a 114mm diameter circle? Im confused its too late lol ill grab the verniers tomorrow and have a play