rcs_888

Hey guys, ill start by saying that im from adelaide so please dont flame me if any of this is incorrect lol but are interstate people able to come over for the SAU Vic motorsport rounds? ive been eagerly awaiting to come over and drive sandown and the october round is something that i may be able to actually make it to. i havent been able to find out much info as to when sandown has just general practice track days so if someone could steer me in the right direction that would be awesome. cheers

Well fuel system has been rejigged so hopefully now wont have any fueling issues Same surge tank and pump just a much larger filter and feed hose. Its 1/2" feed to the filter and the pump and the filter is 300mm long so a whole lot better than the tiny panel filter i had... Have also pulled off all the vac lines and replaced them with new stuff so hopefully yhis time around will be abit more consistent!!

Check your inbox

Hey dude i have one in adelaide shoot me an offer

Well next track day is the 9th of April so the back end of the car is back together and i have now replaced all the boost/vac lines as i had a couple fail on the trackday so replaced them all. Now my new fuel filter has arrived im going to be remaking the fuel system and hopefully having no more fueling issues. Will hopefully get to start planning the fuel system this weekend if i get some spare time

Oh look the 3.0 isnt a huge priority, i just like that its going to be a tractor out the corners, not going to need to stress the motor at all to get the power/torque i want and if its shits one interstate jump on gumtree and i could find another one thats not gonna run me into the 1k region. The 25 neo in there atm is making 250 and we could bump it to 300 but i reckon we will lose the drivability of it to a certain degree where the 30 would hopefully be abit more deivable

Too easy buddy, The engine isnt a big priority at the moment the stock neo in the car isnt wound up too much so hopefully it will last me the year. As for the 30 have been talking to a work colleague and he is thinking just from a budget build stand point were going to have a go at keeping stock rods and modified stock pistons.. saves us around 2k so were going to take out the stock 30 pistons and chuck them in the lathe and take off the crown and either make them just a flat top or put a slight dish into them pending the piston has enough thickness in the top to allow for it. then were going to have to bolt it all down and checkout if we have room for valves on the stock pistons. So its going to be abit of dicking about but the idea is the fact that the most likley part to fail is going to be the bottom end so if we can keep that part as cost effective as possible that will be a massive bonus as it means that i can have 2 spares sitting in the trailer if something happens and im not going to have 3k invested into each. We will have maybe 300 in bearings, another maybe 100 in linishing and we can bottle brush the bores and jam a new set of rings in so each bottom end will be in the vicinity of $700 i reckon and were only aiming for 300-350rwkw and will probs have the limiter set to 7500 so i dont think that we should have too much of an issue but at the end of the day its all test it and see. If it doesnt work we will maybe have to go for a built bottom end but i just think that everyone has in there mind that everything needs to be "BUILT" and were going to test that theory

the plan is to have the oil cooler in the rear of the car in the diffuser so will have airflow over it. Its all good anyway guys my question was answered today anyway lol

I have a filter between engine and dry sump pump and another filter between the pump and the tank and thats all on the scavenge side then a filter on the pressure side of the pump between pump and engine so 3 filters all up

Currently its looking like im going to be running Spool H Beam rods, Ross Pistons and Cometic HG. But im going to be emailing cometic and seeing if they can do the .051" gasket in a 4 layer instead of the 3 layer and im going to be running RB26 ACL Race Main bearings as they provide abit better oiling to the bottom end. Also opening up the head drain backs, Main bearing oil feeds and cutting a groove in the block for the main bearings. The Neo head from what i have read is 5cc smaller in the chamber so im going to be getting the 8.5:1 pistons from ross for the normal rb25/30 build and it just means they will run at about 9:1 because of the smaller chamber you could just run a thicker HG but im going to be running E85 so thats a fine CR only thing that im still unsure about is the reliefs in the pistons as the Neo has .6mm more lift on the cam so thst will be a suck it and see what happens. Would like to go for all alot better products but realistically everything that im getting is good gear just not top of the line

Well the new cradle bushes were well and truly worthwhile! I had measured all the suspension locating points as the car came off the track and the new bushes have lifted it up 20mm so have now dropped the car 20mm and have all the original suspension geometry i had but with a lower CG Blue is before alloy bushes and red it once fitted and now i have lowered the car and now have the blue measurements again. YAY have also measured up the whole front end So now technically can drop the front 20mm aswell and redrill the piviot points so that should give me a good starting point. Im thinking im going to make the castor arm point adjustable in height so can play around with settings

Bringing this back from the dead abit but you guys had a fairbut of knowledge on the dry sumps. Obviously pump at the front tank at the back. How would i go having an oil filter on the scavenge line in the boot then a cooler then into the tank? or is it best to have the cooler and filter closer to the motor?

Just realised i havent posted much on here in regards to side projects for the car... I have been collecting lots of bits and pieces for the car to go on over the 2016 season and hopefully have it ready to compete in SS for 2017. So for starters. We have a set of Pirelli slicks from the porsche GT3 series going onto the car (can pickup sets for $200 with 1 race weekend) so going to need to dial in all the suspension to run proper slicks. Also brakes will be getting upgraded this season Tilton pedal box Alcon CAR9700 6 pot monoblock calipers With a R35 GTR 380mm rotor inside. Also the new engine is underway and we will be going to a 30/25 combo so we can have a nice torque curve and get some nice corner exit power. Plan is fully forged bottom end, stock head with some custom cams, springs and retainers BUT we will be keeping the VCT and dry sumped So will keep everyone updated on that as we go for it this year. Am currently going to be Using Lewis Engines in adelaide for the engine internals and machining unless someone knows someone and there willing to throw some stickers on the car

How did your build go mate? Im doing pretty much the same build rb30 base and neo head

Hmm yeah i didnt think about the ratio of the stock pedal... hmm might have to wait till yours is done

Do you know what master cylinder size your going to be going with? I have the underhung reverse mounted tilton pedal box im thinking about getting a pair of 15/16 and pair of 1" masters. The bm44 is 15/16 and the bm50 is 1" and i know that my alcons have a slightly larger piston area than the r34 gtt calipers. What route are you thinking of going?

Cheers dude. Well all the solid mounts are in the diffs back in the cradle and cradle is back in the car. So been a busy ass day Also made myself some shade Strung out a tarp so i wasnt cooking

Busy day on the car today. Subframes out and welding reinforcements are in Now onto the solid diff bushes and solid cradle bushes. They have been in the freezer all week waiting so should be nice n cold!

hey guys, chasing some 75mm bolt on flares for an r34 ive looked all over google and everything but cant seem to find anyone that does R34 specific flares. Does anyone know if R33 flares will fit? cheers

380 rotors inside an 18x10.5

Wow okay so turns out i had forgotten about this thread for a while have just been flatout starting a new job trying to get my business off the ground and just generally flat out! Well Feb 13th there was a test and Tune day out at Mallala (My Local Track) so i busted my ass into gear and got cranking on the car. Left on the list was: Tune Wheel alignment side windows rear window seat harness tidy up some wiring naca duct add in some extra sensors etc. so i managed to get it all done just in the nick of time and we got out there for our first test day since i started with the crazyness well the car was amazing! we only had silly little issues, we kept blowing off the boost line to the Wastegate so kept getting 17psi boost spikes and then towards the end of the day was having fuel issues and i have mounted the fuel pump too high in relation to the surge tank so moved the tank at the track up abit higher and that fixed that issue the found that the fuel filter was too restrictive so pissed that off too and we had no issues from there so that was nice and in the final session i managed to finally get some decent laps in. Lots of work still to do but now its mainly suspension setup and the driver needs to learn to drive abit better. So the rear subframe is now out and taking out the stock bushes and going to the alloy solid mounts and solid diff mount so we can set the cradle up higher and get some better arm angles then later will start mucking about with lowing the front castor rod to give it some extra anti-dive and give the back some extra squat as i was struggling with corner exit grip but we will start experimenting with that now once we have abit of a more consistent car engine wise.

i dont know what the wheel centre to guard height is but currently the rear lower arm mount is 170mm off the ground and the front lower pickup is 210mmwith the wheel joint at 180mm so thats where my lower arm is at on the rear slightly more important than the wheel center to guard height as alot can vary that like im now lifting the cradle to the body with solid bushes so i will have a lower body height with the same suspension arm angles keeping my RC where it was with slightly lower CG

Im possibly biased but alcon brakes and big rotors

I know mostly the reason why it is struggling with rear grip and i do believe it to be due to too stiff springs in the rear end. I have taken a heap of weight out the car and still running the same springs so i have softer springs on order so that i can get some more weight transfer. Unfortunately i struggle putting RC calcs in the bin because they seem too hard. I know how to do RC calcs on MacPherson Struts, 4 links etc its purely the fact that the lower arm on the R34 incorporating the squat into it means that the lower arm pickup on my car is actually 15mm lower at the rear pickup than the front so do you use the front height or the rear height? The top is simple and you can disregard the Traction arm from your RC calcs as it is there to dial out the bump steer. At the moment i have lock collars in the bushes and im going to be dropping the cradle soon and machining up some billet mounts to lift the cradle to the body so i can drop the CG and have a smaller Roll Couple so i can have less bar on it

Hey Guys, As above I have been building my R34 GTT for the past 12 months i went and did a couple of track days and got hooked so did some suspension upgrades etc then pulled the car and did a full build. Just got out again last weekend and have been battling with rear grip on corner exit. Currently the car is siting relatively high all round and all the lower arms are sitting nice and level. I am now looking at lowering the car all round but after looking over the rear suspension i am struggling to workout the rear roll centre so hoping someone can help me out. Im not too sure if im overthinking it but as the rear lower arm has squat built in the front pickup is higher then the rear mount so what one do you use as you RC line and then does the traction rod have any effect on the RC too? Currently im going to be getting some softer springs made up as i have stripped the car so i think that im just not getting enough weight transfer to get it to squat to get the grip but wanting to just drop the height aswell. Cheers guys BTW: before someone says use the search I have been trying to search everywhere but noone seems to actually explain the relationship f the arms to the RC and Risking seemed to know his shit but something has happened and he no longer seems to be active and the same with SK so hopefully someone else could help me out please.