amnash

could someone explain or show a picture or where the suction temp sensor is actually located. mine is stuffed

so ive had a play around with the diagnostics. and i got code 25,26,27 not worried about 25 becasue it was cloudy out. 26 is the mixing door and 27 is refrigerant temp sensor(removed air conditioning) so i think 25 and 27 can be completley ruled out? and 26 being the mixing door makes sense. did a sensor inspection and outside temp was 23 inside temp was 21 (was only like 14 out but not too off i suppose..) the suction temp was -30 though! and same with refrigerant temp(but im guessing becasue air con was removed correct me if im wrong). so if i fix the suction air temp sensor maybe that would fix the mix door code? i think i read somewhere can be fixed by just taking the sensor out and putting in a certain sized resistor? anyone have a picture showing where suction temp sensor actually is?

well i dont have the sensor anymore.. lol i placed it on my workshop table and i have check EVERYWHERE its like a little fairy came in and walked out with it or something.. anyways i dont have one anymore. ive been driving it without it installed and i only notice the difference when at idle and its a little lumpy unresponsive. no way to trick it to think its there with a resistor or something?

so ive actually misplaced the sensor. and the car is definitely running weird now. has anyone actually fixed this so the sensor doesnt have to be there at all?

begining of build was rb20 which was blown and swapped in rb25 neo. so this sensor is pretty import for performance/reliability of engine? i changed the spark plugs and removed this at the same time and now its seems to have lost thottle responce/idles weird. ill have to find another one then to replace it since the nipple where vaccuum line connects has broken off

so had the skyline out on a drivers permit for a weekend and noticed under WOT it seemed to almost stall for half a second and jerk etc and the turbo sounded like it was almost spooling up way to easy and just sounded off.. so i figured i would change the plugs and gap them to 0.8mm while changing them i found that the boost sensor at the back of the engine (pretty sure its a r34 thing) well the nipple was busted off so i knew that was a boost leak and probably causing all the problems. anyone know the purpose of it? its not hooked up at all right now and the vacuum nipple is capped

sensors are all hooked up, but arcon still does not work though. i cant control the damn thing, sometimes its hot when i selected cold and sometimes its cold when i select hot. it sucks in the mornings when i go out to let it warm up a while by letting it run with heat blasted and when i go back out its like a refrigerator

stripped it down as far as checking the main bearings. wanted to try everything before complete tear down. i made this video with all the clips and stuff i took along the way. trying to get into movie editing and this was a nice little project. its only the second movie ive done so far.

Engine/Car: R32 gts rb20det Type of failure: spun #1 rod bearing Factors influencing the failure: oil temps got up to 280 degrees F on highway State of tune of the engine: everything oem spec Suspension and tyres: Oil used and service interval: non synthetic still breaking in General comments: purchased greddy oil cooler after

small update. main caps were removed and everything seems fine, a bit of wear on bearings but oil clearances were still good. gave all the rods a tap with a rubber mallet and they all seem fine no movement. took the intake manifold and exhaust manifold off to look at the valves from behind and they all look new, no damage. did a leak down test and this is what i got: #1 - 4% #2 - 7% #3 - 9% #4 - 9% #5 - 8% #6 - 4% bolting everything back together and gonna just start it up and see how it goes. put my spare turbo on, new timing belt, tensioner/stud

ok, so im gonna unbolt the girdle and check out the bearings and plastigauge then bolts it back on if all is good. would I be able to one at a time, do same thing with the rods? at least that way bottom half of all bearings will get a look(better then nothing) and I'll plastigauge them too, and use red threadlocker when putting rods back together. EDIT: never mind, fsm says rod bolts need 60~65 angle wrench so theyre stretch. ill just check the mains.

its not the block adapter that was wrong. check where the central line from each picture connects to the filter block.

ok so ive found out why it wouldnt run. the timing belt has jumped 4 teeth on the exhaust cam. with the oil pan removed, all the rods look good and feel solid so im happy about that. the timing belt had one tooth that was cracked and looked like it folded over (was new belt). so now i have to try figure out what happened. i can turn both cams by hand and both tensioner and idler pulleys look fine. gonna do a leak down test while the cam covers are off to double check the valves again (had 180 compression on all 6 but exhaust cam was off by 4 teeth) and the milky off looking oil, to check that gonna pressurize coolant system and look for leaks. The exhaust cam must have seized up for a second.. something to do with the momentary oil starvation maybe?? im just glad the bottom end looks ok i didnt actually remove the girdle though to check the bearings, just made sure the rods where still nice and tight on the crank. should i unbolt the girdle and check out the bearings and if all looks good just bolt back on? can i reuse main bolts? any ideas why the belt would jump like that?

can anyone say if these parts will work with the rb25 arp rod bolts 202-6007 http://www.frsport.com/ARP-202-6007-Nissan-RB26DETT-Rod-Bolt-Kit_p_27104.html and im stuck between two sets of piston rings, are they the exact same? (nissan says theyre both bad part numbers) 12033-AA110 (neo specific) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-12033-AA110-OEM-Piston-Rings-RB25DET-86mm-RB25-R34-NEO-RB-/181049104079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a275e16cf&ssPageName=RSS:B:STORE:US:101 12033-21U10 (regular rb25) http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-OEM-Piston-Rings-Set-RB25DET_p_18630.html if i can use the rings from frsport would be nice because im getting gasket kit from them and bolts so ill ask for discount or free shipping

have a closer look. the block adapter is rotated 180 degees between the two images the lines connecting to filter block from engine are backwards

im asking for advice. its on two forums though, and was asked to take a compression test so rule anything else out. could use some advice on how to pick the right size bearings what are the clearance specs for the rod and main bearings?

ok I found the piece of paper with the compression test from the install. it was more like 170 on all 6 cylinders. just tested now and its like 180 on all six even one 185. its like the rings were still sealing. I think the kms were under 50000 km it looked so clean/stock. such a.shame. prepping engine for removal now.

to determine if i need a line hone, can i just install new bearings and crank, torque to spec, and rotate the crank? if if turns nice and evenly smooth it means no line hone needed? or more in depth then that? also, is it ok to install then remove the bearings a couple times torquing things down to check for clearances?? i was thinking you wanted to avoid dissembling of bottom end once thing are torqued down..or can you assemble, dissemble, reassemble as many times as you want and things will be ok?

if i take the head off, can i still just reuse the piston rings since it had great compression? or will it miss align everything and ill get bad compression after they move

This is what happened: did some work on the skyline (oil cooler filter relocation, rad hoses and power steering lines) and wanted to start the engine and bleed coolant and let it idle for a while to get oil through the cooler etc. so engine was running for a good 10 mins water was up to temp and was trying to get the rear speakers to work while it ran(another story) and all of a sudden the engine stalls and there's a slight bang... try to start it again and it just wont start.. the video below is me trying to start with WOT and while cranking there is a knocking coming from turbo side. first i thought the power steering pump was siezed becasue the previous day i started it up and the pump sucked the reservoir dry filling the new line, soon as i noticed i shut down got some fluid topped it up today before starting and was fine for the first 10 mins. removed PS belt and issue remained. the oil i put in was 5w40 amsoil, i know its a bit thick. but the temp was about 5 degrees was thinking maybe the oil was too thick to reach some parts of engine causing seizing somewhere?? maybe to thick for turbo lines?? .. i hope not. during the first 10 minutes of running the oil didnt was up that much either(the gauge didn't even move yet, gauge starts at 140F) could installing the oil cooler filter reloc. lines backwards F things up? (im pretty sure they're installed correctly, used greddy's diagram) heres video sorry for sound quality, balanced gopro on some wood leaning against car and it rattled a bit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULGAYoCGVVw&feature=youtu.be BETTER VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdcyImDYfT4&feature=youtu.be the diagram i used clearly shows the exact opposite of what youre manual shows... im so F**king pissed.. i dont understand why there would be two different diagrams.. i will switch the lines around and see what happens.. but if the filter acted as a check valve preventing oil getting back into the enging its probably f*cked the bearings.. fml whom ever made that false diagram needs a bullet to the side of there head anyone have an explanation to what actually happened inside the engine? was running fine for 10 minutes the a bang then rod knock and simply wouldnt start. i need help figuring out what bearings. going through acl bearing catalog ive found the rb25det but i thought the neo was a bit different and had rb26 rods? so do i go with the rb26 rod bearings? luckily the main bearings apear to be the same between the rb20,25,26 so that makes it easy. just looking for some concrete information on what rod bearings to get. next is the bearing sizes. the std. size bearings dont acually say what size they are.. so the plus 0.025,0.25,or 0.5 means added on top of what value?? if you follow the link at the top there's a more detailed desription of what happened. and explains why this build is basically trying to get the engine back to the state it was in the fall(no spun bearing) so if there is a way to change the bearings say without removing the head (i had 160 compression on all 6 so i think i shouldn't have to if possible) or any other advice to just keep this build budget frendly and fast would be awesome. the engine is 100% stock.

anyone? pics of how youre cooler is mounted?

hey everyone, so i have a greddy oil cooler/filer relocation that i bought used without any brackets or anything. im wondering where the best place to mount it is, and what brackets i should make. im thinking the best place would be under the battery behind the bumper, mounted on its side so i can drain oil out when doing oil change could also set up some ducting too. what you your guys mounting solutions look like ?

i have both. but it still bugs be that its completely dead.

so ive done a rb25 neo swap into my hcr32. and now the oil pressure gauge does not work. its plugged in. i didnt have to touch any of that wiring when i wired up the engine either so i figured it should work. is there a bit of wiring that needs to be done?? or is the sender maybe stuffed?

just toying around with some ideas for the interior of the car and what to do with my aftermarket gauges. and i was thinking the best look would be to use a oem gtr triple gauge (the oem located above the cd player and the air control) is it possible to take the oem triple gauge and remove the gauges inside and then remove the bezels off three autometer gauges and install them inside the unit? i think this would provide a super clean look but a lot more modern. basically its just using the oem bezel with three autometer gauges. possible? has anyone ever done/seen this before? if so please provide a link or some pics what is the size of the gauges inside the oem unit? my autometers are 52mm.