JordansR32

Rb25 s1 motor in r32 shell Gt3076 .73 rear housing Ext gate of rear housing Standard ex and intake manifold Un opened motor Split fire coilpacks Xspurt 1400cc injectors with top feed rail 3 litre surge and x2 external pumps Caltex eflex fuel Standard airbox 3inch exhaust Adaptronic ecu Around 20 psi 326kw at the wheels daily driven Tuned by guiltoy

A similar thing happened to me before, one of the injector clips had come loose and looked like it was on the injectors but was just off and wasn't making contact.

Oh yer true, umm don't know of the top of my head but I'm thinking that there is leeway there.

What do you mean on how it was tuned? With the fuel maps etc?

I do have flex fuel sensor sniffer what ever you want to call it, the ecu has dual maps from 98 and eflex, so can't use either of them with what ever in the tank, just wasn't sure about e85 because it wasn't tuned on that

There is no e85 close by, probaly about 30-40 minutes away, but there is eflex one 10 minutes from my house, thats more the reason behind it. Only asking coz there seems to be more and united coming up around the place

I'm after some infomation, my car was tuned on caltex eflex, will I be able to use united e85 in my car if I ever wanted to, if I was around no eflex, and would it drive and perform as normal? I know caltex say the E% varies from 70-85 and they change it to suit the Seasons of the year, and united % is gaurnteed more, would the difference in e% change the way it performes?

Well the car is still a street car so I was trying to keep the "factory" looking engine bay, but guess i have gone well past that now haha, doesn't help when I have the external wastegate on the rear housing sticking straight up haha. But yea, FFP is on the cards eventually

That was me, it was quite a hassle in fitting them and mucking around but worked out in the end. Ok. The spacers where to long had to be machined down. Had to take out the idle control had to be taken out because it was hitting the rail. The o-rings in the bossers had to be changed to smaller so the bossers could fit in the inlet manifold. The o-rings on the end of the injecters that go in to the bossers had to be changed so they would not leak as well. Thats what feedback I got from the guy who I got to install them, just some feed back

Usually most kits that come as a no hole kit don't replace to stock black pipes, only meet up to them. Same as for the stock cross over pipe they generally meet up to the end of that cross over, but as the picture above there are kits to replace it. Just keep it looking stock is the best look.

Why did u have to cut that wire? When I did the hicas removal on my 32 pulled all hicas out completely but didn't touch the hicas ecu, everything seems fine.

Does anyone have any omori gauges for sale? After oil pressure, oil temp and water temp?

What do you mean by hot spots? Radiator not cooling efficiently?

Yea went over everything, coolants been flushed many times, bled properly, new radiator and cap, new water pump, pressure tested system with a proper tested, no drop in pressure, even comp tested motor with 170psi across all cyclinders, so I'm gonna give thermos a go, some people love them some people don't, I think a lot of people just hook them up wrong or get cheap and nasty ones.

I have had the same troubles with over heating, after a good flogging of the car would get pretty hot, hotter than it usually has, investigated more and found a coolant leak, fixed that, tested again, same thing was happeing again, found another coolant leak, finally fixed the last coolant leak, took the car for a drive and it still is getting hot after like 5 minutes of skidding, the only thing I can out it down to is the standard fan, I had to chop about 2 inches off it to clear the cooler pipe, still had stock shroud and aftermarket radiator. Just brought some thermos gonna install them on the weekend and see how that goes with the temps, I'm hoping that this fixes the overheating issues!