Warpspeed

Have to agree, stick them in and later when you have your FC and a few other goodies spend the money on a decent dyno tune. These two magazine articles, do they give before and after valve timing figures, and if so could someone please post them ? Stock factory 32/33GTR inlet cam opens 7 BTDC, closes 57 ABDC exhaust cam opens 63 BBDC, closes 7 BTDC (BTDC is correct) The stock settings have zero valve overlap.

Yeah thats the problem. There is a lot of messing about, and it is time consuming. You also need to make absolutely sure there are no valve/piston mishaps as well.

Actually that makes a lot of sense. Especially retarding the exhaust cam. But as I said earlier you need a plan. You also need to spend money on tuning to get it right. There seems to be the mistaken impression around, that merely fitting adjustable cam gears will automatically make more power.

As yourself two questions. What is the current valve timing of your engine. What is wrong with it, and why will changing it improve anything. If you have a definite plan, fair enough. But just making something adjustable is not going to create a miracle. If you are doing it to dress up the engine, fair enough. They are a good loking piece of gear.

After reading your instructions for resetting the airbag computer, it sounds like some sort of occult spell. Does this work anytime, or does there have to be a full moon ?

Let me get this straigt. You roll up to a caryard with a fist full of dollars, and they tell you to piss off coz you havent got insurance ? That is the strangest thing I have ever heard.

The only way I could fit a decent intercooler into my 4WD turbo laser was to move the radiator back three inches. This meant the standard electric radiator fan had to go. I then fitted a decent sized intercooler core in front of the radiator, and mounted a pair of electric fans in front of the intercooler. This works really well, without any problems. The fans cool both the intercooler and radiator.

Now guys, I have this all figured out for an afternoons fun. You get into your old clapped out forty year old VW, and drive around to a Hyundi dealer and ask for a test drive. You then take the brand new Hyundi around and park it in front of a Ford dealer. Ask to test drive a basic V8 family car, and then drive this around to a friendly Holden dealer. Ask for a little drive of one of their optioned up 300KW HSVs. Then around the corner to the Ferrari dealer.................

I suggest you read Turtles first post, and then your response to the thread. Secondly I have my own spectrum analyser, oscilloscope, and sound level meter at home. At work we have a full sound and vibration laboratory. See sound ? Easy.

Always ?????? How can a new pod always make the exhaust louder? Please explain, I have never seen this effect.

Only a guess, but sometimes they use fibreglass in mufflers, and sometimes steel wool. The fibreglass can break up and gradually spew out the back in small pieces, causing an increase in noise. It happened to me once. Have a look underneath for leaks, and if you cannot see anything obviously wrong, I would suspect your shiny new muffler.

Actually the hot wire flowmeters have two heated wires. One is in still air, and the other in the moving airstream. Airflow is the difference in temperature between the two wires. That way ambient temperature changes cancel out. But I think you are right. Placing the flowmeter after the turbo will give sudden extreme spikes in temperature that would probably cause large short term errors in reading the airflow. A flap type flowmeter might be better, but high boost pressure may burst it !

happens to me all the time. Sometimes its finger trouble, sometimes its spelin, and sometimes I just have a brain fart.

You sure that thing has a hair dryer ? I thought the Japanese manufacturers were not allowed to make anything that has more than 208Kw.

Hey Joe, sorry about the PVC, finger trouble with the keyboard again !

You could also try advertising it on the web. Try here: http://www.carsales.com.au

With the miracle of money, all things are possible my son.

Hi scotty. Do not forget the R33 GTS-4. These things are rather rare, I am after a manual one myself at the moment. The GTS-4 is 4WD like the GTR, and has LSD and ABS as standard, unfortunately they only comes with the normally aspirated RB25DE engine. BUT if you want lots of roadholding and traction at half the price of a GTR they are an absolute bargain. Quite a few people have fitted a turbo to these, to produce a real low cost road rocket. They have the identical super strong gearbox and diffs as the GTR, and with all the same ratios as well. While you can fit a turbo to a GTS-4, it would be all but impossible to fit 4WD to a GTST. GTS-4s and GTSTs are typically about the same price. (hint) I believe PVAs R33 GTS-4 auto is up for sale at the moment, but dont let him know I said so.

Sorry to hear about your situation White-R33. I do not see any reason why someone could not borrow the extra three grand if they really want this car, because it is well worth the price asked in my opinion.

Sounds like a very sensible upgrade to me. Go for it !

If it was me I would go out and buy a brand new or slightly used ball bearing turbo. There are a lot of myths and BS about concerning the high flowing of turbos. The old style garrett turbos T2, T25, T28, T3, TO4, and so on are at least thirty year old designs now. Hell, I was using them 30 years ago, and they were not new designs then. There is nothing really wrong with them, except the peak efficiency and flow ranges are not as good. The wheels are also larger and heavier than new designs. BUT THEY ARE CHEAP, and if you are on a budget go ahead and have some fun. Both compressor and turbine wheels tended to be larger diameter, and skinny, with smakller a/r housings. This means the flow range is less, making matching much more critical. They can still make a lot of power though, make no mistake. Fast forward thirty years to today. The fact that ball bearing turbos have ball bearings is not the main feature that makes them so good. This point is not generally understood. What is so good about them is thirty years of computer design simulation technology. The wheel sizes and blade technology is far superior. If you look at modern turbo wheels the major diameter is smaller, and the eye size is larger. The new wheels are fatter, weigh less, and have far less inertia. Housing sizes now typically have far higher a/r than the old designs, and a far greater flow range, and better peak efficiency. But the real trick is that the turbines and compressors are better matched for speed and energy. This combined with low inertia is what makes them spool up so fast, and deliver high airflow as well. All good stuff. If you think you are smarter than Garrett, or HKS, and can combine bits and pieces from various thirty year old turbos to build yourself a high flow hybrid - well the best of luck. Personally I would not be bothered. Just go and buy yourself a modern ball bearing unit, and be really happy with the results.

Yeah. The only reason I mentioned that I lived close, is because I pass it every day going to work, and sometimes stop to have a look at what they have in stock. Would never buy one from them though, too many stories...........

I have read through what you said a few times, and cannot disagree, I think we are looking at the same problem from a different angle. For instance you say when you go up a gear the power to the wheels drops because engine RPM drop. Quite true, I had never really thought of it quite like that. And as you say if the torque curve is (almost) flat, then the torque at the wheels will drop because the reduction ratio through the gearbox is less in the higher gear. It is really saying the same thing but looking at it from a different perspective. When gearing a competition car for maximum performance it is the power curve that is most important. Gearchange points should be either side of the maximum peak power point so maximum area through the power curve can be used in each gear. The torque multiplication through the gearbox will be maximum under these conditions in each gear, giving greatest acceleration. If you only rev it to the engine torque peak at the same road speed, you will be in a much higher gear, and actual acceleration will be less.

Well jim your half right. I still say torque = acceleration. Which gear gives the greatest rate of acceleration, first gear or top gear ? Why ? Tractive effort is what accelerates the vehicle. Now if you want to talk about the fastest way to cover a certain distance, that is different thing altogether. What you need is the HIGHEST AVERAGE SPEED to cover a given distance in the shortest possible time. For this you need high power, because time becomes an important part of the problem. So yes, high power is the most significant factor in getting a low ET, or high terminal speed. So power = speed.

A driver with a lot of natural talent, even on a skateboard can easily beat a formula one car. Any complete fool knows that.