goes back to what I posted, taking the rb25 vct cam out and fitting a non vct cam in its place (usualy to suit rb20's) you have to dial it in 10 degres or more advanced to bring it into top dead centre.
fitting a non vct cam into 25's require 10+ degres advance dialed in to get it to tdc I beleive?
agree with your advice they will work fine for the time being on a stock turbo
this is a back to back comparison AMS did on an evo showing how nice the kelford/camtechs match to stock
http://highboostforum.com/forum/showthread.php/24193-Ams-evo-cam-test-5-6-08
no valve spring upgrade needed up until you go solid lift cams like Roy said
I had HKS 9mm 264 cams in my rb20 but if I was to do it again I would use camtech 264's 9mm lift
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/niss_6cyl_rb20rb25nonvct.html
My evo isn't far off that with a .63 and vp109
cosworth 2.2 stroker kit billet crank option
full port polish 1mm oversized valves big cams standard intake plenum and throttle body
6 boost manifold tial 44mm standard off the shelve .63 GT35 from garrett 3inch dump pipe 3 inch exhaust
plazmaman cooler
2x 044 2x -8 feeds to sard rail 1000cc inj -8 return via PFI reg
29psi boost
brand new garrett T04Z with a divided T4, .70 V flange rear housing, V clamp and flange to join a dump pipe included
$1950 delivered anywhere in Aus
0411 811 231
Adam
thats in an ideal world 100% right
but if the boost pressure spikes, you can have the different part of the map it will go into tuned for less timing and more fuel as a safety
if your afm's are maxed out they will always read the same axis.
not really fun driving a car that comes on boost stupid late and leaves you with no power band.
3582 will make the power theres lots of rb30s with over 500hp on them and it will be very nice to drive
using rb25 afms is a cheap way out and not really that effective..
32 gtr running a single gt3582r maxed out the afm voltage at 20psi boost, that means they read 100% air flow either tho the turbo was still sucking in more. you cant put a HP or KW rating on them as such because you can keep tuning the ecu at 100% afm reading it just becomes a very basic tune.
if you use z32 afm's then they will accurately read past 20psi.
personaly I would use a MAP sensored ecu instead even if you run twin turbos
if you dont end up with atleast 550hp atw with that combo, your not trying hard enough haha
thats from my evo with a 2.2 stroker and gt35 .63 rear housing..
thats the 2nd motor ive seen these cams in that have made a difference.
It could be possible Roys might have been installed with the wrong dial in or a tooth out on a gear.
I didn't say factory cams cant be improved with adjustments. but aftermarket cam's WILL result in greater gains.
the above dyno sheet doesn't show the torque curve, that was the most impressive part with the curve staying alot more broad across the rev's
heres a pic of a back to back comparison stock vs HKS 260 9.0 cams
motor is stock standerd with a GT30R .63, xs power high mount manifold, EMS stinger ecu and gtr injectors.
cams DO HELP dont listen to those that say they are a waste on the rb20's
purchased these on a group buy befor I sold my car
only 10 set's made and a 6+ month wait.
unlike all the aftermarket arm's from japan or anywhere else these pivot in the centre, the main cause for aftermarket arm's flogging out is because they dont swivel with the geometry of the suspension which leads to premature wear
Unique Autosport have developed the final version over many years on their own track Z32 with much succes
they range from 1.5 degres neg to 4-5 degres of negative camber depending on the hight of the car.
$420 + postage
0411 811 231
rough idea of what they look like