AD4M

have you even received the aplication form for it? I rang them today, was told i would receive it later this arvo via fax, got home and nothing is here yet. is there any way of getting a cams licence this week? AFARCC or no limits? I think on the cams aplication a member of a cams affiliated club can sign the form so the licence is valid for 30 days as a form of membership?

cheers Josh when you have the bumper skin off and look at the reo bar bolted to the chasis, you'll notice that the two front bolts on either side bolt through a O shaped cutout, the rear two on either side slide over the bolt with a U cutout in the reo. Just need to make the front O shaped cut out 12mm in length longer so you can slide the reo foward I did it with a die grinder as its alot easier than trying to drill it because of the thickness of the metal..

nah you dont need GTR gaurds to make the front bar sit nicely, simply redrilling/grinding 2 wholes in the GTR reo bar (12mm to be exact) will bring the front bar foward enough to fold the sides of the bumper up to the gaurd leaving no gap and over hang

thanks daniel if i had my way with doing it again i would use the weld on fittings like nick said, alot easier than putting in threaded adaptors like i have and sits the fittings lower, not that clearance is an issue.

like this?

2nd fastest

ok did the measurement , from the top of the bolt going through the engine mount it comes back to 440mm to the highest point of the turbo

I'll do it tomorow arvo after work and post it up tomorow night Cameron

find out what district there from and speak to the snr sargent at the station, sounds like harasment to me.

going to be veeerrrry close to the bonnet mate my gt3040's oil feed JUST clears the strutt bar going over it with alowance for engine movement i've attached an image to give you an idea of how high yours will end up

older version of the cams they only have the duration stamped on them i'm pretty certain they were 9.1 but i could be wrong and didnt measure them befor fitting them. there coming out soon so will try and sus it out

thats gonna be de-comped a fair bit. I was seeing fullboost around 3700 on the tacho in the car in 4th gear it was more like 3500 and limiter is set to 7000 cos there was no point reving it to hard if it wasnt making anymore power.. 82 is large but i wouldnt underestimate it just yet until you try it on the car, swaping the rear housing over if its too laggy isnt a stressfull job so my advice is just try it first looking over your mod list again i wouldnt rule out 400-450hp when leaning on it, swapping the rear housing wont make you loose power, it will just shift the point it takes place

go with a .63 rear and it will be fine, not laggy and not snappy power. my motor with the 3040 .63 and stock internals apart from the fitment of 264 9.1 hks cams made 346rwhp at 22psi on a tired motor. if your going to build the motor im more than confidant you'll make the power easy!

there not the plugs that connect to the door are they? or possibly to the air con heater box

even did the hard work for ya http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...r+injector+rb20

resistor pack wont simply plug in on a gtst as its part of the loom that is where the fuse box is you'll need to hardwire the resistor pack into the engine loom. do a search theres a tutorial on how to do it on a gtst for installing gtr injectors, its the same as fitting it to the 26 in your case

my RB20 best mates RB26

GT3076R would be fine man! not to long ago a dude in perth had his tuned running that turb on a std rb20 with hks cams,plazmaman plenum,6boost mani, turbo smart 48mm gate and all the usual supporting mods and went 358rwhp@20psi... and the way it made the power was so linear and smooth, if i didnt already have the 3040 it definatly would have been my pick! i cant remember for the life of me what rear housing it was but if you need to know more shoot r32rookie on antilag a pm.

ahh yep he's been borrowing the tenagah dyno for a few weeks now, he's very clued on!

nice work dude! did Ant tune it for ya?

oh and best way to fix it is to have the gate almost on the mani or close as possible!

this isnt the first 6 boost manifold i've heard of with this issue. not to slander 6boost's work but i know of a std rb26 running a 6boost mani,tial 44 and gt3582 and it sky rocketed to 24psi every run! the problem lies in the collector where the gate is picked up from.. im confused as to how removing the exhaust will help lower boost, a restriction will SLOW the exhaust wheel down creating less boost pressure.. i speak first hand on that as i've experienced just that with a blocked cat. if you've completly removed the gate and its still boosting then i think you have your answer haha

1 oil feed 4 use the front turb oil drain for the new oil drain, block the other water you get from the head, top rad hose where it goes into the head theres a barb for a hose where the factory turbs feed from.2 is the other end of it back into the block (the turbo doesnt have a in and out its free flowing)

gt3540r with a 63 rear would be reasonable on a 2.2.. my personal recommendation is the garret gt3040r with a .82 rear. on my 20 with hks cams and a .63 rear housed 3040 it makes full boost around 3.5-4k.

ok here we go this is my knowledge the bigger duration you have in a cam the higher you move the power band in the revs, using a small turbo (stock rb25) you would be going backwards by doing that as it will make its most useable power down low in the rev range befor dropping off. by reving the titts off it (mainly cos it can) is a tottal waste of time as your making the power drop off even higher in the rev range. but if you run a larger turbo lets say a gt30r as i am, it wont make incredible down low power but it will peak half way through the revs and keep climbing, so you use your cams to take full advantage of that range and make more power or bring it on slightly earlier with adjusting where the cam takes in its full efect. so to answer mikes question no you dont need stiffer valve springs for the cams, but in your application of turbo its almost a waste installing them as your gonna make the motor work in a way the turbo cant support