AD4M

sr20det rb20det not same, chalk and cheese comparison! read Roys post on valve area to engine size and i think you'll understand a bit more where im coming from. the sr20 will act diferently to an rb20 with modifications. im pretty sure mine are the older style hks cam, bigger than 9.0 im pretty certain there 9.1 but i'll have to do some measurements when we take them out, either way there the biggest lift drop in cams available out of japan for the 20. we set them up at TDC and on the dyno only adjusted the inlet cam 3 degres advance and saw the whole power band shift foward a fair bit. spewing i didnt get that printed out aswell!!

BCP6ES all the way (non resistor type) pre gapped to .8 but for high hp stuff its safe to drop that to .7 especialy on stock coils

yeah id say its tired if there that low, most rb20's in healthy form measure around 160

skyper i think your missing the point, my car has always had the same clutch, so any changes i made i could tell the diference... regardless of the clutch being lighter than stock. i will be installing stiffer valve springs in my new motor, either tho the car didnt suffer audiable valve bounce and only died because of a broken ring land. and mine are bigger than 8.9mm lift Mike you dont have too upgrade them.

injector seal may be leaking coil pack loom could be brittle and causing the coils to loose power (usualy at the plugs they fall apart) inlet mani gasket blown out?

a few changes were made at the same time so no i cant say i have any dyno sheets befor/after the biggest set back on the 20's are the heads everyone knows that, make it breath better and you'll make improvements. throttle response on mine was a huge improvement, but again cams werent the only things that would have aided that skyper- my car has always had a twin plate os giken. and i agree the 256 poncams would be better suited to the turbo.

haha not entirely... thats one persons opinion. i saw good gains with driveability when i did mine. the duration is huge on those cams, but you wont need to do any mods to the head to fit them (i straight dropped in a set of hks 264 9.1mm) personaly i would upgrade the valve springs, i didnt when i put my cams in and never had any problems, but for my new motor i will just to keep everything safe. you will definatly need a new tune! its also worth while fitting adjustable cam gears at the same time and having them dialed in to get the best gains

he worked for cypher then moved to ovaboost and now is doing his own thing. dont think hes worked for rotamotion? but your right lee is a top bloke to deal with and his fabrication is a work of art

theres two plugs from memory, one on the casing of the tps, then theres one that is on a wire underneath it, you want the one on the wire.

befor you pull the injectors out just check the tps is plugged in the right way, i run an ems so the power fc might be entirely diferent, but when i had mine in the wrong way the ecu was getting a reading of 100% throttle and wouldnt start as a safety built in. worth a shot

from the filter into the line that isnt into the fuel reg, so into the line that returns to the back of the rail

buzzing sound would most likely be the cold start valve operating youve definataly got the fuel lines into the rail the right way round? cas plugged in? battery at full voltage?? i know that it will still crank if its down some voltage but wont run. ohh and also check the tps is plugged in. or hasnt been adjusted

they are a 19mm socket and they come with 4 locknuts and a lock key that is also a 19mm end free bump

they did them in midnight blue aswell, a dark metalic finnish. i beleive its the same colour from the 32 range (my 4 door is the same colour) http://www.imports101.com/view.php?car=1721

top work mate! should have let me know you were coming down i would have loved to see the finnished setup get a profec b spec II on it if you havent got an ebc, mick can get it to come on a bit earlier that way. spewin bout the gate being too small, ive heard of 26's with 6boob manis doing the same thing so i can only assume it might be the way the collecter is plumbed? which ecu did you use on it aswell dude?

for a laugh on the weekend we decided to run mine on the dyno to see what would happen, the motor is tired and breathing hard... but we still decided to give her 25psi 366rwhp and afr's that were below 10.0 across the run hahaha, we're still laughing that it held up!!!

you will find anthony (the dyno operator) would rather turn away a car for running a power figure if he feels it could result in a failor while hes in control,let alone in front of a large croud. if it was anything over lets say 14afrs for a fair part of the chart like 500rpm then theres no saying that it wont go beyond that once it hits boost hence why he wont run it up. it isnt the first car to be turned away for it and wont be the last either..

im with simon the comparison would be more along the lines of a gt3582r, my best mates rb26 made 440rwhp@ 18psi with an identical power and tractive effort curve to that last week (metal gasket,tomei pistons,head ported but std cams/no adg gears) nice work Trent

hahah yeah it still runs,cable tied the dip stick in still gets a bit off boost aswell haha the 20 just wont give up in a big way!

its suffering crank case pressure and blow bye so its the rings, on the first time out since the new turb it ran 12.5@113 and shat the motor on the same run. spewing because i was really confident the car had the 11 in it still

too right there, we lean on this thing so hard its crazy its lasted a solid year of 20psi+ of boost haha i honestly cant say yet because i really dont know! we're looking into building the 20 but its going to come down too how much we can squeese out of the 20 head in terms of flow.. probobly have an attack plan in a couple weeks

i have a std inlet plenum,throttle body, cams, gears, springs, the entire motor was unopend and were making 300rwkw! 405rwhp to be exact, lasted over 6 months on that power befor i changed the setup and added cams and a new turbo, it recently gave way haha

actually i could be wrong about the clips, my car came with them already installed, but trimming the keyway is no biggie

you wont find a better way to get optimal boost control, it will literally cut off as soon as the gate opens where most spike then tapper back down looks like a killa setup your peicing together dude, cant wait to see the results

Ive made just over 300rwkw using 440cc gtr injectors on my 20, they clip straight into the original harness and rail, and as its been said if your using the std 32 computer you'll need to get a resistor pack wired into the injector harness