GeeDog

Now sold

Listing here because numerous people have discussed 135i's, M3 / M4's, and BMW 7 speed DCT transmissions. 2009 BMW E92 335i 7 speed DCT Coupe for sale. Car is in space grey with black leather interior, in very good condition. It has done 168,000km, and has been well looked after. It has some tasteful performance mods that improve on the factory power, and combined with the 7 speed DCT it is a very fast car. Brakes are all but new (pads & rotors front & rear), tyres are good, Bilstein shocks all round, 2020 maps on the CIC idrive (which is a huge improvement over the CCC system in pre 2009 versions of this car), SSD drive installed in CIC. Battery was recently replaced. I looked at a lot of E90 & E92 335i's before buying, and this was by far the best I saw. Car is located in Adelaide. Price is $23,000. More photos available on request. Contact via this site or 0418841730.

I have an RB25DET crankshaft, which has been crack-tested and grub-screwed, and also has the extended oil pump drive collar fitted. It is in Adelaide though, and I have no idea how much it would cost to post. It's ready to install (unless you want to get it balanced to your flywheel).

I was going to add a line about not trying to change internals but decided that was too obvious🙂 I wouldn't do it - the setup of a diff is a pretty specialist area.

You can install a complete diff by yourself - you'll need a 50mm open end spanner to undo (and redo) the nut holding the driveshaft to the diff. Some of the underfloor insulation needs to come out to get access, but I've done it (on a 335i) on jackstands in my garage.

Hmm, I've got 2 N series engines (N54 & N55). The N54 has had a new water pump, and a weeping oil pan seal replaced. The N55 has had nothing done other than normal servicing. Both have done north of 150K km. I think the reports of N series issues are somewhat exagerated. Fairly large jump in price as well between N54/N55 and B58 engined cars. Also, don't use Bendix pads....

Ignore the chain, it's holding the gearbox up.

I have an RB25DET block, crankshaft, rods, forged pistons, flywheel and other bits for sale. This is the original block from our series 2 R33 GTST. Some years ago we had low compression in a cylinder, and removed and stripped the engine – we had a broken ring land. The block was taken to our machinist, who cleaned it, bored it .5mm (to 86.5mm), honed the bores, enlarged the oil return holes, decked it, and fitted oil restrictor & block-off as recommended by everyone. New welsh plugs were also fitted throughout. The crankshaft was sent to a crankshaft specialist, who crack tested it (no drugs), drilled out the gallery plugs to clean it, grub-screwed the plugs, and linished it. The girdle and bolts are included. The rods were fine, so nothing was done to them. Because of the broken piston, we bought a set of CP 86.5mm forged pistons. The engine was re-assembled with new bearings, gaskets, seals etc. Not long after this the stock turbo shredded the impellor. We had the turbo rebuilt & hi-flowed by Hypergear, refitted it, and had it re-tuned. Turns out something then went through the engine – we think bits of the old impellor – and scratched the bores. At this point we decided to go RB25/30, so sourced a bottom end and went through the whole process again. The bits for sale are what is left over. The block is in good condition, except for the scratched bores. I have no way to measure if they just need to be honed, or re-bored, but my gut feeling is they need a rebore. Block is a 75T casting. The crankshaft is perfect, and as mentioned above has been grub-screwed. Rods appear to be excellent, but again I have no way to be 100%. Almost new main & big-end bearings are included, and are in their original locations if the buyer wants to re-use them. This motor didn’t run for long at all. Pistons will need to be assessed, but new rings will be needed at least. Pistons have some damage evident. Also included, along with the block, crankshaft, girdle, girdle bolts, forged pistons, rods, main & big-end bearings, are the following items: Harmonic balancer – original, with some cracks showing in the rubber Flywheel including flywheel & clutch bolts Water pump – as new RB25 water pump (we needed a different one on the RB30, one hole is in the wrong place) Oil pickup Rear main seal holder Timing belt idler – again this was new, and wasn’t needed on the RB30 (uses 2 x tensioners instead) Wastegate actuator – pretty sure this is an RB20 10psi actuator, but it was some time ago and I may be wrong. Actuator is stamped ASN79 Coilpack cover I’d prefer to sell everything complete – looking for $600, which I think is a bargain. I’d also (much) prefer local pickup – parts are located in Adelaide’s north-eastern area.

If you don't want a half-assed fix (and I think you don't), and don't have the correct tap, just get a "thread doctor" to come & fix it. They do this for a living, and will either just re-tap it or put in a helicoil. Might cost $100 - $150. On the other hand, if you are just driving on the street, I suspect it would run forever on 4 studs. If you are still doing track days it's a different story.

Are you sure?

No first hand experience, but info on the scheme is available at https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and-transport/registration/conditional-registration/historic-left-hand-drive-and-street-rod-vehicles A list of SA car clubs (appears to not be complete, and doesn't specify if they can do historic rego, but I can't do all the work for you): http://australiancar.reviews/clubs_sa.php

Not interested in a swap, but there is an F30 335i Activehybrid in my family that may be on the market soon. It has some performance mods.....

Had a look at my other RB30 block and it is definately a plug of some sort (ignore the rust, this block has too many holes in it and is out in the weather):

Just had a quick look an the RB30 block in my shed - that hole is either blocked with a solid plug of some sort (not a welsh plug), or it isn't actually a hole, just a slight depression in the casting - it's hard to tell.

As per the title, I need 2 x intake & 2 x exhaust valves to fit an RB25DET from an R33 GTST series 2. In Adelaide would be good, but can pay for postage.

Up till 5 months ago I would have said "no problem, go for it", but this was a stock RB30 piston from a 25/30 in a dedicated track car:

Not sure who makes it - we bought a pair (driver & passenger) off Gumtree about 5 years ago. They are specifically made for an R33 (and maybe 32/34?), and bolt into the original seat mounting holes. They look very similar to Ebay seat mounts

We have one of these in our R33 track car. Had it for around 3 - 4 years, and works fine. Car is driven by 2 not-skinny-or-light drivers. You would also need a mounting bracket of some description. Ours uses a 1 piece bracket that bolts into the original 4 seat mounting holes, but the design of the bracket (and the fact that it's designed to get the seat quite low) means that it isn't a 10 minute job to install or remove - your 330i may be different.

Thanks. Not sure why I had never seen it before this week.

As per GTSBoy, it seems to always be in the way of something I'm reading or want to click on. I'm on a PC, and until a couple of days ago had never seen this popup. I thought it was something new.

Recently I have started getting a very annoying popup in the bottom LH corner of my screen labelled "Popular on SAU" with a preview of a post and post heading - I can't find a way to disable it nd it's giveng me the sh***s. How do I get rid of it?

Thanks - lots of options there. I had considered the last option, and decided that if it was that easy everyone would be doing it, so didn't think anymore about it.

To be fair, you mentioned oil & BMW in the same sentence first. So back on track, what tyres have you found?

I have a BMW, and as much as I love it, I'm very qualified to bash it......

Fixed it for you.