GeeDog

Getting a bit off topic, so I'll keep it fairly brief. MSCASA is a Supersprint. Cars are grouped & gridded by nominated lap time, so the cars around you should be running very similar lap times. Grids are up to 18 cars. It is a standing start, 2 cars (side by side) start together and "drag" to turn 1 - whoever is behind has to yield. The next pair of cars are started a few seconds later, and so on until all cars are moving. No overtaking under brakes (ie into corners) or in corners, but allowed coming out of corners & on the straights. You do 5 laps, then come in. Each group has 4 runs (of 5 laps) for the day. It is a CAMS event, so you need an L2S licence, and need to be member of a CAMS car club. There are firies, ambos & a recovery vehicle present, along with flag marshals & officials. Cars are scrutineed just like any other CAMS event. Timing is done with Dorian transponders (so lap times are recorded to 4 decimal places - ie 1:20.8997. Mobile phone apps usually only accurate to the nearest second), and each driver has to have a Dorian after their first event. Lap times are usually between 1:15 & 1:40. The event is run better than the track days I've been to, & I think it's safer. If you aren't doing anything on the 16th, come out and have a look. Back on topic - if you buy a 380mm kit you may not fit your wheels over it.

T - over 3001cc Modified Also I'd be very surprised if your rims didn't fit over the 8 pot 355mm BBKs from ATTKD/D2 etc. 17's won't fit, but most 18s will. It would be the spoke design that would stop it, if anything.

You haven't said what fluid you are using, or how old it is. It's probably worth starting with a fluid flush, using a decent high-temp fluid (RBF600 as per Duncan's suggestion, or even better RBF660). The other worthwhile upgrade is ventilation - get as much air flowing through the brakes as you can. The ATTKD brakes are good - we run the 8 pot / 355mm kit on a similar car & are very happy with it. We've got the stock rear brakes, and have no plans to change them - they are working fine with the 8 pot fronts. I wouldn't bother stuffing around with used Brembos. The airflow & fluid suggestions will still apply with a BBK. How many laps are the sessions you're doing? Have you considered entering a Supersprint at Mallala - the next one is on July 16th. Supp Regs are at Supp Regs - there should be at least 2 R33s running.

Holy shit batman - $70K. Is this a daily driver, a dedicated track car, or something in between? I suggest you bite the bullet now & upgrade at least the injectors. As above - you can sell the ones you have. Did you find the answers about the extended oil pump collar & grub screws in the crank?

A couple of things that I can see: 1. While the crank is being done, get an extended oil pump drive collar fitted. You probably also want the bearing journals linished or machined as needed. You can also get the plugs drilled and tapped, and replace with grub screws, so the oil channels can be cleaned out. (or you can buy a crankshaft with all this work already done - ask me where). 2. While the block is being machined, get the oil return channels drilled larger. Find out if the cylinders need to be re-bored before ordering pistons. 3. Don't buy 550cc injectors - go straight to ID1000's and never have to upgrade them again. 4. Whatever you think it will cost - double it.

If you are running higher than stock boost (or plan to in the future) the silicone intake pipes can suck closed. Consider a solid pipe instead. At low boost it shoule be fine.

You say that you now have 280HP - as inmaniac says you must have a GTT (RB25DET Neo). You want 400HP, I assume measured in the same way as the current 280HP - at the crank. 400HP is around 300KW, and 300KW at the crank is around 220 RWKW. This is quite easy to achieve - a Nistune ECU, decent free-flow exhaust, a front mount intercooler and a tune will get you very close. Getting to 600HP (330RWKW) will take a bit more - high-flowed turbo, injectors & fuel rail, fuel pump, E85. When you get to this level you need to consider the condition of pistons, rings, bores, crank & bearings, rods, oil pump etc.

The sa.gov.au website says "you may sell a defected vehicle provided that it is for the purposes of dismantling or wrecking, and the registration is to be cancelled" - I'd cancel the rego, advertise it as defected, unregistered and for parts, and if someone wants to try and clear the defect it will be their problem.

No way - your starter motor suggestion was before the $20 bet was placed. I'm claiming it as I called him out on his fuel pump comment:) I think I'll buy about 12 litres of E85 (unless the price has gone up again) to run through my fuel pump. Maybe he'll give us both $20...

Woohoo, what should I spend my $20 on?

What has the fuel pump got to do with the engine cranking?

Oil temp sensor questions RB25/30 Hi All, Hoping someone knows a bit more about this than me. We are about to fit an oil temp gauge to our track car - now with a 25/30 motor. We have used the RB30 oil pressure gauge sensor hole in the block (1/8 BSP just behind the oil filter) to run a braided line to the VCT feed in the head (via an elbow and some 1/8 & 1/4 BSP & AN fittings), and the easiest place to put the temp sensor is in this line. I am planning to replace a 1/4BSP joiner with a 1/4BSP T-piece (all female threads), and use a reducer to fit the sensor into the side of the T-piece. The T-piece will be at the block end of the line - as the oil exits the block, not as it enters the head. My question is - how much oil flows through this line feeding the VCT solenoid & into the head? This will determine how much the temperature in this line varies from the oil temp in the engine. I believe that this oil feed also lubes the front cam bushes, so I expect there is continous oil flow through the line - is this correct? Is the oil at this point likely to be the same temperature (or close enough for getting a reasonable indication) as the oil in the engine?

Probably is, but a cheaper option is this If you were interested in the cheaper option, I know where there is a set for sale in SA....

Just built a 25/30, (in an R33 GTST S2) and used the RB30 balancer. We don't have aircon, and the alternator belt & power steering belt lined up perfectly. The RB30 balancer has a V-belt groove for the aircon so wouldn't have worked if we still had a/c on the car.

I sent you a pm

Keeping your cards close to your chest.... I was looking at buying a 370GT in Adelaide, and Sinergy Motorsport showed me one with the Nav & menus converted to English - probably done by the same people that jp2en is representing. I believe they are European based, Russian rings a bell (but I may be getting confused with the 350GT conversion). Cost quoted on a car bought from Sinergy was around $900 - $1000, but (if I remember correctly) it had to be a 2010 or 2011 model or later. Earlier 370GTs couldn't be converted. I don't know how much they charge for a car not bought from them.

Is this the coolant pipe?

I may have this, but I need a better description - have a shit-load of pipes and fittings removed during a 25-30 build & have no idea which one you want. I may also have the intake metal pipe, but I cut something a while ago and it may have been that. Will have a look tonight, but if you get me a better description (or drawing / photo) of the first fitting it would help.

What does the corresponding part of the head look like?

Where are you, and do you need 4 or 5 stud? I have one in SA.

I did the same to an R33 GTST starter last year - bought the brush block set (looked the same as your link) from a local auto electrician & fitted it myself. Works great. I think the part cost around $35.

You could also use a cordless rattle gun - ie an 18V Makita / Ryobi / Milwaukee etc.

Hi Johnny, Do you still have the head studs? Pardon my ignorance, but what is "non-2000"?

If you consider that 4 of the 24 laps were "out" laps (so 1/2 pace to the start line), and 5 of the other 20 laps were on a wet track, the 15 laps at full noise probably used well over 100L/100Km. R33 GTST, highflow, ID1000s, Nistune, E85 etc

I did 24 laps at Mallala yesterday, plus a couple more getting on and off the track. I used around 60 litres of E85, so almost 100L/100Kms.