GeeDog

Assuming you have 8.5" rims, 245 should be ok. The 245/45 will be a slightly larger diameter, so acceleration will suffer a bit. We tried these a few years ago, and compared to a "real" semi slick they weren't very good. I thnk the AR-1 is a better track tyre than the NS-2R, but not sure how the pricing compares. Have you tried to find used tyres - there are some bargains to be had sometimes.

Probably like moving interstate and needing to get a roadworthy to change rego I suspect.

Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / JB welded or anything? Yeah - I'm on the fence at the moment. There is a suggestion that the S1 block is somehow stronger, and I've got it. OTOH it was cheap, and maybe the newer block is the better option. I was hoping to find someone who has used the PRP plate - I can always ask them but will they tell me if it's not a good solution?

No, this area on the early blocks needs to have material added, not removed: I can't see anything on page 7 that helps me - can you expand? To be clear, my problem is mounting the idler/tensioner where the top photo on page 7 shows "RB25 Idler". The pic above shows the same location without the idler. On later blocks this area is filled to the same level as the area on the left hand side of the pic.

We've been running an RB25/30 R33 track car for 3-4 years, putting out around 300 RWKW. All was good, until it wasn't - a funny noise & a locked engine, and we found part of a rod on the track. The engine was built with stock rods & pistons. Haven't pulled the motor out yet, and can't even see where the hole is, but it's clearly terminal. We've sourced another RB30 block, but couldn't see until we started stripping it that it doesn't have the flat surface on the front for the relocated tensioner. Apparenty very early RB30's were like this. A bit of research shows that Platinum Racing Products sell a converter - it looks like a shaped plate that somehow attached to the front of the block to allow the tensioner to be fitted. I can't find anyone who's used one, nor much other info about them. Does anyone here know anything about this? The plate is https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb30-s1-block-converter Not sure whether to continue with this block, or ditch it and find another one. It does have the turbo oil & water ports on th eexhaut side. The new build will include forged rods & pistons, to try and avoid a repeat problem.

We went the red way, and also wondered why it was so long.

It's been a long time since I've used them, but E-Go Transport - e-go.com.au - used to be good value. I've used them in th epast to ship wheels, tyres, bumpers, and a V6 engine. among other things. They used to offer depot to depot shipping at a lower cost than pickup &/or delivery. No affiliation, but was always happy with their service & prices. Out of interest I put your figures in and they are quoting $328 depot to depot.

This photo is from an RB25DET crank, but probably no different to an RB26. The drill bit shank shown is 6mm, so I'd say the grubscrew is M6, and would assume the thread pitch is 1.0 because thats the common size (but you could use a fine thread if you wish). they are quite short - I'm thinking 5 mm or so from memory. I'm not removing it to check as it's threadlocked.

Bringing and old thread back, because I have new info. We removed the airbags from a series 2 R33 GTST track car, and they are not Takata branded. Info printed on the inflators is "HERST. MORTON INTL, OGDEN USA" and "NISSAN MOTOR DEUTSHLAND Gmbh NEUSS." A Google search for Morton International shows they made airbags in Utah, and a 1994 new item claims they had 60% of the worldwide airbag market at that time. Make of this what you will, but the airbags in my car are (were) not Takata. The inflator on the steering wheel is a different model (but looks very similar) to the pair of inflators on the passgenger side airbag.

Exactly the same here but on a GTST R33 - same front brakes, same soft pedal, same years of annoyance - the BM57 made a huge difference.

Thanks, that would be appreciated.

I'm running PS4S on my daily (BMW with lots of power) and very happy with them in wet & dry conditions.

Out of interest, how often do you start / drive it? Does it sit for weeks/months, then still start first go? Have an R33 GTST track car with lots of mods, including E85. It starts fine when cold if it's run regularly, but if it sits for a while (> a month) it's very hard to start - crank until battery goes flat, recharge & try again....

Suspension arms sold

Thanks, will get back to you.

I assume it has a Bosch sensor, but which one?

Sure - give me a call to arrange a time - 0428 841 730. I'm at Golden Grove, but will be at Edinburgh probably most of tomorrow.

At the risk of being called off topic, the correct answer to this question is "do you mind if I pay with fake money"

Wheels & spacers are now sold. Suspension arms still for sale.

Wing has been sold

I have a pair of Just Jap branded 20mm bolt-on wheel spacers to suit 5 x 114.3 PCD wheels with 66.1mm hub - fit Nissan, but may suit Ford, Toyota, Mitsubishi etc. These were on a Skyline R33, but will fit other cars. Wheel nuts are included - bolt these to your hubs, then bolt your rims to these to gain 40mm of track width. New price is $79 plus postage. Not very old, and nothing wrong with them - fix your stance for cheap. Price is $50, local pickup only

I have a pair of front upper control arms fitted with poly bushes, and a pair of castor arms off an R33 Skyline GTST S2. The control arms are already fitted with poly bushes (Superpro I believe, but whatever the purple ones are), so if your bushes are worn this is a cheap and easy replacement - way cheaper than new bushes, and you don't have to burn out the old rubber ones. The castor arm bushes are in good condition. Asking $40.

I have a GTR style rear wing to fit an R33 Skyline. I don't think it's a genuine Nissan wing, but not 100% sure. It was on an R33 GTST series 2. The blade has been repaired - it split along the leading edge and deformed at speed (>240kph at the Bend). It was repaired by inserting a length of aluminium square tube and filling the entire blade with expanding foam - it is now much stronger than the original, and has survived many subsequent >240kph runs down the main straight at The Bend. The fibreglass is still a bit split on the edges, hence the 100mph tape, and the low price. It is ripe for repair & paint, and is a bargain at $50. It includes endcaps. Located in Adelaide, and difficult to post so local pickup preferred. Edit - added price $50

I have a set of 18" Crimson Inc Club Linea alloys rims for sale. They are 18 x 8" 40 fronts, and 18 x 9" 38 rears. The PCD is 5 x 114.3, so can suit Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi and others.These fitted nicely on an R33 GTST, but will also fit many other cars. The rims are in good condition, and were repainted in a silvery bronze a few years ago. They include 4 centre caps. The front rims have R888r semi slicks fitted, but one is damaged. The rims are Japanese made, and good quality. Rims are in Adelaide, and local pickup is obviously preferred. Edit - forgot to add price - $600

Lol, I'm watching the Ch9 news, and they spelt it exactly the same tonight (in the text they show across the bottom while a talking head is talking crap)