burkash

Also thought about this, but noise is the same I think, or maybe even quiter a bit (!)

Yesterday I've directly powered the fuel pump and perhaps, that was the solution! Car starts very quick now, and I'm feeling like boost is always as it should be. The car pulls hard and has better reaction to the throttle. Nothing to say about fuel consumption though, but I hope it will be lower too. Not loudly announcing all the problems are gone, too little time has passed, but Scott, THANK YOU! If you somewhen come to Moscow -- let me know, we'll drink some right vodka ))

No, I think Not many, the change was done with the odometer showing ~130000. The previous owner hadn't maintained the car properly and didn't do the oil change in time, this resulted in early turbocharger death and also, right headlittle chain tensioner didn't work, so the chain became weak and vtc pulley has broken. No and again no! Cold transmission works perfect in my case. And there are no engine restrictions for too cold transmission, only when it's overheated the boost lowers to 0.5 This only depends on engine temp, not the a/t..

Thanks, Scott. Will try to do this today. Just to bla-bla, you mean in some situation the car lacks fuel and determines a knock, then falls into safe mode? I'm from Russia. But this could be a good idea, thanks.

Thanks, will try to do this today. Just to save some time, don't you remember the color of wires powering the pump? BTW, the problem didn't occur with walbro install, it was the same with the factory pump.

Yes, injectors are stock, 16600aa500 The fuel pump is Walbro, but frankly I don't like how it fitted into the case -- it was 1cm too long, so required some additional work to be installed. Glad you asked about the pump, please tell me, what pump fits perfectly?

And to be mentioned, the car also starts very poor, but not always. Sometimes it starts instantly, but mainly requires to hold the key for 2-3 secs. Didn't notice any connection with temperature or any other things.

That was not me who said twice Not twice, I suppose 18-19 liters according to the car weight and my driving habits. Have got no leaks and no petrol smell.. And no black smoke, I mean no smoke that could be seen in the rear view mirror.

What you're talking about -- it's tranny overheat protection, I saw this several times before installing tranny cooler. This happened each time after driving very severely with flooring after each stop and rushing through traffic with lots of kickdown. The boost became limited to 0.5, and moreover the manual shift mode was unavailable. No, if that was so, it could be easier to dig in. The fuel is 98. strictly, and from different stations. Even tried some additives, no difference. I didn't say, but I've already tried to change the ecu, overall the car goes better, but the problem stays. I measure the consumption in the right way, driving full tank to empty, and then seeing how much fuel gets into there. As I've said -- I do rather active city driving, but to compare, recently I used a w211 e320 for about a month (3.2 liter diesel engine, 500+Nm and 180Hp), flooring it very often and maybe going even faster than on my Stagea -- I had 11-12 liter per 100. The car weighs nearly the same and has a similar stupid 5AT, of course it is diesel, but not so much difference..

Hi to all, new to this forum but already have read a lot. So in short, my Stagea has terrible fuel economy during active city driving (~30 liters per 100km) and has bad reaction on the throttle pedal (not always, though). What has been done already: new maf, new o2, new knock sensor, whole new timing mechanism including both vtc pulleys and all chains, new injectors, new fuel pump with filter and many others. Has a bigger intercooler, slightly highflowed turbo, 3 inch cat back, a/t transgo kit and cooler. No leaks in the intake system, checked. Compression ok. So the main problem is that the car runs 0.8 boost instead of 1.0 pactically all the time, and sometimes (mainly if started up in cold, but not strictly), first 10 minutes after start and warm up it goes 1.0 and pulls really hard. My idea is that 0.8 boost happens because the car runs some kind of safe map (maybe knock map??), and for the same reason handles the throttle slower and smaller? Does anyone really know, how exactly a signal of knock affect the m35's behavior? P.S. Sorry for bad English, not my native.