benji-nz

In terms of the factory RB25DET tune, is it considered "safe" for drifting/track work/in general? Obviously not maximized for power or apparently ralative fuel economy but aside from that.

People are out there drifting with RB20e motors in there cars, so a standard RB25DET should be fine. More power is great, but I guess it also shows that handling setup can and is just as important as power. By all means though get some more if he can because, why not!!!!!

Whats the length difference with the A33 tie rods vs R33?

Do the S1 plugs fit the S2

Sweet!... Possible to have Nismo internals? Which I believe would just be a plate change?

(rather then starting a new thread) Time to intrude; I recently purchased a new diff and am unsure if it is a Nismo or not. It will be at least 4 years old if that makes a difference.

I have one of these, and the mark up locally is less then in Aus apparently too. $320 NZD for my one which is exactly the same; http://blacklabelperformance.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_70_71&product_id=435. It is not quiet so will want something else to take some noise away. On my car with nothing but 3 inch downpipe, 3.5 inch decat, then that straight pipe with end cannon.

I too noticed the loom plugs looked about right. So in theory they should work by the sounds of it, though your in the best position to find out haha. Have been doing some searching for info on dwell time etc, with little luck. Must be hard owning one, as there is little about them.

That would be a great investigative pursuit haha!

Is it actually possible to put VQ coils on an RB? Its a question I've wondered for a while now

Its Satin, though in need or a repaint...last owners job! In saying that I am a fan of a proper satin job.

My R32

Never on those "chassis rails"! Unless you want a very expensive repair bill to fix them, they are soft and not for loading on at all . There are axle stand points on the sills front and rear I believe, also some hoists appear to have additional inboard blocks to lift up the chassis on the diff/subframe area though I'll assume you have a 2 post hoist with the adjustable arms so the sill points will be the go with appropriate soft blocks/pads. Again don't use the "chassis rails" as this is at least a $500 repair if you get caught with the damage. Hope that helps! Links; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266324-howwhere-to-lift-a-skyline-r33s2/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/118956-jack-stand-points-needed/ ^Side member=NO LIFT NO!

Link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403711-top-feed-rail-in-r33-with-stock-plenumyes-it-can-be-done/

Hey guys. Im looking to replace the chopped up loom in my R32, with RB25DET. I have a couple of photos below. Am I missing something here, as there appears to be more loom plugs on the R32 loom compared to the R33 loom (rb25de one).

Hey guys. I'm wondering if anyone could identify this diff? (rather then start another thread). Planning an upgrade for the 32 and have spotted this; 4.3, 4 bolt rear R200 with 5 bolt shafts, s13 front housing.

For me I put the bung in my decat pipe, nice and simple.

Little update. VCT is fixed. Rewired it with a new plug, and a standalone power source and is all go! What a difference! The issue with the fuel ratio was with the o2 sensor unplugged. Plugged in and with the wideband in the exhaust, had 14.7 afr at cruising. Thirdly the car still has a miss, link to the video here; One is around 25 seconds, the other 'fart' at 55 seconds.Again around 5000 rpm/2nd gear Still like the typical RB miss?

No scalding that I can see.

Unless you have something to compensate for the flow difference with the injectors, your fighting a loosing battle.

So have begun the task of finding the fault. I tested the Ohm resistance (20k) from the ECU to the Plug into the ignitor, and cylinders 1-3-4-6 all had a 0.00 or 0.01 resistance. Cylinders 2-5 (pins 2 and 12) has 0.94 or 0.93 ohms. Could this be enough to cause a miss at the higher RPM?

To be honest i am unsure of the dwell on the coilpack. The thing is i believe it worked fine (if im remembering correctly) when I purchased the car, but it had a different ignitor at the time (silver early model one 22020 05U00) This ignitor had a faulty ground and was replaced with a "j30" one which involved a wiring switch. Whether that has made a difference im unsure as the car was not driven hard for a while, as other issues reared there ugly heads. On the note for a Loom, i did infact purchase an RB25DE loom from a R33 GTS25 auto a while ago but on inspection it appears the "body loom"? is different to the R32. On the DE loom there is a main blue ecu plug, and a white large elongated one. On the current loom in the R32, which is unknown, there are atleast 4 or 5 seperate plugs that appear to be wired in. As to where they go I have no clue! Ill post up some picks up the loom to highlight what I'm meaning. GTS25 RB25DE loom R32 Loom (unknown but probably RB20DET)

Hey Rolls Yes I did have a read through those Misfire threads, but I felt it may be of another origin. Then again that might just be blissful ignorance! I will build a boost leak tester, and unless some god awful leak appears ill look into a new coil pack for the wasted spark. In saying that the coil pack did have acceptable conductivity and resistance, though as to whether that reflects on actual performance I suppose is another thing entirely? Cheers! Oh and as for the consult. Is it likely to show anything else that doesnt get registered with the old paper clip/engine light trick?

Hey guys Having some trouble with my motor. Its a standard rb25det with FMIC, stock turbo, wasted spark, j30 ignitor, stock RB25DET auto ecu on manual trans, atmosphere bov, full decat 3 inch exhaust, walbro 255 fuel pump 14v and sard FPR, no VCT. I installed a wideband temporarily in the o2 port to test AFR, as the problem exists with and without the o2 sensor connected. The car seems to idles and free rev fine, and has no trouble with "town driving" (afr 13.3ish no o2 sensor) In 2nd gear rising to WOT the car will hit 5000ish rpm (80km) and loose power, splutter, but not shudder. The Afr drops to 9 at that point. The spark plug condition for all 6 plugs was and has stayed brown, with just a touch of white Ie no sign of a fowling or lean conditions with each periodic check, but maybe the journey home is covering the true spark plug condition? Plug gap is 0.80 Boost pressure has stayed at 5psi even with the intercooler and exhaust (unsure if id see a change or not) on the factory and aftermarket gauge. Base timing looks to be 15 btdc, although this is after i retarded the cas as it was fully advanced. I did not check the timing beforehand but the problem did still exist. I did also notice the boost control solenoid wire has been run individually but to who knows where, was there is no solenoid on the turbo, just a connector or reference pipe from wastegate to turbo front. An additional problem has to do with the VCT. When i bought the car it was disconnected. When i attached the plug, it would idle, but any throttle action caused a severe shuddering. On inspection the 113 port was connected correctly, but it appears (RB20 loom used i believe so dodgy wires everywhere) that the "power" wire was being taken from a Injector connection on the ecu side, with solder. Is the interferrence of this power sauce causing the injector to loose signal, or would have no affect as the rpm switch point was no where near the activation rpm required? Any help would be great. Cheers!

Ok guys. Have gotten some Blitz Type 01 wheels in 17x9 with 22p offset. What would be the best width/height tyres to suit a R32 GTS-T standard guards? I believe 245-45 will fit the rears just, as there on atm (flush with the guards) but more concerned with the maximum width for the front, not fussed if the guard needs a little massage but don't want the insides to touch! Also what tends to be the more popular sizes in 17 inch tyres?