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muck

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Everything posted by muck

  1. i hear powercell and odessy batteries are very good for the money around $100 cheaper than the optimas
  2. the yellow top in my car pushing a about 600w rms , will manage 1 hour i know that.. i havent had it at the movies or run it longer yet.
  3. optima yellow top @ battery world, check the white pages.. theres a few locations im pretty sure they are under the $400 mark.... i think i paid $380 for mine...
  4. i have a optima yellow top in my skyline, and never seen pulsing and holds a nice 13v+ even when the stereo is cranked up at the lights. well worth the money.
  5. to get the oil temp gauge to work, a temp sensor would be needed, would the part be available from a nissan dealer? im assuming there would be one out there for the R's....
  6. so what do u guys reckon then? replace the stock turbo, rebuild, high flow, or new turbo. lets say if i was after 200rwkw what would i be looking to do?
  7. exhaust wheel will mean ill need a new turbo? anyone recommend somewhere in melbourne i can take my car, se suburbs is probably best. not sure how much boost ive been running. its a s1 r33
  8. if its lost teh compressor wheel the car, i shouldnt be using the car at all?
  9. no theres no smoke comming from the exhaust. the car sounds fine apart from it being very noisey. and its not boosting anymore. intercooler piping seems to be ok. split exhaust manifold causes no boost also?
  10. hey guys, getting on the on ramp today, i heard a little pop sounded like air escaped, and felt the car go off boost, and thats the end of that. the exhaust on the car now runs at least 5 times louder. im not a guru, with anything mechanical with cars, im assuming im dealing with a dead turbo? and is it safe to drive teh car around? or am i better off not driving it until someone checks it out? cheers mark.
  11. wow.. this is good news.. i might actually be able to take the line out with teh bike.. makes for a good double.... getting home im comfort for the first time! after some hard down hill work
  12. yeah its a bov, its spring adjustable, so it can make that fluttering sound, and the ppsssscchhhtttt.. and yes... it makes the car stall.. atmo venting
  13. is it possible to get them on my r33? im getting annoyed by having to drive the daily runner on the weekends.. just so i can ride my bike
  14. i'll have to get some pics i have none atm. i dunno about the adapter going straight onto the r34's.. maybe someone else can answer that. but looks exactly like the vee port bov on the turbosmart homepage
  15. just cars will pay a maximum $3300 for an uninsured driver at fault. 25 .. rating 4 i think, paying $555 for third party plus fire and theft for up to $4000. or $305 for third party. under mods- its stated as exhaust mods and cooler. i always have wheels... im pretty sure i mentioned that.. so im not sure why its not stated. i guess its technically unroadworthy, atmo venting bov. anyway.. there wasnt any hassles for me.
  16. as stated in topic. comes with adapter to replace stock bov. from an r33 asking $150
  17. im on 3rd party fire and theft with just cars. for my r33 gtst. i had to make a claim last year, due to an uninsured wrx driver, driving into me. they paid out the full amount of $3300 that the policy covers, and then offered to collect the rest from the other driver at the same time as recovering the $3300 that they paid out to me. the rest incidently was $3300. my car was repaired at my choice of panel beater, and the assessor went down there checked the car out and gave it the green light.. money was sent and there wasnt any problems.. just cars definately hassle and stress free for me
  18. muck

    nose piece

    after those pieces inbetween the grill and the bumper
  19. i think, unless you dont admit to it... you wont get anything. i was in an accident last year, and i couldnt get my vehicle off the road, and it was right on where shell is just past queens road and chappel st, on an early sat. morning.. anyway.. suffice to say.. there was plenty of unwanted attention. basically... we had an ambulance and 3 traffic cops.. trying to figure out what was going on.. i was pulled aside.. and they had a go at me... and asked me how fast i was going.. i said 70... and he said bs.. those skid marks are pretty long over there... and we can and will measure them, so u might as well tell us now.. and im like 80.. anyway.. it goes on like that for ages.. anyway.. i ended up saying.. i could've been travelling at 100.. but i might not have been and i wouldnt know because.. i wasnt looking at the speedo.... anyway... they tell me. im going to receive a fine in teh mail for doing a 100km/h in a 70 zone? or something and loose 3 demerit points.... a week and a half later.. i get the fine.. it states.. alleged speed 100km/h , loss of 3 points and $200.
  20. you still got some for the ecr33?
  21. hey there i had a go and wiring this sucker up today... and lets just say.. i didnt get very far... that n4-a diagram isnt the same as my car... ahahahhaha.. my ecu is missing that wire as shown in the diagram.. [edit] thats the rpm wire.... stupid thing i've given up.. haha.. i think i'll just pay someone to fix my mess.. and get it tuned.. i swear it isnt meant to be this hard..
  22. for those of u who have managed to work it out ) im looking at the english safc.pdf from apexi... and looking at the safc2 manuals in jap... and too be honest.. i have nfi are the wires in same color configuration as before? there are an additional 2 more.... is it possible to just wire it up as per safc1 diagrams.. and guess work the others? or is that bad for the ecu health? im working on the assumption here that they still are still color coded the same way.. yellow - air out white - air in brown - ground red - power green - rpm pink - ? orange - ? purple - ? blue - ? grey - ground ? by the looks of things the ground has now moved to the last pin.. near teh IG power? that leaves the last 4 connectors to the 2nd and 3rd pins looking left to right on the n4-a diagram.. perhaps better still... for a 93 series 1 r33... how to? cheers
  23. i got my yellow top straight into where the factory battery was. just slides in there nicely. the positive was a little short to the terminal by about 3cm's. top battery. recommend the money if your gonna go a few amps in the back..
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