sadr33

Hi guys, im after a good condition starter motor for 1993 GTS-T The car simply wont crank I think either the brushes or the solenoid on the starter is gone. Needit ASAP msg me on 0424491597 Can pickup.

I need a CAS for 1998 R33 gtst. So its the one with the half moon key like the R34s CAS, but not the same. I have heard you can use a R34 one but you need to rewire it. Any details?

The pod filter really makes the induction and associated blow of sounds much much louder and meatier. What you've been hearing so far. Theres not much you can do except for fitting an aftermarket BOV or adjusting your current one which will make the lift of pssstt sound, but you wont hear any extra noise otherwise. You can fit a speaker system which mimicks the turbo. They have systems for both outside and inside the cabin noise. Do you want more do you want others to hear it? These are really dumb thought unless your doing it as a joke. Personally I would leave it the way it is now.

I think i've been quoted around 800 before. Where is this $80 tune?

Im well aware of how crappy iridiums and some platinums are. So unfourtunatelly this was all happening with bcpr6es in there

The CAS was rotated to the left, not all the way but almost as far as it goes. I put the bolts back to the center where it looked like the original grooves and dirt marks were, it slotted in easily and snugly so I'm sure this is the original position. FAAAAAARK@!!!!! pinging gone . Most people would be happy but I'm pissed because it means all that times damage was being done. This is what happens when you have more than one problem with a car, they escalate exponentially. My front bar was loose, making a clattering noise, almost identical to the pinging, I was almost certain it was that making the noise, but it wasn't. I recently had some of the belts at the front including the timing changed. Don't you have it when you spend money hopefully for the better of the engine and it turns out fiddling with it screwed you over the belts weren't even that bad. money spent going backwards. argh Anyway now the car feels slow as. Feels like I lost 70-100hp and engine feels like its running in slow motion. I don't remember it being this slow before these problems arose and I have put everything back to the way it was. So the pinging has done damage causing a loss of power? About pre-ignition The reason I started changing plugs and increasing gap is because I was also getting a sudden "jerk" out of the engine every 10 seconds or so at idle, like someone just kicked it real hard sideways very very like a misfire on boost which I have felt in other cars, but at idle. The best way I can describe is the feeling you get when you drop a piece of ice into a blender. It runs smooth then all of a sudden when the blades munch whatever is in there there is a shudder and then it goes smooth again in the space of a second. Is this what pre-igitnion feels like? Under throttle it was fine as far as as the "kick" goes, only the pinging was there. People told me it was a harmless misfire but I have new yellowjacket coils that can handle 1.1mm at 10psi no problems, why would it miss under idle if it doesnt miss under WOT. it didn't make sense to me but I took the advice. So I was getting both knocking and pre-ignition wasn't I?

Yea they cost about 100k and some of the nastier ones can be way off in terms of figures. I get it though I'm only trying to determine is my car is pining I coudln't pay more than about $80. I 'm running 10 psi. In terms of mods, not much. 2 stage boost contoller (holds boost fine) Yellow jacket coils, and forged internals. oh and just kidding about the last one. no major engine mods Anyway about the car knocking, doesn't ECU detect knock and retard the timing and if so and flash the check engine? Or put the car in limp mode? OR does it have only limited adjustability i.e 5 degrees +- and if knock is caused by sharp objects in the combustion chamber such as a flake hanging of a spark plug it cant do $h!t about it?

Yea good idea actually. But I cant build boost and got WOT long enough on a ramp lol Ill fly off the building. Ive been across a few roads like that where you hear your car echo close and very clearly but remember off the top of my head.

Is there any group dynos happening soon or recommendations? They seem a bit pricey otherwise.

Never run anything other than V power. I cant really help the bonnet as the latch that keep it shut has play in the teeth, its not about spanners. I did fit new mounting rubbers the bonnet sits on though which helped. IM 99.999% sure the bonnet isn't making those types of noises though. The dash I have nfi how to stop making noises. I tightened up the front bar and grills as much as I can but it really needs a professional fit maybe even repair which is costly.

I cant tell if my engine is pinging or not because I hear the noise but cant be sure!? Its recently come up. For months I thought It was something loose but Ive been trying to fix those and I still hear it. It sounds exactly like knocking, a rattling coiny noise that comes after about 5000rpm under WOT. Its very noticeable. I can be at 70% throttle, 5000rpm, steady, all fine, then I go WOT suddenly I hear the noise. The trouble is I have a LOT of loose stuff that make almost identical noises and as the rpm increases the natural skyline VCT vibrations kick in. The dash rattles, the pillars creak. The seats creak, and tiny rocks that get caught in the tyres and get throwing in the body maxing coiny rattly noises. The bonnet and front kit isnt the tightest fitting either. If there any way of knowing aside form a tuner, and how much does this cost? It would be great if anyone that can tell it apart well could take a listen? I know these common engine changes things affect pinging. Increasing Timing Running hotter plugs Running more boost. But what about spark plug gap? The only thing I have changed since the noise starter is I was having a murmur/burb under idle the recommended 0.8 gap so I went up to 1.1 maybe even 1.2. Murmur is gone, but now that pining noise is The only thing I can think of is I was going to use new plugs as I don't like gapping however I was convinced to I re-gapped em anyway, when a mistake was made I tapped the top of spark plug ground electrode on rough cement. I'm sure this created jagged edges on the metal of the plug which likely acting as a super heated hot spit in the combustion chamber and causing additional ignition in addition to the combustion chamber this pinging? One last question. Any experiences of things going wrong running the manufacturer recommended heat range of 5 i.e bcpr5es instead of the bcpr6es most recommend? I only run 10 psi max. Next step is to try new plugs that haven't been mashed on cement to see if that fixes it, but I want to run bcpr5es. I want to get the mostly stock engine running as optimally as possible thus the hotter plugs. P.S how much damage can you do in about a month of pinging, about 150-200 WOT "runs" in that time ( where pining certainly happens)

These were working perfect and came with the car. Only changed them out with yellow jackets as part of a proposed upgrade I did but to be honest the week I drove it with the standard coils I didn't have a single hiccup. They come with a set of barely used NGK BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs. Guarantee they are identical to a new set after a few hours of driving. $140 Syd area. I don't mind if you want to drop them in a car to test them before you buy them.

I hear noises like this coming when my fans and ac is on. Little clicks, a wish wash etc. It sounds a bit like gremlins live in there. The cars are ageing so stuff like this happens but not sure what is.

Do you hear a mild click click click when you change the temps from 18 to 22 etc? MIne does what you are descriping but all I hear is click click. When I set it to 32 I get no heat coming out even thought engine thermostat and water temps, circulation etc seem fine. I'm guessing its the mechanism that lets hot air in or not for me. Not sure if its the same for you.

If its low on gas obviously there is a leak somewhere. Is it possible to introduce a leak by tugging on ac lines in the engine bay. If so anyone know how long it takes for the slowest leak to loose gas to a point the ac system doesn't cool whatever. I had a car once that would loose gas every year and no one found the leak even with the dye in it. They wanted 3k to open up the dash. very anoying.