Eug

i put on my robe and wizards hat and cast level 10 spell: instant powah on squizz!

only displaying interest... if you dont want to PM me then fine... ohh its one of THOSE ns.com type cruises.... well then i retract my interest

block the deck ie. shave the block, in order to raise the compression. the price will depend on how deep your pocket is and how much of the work you do yourself. changing the bottom end is swapping the block - how hard it is depends on what you do, what head you decide to use and what you want to incorporate into it. you can do a basic build with stock parts and balanced bits, or you can go all out with lightweight pistons, knifebladed crank, shotpeend rods, etc etc etc.... and can be anything up to 5k+ then you'll need an aftermarket ecu, or piggyback, tune, maybe want to consider a brake upgrade. the key to NA engines is high revs (ie. formula1 and ~18000 rpm) so you'd be looking at fixing the harmonic issues with RB30s (engine cradle) and around 9000 rpm, again depending on your wallet. and also high compression. advantages are: linear power in the rev range, and a torquey mofo with 3L bottom end, driveability. in a nut shell its worth is your personal opinion. are you looking at power:money, or uniqueness:money, or 1/4time:money, fuel:money, etc. guestimate would be around from anywhere 170rwkw~200rwkw, even more depending on how far you'd like to go. i'll be looking at this conversion in future if uni fees decide to be friendly with me - so MAYBE expect a worked NA in future. cheers eug

i have heard through the grapevine that ADD used the Beer 32-34 kit, and modifed to fit the s13.

i'm a pig PM me plz

not to mention R32s with CA18s :lol:

youuuuuuuuuuuuuu are not serious?!!!!!!

rofl - werd... try a search young padwan.. this has been covered heaps of times

not true. NA R33s are also ECR33

there isnt a kit for every possible thing under the sun. i suggest you head over to the na sections and do SEARCH for how to turbo NA. kthnxbai!!!1111oneone

in regards to the base, if it is attached to the house then you will need to dig for footings and slabs. and yes you will need an engine stand, especially if your tinkering around in the garage

the r33 gts does have a 65L tank i get around 500 city and up to 600+ highway (thats babying it) i run bp ultimate only (98ron) havent had any experience with an octane booster. and ngk platinums/iridiums have been a waste for me. only go the booster/platinums/iridiums if you have the car tuned for it

black one for me too. brissie

i'm guessing a gtr can run a safc - and that the problem is more ecu based in don's case. is it as easy as splicing the wires from the 2 afm's together? (that sounds really stupid to me, meh) although the Y pipe will actually be a backwards step in terms of the twin throttle bodies. maybe something such as this is an option? ie. with the same volume as 2 afm's? ecu upgrade sounds like the easy solution, however not the cheapest. keep it up don, good to see someone doing something different. eug

- go for 3 bays (2 cars but more room ) - remember you will need a spot for engine stand - a spot for workbench - a spot for the huge ass snap on tool box - a spot for sofa - a wall for a plasma screen - a spot for beer fridge - sink for greasy washing up - might want to look into ventilation for exhaust fumes and heat - you want to have a roundabout in front of the garage - and a big ass shelf for all those boxes, n shit

good luck mate... just bring teh cash - it cant hurt. in qld, we only need to bring our L's, as to the licensing we have an option of like 1year or 3 years and 5/6 years? obviously the 5/6 (cant remember) years option is the cheapest in the long run - so go with that. just remember to be polite to the examiner ie. say hello, shake hands. and even if you get an asshole examiner (like i did) just keep calm and do everything so damn good that even he cant find a mistake (like i did) =) ohh remember to dress nicely for your photo (because i didn't) cheers eug

i'll have to agree with jason. cars are made to be driven - you dont throw in adjustable coilovers and slotted rotors along with xxxRWKW just because you can. that and also while walking around some of the other cars, people made comments such as "its not low enough" or "it doesnt even have a paint job/bodykit/etc" that said, each to their own - some nice showroom quality cars, as well as driver cars.

nah i saw it.. its fine... nice car

yeah could you post the photos here?

r32 gts4 and gtr can be made rwd by pulling the fuse cant do it with r33 gts4 and gtr and you will need a grid dancer, torque split convertor

r32's can have up to 3 different types of calipers. r32 non type m gtst or gts - have twin pot sliding piston calipers fronts and single pot sliding piston rears. r32 type m gtst and gtr? - have 4 pot sumitomo piston calipers fronts and twin pot piston calipers rears. r32 gtr vspec - have brembo brakes which are bigger again. pcd's dont have anything to do with caliper clearance. however offset does have a little to do with it, but i have found the most pain in the arse thing about rims is the x-factor. the x-factor is the spoke design of the rims. the problem is there is no set measurement of spoke design, and is not a numerical or describe-able value. they either clear the calipers or they dont. (ie. chunky spokes or thin spokes) hope that clears things up. its late, so if anything is wrong please correct me. eug

i see... that changes things a bit. are you opting for a larger diametre single pipe before the Y piece? what type of afm are you intending to use? is this the case for gtr's? can anyone else shed some light on this. its great to see you doing something different don, keep us posted!

omg buy teh double-six!!! avs make really nice rims, i like the model 7s.

yeh! thanks dude! i was trying to figure out what cars were on teh powerboard!

any reason for that Don? safc?