Eug

ok the plate is on the firewall most usually on the left side. the firewall is at the back of the engine, the wall that seperates the engine from the cabin. NA means Naturally Aspirated, which means non-turbo. Hope that clears up some confusion

my car had an HKS dual dragger when it was imported, far too big and far too loud - absolutely useless, it was more suited to a GTR or GTST... needed to change it for compliancing so I had a stock exhaust put in (still have it today) and the stock exhaust sounds absolutely CRAP, but it definately isnt quiet.

i use zip ties... i zip tie the clutch to the gearknob... then i zip tie the steering wheel to the brake, the handbrake is zip tied to the cigarette lighter and the turbo is zip tied to the nos kit. (starting to sound like Squizz's car eh? j/k) sounds like good stuff hungry6, but i think its so fcked that we have to basically "jail" our cars to have it safe... any immobilizer/alarm can be bypassed if the thieves know what they want/doing - they wudnt be targetting imports otherwise, cos they know what some of the parts are worth!! /end rant

omfg.. thats a proper explanation right there... (i never did physics) its kinda like air harmonics and a vaccum effect...

NS means Nissan Silvia...

Rachael: 137rwkw and 15.2 sounds pretty good... Don(?) on the forums here (with the red wagon) has managed a 14.7 - that is with pretty much rb25 bits - pretty good I am currently doing a little research into using the 26 head, and bigger cams and lightweight pistons - This is the tricky bit, cos it starts to get quite expensive - and may as well go the turbo route... There doesnt seem to be many people who have done a worked RB30DE hence the lack of power figures, torque figures and 1/4 mile times. Still keen on a N/A motor for something different, insurance and yet keep the power figures up without pouring too much money (and no nos ) Gary's thoughts on CR ratio's. no worries Usherly - thnx for the input

12:1 would be pretty good for NA... I run on PULP in my R33 GTS anyway. Would be keen to find out the highest CR possible on pump fuel (98RON) without having to use an octane booster or race fuel mixtures.

usherly, thanks for the help but I was talking about the 30DE...

Thought I'd start a thread on the 30DE hybrids. There is a biiig discussion for the 30DETs in the turbo section, and I'd like some discussion and past experiences from anyone here that has done this conversion or is unsure (like me ). Benster seems pretty keen on this conversion, and I'm still looking into it, to see if the power gains will be worth doing. Don(?) I believe has done this with his red wagon, and Megalla. Anyone have dyno graphs? 1/4 Mile Times? Costs Involved? So far: Head: RB25/RB26 (26 would be better but costly) VVT: Would be better for NA applications, but easier without VVT Block: RB30E Pistons: RB25DE Pistons (Benster has confirmed to give a 10.5:1 CR) What about lightweight hypeuretic? Oil Pump: I believe the stock RB25DE one would be able to be used? Fuel Pump: I believe the stock RB25DE one would be able to be used? Cams: Stock? Bigger cams? ECU: Chipped 32? PFC???

I'm not entirely sure on that... but I have also read the above on the VL Forums too... Then.. again arent some people on these forums using the NA pistons for the DET build? or is that the 30e pistons?

I'm quite keen on this, and still looking into it (mate will be helping out big time) - Do you have any more info/pics on this Meggala? Just need to see if the power/torque gains would be worth the money involved. It would sound absolutely siik though. Benster I believe the RB25DE pistons are already 10:1 in the RB25, by putting on the bigger block I think you would be shaving alot of head/block. so is this the power you have for a 25/30de? any graphs? kinda interested if the NA's can still produce the torque?

*poke* i'd like to restart any discussion on the rb30de... more specifically with the 26 head. if anyone has done the 25/30 or 26/30 conversion care to post any dyno graphs or 1/4 mile times? what compression do you run 10:1? 11:1? did you retain the vvt? (how do u tune with the vvt?) etc... yes i've read ALL the pages in the forced induction section, but it doesnt cover the questions related for n/a applications. thanks Eug

benster: from what i read, i believe the vvt would actually prove beneficial on an n/a. i'm pretty interested in the rb30de as well... but like benster havent found much info on it.

pod filter isnt really an air cooler - just allows cooler air to be passed through there's been quite a few write ups on this in more detail - try a search next time instead of posting a new thread for every question. simple answer: yes, only when used with a heat sheild.

tip, cannon, muffler.... the thing that spits out smoke... and occasionally flames.

They go from as low as 12k to around 15k. I paid a bit closer to 16k, but that was with pretty low km's and i am the first owner since japan. I honestly havent heard of major engine problems with N/A cars. They are reliable and quite easy on the fuel. Being 19 you will feel the hurt of insurance, and maintanance for a turbo skyline. If its your first car, its also a good learning experience with the rwd. Physically the only difference to teh turbos are: - Smaller brakes (bolt on upgrade if needed) - 4 stud instead of 5. - GTS25 sticker instead of GTS25T - and possibly blue badges, although the Type S seems to have Red badges too. Things you should look out for are: - Body damage (Slightly off colour panels, indicating a possible accident) - Rust, check near the door, hinges area for differnt colour too. - Take another 33 for a strap and try to find any differences. Other than that... good luck mate, and welcome. Cheers Eug

faarrk... sorry to hear Dan.. Will keep an eye out. Hope you can get it back without any damage.

I can vouch for the rebuild and the condition on these teins.

such a mission taking out the dash surround then taking out the headunit... just go to the trunk and disconnect the plug into the antenna motor...

:)

LED - refer to the QLD section... some dude is thinking of importing a whole batch.. and the clear tailights can be bought only in japan, there is a company that makes them. forgot the name - not cheap!

He's recently moved house... I will try to get in contact with him

i always wondered what that was too... possibly an emissions sorta thing? i know the turbo cars don't have it and require a charcoal box for importing - but mine didnt need one (charcoal box) so i figured this could have been it? :confused:

I probably didnt go to as much trouble as the rest of you guys, but mine were pretty filthy and just wanted to get them cleaned and looking good. The anodized ones look siik though.

Jim is up here in QLD. I didnt get a clutch made by him (NA car - no real need) BUT I did get him to check out a new clutch that was going to be fitted. He is very cluey with clutches and seems thinks the Jap twin plate/triple plates are all overrated. He builds his own clutches himself and tests it all. Top guy. I will be going to him for my next clutch. Eug