Eug

mine came like that... personally i dont like the aerial so i fixed it and pulled out teh plug. this is how i did it: unscrew the top chrome bit around teh aerial. open the lining in the trunk, rear left. take out the jack, and feel around for the motor. unbolt and unplug teh motor and take it out... i found that the cogs and the long white plastic thing with teeth were mis-aligned so i took it all apart and cleaned it all up. regreased and realigned everything.. it is all pretty straight forward if you know what your doing - if ur not sure then ur better off getting a professional to fix it. That said - my radio works fine with the aerial down so you might want to leave it???

paully_tee: would it be possibleto post up pictures of this custom intake? I am just saying that alot of people tend to take off the snorkel when installing a pod filter, and proven that it is in fact a reasonable idea to throw it back in if you dont want a custom intake made up. Also taking out the passenger headlight for a run down the strip may prove beneficial. Eugene

Ok here's the story... Car is completely stock, no power mods, only suspension bits. January - Installed a pod filter, only a crappy cardboard (template) heatshield. - Ran on the dyno, made 108.4rwkw (at night). Got off my arse, and decided to make a proper heatshield and decided to throw in the stock airbox snorkel to see if it made a difference. See here On the street the car seems to accelerate a little more smoothly. I was keen to see what difference the snorkel had done. May - Proper heatshield and snorkel installed. - Ran on the same dyno, made 108.0rwkw (at midday). Here are the two dyno-charts. Ok the 2nd run made 0.4 less kw - and I took into account that it was due to ambient temperature. Either way 0.4 is not very much, and indicates that the dyno is reading correctly. But what's more important are the AFR's, just by installing a snorkel + heatshield, I have smoothed out the air and fuel mixtures. This may be something to consider, to those who have pod filters and those who think they may need a SAFC to fix their ratio's. Hope this helps. Eugene

XBOX360 is not backwards compatible I heard... PSX and PS3 all teh way!

ahh bad luck Aaron... I believe that the pod only has to be braced down securely

Glad I could help mate - good to see you've cleared it up

I am not sure about the engine details (but with the commonality between most nissan parts ie. 32/33/34/300zx - i cannot see why not), but with the brakes... I am in the process of upgrading brakes. I have opted to go with 32GTST (as that was what was available to me) but 33 items bolt up just as easily too. If you just got new rims, then you can either get the rotors re-drilled or order 4 studed rotors. If you are doing an engine conversion it is advisable to upgrade the brakes. Being NA, there are twin pot calipers front and (single?) pot rears. total of 6 pots on the car with small contact area. upgrading will give me 4 pot fronts and twin pot rears... a total of 12 pots.. and a far greater contact area. Thicker and slotted rotors is not a bad idea either. Try a search on the calipers/rotors/studs... hope that helps Eugene

try a search on this... for a more definate answer if you remove the rear wheel, there should be a rubber plug on the rear discs (both sides) rotate untill you find the thingo doobie, and u shud be able to adjust it there... then u fine tune it under the handbrake boot (inside the car)

warwick - i just went to the nissan service centre and spoke with gary (friend of glenns) and he was pretty helpful in gettin some part numbers for me by searching the computer database... pretty sure he cud search for other cars which share the parts.

soooo very very low.....

u still havent sent me photos mate.

Go to Squizz - he is good with a mallet. Not only will you get awesome camber, but he will bash out ur hicas for u. Bob Jane is good

you my friend are beyond help.....

original airbox was too restrictive with the panel filter. installed a pod filter a while ago to my NA it was an improvement, but it was just sitting there and seemed very sluggish due to the heat from the engine. I then decided to make a heatshield to try and make the most of it. template was made with cardboard - made about 3-4 of these, continously trial fitting. transferred the cardboard template onto aluminum sheeting mounted brackets to hold the sheeting in place insulation foil on both sides to keep engine heat away from pod. I have yet to do a temperature check, but after a fairly spirited drive for 20mins, and placing hands on either side of the heatshield - a large difference in temperature was apparent. This was done on a under ~$30 budget - i took my time in doing it - but can be done in a few hours. End Result:

original airbox was too restrictive with the panel filter. installed a pod filter a while ago to my NA it was an improvement, but it was just sitting there and seemed very sluggish due to the heat from the engine. I then decided to make a heatshield to try and make the most of it. template was made with cardboard - made about 3-4 of these, continously trial fitting. transferred the cardboard template onto aluminum sheeting mounted brackets to hold the sheeting in place insulation foil on both sides to keep engine heat away from pod. I have yet to do a temperature check, but after a fairly spirited drive for 20mins, and placing hands on either side of the heatshield - a large difference in temperature was apparent. End Result:

i cant figure out if you want those parts or wanna sell them? and i cant see why you would need all that for snapping a pin. If you are looking for them, NA_R33 has done a brake conversion and has R33 GTS brakes lying around (I believe), I am also doing a brake conversion and will have the NA brakes available too.

hmm.. if you become a member of SAU you get discounts at bobjane... I got 225 and 215 45/17 for around the 250-260 mark... (btw i got the 215 and 225 at the same price - taringa bob jane are pretty good blokes... speak to "Milton" he is the franchise owner) interesting tread pattern.... btw the c.drives use a new silcia compound to the 539s.

I'm was a big fan of the Yoko A539s and like you said they have been replaced by the C-Drives - I have recently upgraded to the C-Drives and they stick like a dried turd to a toilet. Much quieter and smoother than the 539s, and still (and much) grippier in both the dry and the wet. Yoko's are a little pricey - but you get what you pay for...

ROFL - I have driveway issues...

but your special john