Eug

johnny are you doing a stud conversion? i've been thinking about a brake upgrade too - and have been suggested gtst items like paul's done to his 31 (but apparently its a bitch to fit and needs some extensive modification to make them fit) show me when your done - or when your doing it...

i believe the difference is only in the 4wd (altessa system?) as brett said above sump needs to be modified if u take one from the stagea. i am not sure about the s1 stagea, but teh s2 has a neo6. a simpler way cud be to source an rb25det neo6 from an r34 rather a stagea.

i have read somewhere that the neo6 has a few extra goodies like stronger internals??? (dont quote me on that) which means you can probably run more boost) it makes more power stock like 200ish kw? and has a far greater potential than the standard RB25DET

do jetspeed make the stealth wings themselves from their own mould? or do they purchase it from another distributer... reason being that I recently purchased one from carmate.com and it will need slight sanding and bog to fill in some impurities from the mould - i dont know if they made it themselves but if there is only one mould of the wings then most of them will have the impurities. not trying to scare anyone away - just making sure you guys do the homework before you buy - cos i sure as hell didnt (call them and make sure everything is perfect)

I was just talking to a friend this afternoon about doing such a conversion in the future... pending on circumstances. the gearbox will need to be changed, wiring, loom, ecu, basically everything that made the RB25DET run in the 34 will need to be brought over to the 33

i bought the car for a number of reasons; i am the first owner in australia, the engine is very very healthy, the car was bought completely stock, the body is in good condition, and i simply cannot afford the insurance required to pay at my age. and simply - i really have no need for a turbo car... well if i do decide to perform an engine conversion it will definately not be soon - during that time i may not even have the car anymore. btw - i have found the RB25DE to be pretty reliable - just check all the problems in the forced induction thread and the ones in the natural aspiration :D:D increasing boost, etc etc etc

and have bat ears..... hmm... i'll stick with the s1 rounder

what bootlid spoiler?? :confused: car is 100% bog stock my car cost me the price of a gtst - and i chose the na. chrome rims.... hhmm... its a tough one some people can pull it off some cant just have to see what it looks like when it goes on the car

like i said bring the bodykit back to stock or change it. this has been a long time coming john you know it and everyone else knows it... ***en oath!!!!!

me.... this is hot... are these the HP sabre?

*ahem* you are so full of shit you can dooo it!!! u dont have to prove to anyone anything - if u like the 33 than do the 33, if you like the 32 do the 32 - that said always do the 34 regardless of anything 32s have the proper touring look, and 33s have the proper street look... though i think the s1 33 stock wing looks uber gay. and the car needs a bit of skirts, bar, and pods to get rid of the roundish shape

if you really like your car and want to turbo it then yes, i'd say you'd want to upgrade the brakes too... that said - you would have less headaches and more money if you bought a gtst already with better brakes, turbo, and 5 studs. in the end its up to how much money you have and how willing you are to put up with the complications that are usually involved with such a plan.

robocop: i'm pretty sure her car is a non-turbo 33 hence 4 stud dirk is right the whole hub must be changed there are a few options you can use each with its pros and cons: 1 - you can change the whole lot, do a stud conversion - hubs, rotors + calipers (good upgrade) and get 33 gtst items put in (this isnt a cheap option and a fair bit of modification needs to be done) 2 - buy an adapter plate kinda thing - basically it bolts onto the 4 stud on one side and has the 5 stud pattern on the other (this changes the geometry of the car and means your rims arent directly bolted to the original studs - i cant see this being a good option if you plan to do some track work or drive spiritedly) 3 - or just search for 4x114.3 stud/multistud rims for your car (just keep looking there are bound to be another set of rims that look the similar if not better than the ones you want to put on - this is what i did - takes a while to search for the right ones but saves you alot of headaches and a bit of money. my rims are a 4x114.3 or 5x100 multistud - took me ages to find but you wont do ur head in over anything. maybe post a photo of the rims that you would like to put on... and see if anyone has seen knows anything similar.

ahhh thanks fellas - i totally forgot about the cigarette lighter LIGHT.... cos all i thought was cigarette lighter.... sweeet.

i need 12v to turn on gauges in the cabin when i flick on the headlights/highbeam. i've done a search and heard that i can tap into the fuse - but apparantly the fuse is in the back for the 33s i dont exactly want to run wires all teh way to the back and then back to the front. i can do the cigarette lighter too - but then they'd be on all the time, a switch is possible... but was thinking of tapping it into the loom - but not sure which wires to splice into. any help wud be much appreciated, and pictures wud be great Cheers. Eugene

pictures of this bonnet cut would be good. i am with arron on this one about the water... i do not think many owners would be keen to hack up their bonnet just for an extra few kw.

Yokohama's produces the bestest tyres.... ever!! Alot of people swear by the ES100s, I am going into get the c.drives at Bob Jane Taringa on sunday the owner Milton is a pretty good bloke... SAU members get discounts at all Bob Jane QLD.

BAUHAHAHAHAHAHA

Dude its a skyline forum - don't come here to stir crap. You have your own opinions and we have ours. As many have said, you are comparing a newer car with a car over 10 years old. You have far more displacement and others have forced induction. Don't get me wrong V8s are pretty cool, they sound the goods and as you have stated you have power right through the rev range - but I like the Japanese cars for their precise tuning. They don't need massive amounts of cubes just to get power - all the power comes from years and years of refinement and experimenting to build one of the most efficient engines in the history of cars. Now you're coming on here acting like you know it all - if you knew it all you would see that both cars are unique and different in their own right. Now on to more serious matters - who needs cubes? you compensating?

the RB26DETT has a far higher tuning and modification potential than the RB25DET... that said - doing an rb26 conversion will get you only RWD...unless u have a GTS4 R33 and do some extensive custom stuff.

9.8 metres/second squared will be the fastest you'll ever get.... :D:D:D

a bucket load of money... rather buy an R33 GTS4

Personally I find that the stock airbox is fairly restrictive...

Actually this was done last year by a good friend with very very good results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35764 It ended up costing less than an RB25DET conversion, but I guess going the RB route is a little more practical.

Is the RB25DE and the RB25DE NEO-Spec a straight swap conversion? I am aware that the Neo has a few extras such as stronger internals? and bits here and there... but things such as wiring? ecu? compression? could you just swap the engine and retain the old stuff.